Cthulhu RTA V2 (similar posts to the velocity rda)

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52anddone

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You should be able to pull you're cotton wick back and forth thru you're coil and NOT disturb the coil at all (not pushing or bending the coil out of shape in the least), also, if you're cotton wick ends are stuffed down behind the wick ring too tightly (too thick of wick tails), and/or too far down the wick channel (cut tails to be just even with the bottom of the wick ring) then you will get Dry Hits. With KGD and a 2.5mm ID coil I will use a strip of cotton about 4-5mm in width (measured), on a 3mm coil I will use a strip about 5-7mm in width, on a 2mm coil I will use a strip about 3-4mm in width. Always cut KGD, Puffs, Muji pads WITH the grain, never against the grain.

KGD = Ko Gen Do Organic Japanese Cotton Pads, they are facial cleaning pads of very soft (yet strong) texture used for make-up removal, and very inexpensive to buy over on Amazon.Com. Same thing for Puffs, and Muji Pads.

Rayon wicking is different, put enough Rayon in the coil so that when you pull the Rayon back and forth in the coil you will hear the Rayon squeak. Then trim the tails thin (by 50% to start with), then trim more as necessary to get it to wick like you want it to (trim too much and you will start to leak and flood out of the air slots if you're V2 is on it's side). That's all I know about Rayon in a rta.

Rayon can be bought at Sally's Beauty Supply, I got a 500 foot coil for about $13 that will last me a life time. Any other questions about Rayon you might have I suggest you ask @thayamax here on this thread as she actually uses it on her Cthulhu V2 daily, or go to Rayon Wick - Better Flow, Flavor, Longevity, and Nic Hit!! - Pt.2

If I have made any Errors in this post, maybe a Pro can step in to correct any wrong information given here as it's been a while for me with Rayon in an RTA, Cotton (KGD) I work with in my V2 Weekly/Semi Weekly as I don't use any Coil Gunker Juices so I don't need to re-wick but about every 2 weeks (unless I change to a different coil type) and don't need to re-coil but every month to 6 months on Twisted Kanthal wire coils (I will usually switch to a different diameter coil).
 
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Rekon

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Dec 21, 2015
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Ok, so now I did rewick it again, but used scottish model. I wont give up on the single coil just yet :) But I did a scottish Lite version, had about 1 cm cut piece, gently pulled apart to a thin layer, tore apart the end of each side then rolled it up gently, not pressing it but just so it looked like a fluffy roll. It was tight but didn't pull the coil, trimmed it diagonally on the upper ends and trimmed the rest so the tails was just were the ring end would be(I have removed the wick ring and the control ring) juiced it up so it would expand before i snugged it in the channels gently pressed it in and if it was to much i left it a bit on the sides on the deck. Now no dry hits on long draws with 30w and no leakage :) and I see air bubbles coming up and that is a good sign :)
 

52anddone

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It sounds like you're getting there. Good for you. :thumbs: Now keep working on the wicking and as you get better you can slowly re-introduce BACK all the missing tank parts that you took Off to get it going. Then you will know that you're wicking is Good To Go, and that you're doing everything right. :thumb:
 
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Rekon

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Dec 21, 2015
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I think I'm keeping them off :) they are optional and not really needed. the juiceflow thing i find really bad, and so tight I can barely twist it. and the wick-ring is just there for wick hints. As I got it working fine without them, I'll just leave em out ;) Next project is the dual deck, but wanted a slight spaced 24g ss wire in there on 0.25-0.30ohm which is about 10-11 wraps, but it looks like it will not fit :( maybe as contact though, or resort to 26g with lesser wraps to use spaced. Im bit torn about contact or spaced, but seen good stuff about spaced, but see that not many use that even though it says it is more flavor.
 
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Rekon

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Dec 21, 2015
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So I made the dual deck 2 days ago, First time building duals, So I made 24g 12 wraps SS 316L wire, at first I thought man this is tight, as the the deck wouldn't catch threading thinking the coils touched the threads inside the chimney but realized that I missed to screw in all post screws ( was testing with one coil just to see) Pre-burned them just to see that they glowed equally, then this awful smell came, like burned oil and the deck still smoked several seconds after i dropped the button.

And i just gave ....s about it, so I mounted it wicked it etc, all good, but DAMN it tasted awful, like I've wicked it with machine oil, Quickly mounted the crown tank back just to see if the juice really tasted like that, but noo :)
so I ripped it apart again, rinsed it plenty, made 2 new 26awg at 0.26ohm coils instead, since it also looked like i destroyed the other coils by overheating them in the pre-burn thinking that may also be the issue and not the cleaning of the deck which i did not do before, SS wire looking black and not rainbow-ish.

so 2 new coils, smaller just to be certain they weren't touching anything, man, this is night and day :) 2 days now, and nothing but flavor and good wicking :), what a difference also from the single deck in vape and flavor.

I thought wicking would be my issue, but i watched so many videos so only the first time i did it it leaked a LITTLE, but every wicking since it have never leaked ever, never closing the airholes either, its toooyt like tooyger :)

So my experience as first RBA/RTA is good actually, could have been worse :) as I've seen so many senior builders complaining about leakage in tanks I was afraid.

And now i have blood tooth, so gonna buy some more tanks, Looking at the Griffin for the big build deck, since SS wire is kinda wrap hungry :) Have a good night Fellas ;)
 
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SmoKnoMoCigZ

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i wanted to get a second cthulhu v2 and found authentic black version on fastech for $28 shipped with coupon code map.i ordered last night 01/24 around 10 pm and got shipping notice by 9 this morning. never had fastech get an order ready this fast. everybody must have moved on to the next best thing cause this thread has been kinda dead. if i like a tank i gotta have at least two. :banana:
 

rhm3769

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Aug 15, 2013
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Been running my first run v2 with the dual coil deck along with an rda the last few weeks.... Twisted 30g kanthal and reverse twisted with a single strand of 28g kanthal, came out to 0.3 ohms.... I haven't had any wicking problems, trimming and then tucking under the wick ring.... My juice ring is only tight if I over tighten the tank to the deck.... I tend to keep it on my mech instead of my subox.... It's harsh and I get dry/burnt juice hits when chain vaping on the subox but it's perfect on the mech....

The flavor is on par with my rda....
 
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DoubleEwe

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Been running my first run v2 with the dual coil deck along with an rda the last few weeks.... Twisted 30g kanthal and reverse twisted with a single strand of 28g kanthal, came out to 0.3 ohms.... I haven't had any wicking problems, trimming and then tucking under the wick ring.... My juice ring is only tight if I over tighten the tank to the deck.... I tend to keep it on my mech instead of my subox.... It's harsh and I get dry/burnt juice hits when chain vaping on the subox but it's perfect on the mech....

The flavor is on par with my rda....

Good stuff!

The subox dry hit issue will just be down to too high wattage, that is if you are setting it at 4.2V (whatever the wattage is at that voltage), as obviously with the mech you get voltage drop, which you don't have on the regulated mod. So, you could just try at 3.6-4.0V (equivalent wattage value for that voltage range) to see if that helps and makes the vapes comparable.
 

rhm3769

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Good stuff!

The subox dry hit issue will just be down to too high wattage, that is if you are setting it at 4.2V (whatever the wattage is at that voltage), as obviously with the mech you get voltage drop, which you don't have on the regulated mod. So, you could just try at 3.6-4.0V (equivalent wattage value for that voltage range) to see if that helps and makes the vapes comparable.
The weird thing, and its probably a voltage thing, my build gets more watts, if I'm doing the math right, on my mech than the kbox can do.... But I get dry hits on the kbox but not on the mech.... And when I'm not getting the dry hits, its harsh on the kbox.... But my rda, its fine on the kbox....

Delayed edit on the previous post, its the kbox mini, not the subox....

No complaints, just thought it was weird....
 
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52anddone

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The weird thing, and its probably a voltage thing, my build gets more watts, if I'm doing the math right, on my mech than the kbox can do.... But I get dry hits on the kbox but not on the mech.... And when I'm not getting the dry hits, its harsh on the kbox.... But my rda, its fine on the kbox....

Delayed edit on the previous post, its the kbox mini, not the subox....

No complaints, just thought it was weird....

I just woke up and read you're post twice, still doesn't make sense to me that that is happening to you. Is that Kbox working OK with you're other Tanks or Atty's ?
 

rhm3769

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I just woke up and read you're post twice, still doesn't make sense to me that that is happening to you. Is that Kbox working OK with you're other Tanks or Atty's ?
Yeah, as far as I can tell, it is.... My last build, I had to run my v2 on the kbox for the ramp-up.... The current build is at 0.3 ohms, math says I'd run more than 50 watts on a full charge on my mech.... The kbox mini maxes at 50 watts, though....
It's fine, I usually run an rda on the kbox, though....
 
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stormjib

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Sep 19, 2014
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I still use my cthulhu v2s a lot. i recently got both the aromamizer and mutation mt tank, and they're good too but the cthulhu just works best for me. i have staggered fused claptons around .23 ohms, usually vape at 82 watts or so, i like it a lot on my parallel mech but it basically lives on my ipv3. i have found that with higher vg i have modified my wicking a little, now i trim my cotton to a v and put less behind the wicking ring. it's still the best tank i own, can hardly wait for them to release their hastur 'rdta', i've seen teasers of it.
 
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rhm3769

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Does anyone have problems of spotting or seeping juice from the knurled juice ring area? It happens with or without the inner juice control ring.
Only when I take the tank off to look at the coils.... I found it does it less or not at all if I let it sit upside down longer before taking it apart, letting it sit longer after taking it apart or drying the inside of the chimney and the surface with the three slits in it....
 
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