Darwin...Is it really different?

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Scottbee

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jimho

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Agree with you that there is a difference but it's really only which of the variables in Ohm's law are fixed and which ones are effectively set when you alter each device's settings.

The hot/cold load on any atty will vary on either device. Since you specify Voltage on the Provari and it is held constant by the device, wattage will vary slightly as the load changes.

Since you specify wattage on the Darwin then the voltage would vary as the load changes.

I like the idea of being able to specify a static wattage and having the device monitor the load and adjust the voltage to maintain the desired wattage. It's an idea that's been tossed around for some time here and can't wait to see the first good implementation of it in a mod.

I'd be surprised if we don't see it in the next gen of the ProVari as well.... would only take a new eprom and a couple of components.

I am not real crazy about the "side-winder" atty attachment of the Darwin either but I think if the whole package were cleaned up a bit i could get used to the flat form profile... but Ouch! the price point!

Here we go again...
How does the load change? By how much do you think it changes and how fast?
 

REGGAEGEEK

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Your point, "Since you specify wattage on the Darwin then the voltage would vary as the load changes", is true but maintaining a consistent voltage is different from maintaining consistent power.

If there is an "early adopter" discount or something like that, I'd certainly like to do a side-by-side comparison of Darwin and the ProVari.

since P=V^2/R , i am not sure what part of the equation the Darwin is modifying to deliver consistant "power" if it's not the Voltage, since the R would be determined by the Ohm of the atty? Am i missing something?
 

IndustrialAction

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since P=V^2/R , i am not sure what part of the equation the Darwin is modifying to deliver consistant "power" if it's not the Voltage, since the R would be determined by the Ohm of the atty? Am i missing something?

Sorry, it is confusing.

My point is that according to what we've read about Darwin, wattage is the real "sweet-spot" for your juice. Supposedly if you find your SS in the W for your juice, then you're golden. When you vary voltage, you have to dial-it-in for the resistance of the atty/carto. The claim with Darwin is that you set your W and get the same vape regardless of the resistance of said att/carto. That means that if your sweet spot is 8W, it is always 8W. On a VV device, your SS might be 3.7V for one atty/carto but 4.4V for another. Yes, Darwin will be adjusting the voltage to keep the wattage consistent but that's not the same as delivering constant voltage because of the play in thermal resistance (however negligible it may be) and unaccounted for difference in resistance from one atty/carto to the next.

LOL, even when I read that I have a hard time keeping it straight.

In the equation for a VV device, P changes with resistance, V is constant and R changes (however little that may be). When you swap out a different resistance, P changes again and from what I've read about Darwin, that is what has the negative effect on your vaping experience. The values of P and R change while using the product (supposedly) while V is the only part that remains consistent.

In Darwin, P is constant, V is varied but done so by the device to keep P constant while accounting for changes in R again to ensure that the equation remains balanced. Smart device versus not so smart device (I'm not going to call it dumb since it is a kick ... mod that I have an order in for and can't wait to get!).
 
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REGGAEGEEK

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Sorry, it is confusing.

My point is that according to what we've read about Darwin, wattage is the real "sweet-spot" for your juice. Supposedly if you find your SS in the W for your juice, then you're golden. When you vary voltage, you have to dial-it-in for the resistance of the atty/carto. The claim with Darwin is that you set your W and get the same vape regardless of the resistance of said att/carto. That means that if your sweet spot is 8W, it is always 8W. On a VV device, your SS might be 3.7V for one atty/carto but 4.4V for another. Yes, Darwin will be adjusting the voltage to keep the wattage consistent but that's not the same as delivering constant voltage because of the play in thermal resistance (however negligible it may be) and unaccounted for difference in resistance from one atty/carto to the next.

LOL, even when I read that I have a hard time keeping it straight.

In the equation for a VV device, P changes with resistance, V is constant and R changes (however little that may be). When you swap out a different resistance, P changes again and from what I've read about Darwin, that is what has the negative effect on your vaping experience. The values of P and R change while using the product (supposedly) while V is the only part that remains consistent.

In Darwin, P is constant, V is varied but done so by the device to keep P constant while accounting for changes in R again to ensure that the equation remains balanced. Smart device versus not so smart device (I'm not going to call it dumb since it is a kick ... mod that I have an order in for and can't wait to get!).

LOL...Makes sense, it's what i was thinking....i agree that setting a profile with desired wattage and having the device monitor the variables and adjust to maintain that output is the best ultimate way to go. Right now i'm waiting for a ProVari myself since it's the most flexible VV production mod i have seen so far but I'm always open to another one!!
 

Uma

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whew that was a long read. Love the camo duct tape! Any word yet on if they'll be making a Camo version? I like the swing arm, and the pencil case style for the desk (easy to find if set down). I also like the possibility of using any atty at any time and letting the battery do all the wizarding for me. I do have a question... What happens when the pv tries to make a sad atty work at 5v but the sad atty just doesn't have the life to give? Does the pv rev up and sputter? I can't quite picture it. I can imagine all kinds of movie scenes where the mad scientist grabs the breaker bar and lifts up for more power until the whole place explodes because the atty just couldn't handle it...
The price is too steep for me at this time, but I'm going to be stalking it like many others. Too bad Clyde, MX, and a few of the other reviewers don't have one in their hands. I'd really like more input on this. Hopefully the seller will be slinging some more of these out there soon for review.
 

jimho

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LOL, don't think a load changes in a thermal circuit, know it does. How much? How fast? too hard to tell without measuring it.


LOL at you....
Of course it varies. It's not too hard to tell without measuring. Look it up and do the math. The temperature coefficient of Nicrome 60 is .00014. You'll also need to look up the temperature of 36ga nichrome wire ... you come out with less than .1 ohm on 36g, a nichrome wire.

Then think about what's actually hapening. It doesn't matter that the resistance changes a bit as you heat up the atty,or cools as you draw as long as it reaches a steady state. All you care about is that it gets close to that steady state quickly. IF you have a good source maintaining constant voltage it doesn't matter...

I'm sure that you'll get a consistent vape from this device but I'm not buying the argument that it's in any real way better than a well regulated VV device -

I like the quote in your sig... why don't you put it to some use and do some research on nichrome-60.
 

IndustrialAction

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LOL at you....
Of course it varies. It's not too hard to tell without measuring. Look it up and do the math. The temperature coefficient of Nicrome 60 is .00014. You'll also need to look up the temperature of 36ga nichrome wire ... you come out with less than .1 ohm on 36g, a nichrome wire.

Then think about what's actually hapening. It doesn't matter that the resistance changes a bit as you heat up the atty,or cools as you draw as long as it reaches a steady state. All you care about is that it gets close to that steady state quickly. IF you have a good source maintaining constant voltage it doesn't matter...

I'm sure that you'll get a consistent vape from this device but I'm not buying the argument that it's in any real way better than a well regulated VV device -

I like the quote in your sig... why don't you put it to some use and do some research on nichrome-60.

Jimho -

I'm not going to argue the changes but I do think there is a difference between what Darwin claims to do and what a regulated/boosted VV device like the ProVari does. If we buy into the "statement" that the sweet-spot for each juice lies in your power (wattage) then a device that self regulates to automatically deliver the same wattage regardless of the resistance of the atty/carto attached could be seen as being "better" than a device that varies voltage. Now, using the formulas or an Ohm's Law calculator, you can compensate for this but a device that does it for you can been seen as having an advantage (which each person can decide for themselves how important that really is). The addition of constant self-regulation to maintain consistent wattage is something that I have not seen in other devices.
 

AngusATAT

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LOL at you....
Of course it varies. It's not too hard to tell without measuring. Look it up and do the math. The temperature coefficient of Nicrome 60 is .00014. You'll also need to look up the temperature of 36ga nichrome wire ... you come out with less than .1 ohm on 36g, a nichrome wire.

So it's your assertion that every manufacturer out there uses 36ga Nichrome 60 wire for their all of their atties and cartos?

I'll let Brandon explain the tests they ran when he starts posting, because I bet you would be surprised. Especially when some atties out there showed a change in resistance of around 20% at 350 degrees. (For reference, 6v vaping can get up over 400 degrees)

Yes, the difference is very noticeable, especially if you are like me and stocked up on a bunch of the really cheap 510 atties a while back. Those of you who use the Boge 510 cartomizers won't see much of a change on them, however.
 

jimho

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So it's your assertion that every manufacturer out there uses 36ga Nichrome 60 wire for their all of their atties and cartos?

I'll let Brandon explain the tests they ran when he starts posting, because I bet you would be surprised. Especially when some atties out there showed a change in resistance of around 20% at 350 degrees. (For reference, 6v vaping can get up over 400 degrees)

Yes, the difference is very noticeable, especially if you are like me and stocked up on a bunch of the really cheap 510 atties a while back. Those of you who use the Boge 510 cartomizers won't see much of a change on them, however.


I didn't say it doesn't vary- I said it doesn't matter that it does ....

The point I'm making is that the change in resistance from room temperature to operating temperature isn't that important.... all it means is that the resistance at working temperature is different than when its cold. Variable power won't solve that problem because the wire still needs to heat up and that takes time. Show me proof that there is 20% change in resistance after the atty reaches working temp - not between room temperature and working temp, and prove to me that it's due to the nichrome heating up and there will be something to investigate....

Think about what's happening here... you apply power and it takes some time t for the coil to heat up - there's a definite relationship between current and temperature for a length of nichrome and a relationship between temperature and resistance ...
If you start with a 1.5 atty, as the resistance increases as the wire heats up your 1.5 atty goes up when its hot (depending on the temp).. and current drops as a result. i'm not arguing that and I think we all are agreeing on that. It's just that the net effect is your atty runs cooler than your calculated power at room tempereature, not less consistent.

Once you are powered up and it reaches operating temperature I expect it to be fairly stable till you run it dry ... either way, 20% swing would be attributed to something else- perhaps there's thinner alloy wire leads in those cheap attys that can't handle the current? That's something that wouldn't show up on an ohm meter but might be a factor at 2.5 amps....

WRT nichrome wire- There's quite a bit posted in the atty mod forum - from what I recall, 36 ga is common- although not all attys use 36-i'm pretty sure that's what was found in Joye's... I believe Cisco uses 34 (or 32?) and you might find some cheapies with 38 ga (wonder why they pop so easily)... the temperature coefficient doesn't change with gage it's a property of the material.

And yes it would be nice for Brandon to fix his web site and fix his status so he can actually post, discuss and defend the results and his claims. I'd also like to know how he managed to set up a consistent test to make sure his results were reliable....He's been promising that for a good 6 weeks now.
 

REGGAEGEEK

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LOL at you....
Of course it varies. It's not too hard to tell without measuring. Look it up and do the math. The temperature coefficient of Nicrome 60 is .00014. You'll also need to look up the temperature of 36ga nichrome wire ... you come out with less than .1 ohm on 36g, a nichrome wire.

Then think about what's actually hapening. It doesn't matter that the resistance changes a bit as you heat up the atty,or cools as you draw as long as it reaches a steady state. All you care about is that it gets close to that steady state quickly. IF you have a good source maintaining constant voltage it doesn't matter...

I'm sure that you'll get a consistent vape from this device but I'm not buying the argument that it's in any real way better than a well regulated VV device -

I like the quote in your sig... why don't you put it to some use and do some research on nichrome-60.

I like it too...
Actually you pretty much restated my point. Yes, of course it changes but my question was exactly what does the Darwin do differently that a VV device that causes that to be of concern. And TBQH i've looked at too many various compositions of nichrome wire to even care to be that accurate anymore. There was one point when making a bunch of homebuilt attys that I thought crappy nichrome may be the reason so many died so quickly, so i tried more configurations than i ever want to repeat. The point was that each circuit world be different with each unique atty as the composition and design of the coil changes, and yes there is variation but how did the Darwin contribute more than simply varying the voltage.
 
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