i swore to never touch ptb or blue foam ever again, your killing me banjo, your killing me.
E2 Cartomizer Technical Discussion
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Br, if you extend the tube another 3/4" and tap some threads on it, then
cut the carto about 5mm below the bottom of the cup, and tap some threads on it, you would
have the one I was thinking of earlier.
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Here is another thought:
Once the wick leaves the cup, what if you really don't need a wick? I mean at least not a stringy wick, what you could have is a hollow, tube-like wick that would essentially line the carto wall.
The current coil wick (now just a 1" wick) would get the liquid off of this tubed wick, and the tubed wick could be built into a plastic cartridge frame that could be easily replaced.
Since the carto top now ends just below the cup, even the cup could be replaced if they also sold the repair parts such as in quantities of 25 or 50.
Even the coil wick could be easily replaced, since it's only a 1" wick if the tubed wick frame cartridge replaces the wick loops inside the carto.
I'm not saying this could be the next version, because we still want some current version in the meantime, but what if this works and allows people to simply replace the gunked parts eventually?
Even then, they could easily carry both versions:
Version A =some kind of the current version, that people can throw away at the end of the day, and
Version B =the one where the hood comes off, and can be made to last for months.
cut the carto about 5mm below the bottom of the cup, and tap some threads on it, you would
have the one I was thinking of earlier.
_____________
Here is another thought:
Once the wick leaves the cup, what if you really don't need a wick? I mean at least not a stringy wick, what you could have is a hollow, tube-like wick that would essentially line the carto wall.
The current coil wick (now just a 1" wick) would get the liquid off of this tubed wick, and the tubed wick could be built into a plastic cartridge frame that could be easily replaced.
Since the carto top now ends just below the cup, even the cup could be replaced if they also sold the repair parts such as in quantities of 25 or 50.
Even the coil wick could be easily replaced, since it's only a 1" wick if the tubed wick frame cartridge replaces the wick loops inside the carto.
I'm not saying this could be the next version, because we still want some current version in the meantime, but what if this works and allows people to simply replace the gunked parts eventually?
Even then, they could easily carry both versions:
Version A =some kind of the current version, that people can throw away at the end of the day, and
Version B =the one where the hood comes off, and can be made to last for months.
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here is a design i think similar to that . it would be simial to that other atomizer design we saw weeks back that some company actually sells, it looks similar to the e2 with a cup but it has filler surrounding the cup.
this design here could have the cup like it is now but with that rounded tubed wick acting as the inner cup and connected to thw wick that the coil goes on.
The wick does not need to be like in the pic, thin and tube like, if it could be made into like a sleeve to fit around the cup like in the drawing but thicker so its covers most of the cup??
this design here could have the cup like it is now but with that rounded tubed wick acting as the inner cup and connected to thw wick that the coil goes on.
The wick does not need to be like in the pic, thin and tube like, if it could be made into like a sleeve to fit around the cup like in the drawing but thicker so its covers most of the cup??
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It's really a good thing for both a manufacturer and the vapers. It seems that people go to great lengths and wasting batteries trying to do long dry burns to clean the gunk off. With the carto that is made in two parts (version b above),
you can still dry burn it, because you're just dry burning the actual 1" of wick in the cup, the inner wick in the carto itself is actually a tube-like cartridge that can be replaced itself if and when necessary.
The point is that both makers and vapers do ot want the gunk, and this is could be a step forward with it. I remember a post about not thinking of so many solutions, but imo progress needs to continue fast, and it will, either way. The fda regulating the U.S is almost in all the major news floating around all ready. Due to the fear the fda causes, people are stocking up on unflavored 100 nic juice, I see it in may posts.
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Bad, yes, that would work, people would just need to hold their ecic like a real cigarette every now and then.
The tube design extends all the way down, in the cartridge-sleeve, but for a temproary diy solution a few rings around the cup like that should work just fine, and it would cover the slots at the same time!
With the version b tube design, it really doesn't need to be as long as the entire carto either, then! Maybe just an inch long?
you can still dry burn it, because you're just dry burning the actual 1" of wick in the cup, the inner wick in the carto itself is actually a tube-like cartridge that can be replaced itself if and when necessary.
The point is that both makers and vapers do ot want the gunk, and this is could be a step forward with it. I remember a post about not thinking of so many solutions, but imo progress needs to continue fast, and it will, either way. The fda regulating the U.S is almost in all the major news floating around all ready. Due to the fear the fda causes, people are stocking up on unflavored 100 nic juice, I see it in may posts.
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Bad, yes, that would work, people would just need to hold their ecic like a real cigarette every now and then.
The tube design extends all the way down, in the cartridge-sleeve, but for a temproary diy solution a few rings around the cup like that should work just fine, and it would cover the slots at the same time!
With the version b tube design, it really doesn't need to be as long as the entire carto either, then! Maybe just an inch long?
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Someone with an old filler carto can try this already:
First, pull the entire wick out of the carto, I mean the wick inside the carto, don't disturb the part that's in the cup.
Then, cut all of it off, but leave about a 1" length sticking out of each slot.
Then, put the filler material around the cup, but not too much compression. You don't want to squeeze the coil wick too much.
Now you should be able to vape and hold the cigerette like anormal cigarette. The amount of filler material needs to be determined, so that it wicks at a good rate.
First, pull the entire wick out of the carto, I mean the wick inside the carto, don't disturb the part that's in the cup.
Then, cut all of it off, but leave about a 1" length sticking out of each slot.
Then, put the filler material around the cup, but not too much compression. You don't want to squeeze the coil wick too much.
Now you should be able to vape and hold the cigerette like anormal cigarette. The amount of filler material needs to be determined, so that it wicks at a good rate.
but then will it draw to much juice into the coil area and flood it like it does now.
everytime i get a leaky e2, I get this over whelming feeling to fly to china just so i could drop kick the engineer right in the neck.
there is a picture of exactly that vjohn, its so hard ot find right now but we all saw it, some company sells them, it comes with 2 batteries and one of these wierd atomizers that look almost like a e2 but not exactly.
that atomizer uses the proper wick like we are saying and it sits in holes in the cup but then cuts off right there, then the cup is surrounded by filler which delivers the juice to the wick at the holes of the cup where the wick begins.
but is making a filler ring defeating the purpose, unless it is made of something else , god knows., then it could basicly surround the whole cup like a thick ring.
cause getting them to make a wick in that shape aint gonna happen.
im gonna try this since banjo and you got this idea . im gonna cut off the wick but leave just enough so its visible outside the cup. then im gonna make some ptb into a sleave and wrap it around the whole cup and see how that goes. ill also use the triple pt fold methhod so its thicker at the top
everytime i get a leaky e2, I get this over whelming feeling to fly to china just so i could drop kick the engineer right in the neck.
there is a picture of exactly that vjohn, its so hard ot find right now but we all saw it, some company sells them, it comes with 2 batteries and one of these wierd atomizers that look almost like a e2 but not exactly.
that atomizer uses the proper wick like we are saying and it sits in holes in the cup but then cuts off right there, then the cup is surrounded by filler which delivers the juice to the wick at the holes of the cup where the wick begins.
but is making a filler ring defeating the purpose, unless it is made of something else , god knows., then it could basicly surround the whole cup like a thick ring.
cause getting them to make a wick in that shape aint gonna happen.
im gonna try this since banjo and you got this idea . im gonna cut off the wick but leave just enough so its visible outside the cup. then im gonna make some ptb into a sleave and wrap it around the whole cup and see how that goes. ill also use the triple pt fold methhod so its thicker at the top
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I don't see a need to do this. The ones we have now are cheap and semi disposable. A good number of people are learning to restore the coil with a dry burn, and when a cartridge fails, it's past time to throw it away. I'd rather do that than mess around with an overhaul, regardless of the cost. However, if I designed one for overhauling, it would simply be a full length tube that would screw off of the base.
As far as the wick goes, the older filler type cartomizers with a horizontal coil work somewhat like you suggest. They have a woven tube with a dual purpose. It is an air supply and also a primary wick that supplies a short conventional wick. Sometimes these cartomizers wicked well enough, but sometimes they did not and burned the filler. Some of our E2's are doing about the same thing, except there is nothing to burn but the juice.
One thing to consider with any Possible design change is that there are More than one goal that must be achieved.
1) Stop the Leaking.
2) Do not impede wicking. Possibly improve it.
3) Must be able to Refill easily.
4) Must be able to wash and dry easily.
5) Should make least amount of impact on current design to minimize manufacturing costs.
Im sure that members can find more criterias but these are the basic goals as I see it.
If a design is found that achieves goal number 1 but violates another goal than it is not a good design in its current form.
1) Stop the Leaking.
2) Do not impede wicking. Possibly improve it.
3) Must be able to Refill easily.
4) Must be able to wash and dry easily.
5) Should make least amount of impact on current design to minimize manufacturing costs.
Im sure that members can find more criterias but these are the basic goals as I see it.
If a design is found that achieves goal number 1 but violates another goal than it is not a good design in its current form.
the ptb mod works incredibly, thanks banjo. i couldnt make a full circle so i stuffed both sides, so it workes perfectly but this will leak on its side since the whole cup isnt surrounded.
its wicking perfeclty and leaks in airhole at all.
OMG, this is working better then anything ever ever ever, and i cut off the wick completly to the slits of the cup. the taste and vapor is choking me down, holy moly this is godly.
its wicking perfeclty and leaks in airhole at all.
OMG, this is working better then anything ever ever ever, and i cut off the wick completly to the slits of the cup. the taste and vapor is choking me down, holy moly this is godly.
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Heres a vid of the peformance of the ptb banjo mod, give it a few minutes to upload.
thanks banjo, if this works on all of them then you saved 400 e2's that i have from collecting dust. MOST IMPORTANTLY it stopped the leaks completly
thanks banjo, if this works on all of them then you saved 400 e2's that i have from collecting dust. MOST IMPORTANTLY it stopped the leaks completly
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I'm glad to see that the ptb is working for you guys. I have a few questions to ask. How full are you filling it and how much liquid does it hold? Also, does it use up all of the juice in the reservoir?
since i cant loop it all arounbd the sides of the cup there is still room for the needle or plastic tube.
i am filling it all the way up with no leaks into the airflow, not form the bottom of the cup and not from over wicking.
i put in 1.8 and it is using the juice extremly well. i also made sure i had the ptb long enough so i wouldnt have to tilt to the e2 all the way for it to touch the juice and seep it in.
If this holds up all day then this is the ticket, something in this form would turn the e2 into monster.
i am filling it all the way up with no leaks into the airflow, not form the bottom of the cup and not from over wicking.
i put in 1.8 and it is using the juice extremly well. i also made sure i had the ptb long enough so i wouldnt have to tilt to the e2 all the way for it to touch the juice and seep it in.
If this holds up all day then this is the ticket, something in this form would turn the e2 into monster.
Hey glad you like it, and feel free to spread my name to all the babes on the forum.
One important note though: You don't need to cut the wick! Just pack a little folded PTB on the outside of the slots... that's it (mine looks like your picture, only I used smaller pieces and it's a little neater). The existing wick will still feed juice to the PTB and help keep the wick under the coil moist, while stopping the leakage into the cup.
I just cleaned and dry burned my first mod, and it's still working great. I opted to soak the carto in hot water for a few minutes rather than force a stream into it because I was afraid it might move the PTB. I used a syringe so I could measure and got almost 2ml into it on the refill. Works great so far!
It's sounding good so far. And you didn't have to change the slots, heheh. I hope they all work that well.
The stuff that I have been doing is working well enough so far. I opened up more cartridges and added them to the test. For test purposes only, I fill them up until it floods the the cup. Then put the mouthpiece in and blow the juice out of the passage. Then lay them on their side while testing others. I come back to them later on and check for leaks. So far, only one leaks with this test. A bunch. Come to find out, it is a leaker from the get go.
It gets juice in the bottom of the cup while standing upright. Even when the juice is well below the bottom of the cup. The way it is looking right now, the wick begins to run dry soon after it quits being a slurpee. Weird.
Man, I'm glad this is working, but I am still trying to get a handle on it. If the reservoir is fully open except in the area of the slots, why doesn't it leak while laying on its side?Hey glad you like it, and feel free to spread my name to all the babes on the forum.
One important note though: You don't need to cut the wick! Just pack a little folded PTB on the outside of the slots... that's it (mine looks like your picture, only I used smaller pieces and it's a little neater). The existing wick will still feed juice to the PTB and help keep the wick under the coil moist, while stopping the leakage into the cup.
I just cleaned and dry burned my first mod, and it's still working great. I opted to soak the carto in hot water for a few minutes rather than force a stream into it because I was afraid it might move the PTB. I used a syringe so I could measure and got almost 2ml into it on the refill. Works great so far!
I'm still on my 1st one and I just refilled it about the 18th time with no leaking or bad taste. I think one problem people are having with the build up is running them at a low power setting. I run mine right arond 4 volts without any problems.
Golly. My juice tastes bad enough at 3.7 volts, and it is plumb awful with a voltage higher than that.
Guessing is all I can do at this point. I have always been a cartomizer man and never messed with the ptb stuff.
Elementary, my dear Watson. My reservoir isn't open. I push the flat side of the middle ring up against the top of the cup.
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