E2 Cartomizer Technical Discussion
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At this point, the R3's might be better than the R4's. Who knows?
Maybe getting R3's would be a good thing verses False Advertising?
I'd kind of like to get ahold of some of those Old R2's with the plastic cup. They were Easy to Fill. Didn't Leak. Came with Good Battery Threads and I had No Wicking Problems WITHOUT doing a PTB mod.
Progress is a Funny thing sometimes.
Maybe getting R3's would be a good thing verses False Advertising?
I'd kind of like to get ahold of some of those Old R2's with the plastic cup. They were Easy to Fill. Didn't Leak. Came with Good Battery Threads and I had No Wicking Problems WITHOUT doing a PTB mod.
Progress is a Funny thing sometimes.
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I got my order Thursday. I ordered the kr808xl and they sent me the kr808 regular ones.
After trying all the ptb mods I found if you pull the wick strands up cut the loops, And
twist the strands with your fingers in the opposite direction they unravel very easy.
Then poke them back down. Works just as well as ptb mod. They wick better unraveled.
After trying all the ptb mods I found if you pull the wick strands up cut the loops, And
twist the strands with your fingers in the opposite direction they unravel very easy.
Then poke them back down. Works just as well as ptb mod. They wick better unraveled.
Well I thought I was going to re-measure, but I remembered that the voltage stabilized after 1 or 2 seconds, and so I just simply measure the part that I vape, which is right above the air stem, in the center of the gunk zone, and it seems to quickly stabilize at approx. 1.7 to 1.9 volts.
(Nichrome's resistance probably goes up with heat too anyway)
I just haven't been able to take a measurement during the actual vaping yet, and at the time of the measurement, the coil was slightly full and with no orange, so for now I might estimate the ballpark voltage somewhere at 1.7 to 2 volts.
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(edit add: ...and is it the most resistive during the orange status? possibly. That also seems to be the maximum limit, I don't think it gets any hotter than orange, the heat seems to just simply spread out at that point. In fact I don't believe I even vape during condition orange. So it's good with approximately 1.8 volts, regardless of how it's delivered to the air stem point, as long as I see 1.8 volts or so at that point it seems to be fine.)
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ok, so about 24 hrs on my first e2 torture test. still smoking like a train. still tasting good. the only thing i don't like about it is i cant tell when its low on juice. the old cartomizers i could pop off the cap and see the filler getting white, so i knew to add more. these not so much, you can see the wicks starting to get dry, but not as obvious as the old cartos
You might try weighing the cartos.
An empty 510 XL weighs about 6.2 grams. 1ml of juice weighs about 1 gram. If a 510 XL takes 1.8ml of juice, then it should weigh about 8 grams and it does.
If I pick up a carto and it weighs less than 6.6 grams or so, I refill it
If you mean "we" == US shipping address then I would expect you to get the R4s.
Since the voltage drop is proportional to the resistance,
and the resistance is dependent on the length of the nichrome,
that measurement doesn't tell you what you want to know right?
It does, but going from 20C to 300C is going to result in something like a 3% increase in resistance.
You could have guessed without measuring
. But since the voltage, resistance and current through a circuit are proportional and since you sort of guessed you measured across half the resistance you could probably multiply your result by a factor of 2 (roughly sort of).Yes it's going to be most resistive when it's hottest. But from dead cold to "condition orange" you're talking about a change in voltage of about 0.1 volts?
So you have four strands (two on each side) after cutting the wicks, do I have that right?
According to the original post, you are supposed to be measuring the voltage of the battery. You are not measuring the voltage of the battery if you take a reading from the center of the coil. You have been measuring somewhere around half the battery voltage.
The coil does not get anywhere near orange while it is wet. The coil only turns orange when it is dry. That's why we call it a dry burn.
good question, maybe we need to find a good digital VOM-thermometer as well
my thought is that it's not real hot, i mean definitely not orange-hot
does anyone here have a thermo-vom ?
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and about the voltage: I know the post and/or thread was about the battery voltage, but I narrowed down the critical element to only the voltage that I need at the load of essence, under load, and nothing but the mere and relevant load, which is at the air stem. So if I could get 2 volts by whatever technological means applied directly at the center post (during the load is key though), I would still get the same vapor. (I'm not worried about the one and a half coil loops to the left on the left field of the cup, I can do without that loop and a half.)<by the way
edit add: In fact, now that the coil is spread out comfortably from one side of the cup to the other, I think I can do with a loop or two less, and a slightly lower voltage (on the battery)
these ce2 cartos vape great, I can have a k808d1 battery shut down for recharge and the ce2 still putting out reasonable vapor
my thought is that it's not real hot, i mean definitely not orange-hot
does anyone here have a thermo-vom ?
_____
and about the voltage: I know the post and/or thread was about the battery voltage, but I narrowed down the critical element to only the voltage that I need at the load of essence, under load, and nothing but the mere and relevant load, which is at the air stem. So if I could get 2 volts by whatever technological means applied directly at the center post (during the load is key though), I would still get the same vapor. (I'm not worried about the one and a half coil loops to the left on the left field of the cup, I can do without that loop and a half.)<by the way
edit add: In fact, now that the coil is spread out comfortably from one side of the cup to the other, I think I can do with a loop or two less
, and a slightly lower voltage (on the battery)these ce2 cartos vape great, I can have a k808d1 battery shut down for recharge and the ce2 still putting out reasonable vapor
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HEY !!!!! I resemble that!!! Damn kids....... grumble grumble AARRGGGHHHHOh yeah, try vaping with your teeth out... br swears by it.
.
(Fergot to tell ya... I TAUGHT JESUS MATH!!!!!)
Tol that boy not to go messin with dem Je..... uh Hebrews wit no MONEY
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You guys must have forgotten that we covered this earlier in this thread.
_____
and about the voltage: I know the post and/or thread was about the battery voltage, but I narrowed down the critical element to only the voltage that I need at the load of essence, under load, and nothing but the mere and relevant load, which is at the air stem. So if I could get 2 volts by whatever technological means applied directly at the center post (during the load is key though), I would still get the same vapor. (I'm not worried about the one and a half coil loops to the left on the left field of the cup, I can do without that loop and a half.)<by the way
edit add: In fact, now that the coil is spread out comfortably from one side of the cup to the other, I think I can do with a loop or two less
these ce2 cartos vape great, I can have a k808d1 battery shut down for recharge and the ce2 still putting out reasonable vapor
I couldn't even begin to parse this... but I'm looking forward to find out what "the load of essence" is
Ill tease you all with a beta pic of the R4, this is just the guts and NOT the pic of the fix for the slits. that will come tomorow.
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