fc-2000 porous ceramic wick

[eLCruz]

Was it on here I read the idea of taking the pieces of a broken ceramic wick and being able to use it by wrapping SS mesh around it to extend it. I tried it and it's working quite well. I wrapped cotton in the SS mesh, left a little space at the top to put in the piece of ceramic wick I had and I've been using it several days. Whoever made the suggestion, thanks.

Yeah Ricks... that Really works! I broke my last fc2k and had some old 400 mesh laying around and did it... wicked great... but you have to open up the rba and enter from bottom of deck. I did it on an AGI 2in1. The coil was the hard part!

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[mikewill45]

Yeah Ricks... that Really works! I broke my last fc2k and had some old 400 mesh laying around and did it... wicked great... but you have to open up the rba and enter from bottom of deck. I did it on an AGI 2in1. The coil was the hard part!

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I put the wire on the ceramic first. I used a small amount of SS to wrap around the ceramic with cotton wicking in the SS mesh. I was able to get it in from the top...with some effort.

 

[mikewill45]

The hot spots are where your coil isn't really touching the wick. I run mine around 3.5A just fine.

How are you wrapping your coils?

I heat the wire several times red hot using the electric method. I then wrap it what I thought was rather tight around the wick. My wick is the slotted kind.

Are you able to do 3.5 from the start or is that after some break-in? How are you wrapping yours?

 

[vapdivrr]

I heat the wire several times red hot using the electric method. I then wrap it what I thought was rather tight around the wick. My wick is the slotted kind.

Are you able to do 3.5 from the start or is that after some break-in? How are you wrapping yours?

I run between 6 to 7 amps on some of my set-ups. I have 2 gennys set up mechanically with resistances around .6Ω. the issue happens when using the slotted ceramics with a fairly thick gauge wire. I do like the slotted wicks but they do require an extremely tight wrap especially with wires at 28g and thicker. I still have a bunch of non slotted wicks left, so my low resistant set-ups I use these. like I said I have 2 of these .6Ω set ups going right now and both are using 27g wire and both are round wicks, not slotted. the only way I have found to be able to get a really good coil with the slotted is to use 29g and thinner with the electric method, if using thicker then 29g I found that its a must to hot wrap. so what gauge wire are you attempting to wrap using the electric method? whats definitely causing your issues with hotspots is a loose coil because of the slots in the wick, I bet if you were using a round wick it would be tight enough, but coiling these slotted requires a very tight wrap for sure. also I actually heat the wire around 10 to 12 times for 28 to 29g, for 30g wire I heat about 7 times. also you need everything ready to go when your done heating, the wrap needs to be done very soon after.

 

[vapdivrr]

That was Ricks:

gotta give props to dsmooch originally

 

[PEneoark]

I heat the wire several times red hot using the electric method. I then wrap it what I thought was rather tight around the wick. My wick is the slotted kind.

Are you able to do 3.5 from the start or is that after some break-in? How are you wrapping yours?

I can do 3.5A or higher from the start. I hot wrap my coils. While the coil is glowing on your device, you can push down each coil on the right side. That will definitely tighten up the coils even more.

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[mikewill45]

I run between 6 to 7 amps on some of my set-ups. I have 2 gennys set up mechanically with resistances around .6Ω. the issue happens when using the slotted ceramics with a fairly thick gauge wire. I do like the slotted wicks but they do require an extremely tight wrap especially with wires at 28g and thicker. I still have a bunch of non slotted wicks left, so my low resistant set-ups I use these. like I said I have 2 of these .6Ω set ups going right now and both are using 27g wire and both are round wicks, not slotted. the only way I have found to be able to get a really good coil with the slotted is to use 29g and thinner with the electric method, if using thicker then 29g I found that its a must to hot wrap. so what gauge wire are you attempting to wrap using the electric method? whats definitely causing your issues with hotspots is a loose coil because of the slots in the wick, I bet if you were using a round wick it would be tight enough, but coiling these slotted requires a very tight wrap for sure. also I actually heat the wire around 10 to 12 times for 28 to 29g, for 30g wire I heat about 7 times. also you need everything ready to go when your done heating, the wrap needs to be done very soon after.

After hearing the low gauge you are using with success I'm embarrassed to admit I'm using 32g nichrome. I may not be heating the wire enough times and I suspect I'm being overly careful with the ceramic and just not wrapping tight enough. Also may not be wrapping quick enough after heating. I am hoping to be able to get a couple round wicks soon but the places I've checked are out at this time.

Thanks for the guidance. I'll try it next time I change the wire, which may be soon as I'm interested to see if I can get the amps up.

 

[vapdivrr]

After hearing the low gauge you are using with success I'm embarrassed to admit I'm using 32g nichrome. I may not be heating the wire enough times and I suspect I'm being overly careful with the ceramic and just not wrapping tight enough. Also may not be wrapping quick enough after heating. I am hoping to be able to get a couple round wicks soon but the places I've checked are out at this time.

Thanks for the guidance. I'll try it next time I change the wire, which may be soon as I'm interested to see if I can get the amps up.

I don't think they actually make the round wicks any more. with 32g you should be able to get a super tight coil with the electric method. like you said maybe your just being a little to careful thinking that you will snap the wick. after I heat up the wire then disconnect the positive end and slide in the wick I make sure that the wick is not to high. I try to only have it just about 2 mm above the point where my positive post connection is going to be. this will give the wick more stability when wrapping. if the wick is up to high it becomes more fragile. sometimes depending on the atomizer this may require me to snip part of the wick. now with the wick in this position it can take some pretty good side pressure. hold the wire in one hand firmly while spinning the atty and making the wraps, its the spinning of the device that makes the wraps not the hand. as you come to an obstruction, like the pp, you will then need to move your hand around it, before doing this you need to hold slight pressure on the wire with the atty hand so the wire doesn't loosen as you loop around the obstructions. once you are clear you can resume holding pressure on the wire hand and start spinning the atty again. I remember when I first started using the ceramic wicks I took a tooth pick and practiced this method using the tooth pick as a wick, just to feel the tension. after a couple times I could tell the tooth pick was wrapped really tightly. ceramic wicks may not be the easiest wicks to get going but they do have the best flavor for sure.

 

[eLCruz]

ElectroNicStix.com still sells rounds (when in stock).

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[vapdivrr]

ElectroNicStix.com still sells rounds (when in stock).

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thanks buddy that's good to know.

 

[mikewill45]

if using thicker then 29g I found that its a must to hot wrap.

By hot wrap here do you mean that the wire must be hot "as" you wrap rather than just heating several times before wrapping?

 

[PEneoark]

By hot wrap here do you mean that the wire must be hot "as" you wrap rather than just heating several times before wrapping?

Hot wrap is done using a torch

 

[vapdivrr]

hey buddy, this is a standard hot wrap which was used first by elias, so its called elias hot wrap. a must for wire gauges of 28g and thicker. actually I have been successful doing 28g with an electric wrap, but only on a round wick. on a slotted wick 28g has to be hot wrapped imo.

 

[zygote]

hey buddy, this is a standard hot wrap which was used first by elias, so its called elias hot wrap. a must for wire gauges of 28g and thicker. actually I have been successful doing 28g with an electric wrap, but only on a round wick. on a slotted wick 28g has to be hot wrapped imo.

Excellent vid!

 

[vapdivrr]

thanks a lot.

 

[PEneoark]

The most bizarre thing happened last night. I was hotwrapping my 1/8" round wick, and the end of it bent lol

 

[NamVet68]

The most bizarre thing happened last night. I was hotwrapping my 1/8" round wick, and the end of it bent lol

Yep...thy WILL melt if you get them too hot....the ceramic wicks are really just a form of fused glass. Those little micro-torches are much more powerful than most folks realize - the tip of the little blue flame in the "cone" is over 3k Degrees F!

You need to pull the flame back just a little bit from the wick as you are working with it....even if you don't melt the wick, getting it too hot will form micro-cracks in the Alumina matrix that makes the wick much more fragile.

 

[PEneoark]

I was using a small bernzomatic butane torch on the lowest setting lol. I guess I learned my lesson

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[gdeal]

lol... I bent a few as well with the hot wrap. (same torch too.). In addition to Namvet's advice, I found that you can also use another technique so you minimize stressing the ceramic. I do a torch, wire glow and twist, then pull away from the flame letting the material cool, then align for the next torch, wire glow and twist.

Check this out if interested: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQeFdh2JNWI

I was using a small bernzomatic butane torch on the lowest setting lol. I guess I learned my lesson

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[MikeE3]

lol... I bent a few as well with the hot wrap. (same torch too.). In addition to Namvet's advice, I found that you can also use another technique so you minimize stressing the ceramic. I do a torch, wire glow and twist, then pull away from the flame letting the material cool, then align for the next torch, wire glow and twist.

Check this out if interested: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQeFdh2JNWI

Spot on! I've found in/out of the edge of the flame works well.