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imeothanasis

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Feb 13, 2009
47,882
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Athens, Hellas
gg-goldengreek.com
Okay, If I look at the button when I press it, the little bolt does touch the inside of the case when the button is pressed. Is there any way I can fix it here? Can I put something on inside there to avoid them making a connection?

Am I interpreting what you're saying correctly? Now I'm looking at the actual manual button-- I'm not looking at the spring under the atomizer anymore.

The touch you mention is right, because the bolt must touch the case. The problem is not there. You must look to the black insulant material. I am almost sure that this is the problem. Try to pull the button, but not very hard, just a little and try to smoke.

But maybe the best way is to send it to me because if you burn another atomizer you will kill me:D
 

imeothanasis

Unregistered Supplier
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Feb 13, 2009
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update from me
I have the updated GG back now for a while and i'm very pleased with it , it has a nice soft spring now.
Also i have the 801 adapter and i'm pleased with that either, its smokes terrific.

It 's for me the nr 1 in electric smoking.

( I made myself an usb for the old cigarillo's today, and it works lol)
I'm so very handy lol


Sweety, you have all the updates, you will have no problem never.

But in the extreme case you have, Sakis is here for you honey
 

Kendra

Super Member
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Mar 21, 2009
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Nashville
The touch you mention is right, because the bolt must touch the case. The problem is not there. You must look to the black insulant material. I am almost sure that this is the problem. Try to pull the button, but not very hard, just a little and try to smoke.

But maybe the best way is to send it to me because if you burn another atomizer you will kill me:D
lol.

Okay, I think I know what you're talking about but I need some help. Also, I don't want to send it back if you aren't going to find anything. We are only talking about the back cup right now, that lets you see the button move, right? This spring is a spring. This one works. It is covered with black material, so I can't see it, but it does go up and down and doesn't get stuck in any position. . . it' goes down when I press it and goes back up when I let go.

But, it has black material covering it.

Okay. I am trying to lift up the button, but I can't. How do you mean? I can't grab it from the outside and it doesn't push any higher from the inside. So, I'm not sure I'm understanding you here.

:) Can you try to explain it in some other way? Thank you.

The part that has the un-springy spring is the part under the atomizer in the front. That piece doesn't act like a spring even though it looks like one. Plus, it's now all compressed into a tube. No spring action.
 

imeothanasis

Unregistered Supplier
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Feb 13, 2009
47,882
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Athens, Hellas
gg-goldengreek.com
lol.

Okay, I think I know what you're talking about but I need some help. Also, I don't want to send it back if you aren't going to find anything. We are only talking about the back cup right now, that lets you see the button move, right? This spring is a spring. This one works. It is covered with black material, so I can't see it, but it does go up and down and doesn't get stuck in any position. . . it' goes down when I press it and goes back up when I let go.

But, it has black material covering it.

Okay. I am trying to lift up the button, but I can't. How do you mean? I can't grab it from the outside and it doesn't push any higher from the inside. So, I'm not sure I'm understanding you here.

:) Can you try to explain it in some other way? Thank you.

The part that has the un-springy spring is the part under the atomizer in the front. That piece doesn't act like a spring even though it looks like one. Plus, it's now all compressed into a tube. No spring action.

Take a little screwdriver or something else and put it under the button, inside the case. You will put it between the connection point, (button's bottom and inside case) and you will push it upwards. Not hard, we want to raise the button just a little. Then try to smoke. Dont burn any atomizer, please:)

Wait!
 

Kendra

Super Member
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Mar 21, 2009
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Nashville
You told me that the spring to the atomizer side is shrink. Do you think that it touches the batteries? If yes ok. And take a look to the batteries. Do they have a good negative pole? Are they in good situation? I hope that the problem is not caused by them
I'm not sure if they do or not. They are brand new and look brand new, and the batteries seem to be working, it's the atomizers that aren't. Also, I had a couple of sets of batteries and was worried aobut this, too, so I switched them a couple of times.

Also, I have magnets to fill up the space with the 3.7 battery. This morning, I added two little magnets to the batteries, because I didn't think that it was making a connection anymore. The magnets are small and could NOT touch the side of the case but, to be on the safe side, I taped the outside of them with electrical/black vinyl tape just in case.

Thoughts?
 

imeothanasis

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Feb 13, 2009
47,882
34,510
Athens, Hellas
gg-goldengreek.com
You cant smoke because the button is too high now and it cant make the connection inside the case. So push it down a little and then push the button as always to see if there is connection. If yes, then smoke. But If the button's head still touches the case, a short circuit will happen again and no more atomizer for today.

So send it back to me.
 

Kendra

Super Member
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Mar 21, 2009
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Nashville
But If the button's head still touches the case, a short circuit will happen again and no more atomizer for today.

Okay. I'm so sorry I need so many explanations. I don't know what you mean here. Where would the button's head touch the case? Around the top part of the outside of the case, the button has a black rubber piece that keeps the button from actually touching the case. Where are you talking about? If I could fix this, I'd rather fix it than send it back.
 

imeothanasis

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Feb 13, 2009
47,882
34,510
Athens, Hellas
gg-goldengreek.com
Okay. I'm so sorry I need so many explanations. I don't know what you mean here. Where would the button's head touch the case? Around the top part of the outside of the case, the button has a black rubber piece that keeps the button from actually touching the case. Where are you talking about? If I could fix this, I'd rather fix it than send it back.

First of all no problem at all with questions, I like questions and I like people asking.

So, if you want to repair it, do the following:

1) Unthread the atomizer.
2) Take out the batteries
3) With the screwdriver pull out the button as you already did. Pull it until the button comes out totally.
4) Take off the insulant totally and put another shrink tube. We want the button not to touch the GG's case, so look how the insulant is in place and do the same.
5) Put the button back with slow and gently moves.

6) try to smoke
 

Kendra

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Mar 21, 2009
806
0
Nashville
First of all no problem at all with questions, I like questions and I like people asking.

So, if you want to repair it, do the following:

1) Unthread the atomizer.
2) Take out the batteries
3) With the screwdriver pull out the button as you already did. Pull it until the button comes out totally.
4) Take off the insulant totally and put another shrink tube. We want the button not to touch the GG's case, so look how the insulant is in place and do the same.
5) Put the button back with slow and gently moves.

6) try to smoke

Okay, I don't know what a shrink tube is, but I just pulled the button all the way out. And, I'm looking at it and cannot see where the button would be touching the case directly. It seems to be entirely protected in this black material.

So, would this still be the problem, since I'm pretty sure there's no touching. . . the black stuff is wider than the button and isn't in poor shape underneath the button, either. .. so it looks as if it's intact.

Does all the spring under the atomizer side need to do is touch the batteries? Or, does it need real spring action?

Lastly, if you sent me the shrink tube/insulating material you made on your lathe, could I do it here? That's assuming I need it, obviously, since the black rubber seems to be fine.

Also, since about 12, I'm using 3.7 batteries and no problem yet. Wouldn't I be having a short even with the 3.7 battery? I mean, I'd have a short no matter what-- whether 3.7 or 6, if that's what the issue is.
 

imeothanasis

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Feb 13, 2009
47,882
34,510
Athens, Hellas
gg-goldengreek.com
Okay, I don't know what a shrink tube is, but I just pulled the button all the way out. And, I'm looking at it and cannot see where the button would be touching the case directly. It seems to be entirely protected in this black material.

So, would this still be the problem, since I'm pretty sure there's no touching. . . the black stuff is wider than the button and isn't in poor shape underneath the button, either. .. so it looks as if it's intact.

Does all the spring under the atomizer side need to do is touch the batteries? Or, does it need real spring action?

Lastly, if you sent me the shrink tube/insulating material you made on your lathe, could I do it here? That's assuming I need it, obviously, since the black rubber seems to be fine.

Also, since about 12, I'm using 3.7 batteries and no problem yet. Wouldn't I be having a short even with the 3.7 battery? I mean, I'd have a short no matter what-- whether 3.7 or 6, if that's what the issue is.

First of all you need a new spring because the shrink one may damage the atomizer.

Second, you said that you vape nice with 3,7 volt. That means that you had a short circuit some time that shrink the spring but now you dont have one. But if you vape nice with 3,7v, that means that you atomizers arent so good to hold an 6 volt power. Do you remenber if you had a totally wicked atomizer?
 
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scrubadub

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Oct 12, 2008
404
13
London, UK
Hey Imeo - I had very similar stuff to Kendra happening with mine over the weekend. I had 3 atomisers die on 6 volts and then it stopped working altogether as the spring wasn't touching the batteries any more. I got it working again by stretching the spring out a bit and have been just using 3.7 (which I prefer the taste of) but from what you've said there it sounds like I may have a short?
 

imeothanasis

Unregistered Supplier
ECF Veteran
Feb 13, 2009
47,882
34,510
Athens, Hellas
gg-goldengreek.com
Hey Imeo - I had very similar stuff to Kendra happening with mine over the weekend. I had 3 atomisers die on 6 volts and then it stopped working altogether as the spring wasn't touching the batteries any more. I got it working again by stretching the spring out a bit and have been just using 3.7 (which I prefer the taste of) but from what you've said there it sounds like I may have a short?


Hi scrub, the spring is shrink? and the front big white grommet is in place?
And your model is the one with my button?
 
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scrubadub

Super Member
ECF Veteran
Oct 12, 2008
404
13
London, UK
The spring under the atomiser seemed to stop making a connection with the battery (it wasn't pushing the central pole up far enough to touch the atomiser) so nothing happened when I pushed the button . Stretching the spring slightly got it working again. The white grommet around the button is in place and seems intact.
 
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