If it is not shrink, then no short circut happened, just the spring was not big enough. It worked for a while and then (pushng and pushing again) it became a very little smaller. You did the right thing. A little stretcing and its new again.
GG Customers Comments
- Thread starter Kendra
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Okay. No, I never had a Totally Wicked atomizer. I've never used one of those. I might have the same kind, but I've never had one with the logo.
I'm vaping with a 3.7 and my atomizer is working okay, but sometimes it seems as if it's not making a connection and then I get no vapor. Then, I worry and think I burned out my atomizer again and then I try again and it works.
There's no white grommet (washer?) that I can see on the button side. But, I do have one on the spring side and that one is okay, it looks.
I've pulled out the spring a bit, too-- to make sure it made a connection. If it didn't make a connection, there'd be no power, right? So, if there's no power, it couldn't short out, right?
Maybe I'm wrong?
I don't want to be stuck using one brand of atomizer because, obviously, they are cheaper to buy in bulk from China, which is what I've since done.
It sounds like a short, yet my batteries are still fine. When I shorted out a 901 battery, it smoked and didn't work again. That only happened once with one faulty atomizer. .. I short-circuited two batteries and had to throw them out. This time, it seems as if the batteries are okay.
My spring is very compressed, but how would that ruin the atomizer?
I guess what I'm trying to clarify is if there's more than one thing going on or just one thing.
I have a hard spring that doesn't have any "spring" in it.
I have no white grommet on the button side.
I have black insulating material.
The black insulating material seems to completely encase the button and I do NOT think the button is touching the case at any point except the bolt at the bottom when I press it.
The black rubber appears to be intact.
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What??????
I ask again. Is there a big white grommet to the button's cup when you open it?
Because if not, we are looking all that time what is going wrong and nothing is going wrong exept that there is no white grommet!!!
The white grommet protects the button not to touch the front cup. The button and the front cup has a very small distance so if you throw the batteries to the button, the button maybe touch the cup and a short cirquit may happen. I dont know why there is no grommet in the front cup, but you must put one 16mm diameter and 1-2 mm width. And put another spring to the atomizer side.
You asked me how the spring must cause a problem to the atomizer. Well, if the spring is very hard like now (after the cirquit), the center pole of the atomizer will be pushed very hard after it gets threaded to the GG, so it will loose its rubber and the 2 atomizer's poles will get in touch. Thats it. A short will occure.
Maybe Tim forgot to put the grommet. I will kill him
ps..... If you see that you loose button pushes, then the contacts needs to be cleaned. Take a piece of wet cloth and clean the button's base and the point inside the GG that touches the button. Then no missing shots
I ask again. Is there a big white grommet to the button's cup when you open it?
Because if not, we are looking all that time what is going wrong and nothing is going wrong exept that there is no white grommet!!!
The white grommet protects the button not to touch the front cup. The button and the front cup has a very small distance so if you throw the batteries to the button, the button maybe touch the cup and a short cirquit may happen. I dont know why there is no grommet in the front cup, but you must put one 16mm diameter and 1-2 mm width. And put another spring to the atomizer side.
You asked me how the spring must cause a problem to the atomizer. Well, if the spring is very hard like now (after the cirquit), the center pole of the atomizer will be pushed very hard after it gets threaded to the GG, so it will loose its rubber and the 2 atomizer's poles will get in touch. Thats it. A short will occure.
Maybe Tim forgot to put the grommet. I will kill him
ps..... If you see that you loose button pushes, then the contacts needs to be cleaned. Take a piece of wet cloth and clean the button's base and the point inside the GG that touches the button. Then no missing shots
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Thanks Imeo. It's a very nice device but I think I'll stick to the 3.7 rather than 6 volts. It's way to harsh for my throat otherwise.
By the way, do you think maybe it would be an idea to sticky a post with labelled pictures of a disassembled GG? It might avoid some confusion if we can see the parts and what you call them
Very nice idea scrub, but the bad thing is that there are already 4 GG versions out there and I have only the latest one. So I cant show the others. But I can make a short catalog of what there is inside the versions, so if someone see what I wrote, he will understand whitch is his GG.
Sounds good to me Imeo. Maybe you could show labelled pictures of the latest model and then catalogue the differences on the older models?
GG's versions
1) the first button, bought it from a store. It has the button, the batteries and the spring to the atomizer
2) the second button witch has a black insulant to the button's head and the button does not have the same dimentions in all its length. (you see it if you open the front cup). It includes a white grommet in front of the button and no other change from the first version
3) its the 2nd version with the following changes: The button has the same width to all its length (you see it if you open the front cup), the insulant material is made by me and its white.
4)its the 5rd version with 90mm length
5) A whole new button with a vertical axis to the button and a white bolt inside the axis.
The spring is not to the atomizer's cup but on the new axis. At the button's base there is a gold nut inside it and not a silver nut outside it.
The GG's length is 85mm
1) the first button, bought it from a store. It has the button, the batteries and the spring to the atomizer
2) the second button witch has a black insulant to the button's head and the button does not have the same dimentions in all its length. (you see it if you open the front cup). It includes a white grommet in front of the button and no other change from the first version
3) its the 2nd version with the following changes: The button has the same width to all its length (you see it if you open the front cup), the insulant material is made by me and its white.
4)its the 5rd version with 90mm length
5) A whole new button with a vertical axis to the button and a white bolt inside the axis.
The spring is not to the atomizer's cup but on the new axis. At the button's base there is a gold nut inside it and not a silver nut outside it.
The GG's length is 85mm
pictures of the latest model are already posted to the updates thread Scrub
(back and front button)And if I understand well Scrub, you did not had a short cirquit, just a short spring
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And something else guys. Because I am a good boy , I will upgrade your GG with a very small cost. 20 euros total cost. 7 euros you will pay to the post office to send it to me, and 12 euros to me for sending to you (7 euros the post office and 6 euros only for the materials). You will not pay me for assembling-dissasembling or for the construction of the new stuff.
ps.....if you go to the videos thread you will see the new version live
, I will upgrade your GG with a very small cost. 20 euros total cost. 7 euros you will pay to the post office to send it to me, and 12 euros to me for sending to you (7 euros the post office and 6 euros only for the materials). You will not pay me for assembling-dissasembling or for the construction of the new stuff.ps.....if you go to the videos thread you will see the new version live
Hi guys!
Apologies for my lapse in communications, but we've had issues with our systems being down since friday and are now thankfully back on line.
As far as Kendras problems go, I personally think that the issue lies at the atomiser end:
1/ The atomiser end is causing the problem. As a general way of using the GG and avoiding any issues, always follow this advice when changing batteries/atomisers:
a/ remove atomiser connector cup
b/ push spring to ensure pin is raised above the insulation tube so that a good connection can be made with the atomiser
c/ insert batteries
d/ screw cup back on
e/ screw atomiser in place
NB. A good check to make sure the atomiser is making good contact with the pin, is to unscrew the atomiser and if the pin looks as though it is pushed below the insulation, this could cause a problem. To remedy, screw the atomiser back in place, remove the cup and push the spring to make sure that contact is being made with the atomiser. Then screw the cup back and try again.
Also, you may not have burned out your atomisers it may just be that the connection wasn't being made correctly so don't throw them out until you are sure.
Hope this helps and hello again everyone!
Apologies for my lapse in communications, but we've had issues with our systems being down since friday and are now thankfully back on line.
As far as Kendras problems go, I personally think that the issue lies at the atomiser end:
1/ The atomiser end is causing the problem. As a general way of using the GG and avoiding any issues, always follow this advice when changing batteries/atomisers:
a/ remove atomiser connector cup
b/ push spring to ensure pin is raised above the insulation tube so that a good connection can be made with the atomiser
c/ insert batteries
d/ screw cup back on
e/ screw atomiser in place
NB. A good check to make sure the atomiser is making good contact with the pin, is to unscrew the atomiser and if the pin looks as though it is pushed below the insulation, this could cause a problem. To remedy, screw the atomiser back in place, remove the cup and push the spring to make sure that contact is being made with the atomiser. Then screw the cup back and try again.
Also, you may not have burned out your atomisers it may just be that the connection wasn't being made correctly so don't throw them out until you are sure.
Hope this helps and hello again everyone!
Okay, I have no white grommet on the side WITH the button and I'm not sure where you're telling me to put it.What??????
I ask again. Is there a big white grommet to the button's cup when you open it?
Because if not, we are looking all that time what is going wrong and nothing is going wrong exept that there is no white grommet!!!
The white grommet protects the button not to touch the front cup. The button and the front cup has a very small distance so if you throw the batteries to the button, the button maybe touch the cup and a short cirquit may happen. I dont know why there is no grommet in the front cup, but you must put one 16mm diameter and 1-2 mm width. And put another spring to the atomizer side.
You asked me how the spring must cause a problem to the atomizer. Well, if the spring is very hard like now (after the cirquit), the center pole of the atomizer will be pushed very hard after it gets threaded to the GG, so it will loose its rubber and the 2 atomizer's poles will get in touch. Thats it. A short will occure.
Maybe Tim forgot to put the grommet. I will kill him
ps..... If you see that you loose button pushes, then the contacts needs to be cleaned. Take a piece of wet cloth and clean the button's base and the point inside the GG that touches the button. Then no missing shots
Can you explain to me? Remember, I'm not technical. And, I'm using the GG now without the white grommet and it's working right now (on 3.7v). Im' so sorrry for needing all these explanations. I really have no idea where you're talking about it going but I'm going to re-read the other posts.
Hi Kendra -
Don't worry - there isn't a white grommet on yours because I made the adjustments. Instead, I used the black rubber washer which automatically distances the button enough from the back cup.
I think that your issue is not with the button or the button end, but it is with atomiser connection or the atomisers themselves. I would do as Scrubadub did and pull the spring out enough to make sure that there is a good connection. Also read my previous post for further troubleshooting.
Don't worry - there isn't a white grommet on yours because I made the adjustments. Instead, I used the black rubber washer which automatically distances the button enough from the back cup.
I think that your issue is not with the button or the button end, but it is with atomiser connection or the atomisers themselves. I would do as Scrubadub did and pull the spring out enough to make sure that there is a good connection. Also read my previous post for further troubleshooting.
ImageShack® - imeothanasis's images
Mine doesn't look like this. Mine looks like this:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/members/kendra-albums-profile-picture1176-gg1.jpg
I don't know why I can't post a pic, I've done it before! But, anyways, I know the picture is dark, but you can see there's no bolt/screw there and you can't see, but there's no white grommet. That's all there is, what you see.
And, the thing is, it's not burning out my atomizers on 3.7 (yet), so why does this make a difference that the grommet and bolt are missing?
Mine doesn't look like this. Mine looks like this:
http://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/members/kendra-albums-profile-picture1176-gg1.jpg
I don't know why I can't post a pic, I've done it before! But, anyways, I know the picture is dark, but you can see there's no bolt/screw there and you can't see, but there's no white grommet. That's all there is, what you see.
And, the thing is, it's not burning out my atomizers on 3.7 (yet), so why does this make a difference that the grommet and bolt are missing?
Welcome Tim, I was lonely without you here
Kendra, if the reason isnt one of those that Tim said (bad connection), when the batteries hit the button, the button may touch the case. So , buy a 16mm diameter and 1mm-2mm width grommet and put it like a cup to the GG. Imagine that the grommet is a cup. Put it there and close the front cup. You are done. And I am afraid that maybe Tim is right, because your spring now is not a spring, so it may not touch the battery. You vape well now but maybe it is because the AA battery with the spacer is a little bigger than the 2 cr2, so the contact is established well. But I would like you to put the grommet and then try again with the 6 volts. The worse thing is to burn another atomizer.
You must know that Tim and I are here for everything you need. We are open to suggestions of repairing. (send it back for free, talking here etc)
Dont forget to buy a spring too. The grommet costs 0,1 cent and the spring has the same cost
Kendra, if the reason isnt one of those that Tim said (bad connection), when the batteries hit the button, the button may touch the case. So , buy a 16mm diameter and 1mm-2mm width grommet and put it like a cup to the GG. Imagine that the grommet is a cup. Put it there and close the front cup. You are done. And I am afraid that maybe Tim is right, because your spring now is not a spring, so it may not touch the battery. You vape well now but maybe it is because the AA battery with the spacer is a little bigger than the 2 cr2, so the contact is established well. But I would like you to put the grommet and then try again with the 6 volts. The worse thing is to burn another atomizer.
You must know that Tim and I are here for everything you need. We are open to suggestions of repairing. (send it back for free, talking here etc)
Dont forget to buy a spring too. The grommet costs 0,1 cent and the spring has the same cost
Hello All,
Unfortunately, I missed out on the last GG order, and am pleased by Tim's reply that I will be able to purchase one later this week! I am curious by all who have been using this hand crafted beauty, and are running exclusively at 6V. Amazingly, I have never owned a 901, so is there any worth to my purchasing Tim's 901 Attys., or will I be happy with only running 801's. I am looking for the most well rounded application: Taste/Vape/Throat Hit. If your collective advice is to just go 801, what is the recommended maintanance while smoking...how many drops on a fresh atty., with fully filled 801 cart? Top up after aprox. how many drags? Do you recommend a direct drop at the same time as top ups? I truly appreciate your trials and errors : )
Also, is it NOT adviced to be using VG formulas at 6V?!
Many thanks,
Mr.e
Unfortunately, I missed out on the last GG order, and am pleased by Tim's reply that I will be able to purchase one later this week! I am curious by all who have been using this hand crafted beauty, and are running exclusively at 6V. Amazingly, I have never owned a 901, so is there any worth to my purchasing Tim's 901 Attys., or will I be happy with only running 801's. I am looking for the most well rounded application: Taste/Vape/Throat Hit. If your collective advice is to just go 801, what is the recommended maintanance while smoking...how many drops on a fresh atty., with fully filled 801 cart? Top up after aprox. how many drags? Do you recommend a direct drop at the same time as top ups? I truly appreciate your trials and errors : )
Also, is it NOT adviced to be using VG formulas at 6V?!
Many thanks,
Mr.e
Hi guys, I just want to inject some info about the atomizers. I had problems with the Bestecig atomizers on 6v. While these are great (and cheap) with 3.7v, they don't handle the 6v. So I got some from Widows Bead Work - E-cigarette Store and they are $10 (901) work great and appear to be identical to TW's but less cost. I will take one apart and measure the coil diameter to be sure, as soon as one dies. I have been using my first one for 2 weeks now with 6v and no issues. The reason some companies can sell cheap atomizers is they use smaller diameter wire in the coil. This is no good for 6v.
For the 801 I hear the Janty's are the best for 6v but they are $18ea. 8-o
I will take one apart and measure the coil diameter to be sure, as soon as one dies. I have been using my first one for 2 weeks now with 6v and no issues. The reason some companies can sell cheap atomizers is they use smaller diameter wire in the coil. This is no good for 6v.For the 801 I hear the Janty's are the best for 6v but they are $18ea. 8-o
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Hi 5674, welcome here friend.
The best way for me is top up and drip at the same time with 2 drops per 10 inhales or until the first little burn taste come up. Then you top up if needed (maybe not) and 2 drops direct again.
I smoke 901 all the time just from habit but the 801 has better kick and smoke. As Tim said, maybe the dura c has better results than 801.
No one said that vg is not recommended. They just said that if you have a factory faulty atomizer witch has very small resistanse, the vg will get to something else than we expect. But its 1 in a million. So if you have a voltometer (10 euros cost), you can measure your atomizer before use and no problem
The best way for me is top up and drip at the same time with 2 drops per 10 inhales or until the first little burn taste come up. Then you top up if needed (maybe not) and 2 drops direct again.
I smoke 901 all the time just from habit but the 801 has better kick and smoke. As Tim said, maybe the dura c has better results than 801.
No one said that vg is not recommended. They just said that if you have a factory faulty atomizer witch has very small resistanse, the vg will get to something else than we expect. But its 1 in a million. So if you have a voltometer (10 euros cost), you can measure your atomizer before use and no problem
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