Its going to be probably at least 2 weeks before we get steel back in stock...RS is having fits with order fulfillment right now...
GotVapes.com GRAND OPENING! NOW!! FLüXomizer Clear CE2 Cartomizers Have Arrived - Incredible Pricing for ECF Members!
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I ain't worried. I got a whole pile of old unused stuff down here in the basement.
Ahhh, the gold mine that is the basement...What I wouldn't give for a peek...
Bad keeps the door at the top of the stairs locked. I can't get out and you can't get in.
Has anyone found any stainless tube that matches the size? My first blind grab at the hardware store was a loser. Outer diameter was pretty good, inner diameter was too small. Too thick...
The old 3 ml syringes’ work great, I’m using the ones I got from madvapes, just cut with single sided razor blades and pop on, no glue needed.
What size are you looking for. My calipers measured an E2 at .338"/8.6mm ID. Not the most common size out there.
not SS of course, just going KISS with it, let us know if you find that SS tubing off the shelf, should be, just a matter of finding the shelf here in the USA
Oh I was just hoping someone else would do the hard work, but I obviously need to go buy some calipers that can measure precisely enough. I'm wanting this for several purposes, and syringes won't cut the mustard for various reasons.
I tend to shy away from hard work when ever possible. It tends to pay the same or less than easy work. Go figure.
As to a ID size. Br would really be the one to ask. He has done many tube mods on a lathe and can give you a better idea of the OD range that E2 connectors come in.
The problem you are going to be up against is that OD range that the connectors have. So even if you find some thin wall tubing say .338" ID with a .010" wall thickness and it fits on the connector you have now, the next connector might be smaller so the tube is too lose. Or it might be bigger and the tube doesn't fit. The metal tubes are press fit onto the connectors. Not sure if you have a small press laying around and a die set for it.
The variation of connector OD is also what caused many problem with the Thicker Clearo tubes. When the Clearo tube got thicker, it lost malleability. So when a tube was press onto a slightly larger connector, something had to give. Unfortunately, that something was the thing that keeps the juice in the carto, the clear tube.
In a perfect world, a mod-er would turn the OD of the connector and then turn the ID of the tube to match. I'd love to crank out a couple hundred but my lathe has a broken gear in it. Big boat anchor right now and no time or money to fix it.
As to a ID size. Br would really be the one to ask. He has done many tube mods on a lathe and can give you a better idea of the OD range that E2 connectors come in.
The problem you are going to be up against is that OD range that the connectors have. So even if you find some thin wall tubing say .338" ID with a .010" wall thickness and it fits on the connector you have now, the next connector might be smaller so the tube is too lose. Or it might be bigger and the tube doesn't fit. The metal tubes are press fit onto the connectors. Not sure if you have a small press laying around and a die set for it.
The variation of connector OD is also what caused many problem with the Thicker Clearo tubes. When the Clearo tube got thicker, it lost malleability. So when a tube was press onto a slightly larger connector, something had to give. Unfortunately, that something was the thing that keeps the juice in the carto, the clear tube.
In a perfect world, a mod-er would turn the OD of the connector and then turn the ID of the tube to match. I'd love to crank out a couple hundred but my lathe has a broken gear in it. Big boat anchor right now and no time or money to fix it.
The plastic fat wicks fit perfectly into the older metal CE2 r4's. I use a machinist vice to press them in but any vice should work if the jaws are wide enough. I can get a measurement tomorrow but br would be a better source. I am to lazy right now to walk to my shop.
Good thoughts here absolutely - BUT what I see on the X clearos is that they 'seated' the clearo tube lower, down around the knurled part of the connector rather than changing the connector at all....
i use the tubes off my modded e2s on the clears tap them on with a hammer and cut them to 3/8 long ad a cut syringe havent had a leaker yet as long as you dont cut that silicone seal at the bottom of the ce2's
I take it that you use the metal tubes? How do you fill them? How do you know when they are completely full? I'm tired of the cracking clearomizers and thinking of trying the metal tubes,
Fill the same as a clearo. When an air bubble comes out the other hole on the filler ring I stop. You can also weigh them.
I use the metal ones stock out of the box...
After you've used a CE2 a while, you can usually tell when it's time to refill. It just stops vaping
Before I refill, I do put a drop on the atty and fire it just to make sure the coil still works:
I don't worry about wether it is packed to capacity or not...I just grab a syringe and shoot about .8ml in if it's a regular CE2, or around 1.7ml or so if it's an XL.
You can be careful, take it slow, and watch for fluid to start coming out the opposite fill hole, then reverse and suck out just a tiny bit (to leave some wicking air space in there)...but if in a hurry, I just shoot it in slow and steady then blow out excess juice and wipe. Sometimes I do waste a little juice in my haste...but it's fast and easy.
It didn't take me long using these to get a feel for them. They do last much longer than the clero sleeves, and they don't look so much like you're walking around with some kind of strange crack pipe if you like to vape in public.
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I fill mine straight out of the bottle, regardless of what I make them out of. But then, all of them have a custom built mouthpiece that also seals the tank. I just remove it and squirt in enough juice to fill it up to the bottom of the cup. Any more than that is usually a waste.
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