GP Series by VapourArt - Advance Notifications, Tips & Tricks & Updates Thread

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perseas

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GP PAPS v1, v2, v2.1, v2,5 WITH KICK TIPS & TRICKS

In case your kick module inside a GP PAPS tube doesn't permit to close the top cap without having a gap, remove the bottom screw from the telescopic post and try again. The kick's length varies from 1,5 mm to 1,9 mm, this is a production inconsistency. If we're making our tubes up to 4 mm lengthier for the bigger kicks, the battery alone would rattle inside and it wouldn't make a proper contact. From the other side, we try to keep our mods as small as possible, following the batteries's specs, that often break the rules.
The current sizes of our tubes are the best compromise we've found, after many changes and tests with all kinds of batteries.
GP PAPS v1 & v2 18500 tube was a 1 mm shorter and we increased its length in the next versions, as soon as we observed the kick's variable sizes, and this is the maximum possible increment.

Here is a video with the 18500 tube with a kick that fits perfectly, because its length is 15 mm, as it is supposed to be with all of their units, but probably your kick doesn't follow the rule.

 

perseas

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GP PAPS V2.5 LUX EDITION TIPS & TRICKS

POLISHING THE GP PAPS LUX

The traditional method of polishing the bronze is by rubbing it with a cloth soaked into a half glass of vinegar with a teaspoonful of salt, or using contemporary polishers like Autosol for chrome coated surfaces, all in all, a 5-20 minutes work, depending on the level of oxidisation which has been developed.

You can use salt and vinegar - add salt to make a paste, spread said paste upon your bronze, and wait. This will work, but if you want to make it really easy, just use some ketchup - no kidding, ketchup (or catsup, if you prefer) is both salty and acidic, contains sugar to make it sticky, and does a great job. After waiting 10 minutes to a couple of hours - depending on the degree of patina/oxidation, wipe off and rinse with plenty of fresh water. Everything which was brown or green should now look reddish or gold. The surface is still dull, though, and that leads to the next step.

If you want to be clean and ecologically green, baking soda is a reasonable abrasive, white toothpaste works as well. You can also make your own polish with pumice powder mixed with a bit of olive oil or water. Your easiest solution, however, is to get whatever metal polish is cheapest at the hardware store, as it will have chemicals (mineral spirits, ammonia, urea, ethanol) that help break down dirt, grease and oxidation, as well as some form of grit to help cut through the patina. Some popular polishes are Brite Boy, Flitz and Nevr-Dull, but there are many more. They all basically do the same thing, though some brands have a "protective" residue which is usually oil and/or wax, and doesn't work for long when faced with salt spray and direct sunlight.

Depending on the size and shape of the object, you can use polishing wheels, buffers, Dremel attachments, and/or do it by hand. In most cases a commercial metal polish will give excellent results within a reasonable amount of time, as long as the object has been polished since it was cast. The LUX tubes are polished in the first place, so the whole procedure needs no further steps. Eventually, you will have that golden, mirror finish you were hoping for.

There are two basic homemade polishes you can use to clean and polish your bronze. Using either method will help you safely remove the patina on your bronze pieces and restore their luster and shine. Both methods are equally as effective, so the choice is yours.

Baking Soda & Lemon Juice

What You Will Need:

Warm water
Clean towel
Small dish
Soft cotton polishing cloths (smaller size)
Lemon Juice (from concentrate is okay)
Baking soda
Rubber gloves (optional)

Clean that Bronze:

Rinse your bronze items in warm water, and dry thoroughly. This will safely remove any dust and/or particles that may hamper your polishing efforts.
Place about 2 tablespoons of baking soda in a small dish.
Drizzle a small amount of lemon juice onto the baking soda and mix until a soft paste forms (start out with just a little lemon juice and add more as needed). It is normal for the mixture to bubble at first, and will settle down after a moment or two.
Apply the paste to your bronze item using your hands (with the rubber gloves) or with a small polishing cloth.
With a polishing cloth, rub the paste onto the item using small circular motions. This is the key removal step and you may have to rub repeatedly until the desired effect is reached.
Allow the paste to stay on the item for 20 to 30 minutes.
Rinse the item thoroughly with warm water to remove the paste and buff dry with a clean towel.
If the greenish patina still remains, repeat steps 2 through 7.

Vinegar, Flour & Salt

What You Will Need:

Warm water
Clean towel
Small dish
Soft cotton polishing cloths (smaller size)
Distilled white vinegar
Flour
Salt
Rubber gloves (optional)

Clean that Bronze:

Rinse your bronze items in warm water and dry thoroughly. This will safely remove any dust and/or particles that may hamper your polishing efforts.
In a small dish, combine equal parts flour and salt.
Add white vinegar to the flour/salt mixture, using a few drops at a time until a soft paste forms (should be the consistency of toothpaste).
Apply the paste to your bronze item using your hands (with the rubber gloves) or with a small polishing cloth.
With a polishing cloth, rub the paste onto the item using small circular motions. This is the key removal step and you may have to rub repeatedly until the desired effect is reached.
Allow the paste to stay on the item for 20 to 30 minutes.
Rinse the item thoroughly with warm water to remove the paste and buff dry with a clean towel.
If the greenish patina still remains, repeat steps 2 through 7.

Additional Tips and Advice

In lieu of polishing cloths, try using an old white cotton tee shirt, cut into squares.
This process, while relatively simple, takes time and patience as the greenish patina may be quite stubborn and will require a bit of elbow grease to remove.
If the bronze item is small or has a lot of crevices and tight spots, try using a soft bristled toothbrush to rub the paste into hard to reach areas.
Although occasional polishing will keep your bronze looking shiny, using these methods too often may have the opposite effect, reducing the luster of the bronze finish.
Maintain your bronze items by regular dusting and rinsing; regular care will keep your bronze looking it’s best and lessen the need for more frequent polishing.
When you rinse your bronze items, be sure to dry thoroughly. While bronze is resistant to moisture, allowing it to remain wet and air-dry will hasten the formation of patina.
There are some commercial polishes available for bronze (usually in specialized stores or online). Some of these products can be harsh and are generally no more effective than the above polishing pastes.
The above cleaning techniques may also work well with brass items, since brass is also a copper alloy (copper and zinc).

Sources:

http://yachtpals.com/polishing-bronze-7051]How To Polish Bronze | YachtPals.com
How to Clean Bronze | Metals

LUX_6.jpg


A note of caution
Don't pass any abrasive polisher like BRASSO over the gold plated parts, it will peel off their coating. A soft wet cloth is enough, avoid rubbing the surface or using any chemicals and don't put the gold plated parts inside an ultrasonic cleaner.
 

perseas

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perseas

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GP PAPS V2.5 LUX Edition & GP LUX Replacement Kit TIPS & TRICKS

A note of caution, don't pass any polish like BRASSO over the gold plated posts and the button itself, it will peel off the coating. A soft wet cloth is enough. Most of these polishes contain hard grains and rubbing them over the gold plated surface, the silver coating will be revealed.
 
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perseas

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GP PAPS SS TUBES AND SWITCHES TIPS & TRICKS

The GP PAPS tubes v2.1 are compatible with the GP PAPS switch v1, v2, v2.1 and v2.5
The GP PAPS 18350 tube SS Edition v2.5, which replaces the v2.1, will be produced later as a spare, but without serial number, only our logo as the rest sizes. The 18350 tube is serialised when it comes as a mod.
 

perseas

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GP SERIES UPDATE

The GP PAPS v2.5 18500 & 18650 alu-bronze tubes aren't ready yet, as well the v2.5 SS ones.
We wait the alu-bronze rods to arrive and they will be available around the middle of the month.
The SS tubes will be ready earlier.
The GP PAPS SS v2.1 polished tubes are available in 8500, 18650 and 18800 sizes.
This week's batch will have GP PAPS v2.5 18350 LUX Edition & SS Edition mods and GP PAPS v2.5 switches.
We wait also, the first switches of GP Piccolo v3.1 to be tested, I'll post about them this week.
GP Spheroid units will arrive in 2 weeks.
GP Salt & Pepper is under production, in a few days we shall have it ready.
 
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perseas

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GP PAPS SS TUBES AND SWITCHES TIPS & TRICKS

Male and female threads in relation to calibrated and non calibrated connections

I quote myself from a previous post with a different wording to clarify why some things aren't 100% always compatible.
A calibrated switch has a female threading so it fits to a non calibrated tube , because the latter is always wider.
A calibrated tube as the LUX and SS v2.5 tube and 90% of v2.1 ( the 10% are the ones with the square nut and the clockwise threads), has a female threading , so a few non calibrated switches and top caps potentially won't fit, because the tolerance is only 0,05 mm.

Potentially won't fit means that the switch might screw, but not completely, leaving a small gap of 0,1-0,5 mm. Or it might not screw at all, though I haven't seen that yet. A gap, even 0,1 mm is minimal, but visually is ugly and shows incompatibility.

The mod in the photo below has a v1 switch non calibrated into a calibrated v2.5 LUX tube, leaving 0,3 mm gap for the aforementioned reason. The top cap is v2 and it fits well, but another one from the same version might leave a tiny gap.

y3uvyvap.jpg
 

perseas

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Polisher and Brusher adaptor (PnB)

image.jpg


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image_1.jpg


PnB adaptor is a small accessory we've designed for the people who want to brush and polish their mods with their Dremel or a device with a larger chock.

It has 2 parts, one part with male 510 connector for mods and the other part with female connector for atomizers.
It is for generic use, so we used 303 SS low grade for its construction, in order its threads to be harmless for mods and atomizers that aren't from 316 SS.

PnB adaptor is under production and soon it will be at Vapour Art Store. The photos above are from a pre production unit.
 

perseas

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GP Telescopic Centre Post v2.5

From this batch and onwards, every GP PAPS v2.5 mod, every GP telescopic centre post, every replacement crossed and flat top cap and every LUX replacement kit shall include a second M3 screw, while the M5 screw will be longer by 0,5 mm. In that way, the user can handle all the disparities of the different sizes of batteries and Kick inconsistent length in 18500, 18650 mode and 18800 mode. The price remains unaffected.

The GP Telescopic Centre Post v2.5 will have the following parts:

1x M3 brass male screw with 1,2 mm head.
1x M3 brass male screw with 2,2 mm head.
1x M5 brass male screw, with 6,6 mm length and M3 female threads
1x PEEK II thermoplastic insulator reinforced with glass fibres for stiffness and durability, FDA approved.
 
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perseas

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5th Batch Update

The orders that include a GP PAPS LUX & SS v2.5 will be sent on Wednesday, a day later from the scheduled delivery.
We'll receive tomorrow afternoon, the new upgraded GP telescopic centre post v2.5, and we shall put them in the current orders as a free upgrade, instead of sending the previous version :)
 

perseas

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GP SPHEROID TIPS & TRICKS

Cut with scissors a fluff strip with proportions of 45 - 90 mm x 20 mm and wrap it around the bell of GP Spheroid. Its length and thickness is depending on the viscosity of the eliquid and the VG/PG ratio.

By Idaholandho

This is about the size I use. Please take note on the thickness if possible. It is a thin piece. I still will trim a bit after wrap. If the wool extends the tube after assembly, I tamp it in carefully with a small screwdriver, add juice and vape.
I boil all my wool before use to remove impurities, funny I find the wool wicks a bit better after I rinse it when changing flavors. After rinsing I dry it with a hair dryer if im in a hurry to use again.

j_Sm4_Gh_B.jpg


By qorax

Well said Idaho. The right size is very important to get the best out of our Spharry. I use a tad smaller piece.
Cut it to about 2cms x 4.5cms, while keeping the width less than 2mm (not compressed, but in fully fluffed state). And mine is wicking damn well. The coil is at 1.3 Ω and am using 70:30 PG/VG in 18mg strength. And I'm in total bliss !
 
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perseas

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GP Series Updates

We are checking the SnP units for this week's run, till now all is good.

In 7-10 days, we shall have the GP Piccolo v2.6 and v3.1 for a limited and last run and we are going to keep some units for support. A few units will be given to our resellers..

After 6 months of changing CNC shops and making different revisions, we decided to stop the current design as extremely counterproductive. The making of the switch is quite time consuming and the tolerance we got in the moving parts is satisfying, but not excellent. The GP Piccolo will circulate again with a new design for the switch, alike with the v2.5 switch..



The upcoming v2.6 and 3.1 switch's design of the GP Piccolo limited run, will be present in GP PAPS X, but more developed and with extreme machining precision, the kind we wanted to have for the GP Piccolo in the first place. This week, I'll post photos of the GP PAPS X, before it goes for production..



The high temperature lacquered LUX tube proved to be a PITA, its lacquer peeled off, when I rubbed with keys & other mods intentionally, so we'll forget it.
 
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