GP Series by VapourArt - Advance Notifications, Tips & Tricks & Updates Thread

[perseas]

GP Series Updates

The GP Spheroid has been prepared already except the finish. When the machining is done, we electropolish all the metal parts, then we polish them and finally we engrave them. From the coming batch, we shall have an additional finish, the bead blasted treatment which gives a non slippery, non reflective surface with good scratch resistance properties. This stage comes after the polishing and before the engraving. The GP Spheroid will be bead blasted in all its external surface. The other two styles of finish, the polished and the brushed one will become available in future batches.
The same treatment will be applied to the GP Piccolo v2.6 and v3.1. They are also ready, except the bead blasting treatment which will be applied only on the tubes, the top caps and the switches will have a polished finish.

The GP Classy and GP Vase drip tips will come with the GP Spheroid batch.

On Monday, we shall receive them all for engraving and at the end of the next week , if all is good, they will be in stock at Vapour Art Store. A few days later, they will be available at the stores of our resellers.

This week we shall have a batch of GP SnP tanks and the GP PAPS X will be released during August.

The GP PAPS v2.5 SS Edition and LUX Edition will come also in a few days with spare switches and caps.

 

[perseas]

2nd batch of GP salt & Pepper tank (SnP) 22/23 mm is coming

2nd batch of GP® Salt & Pepper Tank (SnP) 22/23 mm is coming

TIME ZONES ​

 

[perseas]

A GP Series Multi Batch Is Coming

A GP® Series Multi Batch Is Coming

TIME ZONES ​

 

[perseas]

GP Piccolo v2.6 and v3.1 Upgrade Parts

Whoever has an issue with the switch of GP Piccolo v2.5 and v3, please send an email to info(at)vapourart.com titled GP PICCOLO UPGRADE PARTS, referring your order number, the version and the serial number and we'll fix it.

The current design of the switch will be discontinued as counterproductive, while an evolved version will be present in the GP PAPS X's switch and the upcoming version of the GP Piccolo hasn't backward compatibility.

 

[perseas]

GP PAPS X UPDATE

Guys and gals, we just returned from Sofia, 2000 km trip by car in 2,5 days, that explains my absence here

We were hoping to give you a taste of the GP PAPS X, by releasing 100 units on August, before we close for summer vacations, but this isn't possible.

We searched for a spring making company in Sofia, because during August all companies in Athens are closed. Unfortunately, the same happens there and we have to wait till the first days of September to have the spring for the GP PAPS X.

The contacts will be silver plated brass - silver thickness is 15 microns - and they will be ready the coming week.

I shall post photos from the production unit in its final form, if not tomorrow or later today, for sure on Monday.

 

[perseas]

GP PAPS X SNEAK PREVIEW


GP PAPS® X SNEAK PREVIEW

 

[perseas]

Pay attention where you buy GP Series mods.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Genki-Vape/566001236756321

VapouArt.com LTD has no affiliation with Genki Vape from Lakewood and whatever of our product is bought from their shop is not covered by our warranty and our customer support.
They probably bought them from us in retail prices, but they haven't got any permission to sell them in their shop.
GP Series Official resellers can be found in our site.

 

[perseas]

Beware, the GP PAPS LUX #743 was stolen during Vapefest 2013 in UK.

 

[perseas]

GP SPHEROID TIPS & TRICKS

You can use 34 gauge (0,16 mm) twisted wire, a coil 1,2 - 1,5 Ω for a strong throat hit, dense vapour and intense taste.
It has been tested to stand repetitive dry burnings with excellent results.

 

[perseas]

GP SPHEROID TIPS & TRICKS

Quick setup by qorax

1. For a first timer the 'lasso-loop' wick works best/easy,
2. Keep the lasso-loop between 1.0-1.25cms max,
3. Try using 2mm Silica,
4. Use a needle (syringe size) to wrap ur Kanthal over the Silica,
5. Keep the resistance between 1.1-1.3Ω (off course taking that u r on mechs),
6. Attach coil head-up (image below) with only 1mm gap from base air-hole,
7. Cut the SERA around 45 x 20mm, with a 2mm fluffed thickness,
8. Keep the Air-Channel tube clear of the SERA,
9. Fill-in about 1.5ml of juice (use a syringe),
10. Prime the wick with 4-5 drops before closing the system.

Setup by Idahlandho

I received this bead blasted Piccolo and Spheroid from VapourArt about a week ago. It is my 3rd in my collection and the most stunning combination. The finish is very nice on the eyes, smooth, comfortable and durable.

This morning I finally got to building it and took some pictures hoping those that have asked can follow my lead. I am using 2mm ekowool and .30ga wire.

Starting off I cut my Sera Wool to 1.0 x 2.75 inches, so that I can wrap twice around the bell/air tube clockwise. You will notice that the wool extends past the airtube, I just trim it level with tube. I then screw the outer tube onto the bell. Should look like this during and after complete.

I then grab my favorite juice and a syringe. I usually poke the wool with the syringe to make sure that my wool isn't stuffed too tight but this becomes unnecessary after a build or two.
Fill the syringe(I'm at 3.5ish ml) and insert juice into the sides while pulling out slowly. When full your tank should look like this.

And....Done with the Tank!

WICK!
The way I have been building my wicks varies each build. This way is very simple and I like the way the loops stand tall on each side of the air tube for the life of the wick. Here we go!
Silica or ekowool both work wonderful. I just happen to have 2mm ekowool in abundance.

I wrap the wick around my finger twice as shown. I then use a needle(again, not needed after practice/can use paperclip also) for the base of my wick. I snip an appropriate length of wire, torch it(removes spring in wire) and then hold 1/2 inch down and start wrapping loop together around the needle and tight. The needle prevents wick choking and allows me to adjust my loop size by pulling ends. As you may tell I leave the wick attached to my wick supply and will not cut until I am through as this will conserve your precious wick.

HINT A Torch the ends of your wick till the glow if using ekowool to prevent fraying and it will make it a snap to cut eko if you torch the area you are to cut.
I then place the needle onto the base of the Spheroid and attach the wires to the nuts. Hand tightening the nuts is easy but if you have sausage fingers grab a small set of needle nose. When attaching, a diagonal wick is easy enough as well, just thought I would keep it simple.

HINT B When attaching the wick the length of wire from coil to post can be adjusted - the longer the leads = more space = more airy draw and vise versa. The wick/coil height will also effect how it contacts the Sera Wool. I prefer them just touching not jammed into the wool.


NOTE FYI - a wick in this fashion is just as good when tails cut and loop a bit smaller. Just an option.

I then check my ohms and torch the wick a bit regardless of medium and than blow wick off. (glass is glass people).

Time to dry fire and your coil should heat from the inside out.

I then add a bit of juice to the wick and measure it with the side of the tube so that I can see that it will fit without being jammed into the wool and potentially blocking air tube.

First, fire! Not to shabby and will sure get better when break in occurs!

And now, we must vape!

I hope this helps someone out there. Please pm with any questions or tips for me!!

Always wishing the Best and Thank You Perseas for everything brother.
Chris

Microcoil setup by rhino

Wicking fine using Juwel filler, .32 wire and 2 x 1mm strands of silica, nice smooth vape, I double bubble every pull and it's kept up ok so far

How to avoid hot spots and hot legs when you setup the GP Spheroid.

Question by xtreme101
So the center coil wraps suppose to get 'red' first? Any tips for not getting a hot leg on one or both tail-ends of my coil?

Answer by qorax:
Yes, our coils should typically fire-up outwards... the centre gets 'red' immediately upon kicking the button and slowly it extends towards the legs. This is with any atty, not just the Spheroid:
-Hot Legs: Avoid by having the 'shortest' length* between the coil and the post/s.
-Hot Spots: Avoid by having good wire-to-wick# contact.
__________________________________________________ _________
*Usually doesn't occur when we've placed the coil diagonally between the posts, right 'over' the base's air-hole. And when the wrapping begins from one post and ends at the other!
#This is tad tricky though - gets better as you go by, with experience. Too tight - u r choking the flow, too loose - hot legs! Usually a needle between the wicks, while coiling, and wound moderately tight, works towards a nice setup.

 

[perseas]

A multibatch is coming with eliquids, mods, tanks, atomizers and spares, on September 13, Vapourday at 18:00 p.m. Local time Athens.

We shall not combine shipping for multiple orders with the same address, please consider it prior your order.

All orders will be dispatched from Monday 16 of September till Thursday 19 of September.

 

[perseas]

September 20, Vapourday - GP PAPS X

September 20, Vapourday

TIME ZONES​

 

[perseas]

GP SPHEROID TIPS & TRICKS

Cotton setup By Idaholandho

Hello GP friends,
I have been dabbling in cotton for about 1.5 months but have been using non refined. My buddy xtreme and I have been talking a bit lately and he was nice enough to send me some cotton that he has been using along with other goodies. As Qorax shows in his picture, Sugar and Cream.
I had to get right on the build with one of my Piccolo/Spheroid combos that was begging for a build.
I boiled the cotton for 20 minutes(ok I am lying, my wife boiled it as I would of screwed something up ) to rid of all impurities.

I then wrapped my standard loop wick as, I am afraid the single strand would be weighed down from the juice and caramelisation after a tank or so.

Then wrapped the bell/airtube with fluff and placed the tube over it and added some 50/50 to the fluff with syringe and soaked the wick also.

This picture ia simultaneous from the first fire. Very impressive vapor for a coil/wick setup on the first fire and not broken in.

I currently am on my second tank with no issues and fantastic flavor from the cotton. I am enjoying quite a bit more than my usual ekowool set up due to the clean flavour.
The wick is standing up and I am a believer that the loop wick is adding support and enhancing the wicking properties as it wicks the loops and there is more surface area of the cotton in contact with the fluff/juice.

Thank you again extreme for the cotton, Thank you again Perseas for the Spheroid.

 

[perseas]

October 7, Vapourday​

TIME ZONES​

 

[perseas]

About the GP Telescopic Centre Post v2.6

As many people here know, we have changed the dimensions of our telescopic posts 3 times (v2.1, v2.5, v2.6) in order to follow the changes of the Kick ( I love its constant sense by the way, it keeps me vaping when I have a 3 weeks old resistance of 2,8Ω, and I am too lazy to change it) and the inconsistent length of different brands of batteries which are usually are out of their specs. The default length of a 510 atomizer should be 4mm, more than this is out of specs.

In an ideal world, every battery would have the exact length of its category, the kick would have a length equal to the difference between a 18500 battery and a 18650 one and the 510 connectors would have all 4 mm length. Reality check: the batteries appear to have a tolerance of 2,5 mm out of specs, the kick2 about 2,82 mm more than the difference between a 18500 and a 18650 battery and the Kayfun 3.1 ES 0,5 mm (it is 4,7 mm in many units), total 5,82 mm out of specs. Additionally, we want to keep the minimalistic style of our mods, so we have to accept some limitations.

The second pair of brass screws, the GP telescopic post v2.6 is included with every GP PAPS X as a help to aforementioned matters. In that way we have 6 combinations using the silver posts and the brass ones. The truth is, when you have 4 variables in an equation (battery-kick-510 connection-minimalistic design), the whole scheme becomes a designer's nightmare and some compromises are unavoidable.

 

[perseas]

GP PAPS X UPGRADE START

On October 4th, we shall start an ultra fast production of the GP PAPS X top caps modified slightly to have a greater efficiency regarding the air flow.

About 210 GP PAPS X units that have been sold with the old caps which work flawlessly, but they aren't 100% satisfying for all, because for some people the draw is tight. We shall send free of charge new top caps to all the people who have already bought the GP PAPS X to ensure that their experience will be superb. When they receive them, they shall return us the old ones back via simple mail for updating. The return address will be enclosed in the parcel of the new top cap.

In order to avoid further delays, we won't respond to emails asking to buy something additional with it, or suggesting a different approach, the whole procedure will be done as it has been described.

As a result, the upcoming vapourday on 7th October is rescheduled for the 14th October, Monday at 24:00 midnight local time Athens.

A longer AFC will be also ready then, for those who don't want to use the air flow control.

The GP PAPS X releases from our resellers are rescheduled for a week later from their initial date.

 

[perseas]

GP PAPS X UPGRADE FINAL

The production of the new top cap has started and at the end of the week, we'll start sending them to the owners of the GP PAPS X.
The air holes are 8 now.

A new AFC, 1 mm higher from the current one for a flush look, is already in production, not pictured here. This will be available as a spare, with the other upcoming replacement parts of GP PAPS X.
It serves ornamental purposes and it can be used with atomizers that haven't bottom air channels.
But, it has been designed to work with the Spheroid and similar OD atomizers providing a non adjustable air flow.
It will come out in a brushed finish similar to the rest of the GP PAPS X body to ensure an unobtrusive appearance.

 

[perseas]

GP PAPS X TIPS & TRICKS

The specific batteries will have firing issues inside the GP PAPS X. The Panasonic's coating isn't according the safety standards for batteries and the black battery isn't an IMR AW, it is a protected AW ICR one with 3 legs and flat top.

From our beginning of mod making, back in 2011, we refrained to use ICR batteries and all our mods have been designed to be used with a kick that also uses AW IMR and Efest IMR batteries, so we recommend only them.

Thanks to a GP PAPS X user's smart addition, both shall work inside the X without any firing issues.

A green O-ring can be used from an air conditioning O-ring kit and the size is 7/16” X 3/32”

A black O-ring from a metric O-ring kit is a bit thinner but works as well. # R-08. Size is 11 mm X 2,5 mm.

VAPOURDAY 14 OCTOBER​

 

[perseas]

GP SERIES UPDATES

GP SnP 22 mm with SS tank.

GP SnP 23 mm with SS tank and experimental covers from 316 SS coated with nitride of Titanium.

Experimental nitride of Titanium coating in gold brushed finish over 316 SS for the GP PAPS X.

 

[perseas]

GP PAPS X Serial Numbers

Thank you so much my friend Qorax
The owners of the GP PAPS X, may go to the link below to put their serial number.



==================================================================

HOW DO I 'ADD' MY INFO?
Just go to the serial number where you want to post yours. Then click "Insert" from the Menu above. Now select "Row Below" or "Row Above" as the case maybe. You'll get an empty row... now type your details. Once done typing - just close the doc. And voilà, your info shall be automatically saved in my drive√ (screenshot below):

==================================================================