GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Spheroid, GP PAPS, X, GP Piccolo, GP SnP and more - Part 3

[perseas]

Good advice. I'll play around a bit with it. I use 50/50 almost exclusively. I've noticed that although I've come close to getting the Heron running as well as I'd like, I still run into juice out the AFC, or worse. Today the vapor dropped off and I opened it up thinking it was time to recharge. Discovered juice in the battery chamber. This was with a fluff of about 2.25".

Over wicking can flood the interior of GPin guiding drops of juice inside the battery tube. Clean the GPin once per week from the juice remnants to avoid potential leaks.
Keep the wick tails short, otherwise they will over wick. Generally all Apheroid and Heron builds by using the minimum quantities of fluff and wick you ensure the best results. Fill the chamber slowly, when the fluff's surface is slightly saturated, it's time to stop, otherwise liquid will result inside the base and later in the GPin.

 

[StrikeIII]

Our beloved US GP representative, Blake of Domo, had posted some very good news today on FB.

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[Todai]

I think P needs to send Blake some v3 photos. He's still using v2.5 photos on the v3 product page, lol.

On another note, great news on the price drop!

 

[cliffy15]

I just read his post and noticed that the Paps X will be discontinued in its current state? So they'll only be shipping with single-piece tubes now?

 

[sedge]

If I read correctly, I'm super happy. The X is my favorite but all I use is 18650s. Now if I can get it without AFC, and just the X ring, I'd really be ecstatic.

 

[Firestorm]

I just read his post and noticed that the Paps X will be discontinued in its current state? So they'll only be shipping with single-piece tubes now?

It sounds like the GP Paps X will be discontinued in favor of the GP X.

The serialized tube changed from the 18350 tube to the 18500 tube with the introduction of the GP Paps v3 and now it seems that you can only use an 18350 battery with a Kick in the GP X. I hope that VapourArt isn't moving away from 18350 batteries as they are my favorite.

 

[StrikeIII]

I just hope there will be a full Lux version with the choice of 650 or 500 tubes. I want a full Lux eventually and would like just a 650 tube rather than buying it separately but if not it won't be a big deal to get it separately.

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[Firestorm]

If I read correctly, I'm super happy. The X is my favorite but all I use is 18650s. Now if I can get it without AFC, and just the X ring, I'd really be ecstatic.

"The GP® X mod started as a project after the release of X Tubes LUX Edition on June 24th 2014 for those wishing an alternate look for their GP PAPS X SS Edition. Later on we developed X Tubes SS Edition and now we offer a non modular GP® X mod with one tube, 18500 or 18650 and X ring instead of an AFC Ring."

I just hope there will be a full Lux version with the choice of 650 or 500 tubes. I want a full Lux eventually and would like just a 650 tube rather than buying it separately but if not it won't be a big deal to get it separately.

There is the GP X LUX Edition, unless the "full" version you seek includes an aluminum bronze top cap and switch (yeah, I want that too).

 

[StrikeIII]

There is the GP X LUX Edition, unless the "full" version you seek includes an aluminum bronze top cap and switch (yeah, I want that too).

Yes! That's what I want. I'm late to the lux game but was never a fan of patina but now I'm willing to give it a shot.

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[Firestorm]

Yes! That's what I want. I'm late to the lux game but was never a fan of patina but now I'm willing to give it a shot.

I find that my aluminum bronze mods patina MUCH slower than my brass and copper mods. They also seem to patina more evenly, certainly more so than copper. I find that it takes a lot of work to polish the patina off my brass mods, but copper and aluminum bronze (a copper alloy) are much simpler to restore to a shine - just a 10 second buff with a sunshine cloth will restore them so they look brand new.

 

[StrikeIII]

I find that my aluminum bronze mods patina MUCH slower than my brass and copper mods. They also seem to patina more evenly, certainly more so than copper. I find that it takes a lot of work to polish the patina off my brass mods, but copper and aluminum bronze (a copper alloy) are much simpler to restore to a shine - just a 10 second buff with a sunshine cloth will restore them so they look brand new.

Good to know Firestorm. Thanks. That's what I've heard about with AB which is what I'd rather deal with vs. Brass or Copper.

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[darksparkle13]

I finally found the copper mod I wanted to try it on.
Picked up a $60.00 one to experiment with, just incase I ruined it
I wanted stainless steel trim, and a copper tube that didn't have a deep etching on it, as I didn't know if it would show through.
So, I picked up the ammonia at the store today, and I will soon be playing in the garage.
Can't wait ... it better look just like the one in the video
I'll take pictures, but I'll have to learn how to post them

Slots you must have been reading my mind, I was goign to get a very cheap brass mod & experiment before doing this to my beloved Paps lux.... cant wait to see pics!!!

 

[sedge]

Thanks Firestorm. I'm super happy. No more seams or extra parts laying around. I see several more in my near future.

 

[pmuniz10920]

GP X??? I have been out of circulation... I'm confused...

 

[newyork13]

Thanks for the feedback Perseus. After my leakage into the battery chamber, I trimmed the tails shorter, and it's worked dandy since.
A couple of questions: first, when you say keep the tails short, do you mean trimmed just past the end of the coil, or longer to reach down onto the deck?; second, for a loop type wick, about how long do you build the loop? (I noticed some tutorials have the loop long enough to overlap a fair bit of the fluff, where others are just short enough to just touch the fluff; which do you recommend for best results?

Slightly different question: the nichrome which you included with my recent Spheroid, I'm not sure what the .15 equates to in gauge. Just trying to determine where it lies in the various charts I have relating to coil builds and ohms. And when I know what the gauge is, do I then just use the coil dimensions/wraps/etc. as for kanthal wire?

And last, the Spheroid is a great device. thanks.

Over wicking can flood the interior of GPin guiding drops of juice inside the battery tube. Clean the GPin once per week from the juice remnants to avoid potential leaks.
Keep the wick tails short, otherwise they will over wick. Generally all Apheroid and Heron builds by using the minimum quantities of fluff and wick you ensure the best results. Fill the chamber slowly, when the fluff's surface is slightly saturated, it's time to stop, otherwise liquid will result inside the base and later in the GPin.

 

[Slots]

Slots you must have been reading my mind, I was goign to get a very cheap brass mod & experiment before doing this to my beloved Paps lux.... cant wait to see pics!!!

Hey, OK
I wanted to try both copper and brass, just to see the patina color difference, if any.
So if you do the brass, and I do the copper, we can compare.
I'm not sure there will be much difference, as I've never been able to hold one of each and compare.
It took me a long time to find just "the right one" to work with, so now I'm "gun-ho", starting tomorrow.
Keep me posted
You have to take a lot of pictures too

 

[Cucco]

So, the new GP X SS Edition, is an 'X' with a solid tube in either 500 or 650 mode(Plus an 'X' ring.)? No other changes?

 

[perseas]

The GP PAPS X LUX EDITION won"t be produced again, while the SS EDITION will continue to be produced. We made the X TUBES for those wanting a Lux look for their X, without having to buy a whole X Lux. That was the initial concept. Then people asked for SS X TUBES and now we have GP X LUX and SS EDITION in parallel with GP PAPS X SS EDITION v1.5.

 

[perseas]

Thanks for the feedback Perseus. After my leakage into the battery chamber, I trimmed the tails shorter, and it's worked dandy since.
A couple of questions: first, when you say keep the tails short, do you mean trimmed just past the end of the coil, or longer to reach down onto the deck?; second, for a loop type wick, about how long do you build the loop? (I noticed some tutorials have the loop long enough to overlap a fair bit of the fluff, where others are just short enough to just touch the fluff; which do you recommend for best results?

Slightly different question: the nichrome which you included with my recent Spheroid, I'm not sure what the .15 equates to in gauge. Just trying to determine where it lies in the various charts I have relating to coil builds and ohms. And when I know what the gauge is, do I then just use the coil dimensions/wraps/etc. as for kanthal wire?

And last, the Spheroid is a great device. thanks.

The nichrome wire's thickness is 15 mm. The charts for nichrome, give you the resistance value based on length and thickness. A 15 mm thickness nichrome wire as a coil of 4-5 turns is around 1Ω.

I'm glad you like it.

The wick has to just touch the surface of the fluff to avoid over wicking.

 

[wildvet]

Watching the lunar eclipse at work. In a way, it's like watching paint dry. Yet I can't stop running outside to view it! Pretty cool.

What's even cooler is I'm chatting with my friend in New Zealand who's watching the very same eclipse thousands of miles away [emoji1]


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