Innokin iSub RBA Kit!!!!

[Jim_ MDP]

I was put off by some print reviews complaining about "getting the leg into the hole" or "working with the L bend in the leg" and pictured something bizarre.
Seeing it in the video... I really like the idea of the design and especially having screws to trap the leads.
Sounds much less fiddly than the usual grommet/insulator set-up.

Any complaints here about it?

 

[Jim_ MDP]

Oh, and a manual written in conversational English.
How the hell did that happen?

 

[Vinnybagodoughnuts]

Maybe they could put smaller wick holes in. Then we could drop the coil in the terminal holes with tweezers slide the jig in it to keep it positioned then tighten the screws. I think this would solve the problem. It wouldn't be very hard to alter it as all the parts except the included 3.5 jig would still work.

 

[Vinnybagodoughnuts]

I was put off by some print reviews complaining about "getting the leg into the hole" or "working with the L bend in the leg" and pictured something bizarre.
Seeing it in the video... I really like the idea of the design and especially having screws to trap the leads.
Sounds much less fiddly than the usual grommet/insulator set-up.

Any complaints here about it?

Oh, and a manual written in conversational English.
How the hell did that happen?

The wire hole is not easy but it can be done. The manual may be in English but is still a little confusing regarding the oring and it states you can leave both screws in loosely to build. Well you cant; one screw has to be removed.It is definitely better then the usual Chinglish.☺

 

[Vinnybagodoughnuts]

Anybody else having trouble getting the glass out of the top cap?Mine has always been a pita.I would have to stick it in the freezer and wrap the top and glass with masking tape to get the stupid thing apart.Well guess what happened this time??Spent 15 minutes trying to remove all the pieces of broken glass out of the lid.I am seriously considering pitching this thing. Hate throwing good money after bad and of course this is the only tank I own that didn't come with a spare.The worst part is it should be a simple thing to get the top glass to mate up with an oring.

 

[Stegle]

Anybody else having trouble getting the glass out of the top cap?Mine has always been a pita.I would have to stick it in the freezer and wrap the top and glass with masking tape to get the stupid thing apart.Well guess what happened this time??Spent 15 minutes trying to remove all the pieces of broken glass out of the lid.I am seriously considering pitching this thing. Hate throwing good money after bad and of course this is the only tank I own that didn't come with a spare.The worst part is it should be a simple thing to get the top glass to mate up with an oring.

Confused me again there, glass...in the rba kit?
Which iSub are you referring to? G, S, Apex, Apex5?

 

[Stegle]

I was put off by some print reviews complaining about "getting the leg into the hole" or "working with the L bend in the leg" and pictured something bizarre.
Seeing it in the video... I really like the idea of the design and especially having screws to trap the leads.
Sounds much less fiddly than the usual grommet/insulator set-up.

Any complaints here about it?

Oh I'd take a grommet insulator fiddle against this one any day, if wicking was simple in design.

This one has wicking issues that demand perfection in order to work properly and not leak.
It's too easy to cross thread the spit cap, and getting the L bend in that slot can be tedious also. The video makes it look so easy but I can't reproduce same results.
At least you only have to do that once, and then your coil can be cleaned (dry burned) several times before you need to do it again?

The design doesn't allow you the convenience of putting it in an ohm meter or a mod to rebuild. Finger hold on this tiny thing can get frustrating, at least for me.
I do love a challenge and I keep playing with it, but I think a revision will be coming as it has too many quirks to become a popular item for the iSub line.

 

[Vinnybagodoughnuts]

Sorry Stegle.I am confused myself.lol Yes its the IsubG.After the glass broke I thought maybe the top oring/seal is crushed so I try to remove the one thats in there.Big mistake.All I managed to do is mangle it.I then looked at the replacement that came with the tank and realise it doesn't look like the one thats in there.I tried everything from tooth picks to screwdrivers to get the one thats in there out but in my zeal I think I might have bent the area around the chimney a bit. I am done screwing with this thing. Luckily the place I bought it is going to send me a coupon for my inconvenience (smokecityca). I also want to make sure that everyone knows that there are 2 versions of this tank.One has a longer glass then the other.The old version has a 23mm glass and the new version has a 28mm glass.Theses tanks are not differentiated by any names or numbers but the old version has the longer chimney that sticks up past the glass. These companies are an absolute train wreck imo.

 

[Jim_ MDP]

I'll have to have another look at the vid as I thought the L-bend action looked straightforward.

But this...

The design doesn't allow you the convenience of putting it in an ohm meter or a mod to rebuild. Finger hold on this tiny thing can get frustrating, at least for me.

As far as I know... the iSub have the only, the only, coil heads that incorporate the 510 connection.
This bodes extremely well for TC connectivity, which is why I've been waiting for the RBA.
(and, I have a soft spot for my iSubs... my earliest sub-ohm tanks. )

You don't need the bottom cap to screw the coil into any 510, be it meter or mod.

 

[Stegle]

I'll have to have another look at the vid as I thought the L-bend action looked straightforward.

But this...



As far as I know... the iSub have the only, the only, coil heads that incorporate the 510 connection.
This bodes extremely well for TC connectivity, which is why I've been waiting for the RBA.
(and, I have a soft spot for my iSubs... my earliest sub-ohm tanks. )

You don't need the bottom cap to screw the coil into any 510, be it meter or mod.

Don't get me wrong as far as the whole iSub line as I love them!
It's just this rba design is going to have to be reworked in its design before it will gain much popularity. The one I got right works great and since it's my own coil is a plus.
I wanted to love it but I can't, it's true the 510 connection is great for TC application and not having to have a separate base to test your build.
Innokin has proven in their line that they don't just throw out a new product every week like a few others do and I respect that. They really missed the goal on this rba though.
I think most people will give up on it and just go back to re-wicking the stock heads as it is simple and it works to get a long life out of every horizontal head.

I'm sure we are going to see a revision on this, and I will be trying it when they do.

 

[Jim_ MDP]

A lot of words (if wicking is horrific, I guess it'd be as bad as my pitiful attempts at the Crown RBA) but you failed to really address the comment of yours I questioned.
Here, I'll quote it again...

The design doesn't allow you the convenience of putting it in an ohm meter or a mod to rebuild. Finger hold on this tiny thing can get frustrating, at least for me.

 

[Stegle]

I'd heard about the version that the center tube sticks out past the top of the glass. I'm glad I didn't get that version sent to me. I really like my G version. I'm expecting an S tank any day now, and next will be the Black Apex 5ml.
I love the hobby aspect of vaping, something you really can't do with a cigarette. I never heard of a smoke meet to go see and try out all the new cigarettes as a community! Lol

Sorry Stegle.I am confused myself.lol Yes its the IsubG.After the glass broke I thought maybe the top oring/seal is crushed so I try to remove the one thats in there.Big mistake.All I managed to do is mangle it.I then looked at the replacement that came with the tank and realise it doesn't look like the one thats in there.I tried everything from tooth picks to screwdrivers to get the one thats in there out but in my zeal I think I might have bent the area around the chimney a bit. I am done screwing with this thing. Luckily the place I bought it is going to send me a coupon for my inconvenience (smokecityca). I also want to make sure that everyone knows that there are 2 versions of this tank.One has a longer glass then the other.The old version has a 23mm glass and the new version has a 28mm glass.Theses tanks are not differentiated by any names or numbers but the old version has the longer chimney that sticks up past the glass. These companies are an absolute train wreck imo.

 

[Vinnybagodoughnuts]

Watch the video again Jim.The first lead goes straight down through the bottom of the rba ending up underneath the oring.The second bent lead is already a big enough pita.I would hate to try it with a base or mod in the way.You must apply downward pressure on the leads to tighten them.This keeps the leads straight inside the rba so they dont touch the sidewalls.Also in the video his recomendation of placing the longer lead in the slotted hole"bent one" is the opposite of what the "manual" states(great English though.)lol
I too really liked this tank but if a company can't even produce an accurate manual on how to correctly service it we then become beta testers.I have no problem with that; but we are actually paying them to do it.That I have a problem with.I am going to stick with purchasing last years next great thing once you consumers have worked all the bugs out of them.

 

[whodat2112]

I was gonna order one but it looks so tiny and a PITA to fool with, so I ordered some more .5 ohm and some clapton .5 ohm coils. (Haven't tried the clapton's yet)

 

[whodat2112]

I just inserted my first .5 ohm clapton coil in my Isub G tank, and the flavor is much better than the standard .5 ohm coil.
However because it requires more watts, it makes the vapor warmer.
I am trying to find my "sweet spot".
Literally just got them in the mail 10 minutes ago.

 

[whodat2112]

Okay, now that the coil has "broken in"....it's not a hotter vape, just a more flavorful one.
I am at 45 watts and it's delicious.

 

[Jim_ MDP]

I suppose I should grab a pack of Claptons as well as I've never used them.

But I still think I'll pick up an RBA to try.
The APEX doesn't interest me, but the Top-Fill S does.
Hell, I've had a G since the beginning... and never used it, just the 3 PCs.

I figure I'm overdue something new to make me break it out of storage.

 

[Stegle]

I've only vaped on one Clapton so far. I agree the flavor is more intense but the ramp up is too slow, so you have to go up to 40 and above watts which gets too warm for me.
You can't re wick those either like the regular .5 ohm horizontals.

Jim, I stated you can't rebuild the rba on a mod or meter, which like Vinny pointed out you can but you have to pull downward pretty hard to get the L bent lead in place. It's way to hard of a pull to risk breaking something, either your mod or meter.
Good luck to all who decide to play with the rba, I'm going on day three now with a build that has only leaked a couple drops on the second day.

 

[Jim_ MDP]

Jim, I stated you can't rebuild the rba on a mod or meter, which like Vinny pointed out you can but you have to pull downward pretty hard to get the L bent lead in place. It's way to hard of a pull to risk breaking something, either your mod or meter.

Oh... now I think I get it. I'm slow sometimes.

Going by that single vid... you need to get a plier on the lead, apply tension, and then bend it into the L channel. That would be much more difficult, if not down right annoying, with it mounted.

That about right?

 

[Vinnybagodoughnuts]

There's just no room. It's the straight lead that is the real problem with it mounted. Look where it comes out.☺