I just got my Ato-Miser 4 hours ago. I work 2nd shift. I think this is a fantastic, must have mod. I was able to make a 2 Ohm atomizer which was what I was shooting for on my 1st try using the 2 Ohm wires. I have been vaping on it non-stop. It is better than the LR BE112 I was using in terms of vapor and flavor. The metallic taste pretty much faded away after about 1 hour of vaping. The Ato-Miser has not leaked yet and the draw on it is perfect. I am using it with my Protege V1 since I only have 3.2V batteries for my V3. I wanted to make a 3.5 Ohm atomiser but the 3 OHM wires kept breaking right at the point that the thinner part of the wire meets the thicker part on the side of the wire that has the longest thicker part. Luckly the 2 Ohm wires are a little more solid. The wires are the only issue I have had. Seven 3 Ohm wires broke so I gave up on them. Drew if you could come up with some better wires that don't break the Ato-Miser would be PERFECT! I regret not buying 2!! I can't wait to buy one of those Darwins. The Ato-Miser and Darwin are going to be a match made in heaven. Thanks Drew!!
Introducing the Ato-Miser rebuildable Atomizer for that little Miser in all of us!!!!!
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I wondered about blue foam on this puppy. Would you mind posting a few pics?
Im curios how that is working? Let us know how you make out with this please...Thanks
Drew
Thanks Matt...I actually got 3000 of those wires and there were some that were kinked(if i had to estimate 50 or so?) and I didnt realize that they would break because of the kink...Im sorry that happened, but if you send me an email with your order number I will send you replacement wires...
I also got some more wires yesterday that I have not had a chance to put up yet that are 3.8 to 4.0 Ohms, and some more 3.0 ohms that are measuring closer to 2.8 ohms with my meter...
Another solution is if you can see a kink by the end , try and attach the wire first at that end beyond the kink....Not sure if that makes sense but hope it does.
Thanks,
Drew
received mine this morning, works as promised. The only issue I have is that the draw is too tight for my liking. Widened both holes using a 1/32 bit in my dremel press, and widened just one to 3/64, which is more tolerable, but still a little tight.
Increasing air leads to an exponential increase in vapor production, something I discovered while making atty's at work last week (via home-made ato-miser/a2 clone).
I bought this mainly to use as a solid base for atomizer experimentation. I have some kanthal and glasfibre I ordered from bulli, and am looking for a source for the stainless steel 400 mesh to build a genesis out of it.
Drew, Ever think about incorporating an adjustable air hole? could be accomplished by a very small bleed screw.
Increasing air leads to an exponential increase in vapor production, something I discovered while making atty's at work last week (via home-made ato-miser/a2 clone).
I bought this mainly to use as a solid base for atomizer experimentation. I have some kanthal and glasfibre I ordered from bulli, and am looking for a source for the stainless steel 400 mesh to build a genesis out of it.
Drew, Ever think about incorporating an adjustable air hole? could be accomplished by a very small bleed screw.
I was placing the bf in the ends of the wicks (in the loops), 1 long bf tube like (no hole) from end to end of the loops of the wick, and after placed , don't cut or cut it in the center so that there is space when the mouth piece covers , it will push it up to the center... both style tested.
at first I was using it for a sponge effect more than hold the juice.... it works to minimize flooding, but not by much.
it's so so, pita to place in,
if you double wrap the wick, it fits easier, but it also sometimes blocks the 2 side vents, depending how big you outfitted the bf in the loop of the wick, as you put on the mouth piece, it pushes it up to where you inhale ... sometimes if it's too big, it blocks the draw.
i wont post pictures as the idea fails outright LOL... even to minimize the juice floods.
So far test 2 wicks wrapped, or just 1 wick wrapped 3x times.
Wicking 3x seems to be easier than placing the bf in the loops LOL .
PS. when are your wicks gonna be online , hahaha. I'm running out
was tested with your 3ohm, and kanthall wire (.20mm)
Yes I did and had one in a prototype that didnt work so well, which fed the air from the bottom...We also played with several air hole sizes and found that this one was the best...We seemed to get less vapor and a harsher tatse with larger holes...However something that I have since discovered is that the wick can cover the holes in some cases and it requires a slight adjustment sometimes... I actually learned this from one of the people that have been using it...
In fact I had one that I had built, that just didnt seem to hit well and was measuring identically to another I had made and couldnt understand why...I backed off the cover a a half turn and it made a world of difference.
The thing that really surprised me is the difference in the overall performance with that little adjustment... Give it a try and let us know...
Im also curious how the Kanthal is working out for you. Thanks
Drew
I was placing the bf in the ends of the wicks (in the loops), 1 long bf tube like (no hole) from end to end of the loops of the wick, and after placed , don't cut or cut it in the center so that there is space when the mouth piece covers , it will push it up to the center... both style tested.
at first I was using it for a sponge effect more than hold the juice.... it works to minimize flooding, but not by much.
it's so so, pita to place in,
if you double wrap the wick, it fits easier, but it also sometimes blocks the 2 side vents, depending how big you outfitted the bf in the loop of the wick, as you put on the mouth piece, it pushes it up to where you inhale ... sometimes if it's too big, it blocks the draw.
i wont post pictures as the idea fails outright LOL... even to minimize the juice floods.
So far test 2 wicks wrapped, or just 1 wick wrapped 3x times.
Wicking 3x seems to be easier than placing the bf in the loops LOL .
PS. when are your wicks gonna be online , hahaha. I'm running out
was tested with your 3ohm, and kanthall wire (.20mm)
Thanks for the info...I got some wicking in today and have to decided to boil it now so it should be tommorow or Saturday I will have some up on the site...Ive been boiling and ringing it out all day...I boiled some the other day and it seemed to diminish the break in a little so I figured I would boil all of it from now on as it definately isnt going to hurt it...
I have some Kanthal and havent really had great results with it but I am thinking I might be missing a trick with it or something?
The first one I made from it worked GREAT (although the burnoff seemed a little longer than the prefabbed wires, but I havent been able to duplicate that one... Thanks again.
Drew
Not really sure about the kanthal, I usually pre torch it a couple of times. I do the same with your prefab nichromes as well.
Wicks and coils now on the iste in 2 to 3ish and 4 Ohms
ATo-Miser Xtra Wicks and Wires
ATo-Miser Xtra Wicks and Wires
Awesome. I was hoping you would do this.
And at less than $0.19 an atty! Fantastic price. I'll definitely be picking some up soon.
i wonder whether this could be used like the head of a Genesis atty, by using a short roll of mesh instead of wick, and kanthal instead of nichrome...i haven't read their threads, i know some electronics is probably needed...have you seen it yet? any thoughts?
thx,
thx,
i would certainly think this is possible, the ato-miser is basically just a machined 510 DIY platform, good for those that don't have access to a machine shop.
There are 2 terminals, you'd simply connect one end of the kanthal to one terminal, and the other end to the remaining terminal. Orient the kanthal/mesh so it doesn't come in to contact with the base or terminals, and you'd be set.
No electronics experience needed, you're just connecting a wire between 2 screws.
Ive done it with kanthal wires .16 , .20 , but never bothered to put the ss mesh on it, the wicks supplied with it absorbs plenty enough where as the mesh style with the genesis its auto fed. Or if you did it, maybe could use a top feeder plugin to have it auto drip, because once that ss mesh is dry, welcome to burned vape... with the genesis style the mesh wick is alway wet.
What I did to get rid of the "off" taste...
Stick everything (wires, atty base, wicking, etc... but not the plastic cover) into a coffee cup. Boil some water, and dump it into the cup, covering everything. Let it sit for five minutes. Then take everything out and let it all dry.
Presto. No more "off" taste.
Mine works exceptionally well, with the exception of the airflow on the draw, which can be easily fixed by widening the air hole a little bit. I just need to get some higher ohm wires so I can make some that are out of the LR range.
Stick everything (wires, atty base, wicking, etc... but not the plastic cover) into a coffee cup. Boil some water, and dump it into the cup, covering everything. Let it sit for five minutes. Then take everything out and let it all dry.
Presto. No more "off" taste.
Mine works exceptionally well, with the exception of the airflow on the draw, which can be easily fixed by widening the air hole a little bit. I just need to get some higher ohm wires so I can make some that are out of the LR range.
If you make sure that the holes are not lined up with the wicking I think you will find that the holes are the perfect size for air flow...I wouldnt really reccomend widening the holes because you can end up with too much air.
Drew
Drew
I just made a 4 Ohm and this thing is rockin the house with a small wick...Air flow seems a little airy but with 6 volts its perfect...
Drew
Drew
Not a sound from the guy that is working on it actually...I will post as soon as I do hear though....Thanks
Drew
Drew
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