iTaste MVP v2 Owners Group
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That is a very similar pack to the one I posted, and a better price, too, even with shipping added!
Tried some "Double Sided Adhesive Foam" (left the top paper on it) => it "raised" the button but was somewhat hard.
Removed it.
Tried a piece of "Dr. Scholl's Callous Pad" => it "raised" the button and was soft.
It's one way to get the closets cleaned out.
10 years ago my house was totally burned to the ground (during a burglary by some youngsters).
I found the ratio was about 1:9...for every 1 item that was personal/priceless I lost 9 items that were replaceable and/or junk.
Make sure when it gets that low that you give it time to fully charge to at least 4.1-4.2 volts , sounds like you are running it low and attempting to use it when it's essentially drained , give it a looooong recharge.
Unfortunately our local grocery store is about the size of the produce section of a supermarket. I rely on the great mall in the sky (Amazon) for 99% of my shopping, including a lot of my non-perishable groceries. However, I do love where I live, just not a good location for in person shopping.
I have both arthritis and nerve damage, so the button is a major issue. Compared to the VV v3 it is literally a real pain. The nearest Walmart and craft stores are 70+ miles away, so see above about my shopping.I have some craft foam in my cart for the next order.
Sorry to hear that , you can also just use something like the 3M Companies silicone bumper stick ons for protecting glass tables or for the bottom of the legs on a chair , they come in round, square etc....
Oop's , sounds like the bumpers were mentioned already.
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I just got the shipping notice e-mail from Vapor Engine saying my MVP 2 is on the way!
My MVP has been absolutely perfect - until now, that is. Not sure if this is a common problem or if there is a fix...
I'm using an iClear X.1 that has 2.1 ohm coils. I normally use variable wattage and set it at 8.0. I've burned through two coils today.
I've noticed when I check my resistance, initially it reads 2.1 ohms. The resistance reading drops from time to time, getting as low as 1.6 ohms within the first twenty hits on the vape.
Supposing it is set on vw, 8.0 should still be good but for some reason it is just burning the coil up. I suspect there's something wrong internally. Is there any way to troubleshoot & fix or reset or recalibrate or do I need to get a new one?
I'm using an iClear X.1 that has 2.1 ohm coils. I normally use variable wattage and set it at 8.0. I've burned through two coils today.
I've noticed when I check my resistance, initially it reads 2.1 ohms. The resistance reading drops from time to time, getting as low as 1.6 ohms within the first twenty hits on the vape.
Supposing it is set on vw, 8.0 should still be good but for some reason it is just burning the coil up. I suspect there's something wrong internally. Is there any way to troubleshoot & fix or reset or recalibrate or do I need to get a new one?
- Dec 18, 2013
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Try turning the device off, turning it back on and then plug it in to the charger. Try the fire button and then the try off and on again. Then leave it on the charger til fully charged. (Green lite goes out) I had a charging glitch and cycling it through finally got it back on track. Seems to happen when it detects an overload or short.
But it sounds more like bad coils to me. On the other hand if your juice is really thick and gunking up the coils that may give you the same problem.
If the juice was gunk in up the coils wouldn't that raise the resistance? I would think that if the resistance of the coil is dropping than you've got bad coils. What brand are they? Are they genuine brand coils or knock offs? Did you build them yourself? It sounds like your coils are having a small short which is causing a drop in resistance.
Yeah, that sounds like about the correct ratio. Our house wasn't burned to the ground, just a big hole in the roof and enough smoke and water damage that the insurance company "totaled" it. We took the money and have been cleaning our stuff ourselves, and replacing things like upholstered furniture. What is amusing is just how much stuff we have been able to do without while cleaning things up and moving them. But junk drawer contents are really missed during the process. and it is hard to decide how much of the hardware, parts and pieces are worth cleaning and moving.
The fire fighters were kind enough to grab most of my vaping stuff when they got my prescriptions. And I converted one of them while we were sitting in the ambulance warming up (-30 that day) and getting our carbon monoxide levels checked. My CO level was perfect after only two months vaping, his were very high, but within the normal range for a smoker.
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- Dec 18, 2013
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Mebbe the mvp3 will be spring loaded. Seems like it's the new thing. The Tesla is spring loaded.
Well...It is happening. My Kayfun is stripping the inner 510 threads of my MVP
I am ordering a 510/Ego adapter from Mad vapes as I have been using the circuit board spacer and there are still "Some" threading left. Not sure what to do if it is completely stripped though.
Does anyone know if it can be replaced?
Hoping the adapter fixes it, only had my MVP for 3 months and Kayfun for 2. Although I have dropped it a few times and that was probably the start of the striping, too much pressure from such a heavy tank and falling ON the tank a couple times. If I have to get another MVP, so be it, I will do just that.
You can use an airflow control adapter:
Just leave it on the MVP all the time. Lotta people use them with devices with funky threading.
They are available at most e-cig sites.
Just tried this. The problem did not resolve itself.
I also thought it was a bad batch of coils. However, I used coils from two separate vendors (both Innokin brand). This problem has occurred with both coil sets.
You can use an airflow control adapter:
Just leave it on the MVP all the time. Lotta people use them with devices with funky threading.
They are available at most e-cig sites.
Thanx jwb, I ordered an ego/ 510 adapter yesterday. I'm using my seldom used VV V3 and very glad I have it. Have a Mech as well so I should be fine till it gets here.
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My $3 china ego has a spring loaded pin. Been around forever. Innokin could make it float a little better so when it gets over driven it will bounce back better but you can tell it moves around by the way we can lift them up and even out of the 510 well. So that is a spring like connector in there. It just needs to float back up better.
What I have concluded for some time is that the majority of the problem is the fact that the ego threads are to long. It allows the device to go to low and it over drives the pin that now stays there. When you put a different topper on that isn't as deep or even just catch the threads a little differently so it doesn't go down quite as far it wont make contact. These deep ego threads are also why my Kanger T2's (and some others) can't breathe on the MVP and VV, the threads are so deep that they block the air holes.
I use primarily ego threaded devices and I have learned to just use an ego/510 all the time so I don't know about the depth of the 510 threads but my suspicion is they are just that extra little bit to long as well.
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