K100 Mechanical Mod Users Reply Here :)

[Tanzt]

After doing a bit of poking check to be sure which version Efest batteries you buy. The V1's and red ones seem to have a lower C rating. Hadn't really looked into them as much before. I know that the AW IMRs are one of the best you can buy, and although expensive they are worth it. For me, the added safety of knowing my battery can discharge upwards of 15-20A means nothing over a few extra dollars. I personally would rather run cheap cloned mods and a high quality battery than have one vent or worse under load.

Others would be the Sony 30A(green), Samsung 20R's (blue), Panasonic CGRs (grey). All good batteries. Some can be had for a fair price, if you can find them.

 

[serenity21899]

I bought mine separately (not a kit) and have had for a few days now. No complaints whatsoever. I threw in my Evolv Kick and threw a carto tank on top for now. I have not tried this yet with an RBA.

As I have a large supply of good batteries and a good charger, I never purchase anything in a kit. To me, it is just a waste of money if I am not going to use the kit's batteries or charger. And whatever else is include I usually do not need, either.

 

[djslik]

Yes based on the way the K100 was designed it will fire if over tightened. Compared to other designs I find this as a negative against the K100 design, other designs have a stop ring or battery stop that prevents the switch from contacting the pin. Since there are exhaust/vent holes in the switch you cannot place a ring spacer in there as it will block the air holes.

Also I ordered the Sky Blue/Teal K100, not K101 and I guess the unit is more of a flat metallic than a polished. I like my friends gold K100 since it is more of a polished finish. I'm actually going to use 2000 grit sand paper and polish the body to see if that helps.

After having more time with K100 my pros/cons are:

PROS
1. Cost under $25
2. Solid material
3. Compact in 18350 mode
4. Reverse thread lock ring
5. Air flow holes top connector (better for tank systems)
6. Pretty color schemes
7. Brass firing pin
8. Hits as hard as my all brass M16, haven't taken the time to perform voltage drop tests, so this is merely observation
9. Has ego threads
10. Simple body design that lends itself to be sanded down easily (can be placed in chuck and sanded easily due to no odd shapes or edges)

CONS
1. Hard to clean around the 510/Ego connections
2. Top cap hard to remove
3. Extension tube wobbles in 18650 mode
4. Can fire if overtightened
5. Don't really like the spring/washer design too easy to lose components
6. Disassembly of firing pin more difficult requiring snap ring pliers

 

[SunRam]

Anyone with the K100 had a overheated battery yet? I'm using Panasonic cgr18650ch batts, and one overheated the other day, really heating up very quickly, I subsequently chucked that battery. Anyway, I read in another thread, due to the panny being uninsulated at the negative end, the body of the mod can make contact with the uninsulated negative end, causing a continuous fire, therefore heating the battery up.

The suggestion was made that one should insert these Panasonic batts wrong way round in mech mods, with the pos end facing down, to avoid this issue.

So, is this the way to go?

 

[GratefulVaper]

I too just received my k100! Busy work week ahead so it'll be Fri before I can really play with my igo w and aga t2... meanwhile. .. the cartos that came with my "kit" (from Zainy.net, NOT FT) Have a distinct extra flavor (filler??) REALLY hoping it's just low quality ones with the kit. .. My lady is going to a local B&M today to pick me up (smok or boge) a good one so I can find out. These are my first Cartos, as I started with clearos. I Hope the name brands do not have that flavor as I was looking forward to a carto tank. .. Updates to come on my carto adventure and of course my rba and rda... wish me luck!

 

[GratefulVaper]

How many of us does there need to be to get a kamry sub forum???

 

[djslik]

Is the tube made of brass or copper?

 

[mbonanni]

Is that rusted?

 

[djslik]

Haha no I sanded it down because I wasn't feeling the chrome look of the tube. I was sanding down my other mod so I decided to chuck the K100 in and see if I could give it a brushed look, after a couple of passes I could see the pink color coming through.

 

[mbonanni]

that looks pretty cool. I think the treated metal (aurora) finish would look absolutely sick on a mod

 

[mbonanni]

Just ordered an AW IMR 18640 2000 mah batt along with two diff liquids ($1 each for 5ml) and two "low resistance" carto.

Hopefully my fasstech order will get here before the weekend, and this order as well so I can give it a try to see how i like it.

Where is the best/cheapest place to buy liquid, wick, and kenthal wire? Or at least your guys' reccomendation.

 

[djslik]

Cotton wicks (my preference) I buy the Peaches and Cream ECRU colored cotton yarn at Wal-Mart under $5 bucks for long roll.

Nichrome wire (my preference) you can buy for cheap at Jacobs Jacobs Online Nichrome & Rene 41 Wire

Liquid well everyone has there places. You're in SD should be tons of local vape shops that have in house juice at reasonable prices.

 

[zipflint]

I'll chime in here with another, different recommendation:

I REALLY dig ekowool. The solid kind. 1.5mm, because it soaks up juice good and gets a bit bigger. I've just started messing with cotton/hemp wick and so far I'm having very little luck with it. But, there's a learning curve with everything.

I also like hollow ekowool. Usually it's labeled XS-18 or XS-16. I get it from kidneypuncher.com but if anyone knows a cheaper source I'd like to know what it is. I use it as a "hat" or "sock" on the top of SS mesh or cable wicks in genesis attys.

And I prefer kanthal over nichrome wire. 30 or 32 gauge for drippers and 28 gauge for genesis attys. I've also just started messing around with flat/ribbon kanthal and it's a bit tricky. So far I don't see a huge benefit to it but again, learning curve. The increase in contact surface area should be a good thing, once I get the hang of using it. I find it difficult to trap in the positive and negative posts, be it screws or springs.

So....there's some suggestions. Hope that helps and doesn't confuse.

 

[mbonanni]

Shiitt, I was hoping my mod woyld get here before the weekend, but fasttech isn't so fast at their shipping. Ordered last tuesday and its still in the acceptsnce stage. Owell, I guess I can wait another week.

 

[CrimsonJack]

I'm about to order a K100, probably going with the 18350's for the smaller form factor. I know it should work with either button or flat top, but is there a difference in performance? Will both button and flat top work when I eventually get a kick for this?

 

[mbonanni]

Got an AW Imr a few juices and cartos from pure vape. Haven't gotten my fasstech order which has my k100 )':

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

 

[tA71ana]

I got a K100 in Red and I love it ^_^
However I noticed that my fire button gets a little warm
When I load a batt into it I screw it down until I hear it fire, then unscrew it back until it stops firing and then a little bit after that so the throw isn't so short that it will fire accidentally.
This is my first mech, so I am still learning about the idiosyncrasies of mechanicals.
Just some info:
I am using a Smoktech kick clone set at 8.0w.
I am using 18350 and 18500 Efest batts and am running Kanger carts rated at between 2.0 and 2.5 ohms.
I know for sure each vape I take is less than 10 seconds (was trained well with eGos, lol)
Is this normal or is there something I should be looking for/at...everything looks intact..the plastic ring in the button end is there, etc.
When I take the batt out its a bit warm, but not as warm as the fire button *shrugs*
Any info would be most appreciated

 

[tA71ana]

Forgot to add:
I did dismount the kick and take a look at it and it looks good

 

[lvm111]

This multimeter is only $10.71 and has a 2 volts setting rather than just a 20 as the one from HFT. I just ordered one yesterday.

Equus 3300 Hands-free Digital Multimeter : Amazon.com : Automotive

best regards, larrymac

 

[jiveman]

I got a K100 in Red and I love it ^_^
However I noticed that my fire button gets a little warm
When I load a batt into it I screw it down until I hear it fire, then unscrew it back until it stops firing and then a little bit after that so the throw isn't so short that it will fire accidentally.
This is my first mech, so I am still learning about the idiosyncrasies of mechanicals.
Just some info:
I am using a Smoktech kick clone set at 8.0w.
I am using 18350 and 18500 Efest batts and am running Kanger carts rated at between 2.0 and 2.5 ohms.
I know for sure each vape I take is less than 10 seconds (was trained well with eGos, lol)
Is this normal or is there something I should be looking for/at...everything looks intact..the plastic ring in the button end is there, etc.
When I take the batt out its a bit warm, but not as warm as the fire button *shrugs*
Any info would be most appreciated

your battery and kick in the right way? positive side of battery facing up toward the topcap, control portion of kick facing up toward the top cap.

"When I load a batt into it I screw it down until I hear it fire, then unscrew it back until it stops firing and then a little bit after that so the throw isn't so short that it will fire accidentally."

what do you mean screw it down until you hear it fire? it shouldn't be firing unless you hit the trigger. maybe try putting it into the locked position before you telescope it down to fit.
otherwise maybe make sure your spring isn't too tight and stretch it a bit or as the other poster said, get a multimeter and check the ohms of your attys and voltage output of battery.