- Status
loft - I am going to try the magnets also .... you just take out the spring and muscle them in, yeah?
I'd be afraid of not using adhesive just in case the magnets slap together when not in use, completing the circuit and killing your coil, etc.
lorderos, but to put them back together to get the screw in, it's gonna be some repulsion, right?
loft - they will always repel, I don't think the 2 sides would ever slap together.
loft - they will always repel, I don't think the 2 sides would ever slap together.
So guys I'm thinking about trying 400 mesh. How well would it wick with 70/30 pg/vg?
To remove the tank: (Recommended to do with battery tube attached for gripping surface but remove battery)
1. Drain juice
2. Remove electrode screws and washers
3. Reattach vapor chamber top
4. Pull like a .... until vapor chamber is removed
5. Pull off tank tube
To replace:
1. Lube both ends of tank tube with juice
2. Slide tank over bottom section
3. Remove vapor chamber cap, line up electrodes with ptfe insert holes, press in to tank
4. Replace electrode washers/screws and vapor chamber top.
I wouldn't go much farther than that. I don't know about first gen, but v2 & v3 have a spring assembly for the positive electrode that can and probably will snap if toyed with.
Loft's method is correct for removing/replacing the tank.
You have a v1 Katana, so opening up the connector under the tank is easy. Just pull out the cap be the screw, it will come out. Remember though, when you py it back, the plastic will be slightly looser in it's opening. You will be surprised at how simple it is in there.
Putting it back together is as simple as pushing the plastic with the screw and nut assembled back where it came from.
Unless there is something wrong, I do not recommend disassembly of that part though. You could possibly end up with a situation where the connection to the positive electrode is not as good as it should be and therefore less power to the coil. It should be OK, but there is always that possibility.
I have taken my tank off twice now, and it wasn't too hard.
Yup, not too bad at all, just wiggle the top a little as you pull and it comes right off. It's the going back on that gets most people. The o-rings like to walk a little sometimes and so even though it seals, it looks bad. This is why I am sending new o-rings with all the tanks in the co-op
One thing that you did not mention that lorderos33 mentioned was to insert the battery when you are reassembling. I think this is to apply pressure on the screw beneath the tank.
RodeoGeorge
Just to add on, When u have the battery in the tube when u push the cap back on you might get a protruding Positive electrode. Place ur washer and screws back on the tube.. remove the battery and push the electrode with ur screwdriver down till the washer is flushed with the teflon part. This will most likely solve ur rattling 18650 batt issues.
Protruding positive electrodes will always happen when u squeeze in your 18350 batts to get a nice fit. the V3s seems to be off on the 18350 tube measurement.. a tad too short and it forces the positive connection upwards.
Any hints on getting less of a heavy throat/chest hit would be greatly appreciated. 1.5mm air and fill hole, 11mg 65pg/35vg (usually use 18mg) no hot spots, 400 seasoned wick not touching posts or tank base. air hole aligned "Y" format.
- Status
Similar threads
