This thread and the Prime seems to get no love on the forum I have the sxk version. I think this rta deserves much more praise as I find it to produce the best throat hit of all the rta's I own. If you use it on one of the lower air flow setting it can come closer to approximating the experience of cigarette smoking that anything else I have (and I have a lot). I also find no negatives. I think this rta deserves much more attention. I am only using 5mg juice and the throat hit is really strong.
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As I wrote on the first page I bought a ....ty Prime clone that is just crap and it´s been banned to the "fail box". I think I´m not willing to take the risk and buy another Prime clone.
I think the doggy is the FAR better atomizer, same or better TH and flavor.
I think the doggy is the FAR better atomizer, same or better TH and flavor.
I have both the sxk and the sjmy Doggy and I agree the flavor is equal to the Prime. I do not agree about the throat hit. I think the Prime excels in that category. You just had a bad experience.
37 days with the Ulton KF Prime and still no complaints or problems.
€120 for a tank? not.
After disassembling, cleaning, changing the O rings and reassembling my recently arrived SXK, I'm good
In the beginning, when I tried it after a quick wash in dishwater, It was almost impossible to draw, but now it's working as expected
I'm not having much luck in general rta forum so I hope you KF Prime clone owners can tell me more. I'm going crazy.
I have Eyotech clone and first few builds were great. But after a few weeks i get constant gurgling and then leaking. I don't think it's o rings (changed them anyway) because I get leak every time, even with juice control closed! I think my Prime just can't close the juice control completely and i think it is supposed to be closed by perfect match of the flat base with holes on the bell, not by any o ring?
If I put more wick and fill the tank only 1/3, then leave the juice control closed there is a very little gurgle and no leak but i can vape all juice that way! With juice control closed! Also wick seems oversaturated this way, flavor even too heavy.
Also, if I close airflow with my finger and blow (flow control still closed) I get air into my tank (bubbles go up) and I can feel some air going out below top cap. I don't expect tank to hold in too high pressure, but blowing is not too hard I think.
I have Eyotech clone and first few builds were great. But after a few weeks i get constant gurgling and then leaking. I don't think it's o rings (changed them anyway) because I get leak every time, even with juice control closed! I think my Prime just can't close the juice control completely and i think it is supposed to be closed by perfect match of the flat base with holes on the bell, not by any o ring?
If I put more wick and fill the tank only 1/3, then leave the juice control closed there is a very little gurgle and no leak but i can vape all juice that way! With juice control closed! Also wick seems oversaturated this way, flavor even too heavy.
Also, if I close airflow with my finger and blow (flow control still closed) I get air into my tank (bubbles go up) and I can feel some air going out below top cap. I don't expect tank to hold in too high pressure, but blowing is not too hard I think.
You can vape all the juice out of the tank with the JFC closed?
Instead of getting a burnt wick due to the JFC being closed you have one that is over saturated?
Am I understanding you correctly?
You should end up with a dry wick with JFC closed, not a saturated wick.
Quadruple check your O-rings.
While you have it apart, try screwing the JFC (evaporator chamber) open and closed and take a closer look how it functions.
I have a LieFeng Prime benched because it started leaking... again, I believe it is due to the top cap O-ring, but the Ulton is working great and like you the O-ring issues were driving me crazy.
VapeMango, yes... I smoked half of the tank with JFC closed.
I disasembled all and reached my conclusion that machining is wrong, not o rings. I'm just looking for confirmation: does JFC close by metal sitting tightly on metal? Or by some o-ring (i dont see how)?
The way I see it, if JFC is closed, it should not leak (through airflow) even with no o rings and no wick at all. If that's true, I'm not going to waste my time further.
I disasembled all and reached my conclusion that machining is wrong, not o rings. I'm just looking for confirmation: does JFC close by metal sitting tightly on metal? Or by some o-ring (i dont see how)?
The way I see it, if JFC is closed, it should not leak (through airflow) even with no o rings and no wick at all. If that's true, I'm not going to waste my time further.
I can not be 100% sure myself. But... There is an O-ring on the base where the male threads end. Is it there to stop juice getting by the threads to the AF or is it to prevent any air leaking from the AF into the chamber when you draw , or both?
I am being cautious because I KNEW I had the right O-rings in the right place only to go back and switch them and have the problem go away (but then another problem creep in a couple weeks later with LieFeng).
With the JFC completely closed the JFC holes are flat against the base, specially on the inside. On the outside edge I can see a hair of a space and assume that is the threads.
You said it worked correctly at first.
Are you 100% sure the JFC was closed? A too fat O-ring can stop you from completely closing it. With the O-rings on and the glass off screw the JFC on and off a few times making sure the JFC holes are closing on the base and not hanging on the O-ring.
With the LieFeng the problem seems to be O-ring related. What I am not sure about is if it is poor O-rings, O-rings that go bad quickly or machining that causes O-rings to go bad, or was the water too hot I cleaned it in damaging the O-ring, or..... or.... or.... (I have no problems with my LieFeng V5, V5 is just too airy for me).
Since my Ulton Prime is working fine I have no motivation at the moment to give it another try. I have also only heard positive about Ulton.
The Ulton is good and comes with the extension kit.
SXK is good, I just don't like the idea of buying the extension kit separately. All the extension kits I've seen for the SXK also do not appear to be made by SXK, just indicate made for SXK Prime. I'm not comfortable with that. If I didn't want the extension kit, I'd try the SXK if I buy another one.
I am being cautious because I KNEW I had the right O-rings in the right place only to go back and switch them and have the problem go away (but then another problem creep in a couple weeks later with LieFeng).
With the JFC completely closed the JFC holes are flat against the base, specially on the inside. On the outside edge I can see a hair of a space and assume that is the threads.
You said it worked correctly at first.
Are you 100% sure the JFC was closed? A too fat O-ring can stop you from completely closing it. With the O-rings on and the glass off screw the JFC on and off a few times making sure the JFC holes are closing on the base and not hanging on the O-ring.
With the LieFeng the problem seems to be O-ring related. What I am not sure about is if it is poor O-rings, O-rings that go bad quickly or machining that causes O-rings to go bad, or was the water too hot I cleaned it in damaging the O-ring, or..... or.... or.... (I have no problems with my LieFeng V5, V5 is just too airy for me).
Since my Ulton Prime is working fine I have no motivation at the moment to give it another try. I have also only heard positive about Ulton.
The Ulton is good and comes with the extension kit.
SXK is good, I just don't like the idea of buying the extension kit separately. All the extension kits I've seen for the SXK also do not appear to be made by SXK, just indicate made for SXK Prime. I'm not comfortable with that. If I didn't want the extension kit, I'd try the SXK if I buy another one.
…. Or maybe not the SXK... lol
See this:
O Rings O Rings O Rings = No Leaking
Kayfun clones and poor O-rings is a can of worms. Even if you buy original Kayfun rings you can not be sure they match the tolerance of your specific clone.
There is a solution to varying sizes in the post if you live in the EU or UK, but you will also be buying a lot more O-rings then you'll ever use.
I've seen some others outside the UK, you end up buying a lot and it's even a bit more of a headache than in the EU.
I may roll the dice and try some original O-rings and get a V5 MTL AF reducer while I am at it from Creme de Vape - Formerly Cloud 9 Vaping electronic cigarettes and e-liquid, trying to find out how they declare them on the mailing/customs label before ordering.
For a $1 more (really less) these clone makers could provide quality O-Rings. They could also package up 2 sets of spares of the exact size for their versions of quality O-rings to be sold for $5, they would make a profit and their customers would be a LOT happier!!!
Are they stupid.... ? It doesn't make a lot of sense.
See this:
O Rings O Rings O Rings = No Leaking
Kayfun clones and poor O-rings is a can of worms. Even if you buy original Kayfun rings you can not be sure they match the tolerance of your specific clone.
There is a solution to varying sizes in the post if you live in the EU or UK, but you will also be buying a lot more O-rings then you'll ever use.
I've seen some others outside the UK, you end up buying a lot and it's even a bit more of a headache than in the EU.
I may roll the dice and try some original O-rings and get a V5 MTL AF reducer while I am at it from Creme de Vape - Formerly Cloud 9 Vaping electronic cigarettes and e-liquid, trying to find out how they declare them on the mailing/customs label before ordering.
For a $1 more (really less) these clone makers could provide quality O-Rings. They could also package up 2 sets of spares of the exact size for their versions of quality O-rings to be sold for $5, they would make a profit and their customers would be a LOT happier!!!
Are they stupid.... ? It doesn't make a lot of sense.
Original o rings arrive tomorrow. 2 more clones in a week or so. Ill compare but again, I'm perfectly aware of o rings solutions, they're all over forums. But I cannot stress enough that at this moment Im more interested in how JFC is closed on Prime. Looking at design I'd say metal on metal. I cant see any oring that plays a part there. Now, question is how tight? I dubt metal on metal needs to seal in 100%, it's not needed during vaping as top cap and orings create vacum. You need a small gap for juice to flow anyway. But it might create problems when filling if that gap is too large.
In case of my clone, I even removed bottom oring, tightly closed JFC and it doesnt look like tight close! If I cover my airflow and blow, I get air bubbles in the tank through juice holes. It doesnt require much hard blowing at all.
Also, with a bad top cap oring letting some air in, I can vape half of my tank with JFC fully closed.
So again, at the moment Im not trying to solve leaking problem, I'm just trying to confirm this clone has machining problem with bell (flow holes) not properly sitting on base, thus not sealing JFC completely.
I guess I'll have to wait other clones and compare.
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In case of my clone, I even removed bottom oring, tightly closed JFC and it doesnt look like tight close! If I cover my airflow and blow, I get air bubbles in the tank through juice holes. It doesnt require much hard blowing at all.
Also, with a bad top cap oring letting some air in, I can vape half of my tank with JFC fully closed.
So again, at the moment Im not trying to solve leaking problem, I'm just trying to confirm this clone has machining problem with bell (flow holes) not properly sitting on base, thus not sealing JFC completely.
I guess I'll have to wait other clones and compare.
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Well looking at the JFC holes when closed, yes they are flat against the base, I just see a hairs space on the outer edge where the base threads would be.
Speaking of clones, I see Berserker clones hit the market, different sellers ranging from $13.66 - $17.00. One on E-Bay actually says clone, others say 100% Authentic Berserker (but not VandyVape), saw one just outright lying, VandyVape Berserker $15.99, I don't think so.
I know I got some real good Nautilus clones for real cheap, but they stated it was a clone. Just don't like it when they lie.
Speaking of clones, I see Berserker clones hit the market, different sellers ranging from $13.66 - $17.00. One on E-Bay actually says clone, others say 100% Authentic Berserker (but not VandyVape), saw one just outright lying, VandyVape Berserker $15.99, I don't think so.
I know I got some real good Nautilus clones for real cheap, but they stated it was a clone. Just don't like it when they lie.
This is my solution to the problem of leakage when refilling:
I took off o-ring from the old t3s clearomizer
and removed the o-ring from the kayfun Prime (I'm not sure whether it's number 8 or 11,you can see in the picture).Drop the O-ring down so that the chamber lays on it when It is closed to the end.
No leaks, gurgling, works perfectly. Damn that the original is so expensive, this is a great atomizer.
I took off o-ring from the old t3s clearomizer
and removed the o-ring from the kayfun Prime (I'm not sure whether it's number 8 or 11,you can see in the picture).Drop the O-ring down so that the chamber lays on it when It is closed to the end.
No leaks, gurgling, works perfectly. Damn that the original is so expensive, this is a great atomizer.
Yes, I think. This confirms my thoughts. Your new ring seems to sit exactly where JFC is not sealed correctly! There is nothing you can do with existing rings if that seal is really bad. It is going to gurgle or leak when refilling.
Id like to hear from other clone or original owners how good this is sealed on their tanks. Its easy to test... Close JFC completely, cover airflow with your finger and blow. If the seal is bad, you will not need much blowing before bubbles start comming up into tank from those JFC holes.
I have an authentic and it's perfectly sealed when JFC is closed, it's not leaking even on the airplane. Completely headache free RTA, everything just works.
New here but found this thread interesting. I have 3 of the no logo SXK clones. 1 is a spare but two have been used daily for several months now. I haven't experienced any leaking and only very minor gurgling upon refilling, and then it's only occasionally. When it does occur it clears itself within just a few draws. My biggest complaint was the difficulty with opening the JFC, even with using some VG to lubricate the O-rings. Like others mentioned, the stock SXK O-ring #11 was a 1.5 x 6 (or 7) mm rather than the 1 x 8 mm specified in the Kayfun. This is the O-ring that makes the JFC so difficult to operate in the SXK.
I've replaced every O-ring in one of my clones and most in the other with the Kayfun specified sizes as shown in the break-down above. I used silicone O-rings. Both clones still work like champs. I think the gurgling may be less frequent after refilling than it was but it still does occur on occasion. But I think that I'm finding that it occurs close to when it's getting time to re-wick / re-coil. It doesn't seem to happen the first few times that I refill after a new wick. The biggest difference, however, may be how much easier the JFC is to operate with the 1 x 8 mm #11 O-ring.
I think that a lot of the reported problems are due mostly to wicking and maybe some due to stock O-rings. But I have no doubt that due to tolerances not being held as tight on the clones and tolerance stacking, compared to the Kayfun, that there are bound to be some units too far out of spec to work smoothly. Or maybe with imperfections within the O-ring grooves or contact surfaces that create problems with the O-rings sealing properly. That said, I would look at my wicking first and replacing O-rings before giving up and assuming a bad RTA. I cant compare these to the real deal but they really are a very nice RTA in their own right. I love mine. They are all I use now aside from my pod.
I've replaced every O-ring in one of my clones and most in the other with the Kayfun specified sizes as shown in the break-down above. I used silicone O-rings. Both clones still work like champs. I think the gurgling may be less frequent after refilling than it was but it still does occur on occasion. But I think that I'm finding that it occurs close to when it's getting time to re-wick / re-coil. It doesn't seem to happen the first few times that I refill after a new wick. The biggest difference, however, may be how much easier the JFC is to operate with the 1 x 8 mm #11 O-ring.
I think that a lot of the reported problems are due mostly to wicking and maybe some due to stock O-rings. But I have no doubt that due to tolerances not being held as tight on the clones and tolerance stacking, compared to the Kayfun, that there are bound to be some units too far out of spec to work smoothly. Or maybe with imperfections within the O-ring grooves or contact surfaces that create problems with the O-rings sealing properly. That said, I would look at my wicking first and replacing O-rings before giving up and assuming a bad RTA. I cant compare these to the real deal but they really are a very nice RTA in their own right. I love mine. They are all I use now aside from my pod.
Juat got my no logo sxk clone yesterday. I can confirm mine also works perfectly for now. Also, ring #11 is wrong but I left it to test (I do have otiginal SvoeMesto ones). However, my JFC is smooth, cannot complain.
What I did notice is the quality of orings. On many I can see imperfections. Its like they were created from molds and 2 peaces of mold didnt fiy perfectly, creating an edge on some. This is not visible on any of originals. This might explain why some SXKs work better and some worse.
I do miss that logo though. Its very difficult to know how much JFC is open without it
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What I did notice is the quality of orings. On many I can see imperfections. Its like they were created from molds and 2 peaces of mold didnt fiy perfectly, creating an edge on some. This is not visible on any of originals. This might explain why some SXKs work better and some worse.
I do miss that logo though. Its very difficult to know how much JFC is open without it
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Thats interesting regarding the o-rings. The stock o rings in my clones looked fine. There were no seams or flashing. I assume sxk is sourcing them from different makers or that some batches are just flawed. What i did notice is that when i pulled the #11 o-ring to replace it, it was flattened. I used the clones for several months before replacing the rings. Over that time period, obviously that oversized (1.5mm instead of 1mm) oring was under a good deal of compression. The jfc did loosen up over time as well as that oring compressed.
As far as gauging how open the jfc is, there are 6 juice feed holes. I usually open the jfc 1 full turn so i simply count 6 holes when i open it. Not a big deal really .
As far as gauging how open the jfc is, there are 6 juice feed holes. I usually open the jfc 1 full turn so i simply count 6 holes when i open it. Not a big deal really .
Are you saying that the o-rings will need to be replaced after several months?
Have you tried O-rings that are authentic? If so, how do they hold up?
My Ulton is still working fine after almost 3 months, but all the clones I've tried had O-rings that had "seams". Ulton, SXK, LieFeng, 3 manufactures, 5 clones.
I ordered some authentic O-rings from crème de vape, so I am curious if they last longer than just several months.
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