I have not ran in to this... but 4.4V would be an overcharged battery... I would try to bring the voltage back down by using the USB output on the bottom of the device... once it is back to showing 4.2 or less, give it a whirl.
MVP Owners Group-into the next generation
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I have not ran in to this... but 4.4V would be an overcharged battery... I would try to bring the voltage back down by using the USB output on the bottom of the device... once it is back to showing 4.2 or less, give it a whirl.
if you go dual coil with that exact build you will be at .8, which would hit pretty darn good on the Neme w/Magma........if you want to go single coil buy some 24/26 gauge kanthal or buy some Nichrome 80 both will have a lower resistance so you can do more wraps and still come out on the low end.
you'll get the hang of it, it just takes some hands on experience first....
my MVP is still going strong (9mos) and holding a good charge, guess i'm lucky for a change i musta got one that was made on wed after lunch time....i'm sorry to hear anyone having problems with theirs.
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It will all be so much better once you heal up though- shoulder stuff sucks.
Im 30 so it hasnt got to me yet, but I see a possible shoulder surgery in my future. Whenever I work out my shoulders are definitely the hardest thing for me to see gains on; my right shoulder sort of clicks if I go too high on weight. This might be due to a motorcycle crash I had riding in the dirt, but im not sure (my right shoulder hurt like hell for a few days afterwards). Anyways, I have to approach adding weight much more conservatively with my shoulders than any other part of my body, and I can guess eventually the clicking will get worse
I can imagine the frustration though- whether we realize it or not our shoulders come into play almost everywhere in life. The only thing I can think of that would be worse is having hand problems or arthritis...
I am 'disabled' due to "pain". My hands are shot as well. I have OA, and so far, both knees replaced, one hip replaced, and now both shoulders repaired. The goal is simply to try to improve my quality of life, and lower the amount of pain meds I take daily. Due to a blood issue, I can no longer take any type of NSAID - which makes things much worse. My lovely wife now opens all packages, jars, etc as at 52 I no longer can. Hence, the no coil building, hands are too dumb.
I love the MVP2, but can't handle the fire button.
Would love to take a look at it. I had my right shoulder repaired in 2011, and it's much better, but not 100%. So anything that could maybe help I'd like to look into.
hey Peter C, maybe this could help some...... at least i hope so.....my hands/fingers are stiff especially after the day goes on and this fix has really improved things with my MVP button....i think the pic's are pretty much self explanatory....i wish you well.
if i remember my rubber adhesive pieces came with an electronic device, yet i'm sure they or something like it can be found at the store.....i use a pistol type grip on my MVP and all i have to do is lay my thumb against the button w/minimal pressure to fire.
if i remember my rubber adhesive pieces came with an electronic device, yet i'm sure they or something like it can be found at the store.....i use a pistol type grip on my MVP and all i have to do is lay my thumb against the button w/minimal pressure to fire.
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I've seen those kind of 'tabs' at Home Depot. Will need to give something like that a try! TY
Alright hooked it up to my phone to charge my phone and waited about 20 minutes. Now it will not even turn on. No lights, no power display nothing> Anybody know what to do? This thing is only about 3 months old and never been dropped
Does the iPhone show that it's charging while plugged in to it?
Have to ask, did you turn the USB output switch to on?
Same 'no-response' when you turn the USB output to off and click the fire button?
Any response if you plug the MVP in to charge at this point?
Have you tried other tanks, no tank?
Turned it on and off via 5 quick button presses?
Have to ask, did you turn the USB output switch to on?
Same 'no-response' when you turn the USB output to off and click the fire button?
Any response if you plug the MVP in to charge at this point?
Have you tried other tanks, no tank?
Turned it on and off via 5 quick button presses?
Yes it did show phone was charging
Yes I turned the switch to on
no response no matter where I put button whether on or off
Have not tried to plug it back into charge
changed tanks and nothing works-tried 2-3 of them and all tanks that are working elsewhere
Have TRIED to turn it off and on but it will not turn on
Thanks Jimmy-any help appreciated
Yes I turned the switch to on
no response no matter where I put button whether on or off
Have not tried to plug it back into charge
changed tanks and nothing works-tried 2-3 of them and all tanks that are working elsewhere
Have TRIED to turn it off and on but it will not turn on
Thanks Jimmy-any help appreciated
I would ask about the side buttons causing anything to happen, but you said there was no display earlier...
We know you have battery, since the USB output is working...
I am thinking either the power connection to the ecig portion came loose... or something along those lines. The display and all button control would be through the uController. I messed with my buttons some to see if I could find evidence of a master reset type function, but I didn't see anything change except the puff counter and only when expected.
I'm guessing you didn't buy it direct from Innokin, so you would have to chase up the seller's warranty... but you can probably still email and get a response from support@innokin.com if there are any further troubleshooting actions to be taken.
Once you find out the status of your warranty, and only if it's not going to help to have the warranty... are you against opening the MVP and looking for burned/damaged parts/traces?
We know you have battery, since the USB output is working...
I am thinking either the power connection to the ecig portion came loose... or something along those lines. The display and all button control would be through the uController. I messed with my buttons some to see if I could find evidence of a master reset type function, but I didn't see anything change except the puff counter and only when expected.
I'm guessing you didn't buy it direct from Innokin, so you would have to chase up the seller's warranty... but you can probably still email and get a response from support@innokin.com if there are any further troubleshooting actions to be taken.
Once you find out the status of your warranty, and only if it's not going to help to have the warranty... are you against opening the MVP and looking for burned/damaged parts/traces?
Jimmy-excellent point. I hooked it up to the phone again and now it is not charging it.It must have broke after I first hooked it up and saw it charging.
I did not buy it from Innokin but from Vapor Beast. I have an email in to them to see what the warranty is.
If it is not warranted I would not be opposed to opening it and checking it out. Do you know what to look for?
I did not buy it from Innokin but from Vapor Beast. I have an email in to them to see what the warranty is.
If it is not warranted I would not be opposed to opening it and checking it out. Do you know what to look for?
Just tried to plug it back up to charger and II get a flashing red light. Nothing at display. Unplugged it of course.
Have a back up one (Shine) and opened package and plugged it in and it showed green and 3.7 power. Left it plugged in about 20 minutes and green light went out and now it shows 3.8 power. I thought once light was out it is good to go. BUT I also thought it should be at 4.1-4.2 fully charged.
Yeah,... based on the manual and my experience (very little with the MVP2), the green light shouldn't go out until the charge process stops.
I can't say I know anything specific to look for within a bad MVP, other than it is generally obvious if a part has burned out... and there shouldn't be any spare wires left not connected to anything
If something has 'burned up' rather than 'burned out'... you should be able to tell based on smelling around the USB port(s)... even if you haven't smelled it before, the odor should make itself evident quickly as something you DONT want to smell again. So, don't take a lung buster of a smell... pretend it's a chemical (it is) and start with a short sniff... and work your way up to a longer inhale if needed. For an idea of the strength, I have developed a sensitivity to this smell and generally have to put anything that has burned up into zip locks until I am finally ready to get rid of it... OR I clean it with some acetic acid, which probably just masks the smell.
Anyway,... long story short (too late)... damaged parts/board are generally rather obvious... either by sight or smell.
You can find some tear-downs of MVP2's online to help with the dis-assembly process.
EDIT: If you aren't familiar with surface mount PCB repair... it's up to you if you want to try any repairs beyond re-soldering a wire that may have came loose. But if by any chance you would consider the device garbage at this point anyway, then I personally think it's worth having a little look first... at worst case, you will be able to better describe the device if you are selling it for parts or even giving it away... this could also be a good time to try your first repair though
I can't say I know anything specific to look for within a bad MVP, other than it is generally obvious if a part has burned out... and there shouldn't be any spare wires left not connected to anything
If something has 'burned up' rather than 'burned out'... you should be able to tell based on smelling around the USB port(s)... even if you haven't smelled it before, the odor should make itself evident quickly as something you DONT want to smell again. So, don't take a lung buster of a smell... pretend it's a chemical (it is) and start with a short sniff... and work your way up to a longer inhale if needed. For an idea of the strength, I have developed a sensitivity to this smell and generally have to put anything that has burned up into zip locks until I am finally ready to get rid of it... OR I clean it with some acetic acid, which probably just masks the smell.
Anyway,... long story short (too late)... damaged parts/board are generally rather obvious... either by sight or smell.
You can find some tear-downs of MVP2's online to help with the dis-assembly process.
EDIT: If you aren't familiar with surface mount PCB repair... it's up to you if you want to try any repairs beyond re-soldering a wire that may have came loose. But if by any chance you would consider the device garbage at this point anyway, then I personally think it's worth having a little look first... at worst case, you will be able to better describe the device if you are selling it for parts or even giving it away... this could also be a good time to try your first repair though
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I do not smell anything at all. After I tried to plug it back in and got red now when I press power button I get either 1) a red flashing light (flashes maybe 3-4 times) 2) that rainbow of red, then yellow and then green.
I have emailed both Vapor Beast and Innokin to see what they say.
If I decide to take it apart I will watch the video's. Not sure I am up to all of that.
Hey thanks so much for all your help
I have emailed both Vapor Beast and Innokin to see what they say.
If I decide to take it apart I will watch the video's. Not sure I am up to all of that.
Hey thanks so much for all your help
No problem... I would say I wish I had more experience fixing MVP2's... but I'm kinda glad they don't break down THAT often
I'm glad to hear the device is working it's way back to life... that's odd though. At least you have a back up device, even if that one is acting a little odd too.
I'm glad to hear the device is working it's way back to life... that's odd though. At least you have a back up device, even if that one is acting a little odd too.
All the above really sucks
(except the part about having a lovely wife)Heres hoping things stabilize for you as time goes on... Its a price we all pay I guess for spending all those years fighting gravity..
Be glad you didn't have a heart attack... I suffer from congenital hip displasia, was never operated on, and Diclofenac high doses (150mg and above daily) pushed me into the heart attack. I'm as disabled as you without pain meds... In the end the pain comes and goes, sometimes it's full on and sometimes a little lighter. I've been mostly in bed for the past 5 months.
Some people are given Tramadol, inflamation doesn't go away but it's a trickery. Ask your doctor, if I can take it with a heart attack, you certainly can.
Got my MVP 2 today and took a Nautilus tank off on of my Vision Spinner ll put it on the MVP 2 and all I can say is WOW. Now all I have to do is learn all the functions.
Well... it's really simple, as you may have already found out...
Press and hold 'P' to put it in 'Variable Wattage' mode... which will first show you your puff count... then press 'P' repeatedly to cycle through the available wattage settings.
Press and hold 'U' to put it in 'Variable Voltage' mode... which will first show you your puff count... then press 'U' repeatedly to cycle through your voltages.
While adjusting either of these modes... if you press the mode button for the other mode... you are now in the other mode...
To reset the puff counter... turn the MVP2 off by pressing the 'fire' button 5 times, quickly. Then turn the MVP2 back on by doing the same thing.
To check your coil resistance and internal battery level... press the 'P' and 'U' simultaneously.
Tu use the USB output on the bottom, just flip the on/off switch on the bottom. Since this regulated output uses more power while ON then when OFF, you should keep it off when not in use.
The LED's under the fire button tell you things like current internal battery range and if the unit is charging or not... the manual has the specifics.
This is all, of course, in the manual... but I figure it might be easier to see it in very plain english/American.
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