it is nearly identical to the vamo so hunt up a video on the vamo I know Grimm green did one.
or this is the video from the actual Lavatube
The LAVATUBE Version 2.5 | Electronic Cigarette - YouTube
Who got up this morning and re-built coils for Protank Mini/Evod? This girl!!I know there's a couple girls here who are wanting to learn. Below is a link to the method I used. I wrote the steps down in my notebook for reference as I watched the video. As a note, I didn't have 3mm silica, just 2mm, but that works fine. I used the 32 guage wire and on the two coils I made I got 1.5 ohms and 1.6 on the other, using 4 wraps on top. I did not put in a flavor wick, and so far no problems at all
I think that using the long straight pin is brilliant. Really cuts down on the fumbling.
Hope this helps!
Hi My! How is the provari doing for you?
Who got up this morning and re-built coils for Protank Mini/Evod? This girl!!I know there's a couple girls here who are wanting to learn. Below is a link to the method I used. I wrote the steps down in my notebook for reference as I watched the video. As a note, I didn't have 3mm silica, just 2mm, but that works fine. I used the 32 guage wire and on the two coils I made I got 1.5 ohms and 1.6 on the other, using 4 wraps on top. I did not put in a flavor wick, and so far no problems at all
I think that using the long straight pin is brilliant. Really cuts down on the fumbling.
Hope this helps!
oh - I know what you mean. Our local B&M opened a larger 2nd store. The opening was Saturday and he had some nice new PV's that were tempting. Got out w/ just a couple new drip tips.
I don't own a K100 but several of my friends do and I've tried it out. My friends own several different mechanicals and they are very happy with their telescoping K100's. The bottom switch was a bit harder to push then my hands prefer, but it wasn't bad. I'm used to a very smooth bottom switch on my Super T mechanicals so I realize I can be a bit picky when it comes to bottom switches. Over all I thought it was a good mechanical for the price.![]()
Who got up this morning and re-built coils for Protank Mini/Evod? This girl!!I know there's a couple girls here who are wanting to learn. Below is a link to the method I used. I wrote the steps down in my notebook for reference as I watched the video. As a note, I didn't have 3mm silica, just 2mm, but that works fine. I used the 32 guage wire and on the two coils I made I got 1.5 ohms and 1.6 on the other, using 4 wraps on top. I did not put in a flavor wick, and so far no problems at all
I think that using the long straight pin is brilliant. Really cuts down on the fumbling.
Hope this helps!
Most mechs have a bottom button, either recessed or more commonly, with a locking ring. Some have side firing buttons like the Nemisis, 69, and Smok Natural. One or two have top firing buttons, but those are mostly e-pipe mods like the Hammer by Kato.Ok, cool, thanks! so that bit that sticks out of the bottom is actually the "button"? That would take some getting used to, after this iTaste vv3 -- do a lot of the mechs operate that way?
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thevapebook.com has a lot of info and recipes...for those not already familiar with that site.
Congrats on the rebuildingThanks for posting that video, next time I rebuild my PTcoils I'm gonna try that method.
Glad to know I'm not the only one that's been vaping for a while but still has a hard time resisting new PV's even though I REALLY don't need anyI don't have too much trouble resisting ordering on line anymore but it's still REALLY hard to resist when those PV's are right there where I can see them in person, hold them, and give them a test drive. Besides having a great local vape shop with all the China made mods I also live nearby and am friends with one of the well known mod makers so it takes a LOT of will power to resist buying new PV's often.
I don't own a K100 but several of my friends do and I've tried it out. My friends own several different mechanicals and they are very happy with their telescoping K100's. The bottom switch was a bit harder to push then my hands prefer, but it wasn't bad. I'm used to a very smooth bottom switch on my Super T mechanicals so I realize I can be a bit picky when it comes to bottom switches. Over all I thought it was a good mechanical for the price.![]()
OTOH - its so light you can't stand it down w/o it firing. I had to train myself to turn the locking ring before putting it down. A couple time when I first got it - I failed to lock it and set it on the table next to me. Then a minute or so later - I smell something burning. Yikes! It was like the old days when the cig would fall out of the ashtray. Always had to pay attention 'till I 'learned myself' to lock it.
Hmm teached myself basic soldering for my quadcopter build but im still way to afraid to attempt soldering on a PCB. But i hope for u its just a pre tinned pad for the wireNow that would be so nice. From a co-op I've bought all the parts, pieces, and board to build a DNA30 box mod. I've no idea what I'm doing and haven't used a soldering iron for electronic work for 30+ years. I'm quite nervous that I'll burn the board up trying to solder leads to it. Oh what have I gotten myself into!!!
I'm really liking the Super-T Simplicity. It's been my 'goto' PV for the last couple weeks since I got it. The bottom switch is so smooth and light - it takes nothing to fire it. OTOH - its so light you can't stand it down w/o it firing. I had to train myself to turn the locking ring before putting it down. A couple time when I first got it - I failed to lock it and set it on the table next to me. Then a minute or so later - I smell something burning. Yikes! It was like the old days when the cig would fall out of the ashtray. Always had to pay attention 'till I 'learned myself' to lock it.
What Super-T's do you have, and can they be set down w/o locking them?