There are vids out there hawing machines that put out more energy than they use. No such thing.That is what I saw in the vid.
There are vids out there hawing machines that put out more energy than they use. No such thing.That is what I saw in the vid.
I find rayon more forgiving too. Easier to work with if you will.Now I get it. I gave up long ago rebuilding those little factory coils.
Maybe you should consider re-posting this over in the rayon thread. Jeremy might be interested in what you've pointed out. It's long been said 'over there' that rayon collapses and cotton swells and that's why you need to use more rayon than cotton.
Hold on while I consider it...Maybe you should consider re-posting this over in the rayon thread. Jeremy might be interested in what you've pointed out. It's long been said 'over there' that rayon collapses and cotton swells and that's why you need to use more rayon than cotton.
I've seen a hemming machine but never a hawing machine.There are vids out there hawing machines that put out more energy than they use. No such thing.
Yep use salon coil cotton it is pretty much the same thing alignment wise and compression wise as the rayon coils.I don't think natural vs synthetic has anything to do with it, cellulose is cellulose. If you combed long fiber cotton so all the strands were alligned there should be no difference.
KGD is easily fluffed with pointy tweezers. I do not remove any layers, other than to split the pad in half. I cut my wick, & basicly just touch the flat side with the closed tweers & let them open a tiny bit, or just stroke the pad very lighty in the direction of the fibers. I'm really not doing anything but touching it 3-4 times. I've also cut my wick, pinched & rolled one end as usual, & then held both ends & slightly & gently rolled them a tiny bit in opposite directions. Both methods cause those pressed fibers to loosen up without misaligning. It is nothing but a sheet of cotton that has been ironed. You can iron a cotton shirt & it will be perfectly flat, (compressed) & smooth. The second you move it that starts to go away. Mine starts to fluff just from cutting the wick & handling it, & I never have wicking issues.Yep use salon coil cotton it is pretty much the same thing alignment wise and compression wise as the rayon coils.
I roll the salon coil cotton nicely, not twisting except for the end to get it started thru the coil. In a dripper it performs like the Scottish Roll wicks I see in the vids. Will go pretty much dry without burning. It does have a bit more startup flavor than the KGD. Might try boiling some...
KGD is made for womens facial work and made for scrubbing. And is very compressed.
Salon Coil is made for absorbing.
I am digging back in the memory of a yarn dye class I took about 15 years ago. It is a fact that you have to use a different chemical based dye for some fibers over others. It might be that cotton needs one type to take on the color and rayon a different one. That might explain why one rinses clean and the other does not.All of that sounds logical. Rayon will wash clean, too, whereas cotton seems to get discoloration embedded somehow. I also think that "less entanglement" is why cotton pads, with aligned fibers, seem to work better than, let's say, cotton pulled off of cotton swabs.
Ohh I am not saying that the KGD is bad at all, just that I like the salon coil better. You might want to watch a utube vid on how to do a scottish roll and you may better understand where I am coming from. the stretching required on the pad is not needed in the Salon Coil as it is already fluffed and aligned too.KGD is easily fluffed with pointy tweezers. I do not remove any layers, other than to split the pad in half. I cut my wick, & basicly just touch the flat side with the closed tweers & let them open a tiny bit, or just stroke the pad very lighty in the direction of the fibers. I'm really not doing anything but touching it 3-4 times. I've also cut my wick, pinched & rolled one end as usual, & then held both ends & slightly & gently rolled them a tiny bit in opposite directions. Both methods cause those pressed fibers to loosen up without misaligning. It is nothing but a sheet of cotton that has been ironed. You can iron a cotton shirt & it will be perfectly flat, (compressed) & smooth. The second you move it that starts to go away. Mine starts to fluff just from cutting the wick & handling it, & I never have wicking issues.
My thought is that the cotton fibers actually absorb some of the fluid whereas the rayon just wicks it between the fibers with capillary action but does not absorb any of the liquid? Could also explain why the rayon lasts longer?I am digging back in the memory of a yarn dye class I took about 15 years ago. It is a fact that you have to use a different chemical based dye for some fibers over others. It might be that cotton needs one type to take on the color and rayon a different one. That might explain why one rinses clean and the other does not.
Between rayon (cellulose) and cotton (cellulose), rayon fibers themselves absorb a bit more. ( not enough diference to matter )My thought is that the cotton fibers actually absorb some of the fluid whereas the rayon just wicks it between the fibers with capillary action but does not absorb any of the liquid? Could also explain why the rayon lasts longer?
I thought about pranking the Vape community by saying how much better my vape was since I started carding my cotton.btw has anyone looked into spinning sliver as a source of parallel fiber cotton and rayon? yes that is sliver not silver.
Example (and maybe not the best price)
New World Textiles Combed Organic Upland Cotton Paradise Fibers
Um I kinda did that at one point when all I had was some really messed up cotton balls. I broke out my spinning comb set and combed it myself.I thought about pranking the Vape community by saying how much better my vape was since I started carding my cotton.
But then I took a nap![]()
Yep you have to watch out for that underage cotton.I thought about pranking the Vape community by saying how much better my vape was since I started carding my cotton.
But then I took a nap![]()
KGD is easily fluffed with pointy tweezers. I do not remove any layers, other than to split the pad in half. I cut my wick, & basicly just touch the flat side with the closed tweers & let them open a tiny bit, or just stroke the pad very lighty in the direction of the fibers. I'm really not doing anything but touching it 3-4 times. I've also cut my wick, pinched & rolled one end as usual, & then held both ends & slightly & gently rolled them a tiny bit in opposite directions. Both methods cause those pressed fibers to loosen up without misaligning. It is nothing but a sheet of cotton that has been ironed. You can iron a cotton shirt & it will be perfectly flat, (compressed) & smooth. The second you move it that starts to go away. Mine starts to fluff just from cutting the wick & handling it, & I never have wicking issues.
I never stretch the pad. It's more of a flex of the strip of wick I had cut. I don't even have to do that. I found that just the handling of the wick causes it to start losing the compression, sliding it back & forth in the coil, etc. I know when I change the wick it is no longer compressed. I tried rayon, it had a taste I didn't like. I'd like to try the coil cotton as long as it's not bleached or chemically treated & is 100% cotton, tho.Ohh I am not saying that the KGD is bad at all, just that I like the salon coil better. You might want to watch a utube vid on how to do a scottish roll and you may better understand where I am coming from. the stretching required on the pad is not needed in the Salon Coil as it is already fluffed and aligned too.
I was making Scottish Roll wicks long before I had ever heard of them![]()
That's what I believe happens.My thought is that the cotton fibers actually absorb some of the fluid whereas the rayon just wicks it between the fibers with capillary action but does not absorb any of the liquid? Could also explain why the rayon lasts longer?