Older Folks and Vaping Front Porch - Part Four

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Kenna

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Robert Cromwell

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MikeE3

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I can only put a paperclip through one of mine. So, what are 'slip adjustable pliers'?

I'll go ahead and operate on this one, plus the one that has the loose positive block. The rest will have to wait, in case they work fine the way they are.

By any chance is there a video?

Looking at the google images of spare parts to try to imagine how it really works, I'm amazed the ones that aren't lined up with the hole in the positive pin actually work at all. That's where all the airflow comes from!

The air goes into the hole in the pin, then flows up the tube in the center of the pin up into the chamber. And, comes out under the coil. So cool to know how things work!

However, to make them actually work right is not my strong suit. But, I'll give it a try. Any videos to watch (to see what to do and what not to do, and to give me courage)?

I 'guess' that 2 hole KFL's can work without the 2 air holes in the body lined up perfectly w/ the air holes in the 510 post/screw because the post diameter is slightly less the the holes it goes through. Just enough air can be pulled in to enter the holes in the post/scew to flow up to the coil.

As for pliers - yep the 2 types already posted are fine. You just need something to grab and hold the positive build block on top of the deck when you screw in the 510 post/screw.

I like to use little flat head pliers like these for that. The face of these pliers are flat (no grooves or ridges) so you don't scratch the positive block when holding it tight.

Amazon.com - Darice 3-Inch Mini Flat Nose Pliers - Jewelry Making Accessories

So how are you progressing? Getting any of them to work?
 

MikeE3

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Kenna

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Those are nice ... but a pair of 10 inch pliers is a bit overkill for the job Dancing is trying to do.
Ya use what ya haz on hand, Mike! (Are you channeling Robert?) Guys, if she has a pair shaped like that they will work without additional investment on her part. Since her daughter does work on her car I'm guessing she has a pair of some size that work like those.
 

Kenna

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Did not know exactly what she was into but if It has to do with OK funs I will just stand clear.
She needs to adjust the airflow holes on her new KF. Now I realize I should get a rubberized pair. I just bought 2 black & 2 white KF's on that sale. Don't want them scratched up since they are painted.
 

MikeE3

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Ya use what ya haz on hand, Mike! (Are you channeling Robert?) Guys, if she has a pair shaped like that they will work without additional investment on her part. Since her daughter does work on her car I'm guessing she has a pair of some size that work like those.

Yep ... what you said ... just trying to show her alternatives she may have around the house, not necessary go out and buy 'em.
 

MikeE3

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She needs to adjust the airflow holes on her new KF. Now I realize I should get a rubberized pair. I just bought 2 black & 2 white KF's on that sale. Don't want them scratched up since they are painted.

But the part she has to hold is just a small SS block on the build deck not the outside finished part of the atty.
 

DavidOck

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Looking at the google images of spare parts to try to imagine how it really works, I'm amazed the ones that aren't lined up with the hole in the positive pin actually work at all. That's where all the airflow comes from!

I 'guess' that 2 hole KFL's can work without the 2 air holes in the body lined up perfectly w/ the air holes in the 510 post/screw because the post diameter is slightly less the the holes it goes through. Just enough air can be pulled in to enter the holes in the post/scew to flow up to the coil.

That, and, IIRC, been a while since I've pulled the pins out, the pin is drilled through where the air intakes are, into the hollow area. Being a smaller diameter than the hole it goes through on it's way to the positive block, exact lineup isn't required. It may (or may not noticeably) affect the draw.
 

Kenna

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But the part she has to hold is just a small SS block on the build deck not the outside finished part of the atty.
She has to take the wire screw out of the positive block. Then she has to use the sliding plier to clamp onto the bottom of the base, as close to the 510 pin as possible with the bottom lip of the pliers, & put the top lip of the pliers on top of that positive block & squeeze hard to hold them together while she uses a screw driver to adjust the 510.
 

Kenna

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That, and, IIRC, been a while since I've pulled the pins out, the pin is drilled through where the air intakes are, into the hollow area. Being a smaller diameter than the hole it goes through on it's way to the positive block, exact lineup isn't required. It may (or may not noticeably) affect the draw.
It affected mine.
 

MikeE3

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She has to take the wire screw out of the positive block. Then she has to use the sliding plier to clamp onto the bottom of the base, as close to the 510 pin as possible with the bottom lip of the pliers, & put the top lip of the pliers on top of that positive block & squeeze hard to hold them together while she uses a screw driver to adjust the 510.

Not necessary to do it that way. Just need 1 screw driver and 1 pair of pliers.

1. Put the 510 post/screw through the atty bottom
2. Align the positive block to the threads of the 510 coming through the atty bottom
3. Hold the positive block w/ your fingers
4. use the screw driver to tighten the 510 post/scew into the positive block while holding the block w/ your fingers
5. Put everything down
6. Get a pair of pliers and clamp them to the positive block
7. Pick the pliers holding the positive block up in one hand
8. With your other hand use the screw driver to tighten / turn the 510 post/screw to get the alignment/tightness you want

No pliers touch the outside of the atty.
 

clnire

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View attachment 520225

Do you see the hole at the joint? The bolt can move between the two holes, to give you a wide mouth at the teeth, or a narrow mouth.
I have a pair of those I wrap with electrical tape so it doesn't damage what I am holding.

Oh the vendor that I was talking about answered my first email and informed me that I ordered more than they had left in stock but no suggested remedy. I emailed them back and asked for either a refund or to send me a replacement flavor of anything that they did have in stock (not picky) - that is when they decided to no longer acknowledge my emails...
Now that just sucks.
 

DavidOck

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She has to take the wire screw out of the positive block. Then she has to use the sliding plier to clamp onto the bottom of the base, as close to the 510 pin as possible with the bottom lip of the pliers, & put the top lip of the pliers on top of that positive block & squeeze hard to hold them together while she uses a screw driver to adjust the 510.

Use the pliers to grip both the moving positive post and the fixed in place negative post, holding them in perfect alignment. Then tighten the 510 screw.
 

Kenna

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Not necessary to do it that way. Just need 1 screw driver and 1 pair of pliers.

1. Put the 510 post/screw through the atty bottom
2. Align the positive block to the threads of the 510 coming through the atty bottom
3. Hold the positive block w/ your fingers
4. use the screw driver to tighten the 510 post/scew into the positive block while holding the block w/ your fingers
5. Put everything down
6. Get a pair of pliers and clamp them to the positive block
7. Pick the pliers holding the positive block up in one hand
8. With your other hand use the screw driver to tighten / turn the 510 post/screw to get the alignment/tightness you want

No pliers touch the outside of the atty.
I tried that way, but I don't have much grip (pinch) power in my fingers. My hand grip is much better & the pliers gave me better torque (?) for turning the screwdriver. I even got a longer screwdriver so I'd have more torque. Some of those 510 pins do not want to move in either direction. DH has tools & the idea now, tho. She'll figure out how to get he grip she needs & line that thing up! Whoop! Girl power!
 
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