Has the nickel building got any easier , or are you more used to it now ?
Starting to see this tempered nickel , some saying its easier to build with.
Older Folks and Vaping Front Porch - Part Three
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Has the nickel building got any easier , or are you more used to it now ?
Starting to see this tempered nickel , some saying its easier to build with.
So, lady, what took you so long? We weren't that scary, were we?I'll be 47 this year. I've been retired for 6 years though due to having pancreatitis. Its a weird thing to have to retire when you're 40 because of course no one else your age is retired. And its especially hard when you were pretty much married to your career, and worked two jobs.
I don't want to be 30 again since that was the year I got divorced. I wouldn't mind being 35 again though
Since we need to keep this vaping related, I do believe it saved my life.
I think it is for the DNA because you need a different coil configuration. I have some but for the SX only having to build a 6-7 wraps 28awg or 26awg it's really simple. Just wrap a spaced coil push it against the screwdriver or what ever you are using an let it spring back if it's not to your liking stretch it and push it in again. With the Kangers easy to make the connection and never have had one fail. I am just using the regular NI200. The tempered was easier when you had to build a 10 or 12 wrap spaced coil and the connections had to be perfect to make the refinement feature happy on the DNA but with the SX you just set it when You first put it on and your good to go.I put the same build on all 4 of my Kangers that I have set up with nickel and I kind of break it in slowly then right to 18J 410 degrees. No new coil old coil every time you take it off to fill it. If I change Kangers I set the resistance for the new ones because they will have up to a .005 ohm difference then good to go. They are all between .082 and .089. That's what I prefer .08 something with the 26 the recommended .065 is good.
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The other one was getting kinda long. I prefer the 28awg at .08 the 26awg at .065 is a lot warmer vape but I am going to try another and use a lower temp you also have to use a higher J because of the thicker wire more like 20J-25J
32 gauge Kanthol. 3mm silica, or 3 1mm at 4 wraps = 1.7, or 2mm @ 4 wraps = 1.5 Ω.
I hate threading a coil after wrapping... With the silica on the Kayfun, 1.5 Ω is my sweet spot. But after so many hours fiddling with it last night, my mind fogged and I wrapped it for a kanger.
I have 2 spools of the 32 gauge, so don't want to spend more money on lower gauge.
clockwise open, counter-clockwise closed. If it's overfilled, I do have to loosen the juice channel every once in a while.
But it seems that when fully juiced, silica lets the juice scorch at too high wattage.
some of y'all probably already know this but I just discovered that hydrogen peroxide is a really good cleaner for protank/evod coils. I ran out of denture cleaning tablets so-----I took my coils apart, tossed the used coils/wicks and then dumped all the pieces in a 1/2 pint jelly jar. I rinsed them off with hot water then drained the water. Covered them with the HP. I let them soak 3 maybe 4 days and shook them whenever it crossed my mind to do so. I am amazed at how clean they are. Even the insulators and the seals look practically new.
With the denture tabs I still had to take a q-tip to some of the parts.
Didn't have to do that this time
PS: I missed tossing one of the used coils so it went through the cleaning process. It came out looking like a brand new one. It got me to thinking that maybe I could clean without replacing the coil/wick each time. I am going to remove the chimney from a couple of used heads and see if this method will clean them.
With the denture tabs I still had to take a q-tip to some of the parts.
Didn't have to do that this time
PS: I missed tossing one of the used coils so it went through the cleaning process. It came out looking like a brand new one. It got me to thinking that maybe I could clean without replacing the coil/wick each time. I am going to remove the chimney from a couple of used heads and see if this method will clean them.
Not sure I trust hydrogen peroxide around things that will end up INSIDE my body. Would have to do some research.
I rinsed them for about 30 minutes so I actually feel comfortable using it.
But I have had second thoughts about using it to clean without replacing wick and coil
But I have had second thoughts about using it to clean without replacing wick and coil
They recommend .065 but alot of people like the vape better with .08 and even .09. My fave is .08something between .082 and .088 with 28 awg. With 26awg it's 7 wraps at 3mm gives you between .065 and .075 but it is a warmer vape. I am going to try one this afternoon and try it with the temp a little lower. This upgrade that should be available will help I think with the power saving feature and I'm pretty sure the bug they are going to fix isn't a major prob it's just when you set your resistance and hit the fire button after it shows the resistance the second time it is just fine. but to answer your question yes you can build anywhere from .06 to .1 and get a good vape. My sweet spot is like I say .08 Not too hot but a great vape and flavor and simple to build.I'll let you know how it turns out. This will be my 5th Kanger built with nickel I really like the stuff and it's as easy as kanthal.
Yay! I hope it helps you a lot. So sorry you've been struggling with this but happy you got another bottle of the WTAs. Please let us know if it helps.
I've forgotten a number of times and it's embarrassing standing in the doctors office or whatever trying to count on my finger how old I am.
Oh boy, that is a really tempting deal. I believe you can send your P3 in to be reprogrammed to sub ohm on it. I thought I saw that on the ProVape sub forum. Could have been somebody that didn't know what they were talking about. Wish I'd paid more attention because I can't find it on a search.
Nawh, I'll just put 'em away wid da phosselized phlamingo pheathers in da porch 'lost & phound' basket.
Ew, you're taking crab leg juice to bed with you?
some of y'all probably already know this but I just discovered that hydrogen peroxide is a really good cleaner for protank/evod coils. I ran out of denture cleaning tablets so-----I took my coils apart, tossed the used coils/wicks and then dumped all the pieces in a 1/2 pint jelly jar. I rinsed them off with hot water then drained the water. Covered them with the HP. I let them soak 3 maybe 4 days and shook them whenever it crossed my mind to do so. I am amazed at how clean they are. Even the insulators and the seals look practically new.
With the denture tabs I still had to take a q-tip to some of the parts.
Didn't have to do that this time
PS: I missed tossing one of the used coils so it went through the cleaning process. It came out looking like a brand new one. It got me to thinking that maybe I could clean without replacing the coil/wick each time. I am going to remove the chimney from a couple of used heads and see if this method will clean them.
Sounds simple and easy. I'll let Ken do the research and then perhaps try it. A good rinse and perhaps a dry burn seems like it would take care of any problems.
Wait, what? Didn't you give up on the stuff about twelve times?
When I mentioned Pluid and Crab Juice I did not mean to imply that I have tried either. but watching old reviews is very entertaining!
Roto, hope the WTAs help you. Hang in there!
Hydrogen Peroxide? Not sure myself.... but removing the wick, soaking and a good, solid rinse, perhaps.... I don't know. I get impatient and just rinse in hot water, pat dry, dry burn, rinse, pat dry and rewick. Sometimes I use a dental brush to help clean (one of those between the teeth thingys), but not always.
Roto, hope the WTAs help you. Hang in there!
Hydrogen Peroxide? Not sure myself.... but removing the wick, soaking and a good, solid rinse, perhaps.... I don't know. I get impatient and just rinse in hot water, pat dry, dry burn, rinse, pat dry and rewick. Sometimes I use a dental brush to help clean (one of those between the teeth thingys), but not always.
IIR, the number of times according to Legs' own count was either 247 or 347. But, that was with toppers other than the Kanger. Once he built with nickel on the Kanger, he was able to do it successfully and consistently.
Well I know it is available, not sure if they charge for it or not. They shouldn't but it has to be sent in to them. I don't subohm so I wasn't worried but I know all the P3's after 5-15 have that capability.So they should do it. Oh I see it was posted figured they would do it for free. I could send it in for that too. Only takes a week from the time I send something to them and its back in my hands. In fact I could send it in and have it sent to you I have a friend there. I don't know if you have to be the original owner or not.
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I remove both wick and coil from the heads and replace them with pre-wound coils that I pick up at fasttech. I usually wait until I have 25 or 30 coils that need to be done. I used to try to clean the used heads but found it just works better to rebuild instead of reusing.
and I just realized you recently passed the 1 year mark of no smoking!!! Wahoooooooo!!!! sure hope ya join us on the back porch too and in the hangout!
Is nickel something that is used for other things and will always be available?? If not, ya might wanna hang on to it, just in case you need to go back to kanthal at some point.
Ok, nevermind, have now been told in the hangout that the sx mini will also use kanthal just fine. I thought it only used nickel wire.
You keep saying this....... but how is .065 not sub ohming? Is it because somehow nickel is different??
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