Older Folks and Vaping Front Porch - Part Three

[FlamingoTutu]

Boden, wow, six years! Congrats! That deserves an entire shopping spree. Bring on the herd of dancing Snoopys.

Ummm, think most here are more familiar with toggle switches...

Or yanking chains.

 

[DavidOck]

Or yanking chains.

I think that's going to be the switch actuator on the new Goth mod.

 

[bigbells]

Just built a 26 gauge titanium coil, 3 mm inside diameter, 3.5 loops, .26 ohms.

This is just the second one I've made. Like the first one it's working well from the get-go in TC (Nickel 200) mode on my TC devices. On my istick TC40W it's working best at 250 F; on my Koopor 60W it's working best at 270 F.

Both devices keep things relatively simple by enabling only temperature adjustment when in TC mode. The power level is handled by the chip. I really think that's a good idea and it seems to me an effective way to deal with TC. However, the Koopor has "soft, regular and hard" modes selectable. I'm currently using "hard" mode and the vape seems a little better on the Koopor than on the istick. If I raise the temp to 260 F on the iStick the vapor tastes a little burnt.

If I try to chain vape the vapor gets thinner. Keeping it down to 2 or 3 hits per minute keeps the vapor production more consistent. With my first titanium coil, which was around .57 ohms if I remember, the vapor became thin on EVERY hit after about 2 days. I'll let you know if this current lower-resistance titanium coil is good for a longer period.

KGD cotton wick as usual.

That's the latest from the NC campus of Legs TC University.

 

[bigbells]

Or yanking chains.

I admire that witty double entendre.

 

[MikeE3]

Just built a 26 gauge titanium coil, 3 mm inside diameter, 3.5 loops, .26 ohms.

This is just the second one I've made. Like the first one it's working well from the get-go in TC (Nickel 200) mode on my TC devices. On my iStick TC40W it's working best at 250 F; on my Koopor 60W it's working best at 270 F.

Both devices keep things relatively simple by enabling only temperature adjustment when in TC mode. The power level is handled by the chip. I really think that's a good idea and it seems to me an effective way to deal with TC. However, the Koopor has "soft, regular and hard" modes selectable. I'm currently using "hard" mode and the vape seems a little better on the Koopor than on the iStick. If I raise the temp to 260 F on the iStick the vapor tastes a little burnt.

If I try to chain vape the vapor gets thinner. Keeping it down to 2 or 3 hits per minute keeps the vapor production more consistent. With my first titanium coil, which was around .57 ohms if I remember, the vapor became thin on EVERY hit after about 2 days. I'll let you know if this current lower-resistance titanium coil is good for a longer period.

KGD cotton wick as usual.

That's the latest from the NC campus of Legs TC University.

What topper are you using Bells? Sounds like it's a wicking issue not replenishing the coil fast enough. I don't think I could put up w/ only 2-3 hits per minute.

 

[bigbells]

What topper are you using Bells? Sounds like it's a wicking issue not replenishing the coil fast enough. I don't think I could put up w/ only 2-3 hits per minute.

It's a Kanger Subtank. Never have had a wicking issue with any Kanthal coil I've made for it, and when I took the head apart to have a look, there was no evidence of any wicking problem.

The same thing happened just a few minutes ago with my second titanium coil, and again, the wick is soaked and the coil looks great, but vapor production has become paltry.

I have a theory: the l-shaped thingie into which one of the leg attachment screws goes was loose when I rebuilt the coil. It tightened up fine when I screwed the legs down but maybe it's causing a problem. There is no evidence of any problem though... the resistance reading remains constant and it worked fine for the first hour or so... but, I'm going to toss that deck and build on another deck instead, just in case. I really don't know how those heads are constructed so I don't know if that could be the source of the problem.

 

[bigbells]

I'm going to proceed on the assumption that you are right, @MikeE3 and I'm going to maybe drill another hole or two in the rebuildable heads for my Kanger Subtanks before I build another titanium coil for them.

 

[Robert Cromwell]

Oh. You thought I was serious. I'm never serious.

Nope Sirrus is someone else on here.

 

[garyoa1]

I thot sirius wuz apple.

 

[DavidOck]

I'm going to proceed on the assumption that you are right, @MikeE3 and I'm going to maybe drill another hole or two in the rebuildable heads for my Kanger Subtanks before I build another titanium coil for them.

You're talking about the vaporization chamber, yes? To make it like the V2?

Or the factory OCC heads, which are, of course, rebuildable.

Enquiring minds

 

[bigbells]

You're talking about the vaporization chamber, yes? To make it like the V2?

Or the factory OCC heads, which are, of course, rebuildable.

Enquiring minds

The factory OCC heads I will never attempt to rebuild... no need to with the RBA head. But, the feed holes that are in the OCC heads are absent in the RBA head. I can't really even figure out how the juice gets drawn in to the RBA. It's pretty much got to feed in from the bottom through the center shaft, right? (No, I don't mean the chimney; I mean the shaft that connects to the 510 post of the PV.) I never had reason to worry about it, never examined that post, since the RBA deck works quite well for me with kanthal builds in the neighborhood of 0.5 to 1.1 ohms.

But now Mike has planted the earworm that it could be insufficient joose flow that's causing my difficulties with titanium builds, and I know there's a video or three about drilling a couple a few holes in the RBA cylinder. I never had any reason to watch those videos before but I do now.

 

[DavidOck]

If you look carefully at the base of the RBA you see small juice grooves. That's it. VERY small!

As I understand it, you want to spin it snug, as normal, and mark for drilling where the wick would line up. Not sure of size.

Yeah, a few vids to see what size works would be a good way to start Or measure the holes in the OCC heads.

Doh...

2.8 mm is what I get0.110 inch

 

[bigbells]

If you look carefully at the base of the RBA you see small juice grooves. That's it. VERY small!

As I understand it, you want to spin it snug, as normal, and mark for drilling where the wick would line up. Not sure of size.

Yeah, a few vids to see what size works would be a good way to start Or measure the holes in the OCC heads.

Doh...

2.8 mm is what I get0.110 inch

That's virtually identical to 7/64" but I think I might want to start smaller. I've always found it easier to enlarge a hole than to undrill one. Hardeharhar.

 

[garyoa1]

Thatz wutz nice about welding. If ya cut off too mutch, ya kin always put sum bak.

 

[bigbells]

Thatz wutz nice about welding. If ya cut off too mutch, ya kin always put sum bak.

What's nice about starting small is avoiding having to weld at all. Let's see, $7 for a complete new RBA, or do some welding on one that's messed up? I've spent too many hours grinding and polishing stainless steel welds to choose option W.

(In the early 1970s I worked in my Dad's metal fabrication shop.)

 

[DavidOck]

What's nice about starting small is avoiding having to weld at all. Let's see, $7 for a complete new RBA, or do some welding on one that's messed up? I've spent too many hours grinding and polishing stainless steel welds to choose option W.

(In the early 1970s I worked in my Dad's metal fabrication shop.)

Yep, lots more steps to undrill. Even if your drill motor has a reversing switch. Ought to revers the hole, eh?

Then again, FT has the V2 decks for $2.97

$2.97 Replacement Rebuildable RBA Plus Coil Head for SUBTANK Mini Clearomizer - 0.5ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

 

[bigbells]

Yep, lots more steps to undrill. Even if your drill motor has a reversing switch. Ought to revers the hole, eh?

Then again, FT has the V2 decks for $2.97

$2.97 Replacement Rebuildable RBA Plus Coil Head for SUBTANK Mini Clearomizer - 0.5ohm at FastTech - Worldwide Free Shipping

I just found out late last night that the current version 2 of the Kanger Subtank RBA deck has a pair of holes already included. The unbranded ones from FT might be just as good but ya never know with them. I ordered two of the new Kanger-branded RBA decks from My Vapor Store for $7 each plus $2.50 shipping. Now that they're on the way I feel more comfortable drilling holes in at least one of my two existing decks.

 

[garyoa1]

What's nice about starting small is avoiding having to weld at all. Let's see, $7 for a complete new RBA, or do some welding on one that's messed up? I've spent too many hours grinding and polishing stainless steel welds to choose option W.

(In the early 1970s I worked in my Dad's metal fabrication shop.)

Oh, I hear ya! I wuz more or less talkin' wood vs. iron. I'm da kinda guy dat cuts twice, measures once!

 

[bigbells]

Oh, I hear ya! I wuz more or less talkin' wood vs. iron. I'm da kinda guy dat cuts twice, measures once!

I'm well-experienced with that technique. It fits well with another habit: buying high and selling low.

 

[Robert Cromwell]

I'm well-experienced with that technique. It fits well with another habit: buying high and selling low.

Work in govt?