Tree.....being #266 you sure know how to make a grown man cry!!
dibi rescue is very rewarding as well.Beta tester is a good gig here if you can get it.
OK! So I did some searching around using some google-fu (and my google-fu sucks). I'm dropping it in here for everyone also (incase someone in a different thread deletes it...) Enjoy! Sorry for the long post folks!!!
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Here's some google-fu for you folks (with links, to back up what I'm putting here):
Kanthal (Wikipedia): For heating, resistance wire must be stable in air when hot. Kanthal FeCrAl alloy forms a protective layer of aluminum oxide (alumina).[1] Aluminium oxide is an electrical insulator but has a relatively high thermal conductivity; special techniques may be required to make good electrical connections.
Ok, so Kanthal produces an aluminum oxide... here's an MSDS for you on it:
Aluminum Oxide (ESPI Metals - espimetals.com): Keep in mind, the word "may" is not the same as "shall" or "will".
Acute Effects:
Inhalation: Inhalation of finely divided dust may cause coughing, mucous production and shortness of breath.
Ingestion: None recorded.
Skin: May cause irritation.
Eye: Dust may cause eye irritation.
Chronic Effects:
Inhalation: Inhalation of finely divided dust may cause lung damage affecting breathing capacity.
Ingestion: None recorded.
Skin: None recorded.
Eye: None recorded.
Ok, so there's Kanthal wire's oxide, aluminum oxide for ya, quickly, with references I've used... Also, please note that those references on the MSDS state "dust".
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I've started a thread some time ago but never got a good answer. Perhaps, someone here with better googlefu can show me good references regarding Alumina. I have not found or read anywhere stating that aluminum oxides are formed after a few seconds of torching under 1472 degrees Fahrenheit. Our operating temp for vaping is less than half of that and we only heat it up for seconds. It takes a minimum of 4 -6 hours for Alumina to form at higher temps.
Aluminium oxidizes at room temperature, doesn't it? Go lift up the hood of your car and look at the aluminum pieces. They'll all get this white powdery stuff on them (alumina... Aka sapphire). Maybe it's chemical in nature rather than heat driven, you know, electronegativities and Gibbs free energy and what not, combining with the oxygen in water maybe, but it happens nevertheless. Googling "aluminum corrosion resistance" pops up a few interesting articles. Looks like it's not heat but water and other chemicals that combine with aluminum and promote alumina formation.OK! So I did some searching around using some google-fu (and my google-fu sucks). I'm dropping it in here for everyone also (incase someone in a different thread deletes it...) Enjoy! Sorry for the long post folks!!!
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Here's some google-fu for you folks (with links, to back up what I'm putting here):
Kanthal (Wikipedia): For heating, resistance wire must be stable in air when hot. Kanthal FeCrAl alloy forms a protective layer of aluminum oxide (alumina).[1] Aluminium oxide is an electrical insulator but has a relatively high thermal conductivity; special techniques may be required to make good electrical connections.
Ok, so Kanthal produces an aluminum oxide... here's an MSDS for you on it:
Aluminum Oxide (ESPI Metals - espimetals.com): Keep in mind, the word "may" is not the same as "shall" or "will".
Acute Effects:
Inhalation: Inhalation of finely divided dust may cause coughing, mucous production and shortness of breath.
Ingestion: None recorded.
Skin: May cause irritation.
Eye: Dust may cause eye irritation.
Chronic Effects:
Inhalation: Inhalation of finely divided dust may cause lung damage affecting breathing capacity.
Ingestion: None recorded.
Skin: None recorded.
Eye: None recorded.
Ok, so there's Kanthal wire's oxide, aluminum oxide for ya, quickly, with references I've used... Also, please note that those references on the MSDS state "dust".
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I've started a thread some time ago but never got a good answer. Perhaps, someone here with better googlefu can show me good references regarding Alumina. I have not found or read anywhere stating that aluminum oxides are formed after a few seconds of torching under 1472 degrees Fahrenheit. Our operating temp for vaping is less than half of that and we only heat it up for seconds. It takes a minimum of 4 -6 hours for Alumina to form at higher temps.
OK! So I did some searching around using some google-fu (and my google-fu sucks). I'm dropping it in here for everyone also (incase someone in a different thread deletes it...) Enjoy! Sorry for the long post folks!!!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Here's some google-fu for you folks (with links, to back up what I'm putting here):
Kanthal (Wikipedia): For heating, resistance wire must be stable in air when hot. Kanthal FeCrAl alloy forms a protective layer of aluminum oxide (alumina).[1] Aluminium oxide is an electrical insulator but has a relatively high thermal conductivity; special techniques may be required to make good electrical connections.
Ok, so Kanthal produces an aluminum oxide... here's an MSDS for you on it:
Aluminum Oxide (ESPI Metals - espimetals.com): Keep in mind, the word "may" is not the same as "shall" or "will".
Acute Effects:
Inhalation: Inhalation of finely divided dust may cause coughing, mucous production and shortness of breath.
Ingestion: None recorded.
Skin: May cause irritation.
Eye: Dust may cause eye irritation.
Chronic Effects:
Inhalation: Inhalation of finely divided dust may cause lung damage affecting breathing capacity.
Ingestion: None recorded.
Skin: None recorded.
Eye: None recorded.
Ok, so there's Kanthal wire's oxide, aluminum oxide for ya, quickly, with references I've used... Also, please note that those references on the MSDS state "dust".
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The instant you pulse your coil, metallic oxides are instantly formed on your coils. In VapeLand, we know this as the effect, when it occurs on a properly tensioned microcoil. These metallic oxide layers, three distinct and chemically different layers on kanthal, and eight on titanium, are what allows us to vape with a contact microcoil, without a hard short.
By the way, as a long term cancer researcher, for major institutions, these issues fall under my purview professionally. As I stressed before, there are known risks, but a lot more research needs to be done, and everyone needs to do this research for themselves, so they know what it is they are vaping. Compared to smoking, I'm perfectly ok with it. All of this, and my observations, Aal, have to do with health concerns, and one cannot compare our coils, without also comparing oxidized coils. Anyone that thinks one is fine, the other bad, is badly misinformed. We are vaping metallic oxides my friend, and a quick look at our coils under magnification will easily demonstrate this fact to anyone interested. As I mentioned, whether the heat is sufficient enough to cause certain chemical reactions is not the point, as nano-particles, and larger particles do exist on these coils. A wee bit of research will go a long way in this regard.
Here's what my man Bill had to say about it in the micro coil thread. Enlightening stuff:
just ordered 16', Grade 1 Ti, 24g, .44Ω/inch. Should make for a nice dual coil setup on the "Nuppin" Atty at about .5Ω net.![]()
I wrote to Dr. Farsalinos a while back, stating that in addition to eliquid testing, he should schedule particulate testing for the various metal wire and wicking materials used in devices. A fair comparison would be against the particulate concentrations in the air your average urban dweller breathes in a few well-populated cities chock full of all the best that the auto, construction, and electric utility industries can deliver to our much-maligned lungs.
I have a hunch the results will be that the net sum of "undesirable" chemicals in eliquid vapor and particulates shed from coil and wick will be higher than the air a city dweller breathes, but only fractionally so, not orders of magnitude higher, and that the result will be that even with these contaminants, the "harm reduction" when switching from analogs is close to absolute, and not much more harmful than just breathing on the streets of your average city.
just ordered 16', Grade 1 Ti, 24g, .44Ω/inch. Should make for a nice dual coil setup on the "Nuppin" Atty at about .5Ω net.![]()
I wonder if it will be as much fun to work with as R41? I've done one R41 coil.just ordered 16', Grade 1 Ti, 24g, .44Ω/inch.
I wonder if it will be as much fun to work with as R41? I've done one R41 coil.![]()
I wonder if it will be as much fun to work with as R41? I've done one R41 coil.![]()
R41 not good to work with?
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