Rayon Wick - Better Flow, Flavor, Longevity, and Nic Hit!! - Pt.2

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VictorViper

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Cotton for me always has a ton of juice left over in the tails when vaping a coil dry. I can vape Rayon bone dry, which is great for changing flavors.

I'm generally able to run my cotton completely dry, thanks to a simple "first burn" technique. I still prefer cotton in my Hadaly (open to rayon tips for that atty, as an aside).

I'm not sure if this is well established or not, but I have never seen it mentioned: the first time install a fresh wick, do the following:

1) Soak the coil section only and then GENTLY cook dry at low wattage

2) Drip onto the coil very slowly until the tails saturate

3) Cook that mother dry. Don't vape it, just run it at your intended wattage until the cotton runs clean. If you're doing it right it will seem impossible that you aren't burning the wick. DO NOT go nuts, coils should stay at vape-appropriate temps.

By this point your cotton should be almost entirely dry, unburnt, and the magic part: your tails should look totally different. Kind of spongy and wispier. Now when you drip/squonk the tails will just devour your juice and will feed your coil much more readily.

I'm not sure why this is so effective, and I am assuming what's actually important here is simply ensuring the first saturation gets immediately vaped dry (so vape that juice if you like), but assuming I've wicked correctly for my coil, I'll vape that thing well past the point where it seems like I'd get anything from it.

I hope this wasn't too confusing. It's such a simple but critical step, and I always do it.
 

halfempty

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I took it apart again, kinda tugged on the coil, pushed a little, bumped it here and there, ohm's didn't budge, so I don't think it's a bad connection. I locked the ohm's, I now have the temp set at 220F, 7.5 watts. So far it's doing good.
Check to make sure the bottom positive pin on the RBA is tight. Stick a small screwdriver in one of the air holes and hold onto the build deck while you tighten the bottom pin.

That one has gotten me a couple of times.
 

TrollDragon

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I'm generally able to run my cotton completely dry, thanks to a simple "first burn" technique. I still prefer cotton in my Hadaly (open to rayon tips for that atty, as an aside).

I'm not sure if this is well established or not, but I have never seen it mentioned: the first time install a fresh wick, do the following:

1) Soak the coil section only and then GENTLY cook dry at low wattage

2) Drip onto the coil very slowly until the tails saturate

3) Cook that mother dry. Don't vape it, just run it at your intended wattage until the cotton runs clean. If you're doing it right it will seem impossible that you aren't burning the wick. DO NOT go nuts, coils should stay at vape-appropriate temps.

By this point your cotton should be almost entirely dry, unburnt, and the magic part: your tails should look totally different. Kind of spongy and wispier. Now when you drip/squonk the tails will just devour your juice and will feed your coil much more readily.

I'm not sure why this is so effective, and I am assuming what's actually important here is simply ensuring the first saturation gets immediately vaped dry (so vape that juice if you like), but assuming I've wicked correctly for my coil, I'll vape that thing well past the point where it seems like I'd get anything from it.

I hope this wasn't too confusing. It's such a simple but critical step, and I always do it.
Thanks, I have never done that and will give it a try next time. There are some RDA's that I still like cotton in, because trying to get a tight rayon core is too much of a PiTA.

I have a 3mm 28gx2/34g fused clapton in my Hadaly. I don't thin the tails, just bring them straight out and down to just barely touch the deck. I squonk it on the DB2 so there is always fresh juice just a little squeeze away. ;)
 
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TrollDragon

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I took it apart again, kinda tugged on the coil, pushed a little, bumped it here and there, ohm's didn't budge, so I don't think it's a bad connection. I locked the ohm's, I now have the temp set at 220F, 7.5 watts. So far it's doing good.
I think you still have a problem with the build or something loose causing the resistance to rise and throw off your baseline (cold coil) resistance. What TC mod are you using? A setting of 220F will not produce any vapor on any of my gear, it's not even hot enough to get PG to it's boiling point. Whenever I see a a post claiming a good vape anywhere below 380F, there is a usually a problem and the TC is definitely not working as it should.

Some mods don't care when the baseline resistance is incorrect and they just keep putting out power letting you think it is working when it is actually not.
 

VictorViper

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Thanks, I have never done that and will give it a try next time. There are some RDA's that I still like cotton in, because trying to get a tight rayon core is too much of a PiTA.

I have a 3mm 28gx2/34g fused clapton in my Hadaly. I don't thin the tails, just bring them straight out and down to just barely touch the deck. I squonk it on the DB2 so there is always fresh juice just a little squeeze away. ;)

Imgur image doesn't seem to want to embed, but link below for reference photo. Compared to other folks' wicks I see out and about, mine always seem much nicer after use.

Dry Cotton Dry Cotton
yiAHM
 

Hoggy

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There are some RDA's that I still like cotton in, because trying to get a tight rayon core is too much of a PiTA.

For those rda's, I simply don't pack the coil tightly. Maybe others find differently, but personally I think the stated need to overpack the coils is overemphasized/overrated.

Like with my fleet of authentically challenged Marquis.. I'll just use whatever works best. I don't notice any difference from not having tightly packed rayon, myself.
 

Mactavish

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I think you still have a problem with the build or something loose causing the resistance to rise and throw off your baseline (cold coil) resistance. What TC mod are you using? A setting of 220F will not produce any vapor on any of my gear, it's not even hot enough to get PG to it's boiling point. Whenever I see a a post claiming a good vape anywhere below 380F, there is a usually a problem and the TC is definitely not working as it should.

Some mods don't care when the baseline resistance is incorrect and they just keep putting out power letting you think it is working when it is actually not.

Spot on. I vape higher then 400f, on my DNA mods, but when using most Joyetech mods, even my new Primo Mini, the stock setting for SS316, is still incorrect and I have to go below 400f as the vape is hotter.
 

TrollDragon

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It's a Billet Box. Rev 4B
Authentic or SXK? Is it a DNA40, DNA60 or SKX 70W? The DNA40 will only TC Ni200 wire, it will not work properly trying to TC SS wire. The DNA60 will work with all the TC wires and the SXK 70W is supposedly the same as the Asmodus Ohmsmium (GX-80-f Chip), which I have no idea about.
 

TrollDragon

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Spot on. I vape higher then 400f, on my DNA mods, but when using most Joyetech mods, even my new Primo Mini, the stock setting for SS316, is still incorrect and I have to go below 400f as the vape is hotter.
As long as it's in the neighborhood it's all good. There are many variants of SS316L wire, so it's hard to say what the stock SS316 TCR values the non DNA chip mods are using. Adjustments will always be needed for TCR, temp or power settings on those mods.
 
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TrollDragon

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Imgur image doesn't seem to want to embed, but link below for reference photo. Compared to other folks' wicks I see out and about, mine always seem much nicer after use.

Dry Cotton Dry Cotton
yiAHM
Looks good.

For imgur I always use the Direct link URL to paste in the picture box.
LArxYdRl.jpg
 

TrollDragon

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For those rda's, I simply don't pack the coil tightly. Maybe others find differently, but personally I think the stated need to overpack the coils is overemphasized/overrated.

Like with my fleet of authentically challenged Marquis.. I'll just use whatever works best. I don't notice any difference from not having tightly packed rayon, myself.
I have always pulled the Rayon tight in the coils since the first use. I'll try it a little looser and see what happens, but it goes against Rayonati scripture. :eek:
 

oplholik

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Authentic or SXK? Is it a DNA40, DNA60 or SKX 70W? The DNA40 will only TC Ni200 wire, it will not work properly trying to TC SS wire. The DNA60 will work with all the TC wires and the SXK 70W is supposedly the same as the Asmodus Ohmsmium (GX-80-f Chip), which I have no idea about.

Auth. DNA40. Ok, you solved it. I think I knew that and forgot I guess. Thank you.:facepalm:
 

Fozzy71

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jj_9

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Hi all !

finally, seems I found a place that ships to europe.
(at least they took my money and told me they will ship)
2 cons :
1 - shipping more expensive than product shipped
2 - only 3 lbs package available

Well finally not .. they sent me a message because they don't ship international under 250$ ...

regards
JJ
 
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markfm

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For kicks I checked - First class mail large envelope international from the US to France is about $13, for a 15" x 12" x 3/4" envelope, up to 1 pound (I picked a random total weight). Very rough guess is that without compressing it that would hold around 8m of cellucotton [emoji5]

I take it the shop in the UK that sells 1m lengths isn't worth trying?
 
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awsum140

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I just sent a sample to England in a small, say 5x7, bubble wrap envelope. I didn't measure the actual length, but I'd guess somewhere in the vicinity of 10 meters. I did compress it, in the baggy inside the envelope. Postage was about $12+USD.
 
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