First read that and thought "why's Delores getting warty faced. What the hell is warty face anyway?"Does anyone have one of these? Saw it today and got all wanty faced.
LYKAN diamond brass-590
First read that and thought "why's Delores getting warty faced. What the hell is warty face anyway?"
Me, too! I'm such a stick-in-the-mud, I don't even know when I'll try it out, but I'm ever so glad I'm going to have the chance. Never thought it would happen.Hope you love it!
Lovely eyes.Posting a pic of my ex mother in law so you know what a ''warty'' face looks like:
View attachment 907963
My ex wife must be your ex wife's sisterPosting a pic of my ex mother in law so you know what a ''warty'' face looks like:
View attachment 907963
Ok... from your description there are a few things for you to check on your 16mm Dvarw.
From Ange's Blog post I don't know which wicking method you used.
Did you use the Bunny Ear method???
The Bunny Ear method is by far the easiest of all.
The wick in my pic below is the Vapdivrr method. You can see my wick is completely covering both of the juice holes on the chimney.
The Bunny Ear method will do the same.
View attachment 907753
Your wick should be fully covering the juice holes. Like so...
View attachment 907755
If there is ANY open space between the wick tails and the juice holes you will experience flooding.
Also, the chimney and top cap need to be properly mated and installed on the build deck. If those components are not properly installed the RTA will flood.
View attachment 907757
You posted that you are using a 2.5mm ID coil. IMO that is too big for the 16mm Dvarw. Can it be done, sure. Is it ideal for optimal performance on any 16mm RTA? Not in my opinion.
A 2mm ID coil is optimal on the 16mm Dvarw (and in some cases on the 22mm MTL Dvarw). From the photo you posted in your build thread the 2.5mm ID coil leaves almost little to no room between the posts.
I think you would have a more successful experience going with a 2mm ID coil.
As far as tightening the tank components... finger tight is the rule for all RTA's. No RTA components need to be "gorilla" tight.
Lastly, you may have experienced flooding if you didn't have enough wick in the coil. When you install your cotton and move it side-to-side in the coil you should feel resistance. If your wick is freely moving in the coil then you didn't use enough cotton.
Wicking an RTA is a total feel thing. The general rule of thumb is "too loose, you will get flooding" OR "too tight, you will get dry hits". There is a balance that only you can find which will work perfectly. You will only learn that balance by doing.
When I wick any RBA I go with a "tighter" resistance over "loose" resistance. My fingers know the "feel" of how much wick to use and how it should feel in the coil.
I know that is a lot of info to digest but I wanted to be as thorough as possible.
Good luck and lemme know how it goes. You got this!
Just like you said have to feel itOk... from your description there are a few things for you to check on your 16mm Dvarw.
From Ange's Blog post I don't know which wicking method you used.
Did you use the Bunny Ear method???
The Bunny Ear method is by far the easiest of all.
The wick in my pic below is the Vapdivrr method. You can see my wick is completely covering both of the juice holes on the chimney.
The Bunny Ear method will do the same.
View attachment 907753
Your wick should be fully covering the juice holes. Like so...
View attachment 907755
If there is ANY open space between the wick tails and the juice holes you will experience flooding.
Also, the chimney and top cap need to be properly mated and installed on the build deck. If those components are not properly installed the RTA will flood.
View attachment 907757
You posted that you are using a 2.5mm ID coil. IMO that is too big for the 16mm Dvarw. Can it be done, sure. Is it ideal for optimal performance on any 16mm RTA? Not in my opinion.
A 2mm ID coil is optimal on the 16mm Dvarw (and in some cases on the 22mm MTL Dvarw). From the photo you posted in your build thread the 2.5mm ID coil leaves almost little to no room between the posts.
I think you would have a more successful experience going with a 2mm ID coil.
As far as tightening the tank components... finger tight is the rule for all RTA's. No RTA components need to be "gorilla" tight.
Lastly, you may have experienced flooding if you didn't have enough wick in the coil. When you install your cotton and move it side-to-side in the coil you should feel resistance. If your wick is freely moving in the coil then you didn't use enough cotton.
Wicking an RTA is a total feel thing. The general rule of thumb is "too loose, you will get flooding" OR "too tight, you will get dry hits". There is a balance that only you can find which will work perfectly. You will only learn that balance by doing.
When I wick any RBA I go with a "tighter" resistance over "loose" resistance. My fingers know the "feel" of how much wick to use and how it should feel in the coil.
I know that is a lot of info to digest but I wanted to be as thorough as possible.
Good luck and lemme know how it goes. You got this!
Beautiful Tank! ButPretty except for the plastic. That's a trend I just can't get on board with. Got my tcx rdta today and can't get the damn thing apart!