Bottom feeding RDTA. Brilliant.
Ok, dumb question time. I think I know the answer but I don't trust myself anymore.
The metal top on a squonk bottle can cause a short if the contact hits it, correct?
I like the Pulse bottle in the flawless but the top is uncomfortably close to the contact. I would assume a simple shrink wrap or electrical tape at that location would solve the problem?
The metal top on a squonk bottle can cause a short if the contact hits it, correct?
I like the Pulse bottle in the flawless but the top is uncomfortably close to the contact. I would assume a simple shrink wrap or electrical tape at that location would solve the problem?
no dumb questions,just answers.yes it will if you give it a path to ground.insutation between will not allow current to flow.
My experience:
With RTA's, be it a single coil or multi, you have to build it with a coil or coils that it was designed for. By that, I mean the tank was designed with both a minimum ID and maximum OD for the coil(s) that go into it. Try something different and you got trouble.
For example, I found out by accident that the Battlestar RTA was designed for a coil with a minimum ID of 3mm. Put anything 2.5mm or thinner in it, and there is no way to put enough cotton in the build to prevent leaking that also prevents dry hits. Exceeding the maximum design OD might get enough cotton in to address the leaking issue, but risks shorting out against the posts, deck, walls or ceiling of the chamber. Too fat of a coil also adversely affects flavor.
This means if you approach a Battlestar bound and determined to mount 2mm ID 26awg single wire you will get leaks. If you approach a Goblin with a 3mm coil you will get shorts. It doesn't matter if you've always built 3mm coils of single wire 26awg. Doesn't matter if it's always been 2.5mm ID Claptons. You either build to the device's specs or you get trouble.
I'm giving up on the Serpent Mini because the only coil ID that works without leaking is 2.5mm and that kills airflow, which "dooms" me to a tepid 22-25 Watts.
tl;dnr: Let's go to the video and see what kind of coil works best. Otherwise, we get mad and throw things.
With RTA's, be it a single coil or multi, you have to build it with a coil or coils that it was designed for. By that, I mean the tank was designed with both a minimum ID and maximum OD for the coil(s) that go into it. Try something different and you got trouble.
For example, I found out by accident that the Battlestar RTA was designed for a coil with a minimum ID of 3mm. Put anything 2.5mm or thinner in it, and there is no way to put enough cotton in the build to prevent leaking that also prevents dry hits. Exceeding the maximum design OD might get enough cotton in to address the leaking issue, but risks shorting out against the posts, deck, walls or ceiling of the chamber. Too fat of a coil also adversely affects flavor.
This means if you approach a Battlestar bound and determined to mount 2mm ID 26awg single wire you will get leaks. If you approach a Goblin with a 3mm coil you will get shorts. It doesn't matter if you've always built 3mm coils of single wire 26awg. Doesn't matter if it's always been 2.5mm ID Claptons. You either build to the device's specs or you get trouble.
I'm giving up on the Serpent Mini because the only coil ID that works without leaking is 2.5mm and that kills airflow, which "dooms" me to a tepid 22-25 Watts.
tl;dnr: Let's go to the video and see what kind of coil works best. Otherwise, we get mad and throw things.
Happy Sunday Shiny people! Plan on playing with the Hunter Royal X RDA today. Never got a chance yesterday.
If anyone has any tips send them my way. I’ve alrea watched a couple of build videos.
I’m still deciding whether I want to build it with a simple single coil or use 2 Pre-built coils I have. Decisions Decisions....
Have fun playing with your shinys!!
If anyone has any tips send them my way. I’ve alrea watched a couple of build videos.
I’m still deciding whether I want to build it with a simple single coil or use 2 Pre-built coils I have. Decisions Decisions....
Have fun playing with your shinys!!
hope it's ok to state the obvious.if you have a good vape in hand, makes building another a lot easier.
hope it's ok to state the obvious.if you have a good vape in hand, makes building another a lot easier.
You bet i do
with some cinnamon roll juice 
If you are building using a smaller coil and find leaking due to insufficient wick in the channels...just take a tad extra wick and tuck it under your wick in each channel. Easy-peasy.
must have forgotten you hate smoking more.here is my burn tab https://vapenw.com/ipv-mini-30-watt-by-pioneer4you
The Bombertech Pindad and Cthulhu Gaia were BF RDTA's. I always wanted a Pindad but never picked one up, the black/ultem version looks very sharp.
https://www.bombertech.com/product/pindad-ss-driptank-ultemate-black/
GAIA RDTA (The balance of cloud and flavor) – CTHULHU MOD -Top Innovations for Vaping
Type +1 if you know
Type +2 if yours has this
if not then you're doing it wrong
just +1 or +2, please don't give it away
Type +2 if yours has this
if not then you're doing it wrong
just +1 or +2, please don't give it away
Picked the Gaia cheap in case I ever took up squonking. Noisy until you find the right build, good flavor but gets warm. Like the af options.
I passed on the Gaia as I figured it would be a really noisy beast. The same with the Serpent RDTA, lets take airflow and put a 90 hard bend in it, that wont be noisy AF... (and that's not short for airflow
)
If you stick to single wire builds 2-2.5mm it just has the standard whoosh I can live with. Bit tedious until you dial it in.I passed on the Gaia as I figured it would be a really noisy beast. The same with the Serpent RDTA, lets take airflow and put a 90 hard bend in it, that wont be noisy AF... (and that's not short for airflow
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