SX Zero 50w Clone

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roxynoodle

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I'm not having any problems on my sx mini m with the temp control.

I am having a problem with my Gus Estia suddenly deciding it doesn't want to work on any of my sx minis, and I don't know why. It does like my sx zero and Sig 100Ws!

I think I'm going to make it a custom mod with an sx350 chip. The DNA40s don't have enough power for it.

I'm debating actually grabbing another sx zero for the body and replacing the chip, or if I should just start from scratch. The Estia does look nice on the Zero.
 

Dampfsucht

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Received my Hotcig SS on Tuesday. Sleeve was a loose fit and needed to be squeezed. Bolt heads stick out beyond flush; haven't removed them or tried to tighten them up yet. Seems to me that the counter sinks were to shallow when manufactured. VTC4 battery fit easily with brass screw backed out. Need to decide between sanding the bolt heads or making the countersink deeper; sanding bolts would be easier. USB charging is working and light goes from red to green when fully charged. Going to probably wrap the sleeve with black 3M carbon fiber adhesive after some final squeezing. Took me several attempts of multiple clicks to figure out how to adjust the g-sensor. Fired 50 W right out of the box. Am pleased with this devise.


After 3 months of daily use it stopped working. Screen does not come on and atty doesn't fire when button is pushed; at least it didn't catch on fire. This had become my go to mod.

Anyone have any advice on opening the mod up to check wiring? I may be interested in replacing the chip as well. Could use some informative help on this, I'd like to get it working again.
 

SteamHead

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roxynoodle

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After 3 months of daily use it stopped working. Screen does not come on and atty doesn't fire when button is pushed; at least it didn't catch on fire. This had become my go to mod.

Anyone have any advice on opening the mod up to check wiring? I may be interested in replacing the chip as well. Could use some informative help on this, I'd like to get it working again.

Check all your solder points. Either the chip is dead or maybe a wire from the battery came off. If the chip is dead, you will need to desolder it, and then solder a new one in.

Mine is still going strong!

I happened to do a search on copper sleeves (still holding out hope lol), and was surprised to find this.
Yosne new product zero box mod clone 1:1 zero mod sleeve, View sleeve, Yosen Product Details from Guangzhou Yosen Electronic Technology Co., Ltd. on Alibaba.com

Anyone know if these will ever be available?

I think that gold one is plated SS.
 

spaceman84

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Not good Roxy! and there is me thinking they were looking after domestic customers :( I actually had to fix 2 boards myself and that involved replacing some surface mount components which I would not want to do again! There is a whole storm going on with Yihi and accusations there temp protection just doesn't work. Its still a better option for me I could never trust a DNA40 board I tried but all faith in any reliability has gone and after spending over $2000 on boards and mods nobody could accuse me of not trying!

The SX300C boards were cheap which possibly could explain the failure rate I am a bit edgy on using them after various reports but never seen a SX350 fail in fact i have just bought today another 350 custom made 3D printed box mod with a Samsung 25R for $65 which is a steal.

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Did you reuse some of the hardware from the Zero?
 

ddarlington24

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I've really been looking at these zero modz lately i guess the newest releases now have temperature control. Now that really interests me been hearing great things about Tc.

But after further in depth research and looking in this thread in turns out there are so many makers of this zero mod clone 1:1 TC the list is rather long yosen sxk infinite geeco hotcig etc.. I guess the question is which one is the best most reliable and I'm not including the FT one the quality looks awful just from the press photos.

My initial thought is either yosen, and sxk
 

roxynoodle

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The Yosen, Infinite and Geeco are all the same mod, and are made by SXK. The machining on the SXKs is very nice. Their first attempts at making chips weren't so good (DNA30). Not that they died, but weren't so accurate and a long delay from sleep to firing. And no memory so everytime you changed your battery, you had to remember to reset it. Now there are some using the sx300 chip, and I guess their newer chips with the tc are pretty good.

The Hotcigs are all over the map. Some are well made, and some aren't. My one that set on fire was gorgeous. My one that is working has workmanship issues on the body.
 

ZeroOhm

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Did you reuse some of the hardware from the Zero?
Yes I only keep the ones that are OK I have bought and sold so many and just mod them with genuine boards when I have the time.
I've really been looking at these zero modz lately i guess the newest releases now have temperature control. Now that really interests me been hearing great things about Tc.

But after further in depth research and looking in this thread in turns out there are so many makers of this zero mod clone 1:1 TC the list is rather long yosen sxk infinite geeco hotcig etc.. I guess the question is which one is the best most reliable and I'm not including the FT one the quality looks awful just from the press photos.

My initial thought is either yosen, and sxk
I got 3 TC DNA Zeros 50 & 60W all were crap, there are a few threads here and even a spreadsheet to calculate the correct adjustment as they all read the resistance wrong.

All the Geeco Zero reviews I saw before I bought one failed to mention the resistance is incorrect and it seems all the recent 60W TC mods Vaporshark, Zero and Flask clones all use the same clone board and suffer the same problem.

I have given up on the DNA clones you are just throwing money at the Chinese they might get it right by the 3rd generation. The best clone boards I have tried have been the KX40D&50D which ironically I tried back in Feb was my first minus the cana TC with a RMY board which simply didn't work. Everything since then has been buggy junk.

The easiest thing todo to get a reliable and accurate mod is buy one and fit a genuine evolv board. Of course there are Chinese alternatives that have genuine evolv boards like the Hcigar HB40 or soon to be released VT40 even the Lost Vape Tan Plus is a killer mod for the money been running one for a couple of weeks best mod I ever owned all things considered.

I do like the Zeros I just like C frame mods as I am left handed and they feel good in the hand. I have one ready to mod with an evolv, but I have to test each evolv board for 100 hours as they have been so bad for problems, but once you have one that works you don't have reliability or vaping issues like pretty much all of the clone TC boards.

In my opinion for the money the IPV4 is one of the best I tried but of course that uses a YiHi SX330 V4S.

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ddarlington24

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Thanks for all the great info didn't even know about the resistance issues. I guess my main reason was the appeal of the c- frames they do look brilliant.

As for say taking out the stock chip and using say the evolve dna 40d now i would consider myself pretty adequate at soldering and such. My question relates to the button orientation on the chip matching the layout on the c-frame. The dna would match but how about the yihi or the kx50d.
 
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ddarlington24

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I see you're using dna 40's in your zeros for tc do they fit right in place or are you having to use a cradle for the chip. Another question i had is are you using the onboard buttons on the dna or just wiring them directly to the chip.

If you could can you post a pic of the inside with the dna 40 and how you placed the board /screen
 

ZeroOhm

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I see you're using dna 40's in your zeros for tc do they fit right in place or are you having to use a cradle for the chip. Another question i had is are you using the onboard buttons on the dna or just wiring them directly to the chip.

If you could can you post a pic of the inside with the dna 40 and how you placed the board /screen
Yes that's the natural refit route for the DNA Zero's I reused everything after modding these later ones come with cradles so its a bit easier, there is almost no room so you need some previous experience as it is tricky modding.

Building a Hana clone for instance is like child's play compared to these!

Yes I am using the switch board I had to shorten it and cut some traces as the evolv 40 uses separate GNDs for each switch and all the clone boards I have seen use a common GND, you maybe able to simply connect straight to the pads on the switchboard. But I wired directly from the switches to the evolv board.

I will try and take some pictures but I really don't want to take it apart for fear of breaking the screen anyone that mods will tell you how they broke a screen on a DNA and I broke the screen on the Infinite TC DNA I posted previously simply by opening the Zero! Thankfully I replaced the screen so all is ok.

I had some time today got a Yosen SX Zero done in 2-3 hours. Needs a few tweaks it works fine and I flashed the board to V2.6 and all is well.

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ZeroOhm

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I had some adjustments to make on the switches something like a few thousands of a mm so they sit flush and no rattle. As I said these boxes take a lot to get right!

Here is a picture of the modded infinite Zero hope it helps.

I didn't use an Evolv charge board as I don't like the red/green status leds and there 500mAh charging. So I reused the USB charge board from the clone as it does 1amp charging and has a nice blue led when charging is complete

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ddarlington24

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Thanks for the details ZeroOhm, i can tell very tight space inside the zero housings. You seem very experienced in replacing the stock chips. i just ordered mine should be here soon however long it takes from
China. Thanks for those pictures inside of the zero. :thumb

Do you notice a difference in battery-life compared to the yihi-350/or the clone china dna compared to the evolve dna per say .
 

ZeroOhm

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Thanks for the details ZeroOhm, i can tell very tight space inside the zero housings. You seem very experienced in replacing the stock chips. i just ordered mine should be here soon however long it takes from
China. Thanks for those pictures inside of the zero. :thumb

Do you notice a difference in battery-life compared to the yihi-350/or the clone china dna compared to the evolve dna per say .

The SX350s have always been pretty good been running them a while March 2014 I think I got my 1st 30W board. Battery life about the same as a DNA but it's hard to tell. The clone DNA boards all seem to be more power hungry than the evolv. The SX300C seemed the same as a SX350 but I never used for more than 1 charge.

I come from an electronics background and like to mod that's my real interest in vaping and with all the Chinese clone boxes you have to mod them if you want them to last!;)

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Dampfsucht

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Check all your solder points. Either the chip is dead or maybe a wire from the battery came off. If the chip is dead, you will need to desolder it, and then solder a new one in.


After opening up the mod, removing all the hot glue and checking all the solder points, I reassembled the 510 connector into the C-frame, installed a battery and was able to get the SX300 chip to work again. Got everything back together now with minimal amount of hot glue holding the chipset in place. I was able to deepen the countersinks on the C-frame; screws are now flush. Vaping again with a Rose topper. Almost ordered an SX350 chip, but I'll hold off on that now that it's working. Did I say this has become my favorite mod.

I also ordered a Sigelei 150. I doubt that I'll ever vape at full power with it, however the extended battery life will be welcomed. Need an RDA to go with it now. Currently have a Magma and a Patriot.
 
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ZeroOhm

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After opening up the mod, removing all the hot glue and checking all the solder points, I reassembled the 510 connector into the C-frame, installed a battery and was able to get the SX300 chip to work again. Got everything back together now with minimal amount of hot glue holding the chipset in place. I was able to deepen the countersinks on the C-frame; screws are now flush. Vaping again with a Rose topper. Almost ordered an SX350 chip, but I'll hold off on that now that it's working. Did I say this has become my favorite mod.

I also ordered a Sigelei 150. I doubt that I'll ever vape at full power with it, however the extended battery life will be welcomed. Need an RDA to go with it now. Currently have a Magma and a Patriot.
Glad you sorted it, i have seen some poor soldering on these so maybe you had one of those. I always check ever mod I get now!

The SX350 is a better board but there not cheap and if your SX300 is working and you happy all is good.

I do like the mod a lot feels great in the hand which is almost top of the list for me aesthetics, quality and usability. I had to many straight box mods now I want style there is less than a year left until the regulations change everything and current vaping will be illegal or owned by regulation, politics and big tobbaco.

So i am stockpiling mods I know the SX350 is reliable I have had one since March 2014 and I have seen none fail myself.

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ddarlington24

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Well what can i say it finally came..
aesthetically it looks pretty good but the usb port is really iffy doesn't really work unless i angle the cord but i doubt I'll be using the usb that much. At first sight it was smaller than I expected it to be, has pretty decent weight no issues with the 510 it seems to be what i would call pretty decent apart from that usb issue.
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