Tilemahos new rebuildable part (springomizer)

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notarobot

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First of all: my springomizer (2mm version) works flawlessly! Using it with GG4S and also tried with TC on SX mini M class.

glad you like it Sale and soon for Penny!
Imeo, when will Penny springomizer be available?

Also, what will the Penny springs be like? I think they need to be smaller than Tilemahos springs. With SS 302 and same wire thickness, this would mean smaller resistance. However, I know some Penelope users like to vape above 1Ω unregulated, some even use their Penny with eGo batteries, which requires around 1.4Ω at least. Did you think about Kanthal springs for Penelope springomizer to cover the 1-1.5Ω resistance range?
 

tazz

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Tazz, I guess Imeo was focusing on essentials, but there are other factors to the equation...

I think you should first make sure that the combination of 1 and 2 are accurate. I think that a bit too much cotton can translate into dry hits easily, same as a bit too less... You need to make sure you've found that perfect balance... This is specially necessary with this update.

Then, you could check other factors next... For instance... Is you air intake regulated too tight, because if it is, then this may be responsible for dry hits in combination with effortless drags, if that is the case. Inversely, if air is too open and you are not inhaling strong enough, liquid may not drain by the Venturi-like effect which usually compensates for the lack of capillary action... So it's always a combination of factors. Play with regulating air and inhaling techniques here..

OTOH, you expect things to work out of the box and avoid any learning curve or process to it, especially because of the plug-and-play factor Imeo promised! I get it, haaaa! LOL And you are somewhat frustrated, in return, being experienced and that, I imagine! We have all been there... Sometimes, it's simply Gods of Vapor who are against us, and they simply won't grant us the vape Ways; one day we wake up and atties simply work for no observable reason again... And no matter how silly this may sound and even at the risk of coming across as a clown, I think attitude may also play an important role, so just relax...! ;)

I mean, once we relax we'll very likely be able to figure what's wrong easily!

Last but not least... Maybe you should try this... Just a thought! Listen... Cut the cotton just flush but not with the outside threads rather with the very inside concavity of channels or hole... Even a bit on the inside... And see what happens...
This idea could work best accompanied by a harder pull as you drag... Try it and tell us!

=)

PS: The plug-and-play factor is there, just that maybe Imeo miscalculated a thing or two! Haaaaaaaa! Just kidding! But he kind of did. LOL But jokes aside, just think of it this way... Next update will certainly be 100% ready, and this is, say, 80%...? So fair enough! Relax and work it out, simply 20 per cent to go, almost there Tazz, you'll figure it!

PS Bis= BTW and just in case, you did try to lower the housing by replacing o-ring as Imeo suggested as a second option to change housing altogether, right? Cause this helps!
I understand that you are trying to help but don't make me out to be an idiot......I've been doing this a long time and exclusively use imeo's attys, as a matter of fact I think the tilemahos is the best atty ever made, it's my all day every day atty.
 
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Sad Society

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When it comes to resistance. It's all about the wire in between point A to point B.
The wire touching the contact points don't really count. The number of wraps, the gauge of the wire, and the type of wire (kanthal, nichrome, titanium) is what matters.
I have to admit that the space is limited in between the Springomizer. If you want a higher resistance you have to squeeze the coils closer together to get more wire in between the point A and point B area (positive and negative). The result is a tighter coil. You could lower the gauge to something like 32g for a higher resistance.

I haven't had any problems with the Springomizer. My rebuilding time has been cut down by nearly a third....Meaning that the old way with screws took me nearly three times longer.
 

tazz

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you don't need a new housing. just try using less wick and also really open up your juice control. i've been using mine almost all the way open. its wicking fine and i'm not getting any dry hits. and it doesnt leak either if you have the cotton just flush with the housing. and i'm using 90-100 VG juice
If you use your juice control all the way open then there is something wrong, what I mean is what's the sense of having a juice control if you have it all the way open. I'm sure that wasn't imeos plan, he has juice control for a reason.
 

imeothanasis

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BTW Will Penny's update be universal... Meaning V1 to V4... Or different ones...? Will there be maybe alternatives regarding the diameter of air conduct as with the first Springomizers...? Fill us in...!
I will try to make a universal update Revolver. I have to check the designs and see what I can do! :)
 

imeothanasis

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Well I have two V2's and :
1. I use as little cotton as possible
2. I always cut flush, even from before I got these
3. I'm running it at 1ohm

So it seems to me that since I don't have a V2+ housing and I'm still getting dry hits even after doing everything suggested that you are saying to use a V2+ housing and the only way for me to do that is to buy them.
They are not in stock buddy.
Also, do you open mouthpiece enough?
 

Sad Society

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I just rebuilt with the Springomizer and I am getting a little bit dry...nearly burned hits.
I blame this on using too much wick. I sort of crammed as much rayon as I could fit into the coil. I didn't have this problem before. I just wanted to see what would happen with more wick.
I also cut the wick at the edge of the top of the housing, leaving the channels open.
Easy fix to just use less wick.
I don't think it the Springomizer's fault. I think it's all in the build of the coil, the amount of wick you are using and the way you cut the tail ends of the wick. Wick's like cotton and rayon will expand when juice is added. Leave some room for the wick to expand in the coil.
 

imeothanasis

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First of all: my springomizer (2mm version) works flawlessly! Using it with GG4S and also tried with TC on SX mini M class.


Imeo, when will Penny springomizer be available?

Also, what will the Penny springs be like? I think they need to be smaller than Tilemahos springs. With SS 302 and same wire thickness, this would mean smaller resistance. However, I know some Penelope users like to vape above 1Ω unregulated, some even use their Penny with eGo batteries, which requires around 1.4Ω at least. Did you think about Kanthal springs for Penelope springomizer to cover the 1-1.5Ω resistance range?
springs cant made of kanthal nota but the solution is easy. 0,3mm springs :)
 

monkkx

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Hi all, I'd like to know your tips&tricks to clean the gunk out of the SS springs. I vape some liquids that generate quickly a sticky gunk on the spring, faster than it would do on a titanium one. This gunk makes the vape unpleasant after a couple of days.
I tried to put the coils in an warm ultrasonic bath (water, soap, a bit of vinagre), with no success.
I tried the warm water, soap and a hard nail brush, it's a little bit better.
I tried scratching the gunk with a small knife or screwdriver: it works, but is a bit time consuming.
I tried also the boiling pure white vineager bath, not helping :(
so how you guys manage to clean gunk out of the spring, with minimal effort, and reasonnable frequency (not after each tank ;) )
 
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Sad Society

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Boom!
Just redid my Springomizer. I did have too much wick.
I used the same coil and used less wick.

Way more flavor and no more dry burning hits.

It's all in the build guys...not the Springomizer fault.

I've been reading the comments and testing this build...no more dry hits with using less wick.
 

leemc37

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Hi all, I'd like to know your tips&tricks to clean the gunk out of the SS springs. I vape some liquids that generate quickly a sticky gunk on the spring, faster than it would do on a titanium one. This gunk makes the vape unpleasant after a couple of days.
I tried to put the coils in an warm ultrasonic bath (water, soap, a bit of vinagre), with no success.
I tried the warm water, soap and a hard nail brush, it's a little bit better.
I tried scratching the gunk with a small knife or screwdriver: it works, but is a bit time consuming.

so how you guys manage to clean gunk out of the spring, with minimal effort, and reasonnable frequency (not after each tank ;) )
I use very fine emery cloth to clean the hard gunk off mine, the juice I use is a coil killer and it won't come off unless I do it this way.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Sad Society

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Hi all, I'd like to know your tips&tricks to clean the gunk out of the SS springs. I vape some liquids that generate quickly a sticky gunk on the spring, faster than it would do on a titanium one. This gunk makes the vape unpleasant after a couple of days.
I tried to put the coils in an warm ultrasonic bath (water, soap, a bit of vinagre), with no success.
I tried the warm water, soap and a hard nail brush, it's a little bit better.
I tried scratching the gunk with a small knife or screwdriver: it works, but is a bit time consuming.

so how you guys manage to clean gunk out of the spring, with minimal effort, and reasonnable frequency (not after each tank ;) )
I don't really re-use my coils. I like to make new coils with each build. I use rayon wick and I also use strongly flavored ejuice that I make myself... I mean my ejuice flavoring is probably a little stronger than what you could normally buy if you were to buy ejuice from a vendor, and that is what gunks up the coil.
Anyways, for me with the right build, I can have my coils last up to two weeks.
 
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monkkx

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I use very fine emery cloth to clean the hard gunk off mine, the juice I use is a coil killer and it won't come off unless I do it this way.
that's a nice one ... more efficient than the brush :)
I'm still looking for the ultimate lazy-... method ... is there some products that could chemicaly disolve the gunk in a bath?
 

monkkx

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I don't really re-use my coils. I like to make new coils with each build. I use rayon wick and I also use strongly flavored ejuice that I make myself... I mean my ejuice flavoring is probably a little stronger than what you could normally buy if you were to buy ejuice from a vendor, and that is what gunks up the coil.
Anyways, for me with the right build, I can have my coils last up to two weeks.

Throwing away the spring defeats its reusablility, so I'd like to find a way to make them look like new. My question is really on how to clean a spring, independently of the build lifespan (I use my tilemahos on a Davi extreme v2 in temp control mode: 17.5W/240 celcius degree ... thick VG juices like lazarus vintage last 2 days max)
 

taxnail

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I have the mouth piece all the way open, till you can see the bottom of the wick plus a little bit more

I don't understand that. Vaping with aprox. 1 Ohm, I barely open my Liquid Control more than 2 turns. Often I need only a half turn.
If your vape is fine this way, do so.
But in my opinion you could try to use less wick to get better results.
 

Sad Society

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Throwing away the spring defeats its reusablility, so I'd like to find a way to make them look like new. My question is really on how to clean a spring, independently of the build lifespan (I use my tilemahos on a Davi extreme v2 in temp control mode: 17.5W/240 celcius degree ... thick VG juices like lazarus vintage last 2 days max)
I understand what you're saying.

I guess I just don't care about a piece of wire that I got for pennies, that I have vaped on for two weeks. A regular cigarette cost much more and a regular cigarette lasts for two minutes, not two weeks.
 

tazz

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I don't understand that. Vaping with aprox. 1 Ohm, I barely open my Liquid Control more than 2 turns. Often I need only a half turn.
If your vape is fine this way, do so.
But in my opinion you could try to use less wick to get better results.
I am using less wick, believe me I've tried from what I would consider normal wicking to if I blow on the wick it would come out of the spring with no success and I use at least 90% VG juices.
 
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