Titanium wire, vaping and safety

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cigatron

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I'm using Rio Grande 24g Ti and Unkamen Ti for all other gauges.

Wire diameter is slightly variable for all wires based on die wear and the specific batch and is of no consequence if one builds to an acceptable resistance in my opinion.

Duane

Agreed, I don't measure wire for perfection anymore. I mic it to ensure it's close to the correct gauge I ordered and wind away. I use SE to determine build parameters and don't mind if it reads .0X higher or lower than spec.
 
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BigEgo

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BigEgo
1.
I generally use slightly spaced coils. The primary reason is that there seems to be less "gunk" build up with time. I get the feeling that I also get slightly better high temperature control. I guess the bottom line is that spaced coils seem to work more reliably for me.

2.
I do a minimal amount of temp pulsing with a new coil just to drive off residual organics. There's usually a very slight wisp of smoke for a second or so from burning organics. If I'm using a DNA 200 set a TCR of half normal and adjust the temp so that the coil is barely visible in a dark room otherwise I set 600F and do multiple short pulses.

3.

I do NOT believe there is any nano particle transfer during normal vaping and if there were I wouldn't worry about it. The whole issue has been overblown based on misunderstanding in my opinion. I try to avoid formation of thick / spalling oxide because it "eats the coil" over time and I see no reason to consume coil material and shorten the life of the coil.

4. Thin oxide layers on titanium are extremely adherent and will not spall during normal vaping. If titanium is continuously exposed to high temperatures ( well above our vaping temperatueres) the oxide will continue to grow thicker and there will be some detectable inward diffusion of oxide but this isn't an issue at our vaping temperatures

5.

If I do overdo things and get a little white flaky oxide on a titanium oil I wash it away and vape on. The coil is primarily affected by loss of a tiny bit of titanium metal. There's no reason to panic and replace an oxidized coil under normal circumstances.

6.

I don't have a lot of experience with stainless steels. I've experimented with 430 (and several NIFe alloys) but have seen no significant advantage over Grade 1 titanium. I've pretty much stopped considering stainless steels and will likely use titanium exclusively in the future. I feel the balance of properties with titanium coils for vaping is superior for my use and I like not having multiple wires in different mods so I don't have to remember multiple settings to get the performance I want.

Duane

Thanks, Duane. I agree the Ti02 issue is overblown. Everyone freaks out because IARC labels TiO2 as a "possible carcinogen" even though the literature they reviewed for their assessment clearly shows there is no evidence that TiO2 exposure increases cancer risks in humans. They are basing it off a couple of rodent studies and, I suppose, are being very cautious with their designation as a "possible carcinogen" (which tells us nothing since almost anything is "possible").

I will continue to lightly pulse my coils (to a blue hue) and vape away.
 

jackmormon

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BigEgo
1.
I generally use slightly spaced coils. The primary reason is that there seems to be less "gunk" build up with time. I get the feeling that I also get slightly better high temperature control. I guess the bottom line is that spaced coils seem to work more reliably for me.

2.
I do a minimal amount of temp pulsing with a new coil just to drive off residual organics. There's usually a very slight wisp of smoke for a second or so from burning organics. If I'm using a DNA 200 set a TCR of half normal and adjust the temp so that the coil is barely visible in a dark room otherwise I set 600F and do multiple short pulses.

3.

I do NOT believe there is any nano particle transfer during normal vaping and if there were I wouldn't worry about it. The whole issue has been overblown based on misunderstanding in my opinion. I try to avoid formation of thick / spalling oxide because it "eats the coil" over time and I see no reason to consume coil material and shorten the life of the coil.

4. Thin oxide layers on titanium are extremely adherent and will not spall during normal vaping. If titanium is continuously exposed to high temperatures ( well above our vaping temperatueres) the oxide will continue to grow thicker and there will be some detectable inward diffusion of oxide but this isn't an issue at our vaping temperatures

5.

If I do overdo things and get a little white flaky oxide on a titanium oil I wash it away and vape on. The coil is primarily affected by loss of a tiny bit of titanium metal. There's no reason to panic and replace an oxidized coil under normal circumstances.

6.

I don't have a lot of experience with stainless steels. I've experimented with 430 (and several NIFe alloys) but have seen no significant advantage over Grade 1 titanium. I've pretty much stopped considering stainless steels and will likely use titanium exclusively in the future. I feel the balance of properties with titanium coils for vaping is superior for my use and I like not having multiple wires in different mods so I don't have to remember multiple settings to get the performance I want.

Duane

Hi Duane-

On #2, what do you set the TCR to on a DNA200 for a slight dry burn? I have been using 007 which is approximately double the actual TCR and 600F. It will pulse and then stop, burning everything off. I do see about 1 second of slight glowing even in a lit room. Am I doing it wrong...should the TCR be like 0018 or 0017 which is ~half? (I have also had luck pulsing in wattage mode at about 6W.) I kept a coil going for about 2 months but for some reason it burned up -- collapsed in on itself and and broke into two pieces when I used my TI DRY BURN preset on the DNA200 earlier today. I am thinking it was because I accidentally had the resistance locked in the dry burn mode but maybe I need to rethink the TCR thing!
 

druckle

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Jack

I misspoke...I set the TCR at about 2x the normal i.e. about 0.007 the same as you and use 250-300C

Balazsk developed the technique and posted it. He used TCR of 0.00725 and the temp to 300°C the coil will be about 600°C.

his settings gives a coil temperature of about 1112F which is a little higher than I think is necessary.

Sorry about the error. 2X TCR is about right. The slightly lower TCR and temp set reduce the temperature of the dry burn somewhat compared to Balazsk's original settings. I find I don't need more than 6-10 watts depending on the wire gauge.

I edited the original to correct my error.

Duane
 

BigEgo

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I am sure this is well known to most, but for noobs:

Rio Grande offers 50 ft. spools for $10. That's the best price I've seen for (USA made) Grade 1 Ti wire. The drawback is they only offer 24 gauge.

Unkamen offers all gauges from 12-32. Their prices vary by gauge (26 AWG is $10 for 35 ft.).

Lightning vapes wants $14 for 25 feet of 26 gauge, but only $10 for 25 feet of 20, 22, 24 gauge. This makes LV the worst of the three in price but still better than the "designer" wire companies.

Rio grande also offers 304 SS wire in 1 lb. spools (640 ft) for less than $30. So, if you are a 304 SS guy, you can have a wire supply to last you to the end of your natural life for just $30.

On the subject of overpriced wire, one funny anecdote is the owner of Craft Vapery (who now sells Titan Wires) made a blog post months ago where he described how to make a Ti build. In that post he said his preferred vendor was Unkamen. Since he started carrying Titan Wires (overpriced designer wire), he changed the blog post to say his preferred vendor is Titan Wires. The funny thing is that he didn't edit his blog post properly. It reads:

For starters, you need some wire. CRAFT does not currently sell Ti wire, so we get ours from jewelry suppliers. Our favorite so far is Titan Wires.

Oops. He forgot to take out the "jewelry supplier" comment. It used to read "Our favorite so far is Unkamen." That was one lazy blog post edit.

TL;DR -- Never buy vape accessories like wire and wick from vape shops. Unless you enjoy being ripped off.
 

JimScotty0

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Jack

I misspoke...I set the TCR at about 2x the normal i.e. about 0.007 the same as you and use 250-300C

Balazsk developed the technique and posted it. He used TCR of 0.00725 and the temp to 300°C the coil will be about 600°C.

his settings gives a coil temperature of about 1112F which is a little higher than I think is necessary.

Sorry about the error. 2X TCR is about right. The slightly lower TCR and temp set reduce the temperature of the dry burn somewhat compared to Balazsk's original settings. I find I don't need more than 6-10 watts depending on the wire gauge.

I edited the original to correct my error.

Duane
@druckle I have found that the Steam Engine's Nickel DH profile seems to meet the TCR value of .007036 which is pretty close to your suggested TCR and slightly less than @balazsk. Wouldn't that profile work then for dry burning Ti using 300C or 572F for a temperature setting? I am thinking of loading that CSV into my settings for my Dry Burn DNA200 profile 8.
 

balazsk

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@druckle I have found that the Steam Engine's Nickel DH profile seems to meet the TCR value of .007036 which is pretty close to your suggested TCR and slightly less than @balazsk. Wouldn't that profile work then for dry burning Ti using 300C or 572F for a temperature setting? I am thinking of loading that CSV into my settings for my Dry Burn DNA200 profile 8.

You can use that profile for dry burning.
300°C will be probably a bit high, I suppose to start at 250°C and increase the temperature a bit if it is necessary.
 

Mactavish

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@druckle I have found that the Steam Engine's Nickel DH profile seems to meet the TCR value of .007036 which is pretty close to your suggested TCR and slightly less than @balazsk. Wouldn't that profile work then for dry burning Ti using 300C or 572F for a temperature setting? I am thinking of loading that CSV into my settings for my Dry Burn DNA200 profile 8.

On DNA200 devices, I have found it best to TURN OFF all preheat settings for your custom "Titanium Dry-Burn" profile. I've added this to my written advise when asked about this topic.
 

druckle

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On DNA200 devices, I have found it best to TURN OFF all preheat settings for your custom "Titanium Dry-Burn" profile. I've added this to my written advise when asked about this topic.
Mactavish

I agree that it's best to turn off all preheat settings for the Ti dry burn procedure. I think it's better to softly approach the temperatures for the dry burn with multiple small pulses rather than hit the coil with a big power spike. I agree completely.

Duane
 
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JimScotty0

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Mactavish

I agree that it's best to turn off all preheat settings for the Ti dry burn procedure. I think it's better to softly approach the temperatures for the dry burn with multiple small pulses rather than hit the coil with a big power spike. I agree completely.

Duane
Yup, I had already turned off the preheating as you all had suggested. Ok, bring it down to a starting point of 250C/482F to start. So you all agree that the Steam Engine's Nickel DH profile is an easy workable solution to tell other DNA200 users for a Ti Dry Burn?
 

Mactavish

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Yup, I had already turned off the preheating as you all had suggested. Ok, bring it down to a starting point of 250C/482F to start. So you all agree that the Steam Engine's Nickel DH profile is an easy workable solution to tell other DNA200 users for a Ti Dry Burn?

But why use that CSV file in the first place. Simply create a new preset, name it "TI-DRY BURN", and manually enter the TCR of 0.0070? Then you don't need a CSV file at all, and can easily raise or lower it you want.
 

druckle

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But why use that CSV file in the first place. Simply create a new preset, name it "TI-DRY BURN", and manually enter the TCR of 0.0070? Then you don't need a CSV file at all, and can easily raise or lower it you want.
I use profile 8 for my Ti dry burn (well labeled with flame graphics).....keeping that option a long way away from the profiles I often use with the hope that I won't screw up some late night and accidentally select the Ti Dry Burn profile when I wanted something that wouldn't blow the top of my head off. :-x

Duane
 

JimScotty0

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But why use that CSV file in the first place. Simply create a new preset, name it "TI-DRY BURN", and manually enter the TCR of 0.0070? Then you don't need a CSV file at all, and can easily raise or lower it you want.
Very true, and I just figured out how to do that within EScribe and save it. lol Unlike my SXM which only takes one TCR value, the DNA200 lets you plot an entire curve so I had to figure out how to do that. :rolleyes:
 
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Mactavish

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I use profile 8 for my Ti dry burn (well labeled with flame graphics).....keeping that option a long way away from the profiles I often use with the hope that I won't screw up some late night and accidentally select the Ti Dry Burn profile when I wanted something that wouldn't blow the top of my head off. :-x

Duane

Here is the screen I use.

image.jpeg
 

Mactavish

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Ok, I got this .jpg loaded in but it's weird, the "load" window never displayed the image but when I searched it came up. Now I can't find it anywhere on my computer. Whaaaat? Anyway OT

I keep all my screen images in a single folder. Jpegs work as well as PNG's. B&W images, 128x32 pixels.
 
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