Some of the published science so far seems to agree with the notion that "broken in" coils are safer (e.g. emit fewer particles) than brand new coils. This paper specifically mentioned that used coils (I believe they said around 50 firing cycles) were cleaner than brand new coils (that is, new coils produced higher OX/ROS reactivity). Of course, these researchers also used an old first gen clearo for their dripping "test." Nonetheless, their results seem valid in regard to new/used coils.
Titanium wire, vaping and safety
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Some of the published science so far seems to agree with the notion that "broken in" coils are safer (e.g. emit fewer particles) than brand new coils. This paper specifically mentioned that used coils (I believe they said around 50 firing cycles) were cleaner than brand new coils (that is, new coils produced higher OX/ROS reactivity). Of course, these researchers also used an old first gen clearo for their dripping "test." Nonetheless, their results seem valid in regard to new/used coils.
Im using my titanium in my Goliath 2 also, honestly for a temp control build I'm really impressed! Using it at 40w and 170c but that's on a rDNA 40 which isn't really meant to use titanium out of the box. Dual 26g 8 wraps at 2.4mm came out at 0.27 ohm for me. Iv got to say I'm really unpressed! I use RTA mostly with the odd spot of dripping here and there should the mood take my fancy and with titanium it feels like your getting that full satisfaction vape that ni200 just doesn't really give. I started with kenthel as most others, moved to ni200, then did twisted ni200 & kenthel and since yesterday iv been using titanium. The vapour production is much more like what you get with kenthel but with all the benefits of temp protection and the taste I must say is really good! I think il be setting up some of my rda's with it
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I have been using Unk's 26 ga Ti as dual coils in a couple of velocity clones for several months now and have been very happy with the great flavor I get. I also have a Crown tank with the RBA using Ti and it is also very good. I wish I could find some ga's around the 22-24 area. Does anyone know where such heavier wire might be available?
Rio Grande for 24 gauge and thicker.
Great wire.
Soft, annealed very workable and vapes great.
Titanium Round Wire, 10-ft. Coil, 16-Ga., Soft
Duane
Great wire.
Soft, annealed very workable and vapes great.
Titanium Round Wire, 10-ft. Coil, 16-Ga., Soft
Duane
Get some 28 also. Or 2 strands of 30 twisted is same kcmil as 27. Two strands of 32 twisted is same (for practical purposes) as 29. I prefer 28 for vapor production over 26 but I've lately been using too few wraps (7). I plan to go back to as many wraps as will fit (around 13) to up surface area. I've obtained all my Ti from Unkamen but I'm toying with the idea of a large roll (of whatever it really is) from fastech. I plan to compare TCR once I can measure temp. Measuring temp is my current priority project.
I have a whole bunch of crazy experiments planned but the one that's tops on the list right now is to measure coil temp and temp of the vape itself passing through the drip tip. I'm interested to see how much of the power heats the juice and how much of that heat residually heats the vape stream itself to the users lips. I anticipate there is a measure of efficiency of the build in there somewhere. Measuring temp rise of the coil alone isn't enough. Just based on observation of my own vaping long enough, I'm convinced that a build that measurably absorbs x watts (by not exceeding phase change temp) isn't enough information. Some builds heat the juice with huge clouds of cool vape and some heat the juice and the vape stream with huge (but necessarily slightly lesser) clouds of warm to hot vape. I want to know not only how much power a build absorbs to reach a coil temp but also what is the temp of the resulting vape.
I pulse Ti to purple/blue. I can't remember the exact temp but I think it's around 600 F (my notes are not at hand at the moment). Anyway, purple to blue no more.
The DNA 200 can deliver a lot of power to the coil, likely a lot more than anyone is accustomed to. If the resistance decreases (like a contact coil where an area "close" suddenly touches and starts conducting due to heat expansion of the coil) while heating in preheat, it will get very hot (as you observed). When testing a new coil, reduce preheat time to zero and adjust watts to something reasonable. Once the coil is broken in for a few vapes and is behaving as expected, you can set the preheat where you want it. As you get more experience preoxidizing the wire and getting the wraps to avoid shorts, you can worry about this less. At first, be aware that if a couple of wraps short, the mod will still try to raise the resistance to its calculated hot value. It can and will deliver a lot of power trying to do that.
Unkamensupplies.com has just about any size you could want. they have from 14 to 32 I am jst trying the 26 and I really like it too.
Hmm OK thanks, interesting. I have recently been on a big brass kick. I got two Squape Rs clones, one Ivogo and one SXK. Both have stainless positive pins, which are M3 screws. The Ivogo pin was a bit too short, and I had wildly fluctuating TC resistance. So I bought some M3 x 16mm replacement screws, in both stainless and brass.
I then measured their resistance with my Chinese 4-wire 'micro' ohm reader, and was surprised at what I found. The resistance along the stainless M3 x 16mm was around 0.0025Ω. On the brass, it was 0.0002Ω. 12.5 times lower than the stainless.
So I then swapped out the SXK positive as well, and tested the real life benefit on my SX Mini M. A Titanium build that measured 0.421Ω with the stainless screw measured 0.418Ω with the brass - a 0.003Ω difference.
Now I am the first to admit that 0.003Ω is not a huge difference. It's not even 5°C of TC inaccuracy. But I'm of the view that every little helps, and it all adds up - if I can cut out as many little 0.003Ω's and similar in the atomizer, I will get the most accurate TC. And I further admit that part of this is just for the goal of having the most accurate TC, rather than it necessarily being a noticeable difference in the vapeThough there are places where one can cut out 0.01 or even more of inaccuracy, and those are more noticeable differences. And if in a single atomizer I could replace three 0.0025Ω stainless components with 0.0002Ω brass ones, then that could ultimately show a 0.01Ω of difference on the mod, and there we can be talking 10°C of improved accuracy.
(Interestingly the amount of inaccuracy from static resistance depends only on the base resistance of the coil, not the coil wire used - the higher the resistance of the coil, the less SR affects the accuracy. This is (yet another) reason why Titanium, Stainless Steel and Resistherm/NiFe30 are better than NI200 with its stupid low resistance. 0.01Ω of SR on a 0.10Ω Ni200 coil is 20°C inaccuracy, compared to 5°C inaccuracy with a 0.50Ω coil of Ti, SS or NiFe30.)
But in all that I didn't realise there could be an oxide risk. Although I do have a number of atomizers which already have brass parts, in particular my Aqua V2 clones and SE authentics which use an all brass positive path which touches the underside of the positive wire - it forms the 'floor' of the positive post, like I am trying to achieve with the Ubertoot. I haven't noticed any corrosion on those after a few months of use.
I will definitely keep an eye out for it, thanks. I dismantle and clean my atomizers regularly so if I see any discolouration I will stop using them in those places. I guess internal positive pins/paths will always be fine as long as they don't touch the coil itself.
Brass often contains a small percentage of lead but the way the alloy forms, the lead surface area is higher than its percentage would make you think and so the amount that leaches is higher than you'd anticipate based on the percentage of lead (Duane -- help lol). My thinking is, avoid brass in contact with juice or vape.
Absolutely. Brass is for water valves and Monkeys. It should have nothing to do with the wet side of vaping.
Actually I'd prefer stainless steel water valves but they aren't readily available and I only have two arms and two legs to give.
Duane
Oh by the way the Unkamen is still eating more juice and I have also noticed that it has a better taste at lower temps. One I am running at 255 one at 260 diff flavors. The Crazy Wire get the best flavor to me at 270 this in in Ni mode on the SXM. It's a mystery to me but I really like it. I also noticed that it didn't require a breakin period like the others tasted just like it does now with the first tank. Must be the etching from the acid wash. Only thing I can even guess. I don't have all the specifics like a lot of you do about metals. I really like it.
I wonder if Unkamen had any idea how popular their Ti wire would be in use for vaping since everything they sell is jewelry specific.
I know for a fact they were very surprised and confused at first when their sales of titanium wire increased dramatically.
Duane
After reading your post I decided to try out the GV2 with the Ti build on my Hana One DNA40 with the same settings you are using. It's a great vape on that as well, definitely glad I tried it out.
I have seen different values. One forum post claims 600F for the blue. A technical book on titanium claims 700F for yellow, 900F for blue and 1200F for dull grey.
According to the book below (should be hyperlinked)
*
700F = Straw Yellow
900F = Blue
1200F = Dull Gray
Materials Properties Handbook: Titanium Alloys
edited by Gerhard Welsch, Rodney Boyer, E.
*alloying elements and surface contaminants also influence color
*
700F = Straw Yellow
900F = Blue
1200F = Dull Gray
Materials Properties Handbook: Titanium Alloys
edited by Gerhard Welsch, Rodney Boyer, E.
*alloying elements and surface contaminants also influence color
here is a good yummy recipe for titanium vaping I have been using for about 6 months:
● Vaporflask or Waidea Chinese clone version
● 24 gauge Unkamen pure titanium wire from Etsy
● original Kanger Subtank using RBA deck
● genuine Koh Gen Do Japanese cotton
● ~0.20 -0.025 ohm coil = 5 wraps
● 18.8V
● 290° on temp protection
● 90% VG juice - DIY to save money
throw some WholeCig WTA in there if you really want a nice buzz!
● Vaporflask or Waidea Chinese clone version
● 24 gauge Unkamen pure titanium wire from Etsy
● original Kanger Subtank using RBA deck
● genuine Koh Gen Do Japanese cotton
● ~0.20 -0.025 ohm coil = 5 wraps
● 18.8V
● 290° on temp protection
● 90% VG juice - DIY to save money
throw some WholeCig WTA in there if you really want a nice buzz!
Hi everybody. Is it possible to dry burn titanium coils? Well, actually, I understand that everything is possible)) What is negative about titanium dry burning?
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