Well I used an 808/901 cartomizer center pin in a 510 atomizer connector and it works perfectly, I have not tried the battery to carto or atty swap but you are probably right there.
Dan
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Well I used an 808/901 cartomizer center pin in a 510 atomizer connector and it works perfectly, I have not tried the battery to carto or atty swap but you are probably right there.
Dan
i have a 510 suckaton. im gonna get some 901 and 801 connectors and do just the top part so im gonna be able to use different attys on it. 
Put a 801 connector on top and run and extended length tube up through it, then you can use a 801 to 901 or 801 to 510 adapter with it, just make sure the extension stops about 1/8" past the adapters mating center pin.
801 to 901
801 to 510
Heck you could even leave it a 510 and just get the adapters to 801 and 901 and do the same thing
510 to 901/808
510 to 801
Dan
801 to 901
801 to 510
Heck you could even leave it a 510 and just get the adapters to 801 and 901 and do the same thing
510 to 901/808
510 to 801
Dan
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I didn't see your post before I replied actually, I was replying to the above post. I have gotten to know about brass thoughI aggree that a window is needed to see the fluid level, just have to mill it out and glue a piece of clear plastic in place or buy one designed that way. Somthing like this:
Pill Fob Necklace With Window
Thanks,
Dan
That basic design would do it, but having 2 opposed windows for natural lighting, and to show off the needle. As for the high end fobs, that price isnt so bad either, most I've seen go for 20.
Ok, I stand corrected LOL zinc tin, hey, they both have "in" in them
Dan
instead of using adapters i wanna just use the apropriate connectors on the fob cap and just swicth caps and needles as i change my attys!!! know imma mean?
Sounds nice D, but careful with the HF fobs. I have 3 and can't mix and match, one is way out there in thread size. They aren't even the listed 1/2" OD either.
Ahhhhh, that would work!, just carry the extra caps with the different connectors pressed in. Now I get it
Dan
I have a correction to the tutorial, it was an 11/32" drill bit, not a 7/32" the numbers were hard to read, as the bit has been used alot! Sorry about the confusion. I did mic the connectors and they were .340 so a 21/64" or 11/32" will be really close. I discovered this when I bought new drill bits (7/32" and 15/64") and somthing did not add up, way to small. So I pulled out the mic and sure enough I was wrong, FlyerTom tried to correct me. Sorry about that Tom, that is what I get when I rush a tutorial.
I hope this sets it straight.
Dan
I hope this sets it straight.
Dan
hey, Dan! did you get my PM? i dont think the PM thing is working propperly since the new webside been up
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Scubabatdan said:
I knew that.
I also figured that haste contributed to the error(s). My other question in post #318 referred to the picture of what was described as a 510 cartomizer that had its center-post and seal removed, which it is not. Dan corrected this in a later post, stating it was an 808/901.
As for the drill size, I've used an 'R' drill, which is .338" in diameter with good results in the mods I've made - well, except for the time I misplaced the drills in their index and used the 'S' drill without looking at it first. A .348" diameter hole is just plain too big.
<Sigh> I'm at the age where mistakes become more frequent, but at least my Give-A-.... button doesn't get pushed.
I knew that.
I also figured that haste contributed to the error(s). My other question in post #318 referred to the picture of what was described as a 510 cartomizer that had its center-post and seal removed, which it is not. Dan corrected this in a later post, stating it was an 808/901.
As for the drill size, I've used an 'R' drill, which is .338" in diameter with good results in the mods I've made - well, except for the time I misplaced the drills in their index and used the 'S' drill without looking at it first. A .348" diameter hole is just plain too big.
<Sigh> I'm at the age where mistakes become more frequent, but at least my Give-A-.... button doesn't get pushed.
How in the blankety blank bleep do you disassemble an atomizer to scavenge the connector?! I have one atty that I can use to make this mod and I don't want to mess it up. I even tried to disassemble 2 510 cartos to get the connector and so far I've just plain buggered up both of em trying to get the atty connector off of them... Help?
microwave some water really really hot and dump yer dead atty in there and let sit for half a minute take it out and screw it into a dead batt (using some heating resistant gloves). get some plyers and rock the dang thing out
The atty connector is pressed into the tube with a bit of glue to keep it secure (HA). If you've got an old battery laying around, screw the atty onto it, dip it in some hot water for a spell, and then wiggle the tube back and forth slightly. It'll eventually separate from the connector. I'd use some gloves or pliers or something to keep from getting burns from the hot surfaces.
The key is having a battery connector to screw the thing into, otherwise you will booger the threads on the atty.
May the fortunes of the Mod God look down upon you.
The key is having a battery connector to screw the thing into, otherwise you will booger the threads on the atty.
May the fortunes of the Mod God look down upon you.
Yeah - what he said...
I gotta remember to refresh the page before I reply. MisterD beat me to it.
I gotta remember to refresh the page before I reply. MisterD beat me to it.
i always end up destroying the tube and everything else on the dead atty cos i have no patience! if you have a dead EMLR510 it comes out quite easy.
I'm the tube destroyer type too. 2 pairs of needle nose pliers and start peeling it open from the other end. First cutting/scoring with a dremel or file the tube around the connector until you see the vertical lines of the connector itself makes for a happy end. It's probably best to have a dedicated dead battery or adapter you can throw into a vise for the heat & wiggle method, but I like to vent some
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Thanks for the fast answer guys! The vape gods seem to have smiled on me because I don't have any fried atties. The sacrificial atty just has a nasty taste, making it highly desirable to scavenge. On the other hand, 510 cartos hate me, I've fried a good half dozen. 
I did vent a bit on the cartos... however, they are mangled but defiant and not giving up their connectors. I might try the venting method on the atty...
I'm feeling just a tad mean right now...
I don't have any dead batteries... 
I did vent a bit on the cartos... however, they are mangled but defiant and not giving up their connectors. I might try the venting method on the atty... I'm feeling just a tad mean right now...
I don't have any dead batteries...
Is there any way to strip the connectors from 510 cartos? After two failed attempts I started looking inside them closely. I can't tell if the solder for the wires also holds the connector inside the tube. There is quite a bit of solder in there for two measly, skinny wires...
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