Youde Goblin

[narrdarr]

don't fill it so fast.
and pull the bottle out of the tank between each squeeze.

if this is happening with a fresh wick. don't pre soak the wick so much

 

[MattyTny]

don't fill it so fast.
and pull the bottle out of the tank between each squeeze.

if this is happening with a fresh wick. don't pre soak the wick so much

Agreed. The tank needs to be filled slowly, too fast and you force liquid through the juice channels. Like narrdarr said, pull the bottle out between each squeeze and let the liquid go down toward the top when it starts to pool up. Don't squeeze your bottle too hard.

 

[Oxymandias]

Thanks for the suggestions on juice filling. I broke the tank down and was building coils, was gonna try these techniques, but when I was mounting the coils, one of the screws on the negative post stopped backing out. I kept turning it, but it wouldn't come up out of the post. I finally got it far enough out by putting some lateral force against it while I unscrewed, but then it wouldn't screw back down once I slid the coil leg through the hole. I took the coil off and just played with it for a minute. I tried inserting a screw from another post into this one, I tried pressing sideways like I did when I got it out, and nothing seemed to help. Has this happened to anyone else? Very odd problem, I would think the screw itself would strip, or the threads would become damaged before the actual post would, but instead it seems that the post threads seem to be damaged on the inside. This would've been my 3rd build on this deck, not like I put it through hell or anything. Suggestions?
Otherwise I'll take it back to this little shop in Houston and hope they're stand up peeps, and swap it out for me.
Thanks

 

[narrdarr]

Thanks for the suggestions on juice filling. I broke the tank down and was building coils, was gonna try these techniques, but when I was mounting the coils, one of the screws on the negative post stopped backing out. I kept turning it, but it wouldn't come up out of the post. I finally got it far enough out by putting some lateral force against it while I unscrewed, but then it wouldn't screw back down once I slid the coil leg through the hole. I took the coil off and just played with it for a minute. I tried inserting a screw from another post into this one, I tried pressing sideways like I did when I got it out, and nothing seemed to help. Has this happened to anyone else? Very odd problem, I would think the screw itself would strip, or the threads would become damaged before the actual post would, but instead it seems that the post threads seem to be damaged on the inside. This would've been my 3rd build on this deck, not like I put it through hell or anything. Suggestions?
Otherwise I'll take it back to this little shop in Houston and hope they're stand up peeps, and swap it out for me.
Thanks

i have this problem with one of my goblins., but i didn't force mine out. since you did it sounds like the threads maybe messed up now.

 

[lyspaere]

I haven't kept up with this thread at all, & I'm not too excited about the idea of combing the entire thing...

Had my v1.2 (or whatever it's called) about 2 weeks now. I love the flavor, & I'm getting just the right amount of vapor for my preferences. VERY satisfying vape!

I've seen a number of posts around teh interwebs about leaking from the fill screw, which I'm almost positive I haven't had. I'm suspicious that my leaking issue is coming straight from the center pin in the airflow channel... The AFC ring will have juice inside it, there's juice inside the air channel, & I have the common ring of juice around the base of the atty (if it isn't one of the few times it leaked 1/2 the 4.2ml's down the sides of my Sigelei).

Anybody else experienced leaking there? I don't 'think' my insulator is melted to nothingness, so I can't guess why/how it's leaking there.

Frustrating.


Goggling at world from my iPhone

 

[MattyTny]

I've done about three wicks on the Goblin so far. Two with KGD cotton and one with rayon. I found that you absolutely need a decent amount of material in the top of the liquid channel to prevent leaking.

I think the layer of liquid in the airflow inlets is normal as long as it's not leaking. Sometimes I exhale through the driptip for a split second as I'm about to take a draw, which could count for the condensation.

Check the 510 on your device to see if it has liquid on it separate from the atty. I've had some liquid around the bottom of the atty, but non of it is present in the atty pin or my mod's pin. So I think it's the fill screw, but it's such a small amount of liquid.

I've really been liking the rayon though. It had a break in period for the first tank, but it vapes so well. I think using rayon is easier since you want the good tail density (still short tails) and compared to cotton you have to use a bit more material. Next time I think I could get away with a little less too.

As long as you don't leak when you fill you should be good. Just dry the screw and bottom when you fill, I think that helps with any liquid coming out. I've been doing that and I've has little to no liquid on the bottom recently.

 

[Dioxyde]

I haven't kept up with this thread at all, & I'm not too excited about the idea of combing the entire thing...

Had my v1.2 (or whatever it's called) about 2 weeks now. I love the flavor, & I'm getting just the right amount of vapor for my preferences. VERY satisfying vape!

I've seen a number of posts around teh interwebs about leaking from the fill screw, which I'm almost positive I haven't had. I'm suspicious that my leaking issue is coming straight from the center pin in the airflow channel... The AFC ring will have juice inside it, there's juice inside the air channel, & I have the common ring of juice around the base of the atty (if it isn't one of the few times it leaked 1/2 the 4.2ml's down the sides of my Sigelei).

Anybody else experienced leaking there? I don't 'think' my insulator is melted to nothingness, so I can't guess why/how it's leaking there.

Frustrating.


Goggling at world from my iPhone

I get a tiny bit of juice droplets around the AFC sometimes, I only notice it if I move the ring and I think it's actually just condensation because I inspect mine frequently and never find juice in the actual air holes and if I don't mess with the ring it never gets on to my mod, continuing to inhale after you have stopped firing for half a second might fix that. If juice is actually leaking down the airhole then you probably need to use a little more wick on those channels.

 

[lyspaere]

If juice is actually leaking down the airhole then you probably need to use a little more wick on those channels.

I've wondered about that. I use the method Trevor Jones showed in his epic review/build. I get barely any wicking in the channels. I'll give it a try; thx for the suggestion.



Goggling at world from my iPhone

 

[MattyTny]

I've been using Trevor's method as well. It works really well. The key is to trim the tails short, but keep the density.

When you place the chimney barrel over the dry wick you may feel a little resistance, but once you catch a thread it's smooth. And you definitely want to see the wicking material in the tops of each channel before you screw it all the way down.

I've been running the same rayon wick for about a week and it's keeping up great using that method. What's great about this wicking is that since all four tails are identical because they are so short you should be able to see bubbles coming up from different channels over the course of use. I've noticed this tank doesn't favor one channel over the other as much as my KFL and erl. There's a lot of patience in getting them trimmed to fit, but it's very worth it.

 

[Wolfenstark]

I've wondered about that. I use the method Trevor Jones showed in his epic review/build. I get barely any wicking in the channels. I'll give it a try; thx for the suggestion.



Goggling at world from my iPhone

I do the Trevor wick method and its been great. Person before says on the channels not in the channels.
Even with 2mm coils and the wick just going in the channels the amount on top of the channels has been good for me. No dry hits or leaking.

 

[lyspaere]

I do the Trevor wick method and its been great. Person before says on the channels not in the channels.

Even with 2mm coils and the wick just going in the channels the amount on top of the channels has been good for me. No dry hits or leaking.

I haven't had a single dry hit, either. If I can get this leaking issue figured out, I'll be a totally satisfied vaper!

Goggling at world from my iPhone

 

[Dioxyde]

Yeah I should have been more clear, as others have said, get some wick snug in your coil, trim and fluff it up, tuck very little (more like strands) into the channel but keep a nice puff of cotton around the top. Too little wick up there is the only reason I can think your juice would be making it to those holes. I think you'll get it if you play around with it a bit more, been using this guy a lot for nearly 3 weeks now and I'm still leak-free (I abuse it too).

 

[Oxymandias]

i have this problem with one of my goblins., but i didn't force mine out. since you did it sounds like the threads maybe messed up now.

The shop took it back. They're shipping it to Austin, and my replacement will be here next week. Super stoked they stood by their product tho, didn't think they would.

 

[Aptivus]

I had an excellent experience with Mt Baker Vapor, my Goblin 1.2 arrived with the 4.2mL glass chipped on two sides. Two emails and two photos of the damaged item later and they shipped out a whole unit for free, told me not to worry about sending the old unit back! I was amazed at the level of customer service I received.

The shop took it back. They're shipping it to Austin, and my replacement will be here next week. Super stoked they stood by their product tho, didn't think they would.

 

[narrdarr]

ok so here go. the full quad coil guide that i've been showing off here n there.

to start make 4 coils:
10 wraps
1.4mm screwdriver
28 guage kanthal A1
wrap 2 clockwise and 2 counter-clockwise


now for inserting the coils:
depending on which side you start on. you want the bottom of the coil's "lead" to go behind to the negative post, so it doesn't block the wick from getting to the juices channels later.
now that you have a coil in. your going to want the coil's bottom to be off the deck enough so the air can hit the whole coil. while at the same time having the coil's bottom to be near the edge of the juice channel.

had to move the coil on the right over to the right slightly, i did it after taking the pic, but the coil on the left is in good position. and you can see the leads come behind going to the negative post. this is what your looking for.

now on to wicking:

you can feed the wick from the top or bottom, but i prefer to go from bottom. keep your wick fluffy and alittle tight as if your wicking a normal coil. bring the wick from the bottom up till you get right to the end of the wick and part of it is just starting to go into the juice channel and the rest is sitting on top of the deck with its ends head towards the juice channel.

(in the above pic i decided to pull the wick out of the channel just a hair more. literally a hair. i was getting overly picky i guess lol)

now that you have the wick positioned trim the top ends just long enough for the end to reach the juice channels


leave the top ends up like a bunch of bunny ears.


i can only add up to fives pic. so continue to next post next post.

 

[narrdarr]

continued quad coil build log:

leaving the wick up in the bunny ear style put the barrel on.


now take each piece of wick sticking out and fold it over the coil end first and guide the down to the juice channels. be gentle you don't want to pack them in. trim them a little if you have to. keep them fluffy and straight.


add some juice to the wick and clear out any wick that may be blocking the airflow.
(sry i forgot to take that picture )

now test fire. you may not see the vapor like you would in a normal coil, because you'll have the wick going through and laying on top of the coil, but you definitely hear tit and if you give a little blow through the air holes. the vapor will come out with some rage .


fill it and enjoy


oh the build does come to a .4 ohm build.

thoughts:
this build allows for more airflow than a standard build. flavor is great, but just like a standard if not done right flavor may be slightly muted.

getting all the coil in maybe hard for some and easy for others. this was the second time i've done this build. the first it was super easy, but this i had to work at it alittle more.

wick this way has been the easy and most constant wicking method i've done in a goblin. never a dry hit never leaked.


side notes:

im currently using 60/40 vg/pg in this, but i've also used up to 80 vg and down to 50/50 no problem. but i would recommend not having any wick getting into the channel with 80+ vg juices as there is so much wick's ends butting up to the juice channels. anything less that 50/50 vg i may put just a hair more into the channel.

although this build already allows more airflow. the more vertical you get the more air flow you can achieve, but you'll find that wicking will getting harder.

well thats a wrap everyone.

i hope this helped anyone out that was looking at the quad coil build that i've been doing.

 

[ThunderDan]

I may have to try that build out tomorrow.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

 

[zerosm0ke]

Does anyone know where Trevor got that bowl setup he is building on? I kind of like that. Thanx

 

[ThunderDan]

Does anyone know where Trevor got that bowl setup he is building on? I kind of like that. Thanx

https://www.facebook.com/tenderfoot.stands

 

[Aptivus]

Does anyone know where Trevor got that bowl setup he is building on? I kind of like that. Thanx

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