can you replace the switches on a MOD. i have never actually had a board fail in one of my mods, usually its the 510 connection, switches just wear out, ect. i have had some wonky devices that just fell apart and were poorly constructed. that aside, if you have a mod that's built fairly well and the switches eventually kick the bucket, can you de-solder and replace things like the switches and micro-usb ports. i know the 510 connector is replaceable. also what size are those impossible little torque screws. i have nothing broken right now but if we have to consider the possibility of no longer being able to purchase these devices at some point then the reality is we need to become mod "techs".
if you need a switch or USB port, do you buy them off of fast-tech and how do you know which switch to buy?
if you need a switch or USB port, do you buy them off of fast-tech and how do you know which switch to buy?
Just a heads up that Lightning Vapes is having a battery/charger sale. Pairs of HB2, HE4, 25R, etc. for under $10 for the next couple of days.
They must have seen mooch's new table of recommended batteries where he pulled most of these off the recommended list.
Agreed. Good to see most big resellers pushing LG, Samsung, Sony and AW. No reason to buy eFest and other rewraps these days. Potentially dangerous and almost always more expensive lately.
Also, for any Canadians, shipping was only $6.99 which puts my pairs of HE4 and HB2's at about 1/2 of what they cost here.
Hi Rosesense,
If you are really DESPERATE to get the bronze Provari, They are available here.
Unfortunately, they are at the original list price ($236-260)!
They have an enormous stock of Provis but the price..Oy!
What I spent to DIY cost less than all the mods I own.
DIY'g by weight eliminates the need for beakers & glass tubes- just needed a decent scale which can be had for under $20.
I have been using a bunch of 25R's for almost a year and they are solid. i haven't tried the 25R5 yet. Next order, but I am set for a while.
I have used mech mods. I used to carry a SMPL faux hybrid as a backup when my mod went too low to vape.
I used mechs and know from experience i hate the things for the reasons i spelled out in tge earlier message.
I think everyone thinks this way until your brain decides you're ready to start reading about it & finding out more & more what the DIY craze is all about. No different than how I was with coil building. It seemed intimidating until I actually started doing it. Afterwards all I could so was laugh & ask myself what was I so scared for.
I didn't want to rebuild at all but the inconsistent OCC coil heads for my suv Tank nano
1 dry hits, and burned wicks made the Decision to build for me.
As long as you can do a little math or download a juice calculator to save you from back of the envelope calculations, DIY is a breeze. By weight or volume you'll end up in the same place, and it's just a matter of preference. The hard part here is figuring out what recipes you can make that you actually like.
As to coils, well, making a coil is dead simple. Wicking a coil remains somewhat of a "black art" to be mastered, at least by me.
...oh, and extra parts for the Reos.
Those should outlast me.
I've used the same REO daily since January of last year. Just last week it started leaking on me. I figured it was probably time for a rebuild and it's as good a time as any to see if I can do it. Turned out that wasn't necessary at all. I had just worn a hole in the bottle from squonking. So I replaced the bottle and gave the mod a bath. Good as new.
You been using that clone cotton?As long as you can do a little math or download a juice calculator to save you from back of the envelope calculations, DIY is a breeze. By weight or volume you'll end up in the same place, and it's just a matter of preference. The hard part here is figuring out what recipes you can make that you actually like.
As to coils, well, making a coil is dead simple. Wicking a coil remains somewhat of a "black art" to be mastered, at least by me.
Nah, those Japanese cotton pads. I think most of the problem is every tank needs its own "style" of wicking. Top of juice holes, bottom of juice holes, halfway down the juice holes, fluffy, compact, fluff then stuff. Too much, too little. Endless variations.
Coils however, open Steam Engine, see how many wraps, wrap it, done. If only there were a Cotton's law like Ohm's law to rely on.
That is why I only have two types. Found what worked - learned how to keep it working and the rest of this great journey hopefully is in glide mode.
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