Yeah - it would seem that all manufacturers with the exception of Molicel, have that as a disclaimer somewhere on their sale page.
Anyway, it's old man nap time. I have some searching around to do on this ecblendflavors site now as well.
Wow, talk about beating a dead mech to death. I don't know of any mech that you can sub ohm on but not being a sub ohmer, I am not up to speed on the topic.
When I first started, mechs were about all there was and we did alright. I don't assume someone is ignorant and needs to be told by 5 people that they are dangerous. All mods are dangerous if you don't know what you are doing.
In the words of one of my former clients (Eng was 2nd language), "barking up a dead horse"
and I will leave it at that.
When I first started, mechs were about all there was and we did alright. I don't assume someone is ignorant and needs to be told by 5 people that they are dangerous. All mods are dangerous if you don't know what you are doing.
In the words of one of my former clients (Eng was 2nd language), "barking up a dead horse"
and I will leave it at that.
Well it's not a very big deck so yeah, if you can push the coil legs into their mounting holes a little more and still have the coil sitting mostly over the air intake holes, that's all I can think of. I don't use claptons or any specialty coils like that - some are big, some are small, that's all I know lol But I can't make my own clapton wires so I won't use clapton coils. To me they are like factory coils, I would have to stock up on them. No way, I'll stick to regular old round wire.
Thats just about the best summation of nearly every internet disagreement I've ever seen. Your friend is a genius even if he doesn't realize it...
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Mid 2010 I started with one of the RN4xxx series jobs. Ahhh for the good old days of fun like blue foam mods [emoji16]Remember way back, I was a kid, a pack of cigs cost $.35? They are $9 in my area last I checked, maybe more. I remember saying I refuse to pay $9 for a pack of cigs, so it was hello vaping
NY nanny state tax increase is what got me to vaping. Multi dollar a pack plus-up at one shot. I could afford it, but darned if I was going to pay it.
Well I am really old cause cigs were a quarter in vending machines and 1.00 a carton for name brands on post.
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Just to be clear my original post above was never directed at any individual, rather voicing my concern at what I have been seeing in general on the forum as of late, but, assumptions were made and expressed and off we go. I'm sorry I said anything I should know better because it rarely is taken at face value and if anyone felt singled out that was never my intent.
Yes, Asmodus Luna is a good example. My ehpro Armor Prime you'vemods are similar (I love them for the side fire button).
The semi will classically protect against low ohms/short, low battery, etc., quite decent basic safety, may well have rudimentary voltage indication (ehpro AP led will change to yellow, then to red just before cut-out).
My Armageddon stash are my multiple true mech squonks, very maintainable (I have a decent number of spare good 510 connectors, many spare silicone squonk buttoned, making replacement solid copper contacts is trivial). They work just fine with tanks, too, and my preferred ohms/power level in tanks happens to be right to use those tanks on mechs.
My first mod I think was a mech now that I think about it, a GLV super mini, it has some wires to the fire button but not regulated. Took proctected batts, we only used cartos back then, 2 ohms or 3 ohm Cartos. I never gave it a thought that is was unregulated because I don't think much was back then. I still have them but not sure about finding batts.
They were always cheaper on post. Even when I was in the army they were only $8-9 a carton on post.
GLV's and my first Provari and those fancy hand blown carto tanks! I sold them all, wish I kept one of the tanks tho.
and those fancy hand blown carto tanks! I sold them all, wish I kept one of the tanks tho.
I regularly sub ohm on a mech. 0.7 ohm coil even at full charge of 4.2 volts is only 6 Amps. Given I run 20 Amp or higher max continuous discharge batteries I have plenty of room for safety. But this is very much what I meant by needing to know what you are doing. I would NEVER run a super low coil like a .15 which would pull 28 amps. I really am not aware of a battery that reliably has a max continuous discharge that high. My personal comfort zone is to never require more than half a batterys max continuous discharge. That leaves some wiggle room if things go slightly awry.Wow, talk about beating a dead mech to death. I don't know of any mech that you can sub ohm on but not being a sub ohmer, I am not up to speed on the topic.
When I first started, mechs were about all there was and we did alright. I don't assume someone is ignorant and needs to be told by 5 people that they are dangerous. All mods are dangerous if you don't know what you are doing.
In the words of one of my former clients (Eng was 2nd language), "barking up a dead horse"
Interestingly, the original pulse is not a classic mech due to the button implementation.
I keep an OG pulse and battery in my car along with a prepped squonk rda and eliquid, as backup (I rotate the battery and eliquid every couple months).
The pulse is cool in terms of size, though its internal resistance is a bit on the high side even after tightening the knife switch on/off cutout inside it. My true mechs, with solid copper or silver contacts and modmaker connectors, have very low resistance (meaning less voltage drop).
So on a mech is it safe to say, stay around 1 ohm +, no lower than .8 or .7?
I normally run about 0.35 - 0.4 ohms with zero worries.
Current = Voltage/resistance. With a fresh battery at a full 4.2V (they tend to drop to around 3.7 fairly soon), that's 12 amps - pretty trivial for modern batteries.
At 0.7 ohms you would only draw 6A at 4.2 V - if you use any recommended-for-vaping battery it should exceed that.
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0.7 at 4.2v is only 6 amps. Lots of room for lower resistance on a high amp battery.
For a single 18650, Mooch estimates the Samsung 20S at 30A CDR. You could build at 0.35 ohms and still be well below CDR at 12A. That's a little over 50W.
At 12A, you could use almost any battery on mooch's recommended mech battery list and be well below CDR. Though I would probably stick with the 25A or above batteries myself.
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