Attack of the (Kayfun v4) Clones!
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I'll check the parts diagram but I can't think offhand of anything plastic other than the tank and insulator in the positive block. Anyone want to advise before I do something absentminded (seems to be a problem for me this week
)?
I was mainly thinking on the insulator in the posi block (there's one above and one below the deck) as well as the insulator in the 510 screw. Actually, now that I think about it, there is another plastic part in the base. It's part #10 in the exploded parts list.
Without trying to be disagreeable , this is absolutely not the case. I can't put it any other way.
The square male and square female parts (# 3 &8) must be butted tightly together or there will be a poor ground.
It's not just a matter of screw #9 being tight.
Let me just add, the 510 screw is adjustable, it is not necessary for it to be "tight".
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I clean all my parts/tanks/etc in the ultrasonic cleaner with diluted simply green. it's organic.
I had a similar issue as yourself with my kayfun 3.1 from hcigar. this way before I got the ultrasonic + simply green combo, but I used gasoline, then washed the gasoline out of that. killed the O-rings but FINALLY killed the machine oil dragon
I had a similar issue as yourself with my kayfun 3.1 from hcigar. this way before I got the ultrasonic + simply green combo, but I used gasoline, then washed the gasoline out of that. killed the O-rings but FINALLY killed the machine oil dragon
I finally get what you're saying. I see why #7 can be the problem. Is there a specific order I should be re-assembling A?
Dig deeper and you will see it's another one of their names kind of like Chevy and GMC
I can't get my 510 pin out, but I suppose that bottom part of the base doesn't touch the juice anyway so it can stay out.
Exactly as in the diagram with the exception of a shim placed into the square of part #3. Don't assemble any farther till you see that you have it the way you want it.
I'm getting ready to put this diagram on the wall in front of me.
After reading some of these problems that people are having in this thread, I'm nervous to get my clones now. Especially more nervous after seeing that diagram over and over again!
Oh, I emailed Custom Mod Creation updating my address (left my apartment number off the original order). The person got back to me within a couple hours updating the address. He said it'd go out sometime this week. Good news, I guess.
Oh, I emailed Custom Mod Creation updating my address (left my apartment number off the original order). The person got back to me within a couple hours updating the address. He said it'd go out sometime this week. Good news, I guess.
Exactly as in the diagram with the exception of a shim placed into the square of part #3. Don't assemble any farther till you see that you have it the way you want it.
I'm getting ready to put this diagram on the wall in front of me.
lol ya I got the poster with that diagram with my k4 clone. So you're saying start with the 510 pin and insulator, and assemble everything else on top of that? This thing is more complex then it needs to be @_@
I have two type A K4's (black o-rings) coming from FT, I'm to understand that on part #38 the flat spots for air release are not present, I shall put the there.
One will arrive tomorrow and the other on Thursday along with five glass tanks.
Are these from a different manufacturer than the ones from Codevape?
One will arrive tomorrow and the other on Thursday along with five glass tanks.
Are these from a different manufacturer than the ones from Codevape?
Don't even worry about the 510 and it's insulator and insulator with nut, just assemble 3 through 9 and check it, if good assemble the rest.
It really isn't that complicated, it just intimidates the heck out of a person. LOL
My v4 is working awesome so far, well after I got it clean. But my only issue is wicking. I have a 1.2 build on a 3/32 drill bit. Cotton is done perfectly and is resting over juice holes. But I am occasionally getting dry hits. Just seems that wicking can't keep up. This happens even when I'm not using it heavily. Seems to happen when I want a little warmer vapor and bump watts up. Normally around 20 but when I bump to 22 is when I have issues. I vaped my kayfun lite at 22 all day long on builds between 1.0 and 1.4
My FT A version has flats to let air escape.
I had the same issue (dry hits) when I first built mine. I found cutting the tails to just feather the juice deck makes it work MUCH better. If it's too long, it blocks the juice holes and prevents air from escaping into the tank, creating a vaccum that won't allow juice to flow out.
I guess we may have to agree to disagree. The cutout on part #3 is not there for grounding. Part #9 screws directly into the negative of the 510 becoming the ground and being tight on part #8 completes the ground. If you have any of the other clones like the red oring one from fasttech that doesn't have that issue you will see it is assembled in the same way I described which is how I descovered the fix that has not only been working perfectly for me but has also steadied my resistance reading on my DNA 40. Before I even attempted that fix I sanded the white delrin orings to the same size has those on the working ones with no improvement. The 510 is also still adjustable after doing what I said. I said to tighten part #9 and the 510 pin snug just to make sure that part #2(replacememt) is pressed in place. After doing so adjust the 510 to your liking. I just suggest trying it before assuming it won't work. It has been working perfectly for me since last Thursday without having to mess with anything again. It won't damage anything like sanding orings which may be unnecessary and is easy enough to just give it a shot before doing things that can't be undone
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Good idea, I'd try it. Definitely remove the orings and clean them with dish soap. Or even soak in a water/vinegar mix.
I'll have to give it a try. So you just used a different 510 insulator?
Why do people remove the O-rings for boiling? They are likely standard Viton O-rings and are good to 400+ F. Water boils at 212F. When my authentic comes in I'm throwing the whole thing in a pot of boiling water and dish soap.
I a have a KF V4 clone from unknown manufacturer. I purchased it as a preorder on eBay. It's a 1:1 clone with red o-rings.
The leaking issue was present from the very first build and hasn't stopped for a few days until I finally found this thread. A few
people have correctly concluded that the reason for leaking is the o-ring #16 that goes over the squared (inner) part of the air chamber.
I wasn't able to find a thicker o-ring, so I applied one wrap of dental floss under the o-ring and it has fixed the problem. If you're going
to attempt the use the dental floss, apply only one wrap where ends slightly overlap (only few millimeters). Using more floss will cause
the o-ring to bulge out from the grooves when screwed in, which will possible cause more leaking and eventually damage the o-ring.
I hope this helps at least one person
Gene
I ended up using some cotton thread (I use disposable dental floss picks so no floss). I put about 3 wraps and it's working great. It could probably use another wrap but it seals enough so it's not leaking.
Thanks again!
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