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Canadian Rebuildable's and stuff thread!

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MisterMike

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There are two main types of rebuildables:

Edit: I won't make everyone read all that again.

Wow! Thanks for the leg-work! :)

I'm a bit of a tinkerer when it comes right down to it, so I don't really mind fiddling around with small parts. Insert jokes here. :)

I used to make maille (biggest completed project was a coif and aventail); I coiled and cut all my own rings, and even ventured briefly into riveted maille (Where every ring is riveted together. And I was using 18 gauge wire for the rings. Yes I'm crazy.) so I think I have the patience to fiddle around with a Genesis-style atomizer. :)

Time to start saving the pennies...
 

martinc

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Looks like its "I got mine too today" day!

Just received the rest of my Svoemesto kit,which has 2 complete rebuildale tanks in it (a 3rd tank coming next week,bouyah!)

Its a coil/wick proposition--maybe Genesis in the futur,we will see,he likes to thinker it really well before offering anything-- but man,what a tank;

Contrary to everything I have tried (and I pretty much tried them all) that thing doesnt leak (they all do) no matter how you hold it,shake it,tilt it,they come ready-made (fill and use) and also they have adjustable draw;3 style of tanks (stainless,half stainless half makrolon,full makrolon) 3 style of top caps;full stainless,stainless with plastic drip tip,full clear makrolon top and drip tip,proprietary connector WITH 510 adaptor that sits flush on the bottom of it...mazing stuff.
 

Mindfield

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Wow! Thanks for the leg-work! :)

I'm a bit of a tinkerer when it comes right down to it, so I don't really mind fiddling around with small parts. Insert jokes here. :)

I used to make maille (biggest completed project was a coif and aventail); I coiled and cut all my own rings, and even ventured briefly into riveted maille (Where every ring is riveted together. And I was using 18 gauge wire for the rings. Yes I'm crazy.) so I think I have the patience to fiddle around with a Genesis-style atomizer. :)

Time to start saving the pennies...

If you have the patience for maille armor then a Genny should be a breeze. Although the difference is that rather than being a lot of tedious piecework, it's all about practicing rolling the the right size piece and gauge of SS mesh to the right thickness, getting the oxidization process down (a chef's torch and a can of butane makes this easy), and wrapping a good coil. It helps to keep notes on what works best, as once you've got that process down to a perfect wick and coil you can make identical new ones in just a few minutes -- even make up a number of them at once so when you need to change you just pop the old one off and pop a new one on. Just remember to store the mesh and any premade wicks in a dry place.

Just a tip though. There are a number of videos on how to oxidize mesh -- including one of mine -- that advise in the second stage to put some E-liquid on the wick and burn it off. What most of us didn't mention (for me because I wasn't aware at the time) is, do not do this if your E-liquid contains VG. At temperatures above ~400°F, burning VG will break down and release acrolein, which is toxic. (You'll know if it's releasing acrolein by the acrid smell of burning fat. Note that our PVs generally don't get that hot so VG doesn't break down in normal use -- you'd start to get burnt-tasting hits long before it reached the smoke point and released acrolein.) Use PG only, or completely skip the juicing-up process entirely and just oxidize dry for a longer period of time (about a minute or more, rotating around to get complete coverage).
 
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MisterMike

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If you have the patience for maille armor then a Genny should be a breeze. Although the difference is that rather than being a lot of tedious piecework, it's all about practicing rolling the the right size piece and gauge of SS mesh to the right thickness, getting the oxidization process down (a chef's torch and a can of butane makes this easy), and wrapping a good coil. It helps to keep notes on what works best, as once you've got that process down to a perfect wick and coil you can make identical new ones in just a few minutes -- even make up a number of them at once so when you need to change you just pop the old one off and pop a new one on. Just remember to store the mesh and any premade wicks in a dry place.

Just a tip though. There are a number of videos on how to oxidize mesh -- including one of mine -- that advise in the second stage to put some E-liquid on the wick and burn it off. What most of us didn't mention (for me because I wasn't aware at the time) is, do not do this if your E-liquid contains VG. At temperatures above ~400°F, burning VG will break down and release acrolein, which is toxic. (You'll know if it's releasing acrolein by the acrid smell of burning fat. Note that our PVs generally don't get that hot so VG doesn't break down in normal use -- you'd start to get burnt-tasting hits long before it reached the smoke point and released acrolein.) Use PG only, or completely skip the juicing-up process entirely and just oxidize dry for a longer period of time (about a minute or more, rotating around to get complete coverage).

Good to know, about the VG. Definitely don't want that acrolein anywhere near my lungs.

I'm no stranger to heating up metal, as part of the riveted maille process involved annealing the steel rings so they'd be soft enough to pierce, as well as tempering the piercing drift. I've got a propane and a MAPP torch, so I'm set for fire.

In your oxidation video, I noticed you used a paperclip to hold the wick. This obligates me to bring up a safety issue: For anyone not familiar with heating up metal, I'd strongly advise against using anything that's galvanized in fire, unless you have a really good respirator. Zinc + heat = bad news. While the amounts on said paperclip (if it is galvanized) may not be enough to kill you or even hurt you, in general zinc fumes can make you very sick. I'd play it safe, if you're doing this regularly, and invest in a spool of black tie wire or even stainless steel paperclips, just to avoid the exposure.

Here endeth the public service announcement.
 

Dusty_D

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Ooooh, shiny!

I'ma have to do some reading up on that there Svoemesto thing, see what it's all about.

Dear Mr. Homeower. Don't bother. There's a mortgage payment or two involved in anything Svoemesto. ;)
 

MisterMike

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Dear Mr. Homeower. Don't bother. There's a mortgage payment or two involved in anything Svoemesto. ;)

Yes, so I hear. Too rich for my blood at the moment. I'm just curious about what kind of PV would require you to report capital gains on your income tax if you ever sold it. :)
 

Mindfield

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Good to know, about the VG. Definitely don't want that acrolein anywhere near my lungs.

Indeed. Scott Bonner just used the dry oxidation method (no quenching or juice involved). I've tried that myself and it works very well indeed, you just need to keep it under the flame longer and it'll build up a nice sooty insulation layer on its own. Quenching probably helps bond the oxidation layer to the underlying steel better, so it doesn't hurt, but generally speaking I don't think that's really all that necessary.

In your oxidation video, I noticed you used a paperclip to hold the wick. This obligates me to bring up a safety issue: For anyone not familiar with heating up metal, I'd strongly advise against using anything that's galvanized in fire, unless you have a really good respirator. Zinc + heat = bad news. While the amounts on said paperclip (if it is galvanized) may not be enough to kill you or even hurt you, in general zinc fumes can make you very sick. I'd play it safe, if you're doing this regularly, and invest in a spool of black tie wire or even stainless steel paperclips, just to avoid the exposure.

Here endeth the public service announcement.

Thanks for that, I didn't realize that. Now that I think about it though, while zinc oxide is generally safe, its heated fumes are not, so that makes sense. I'll have to check my paperclips to see what their composition is. Normally I actually hold my mesh with needle-nose pliers, it was just easier for visibility on-camera to use the paperclip in my tutorial.
 

Mindfield

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Where are you guys sourcing you Kanthal and mesh?

I get my Kanthal-A (or A1) in reels off eBay for a few bucks -- it's dirt cheap. You can get mesh there too but it's typically rather expensive compared to buying it in larger sheets from The Mesh Company.

In fact,Scott did use PG liquid but now I think he uses the rolling paper trick which gives the gap required between a coil and the mesh,and leaves a bit of sooth I have yet to try it though,I always forget to buy a pack at the store,its an habit I lost over 20 yrs ago :laugh:

I remember he used PG liquid (that's what he personally vapes) earlier on but in one of his more recent videos he did a dry burn. I heard about the rolling paper trick though, but haven't tried it. That should work well also.
 
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