E2 Cartomizer Technical Discussion

[BanjoMan]

I should probably wait until tomorrow to post this but it's working so well right now I just have to tell somebody.

Earlier I tried replacing the silicone filler ring with a modified plastic one from an older CE2 on a 510XL. The hope was to control the leaking into the air tube, which did not work. A few hours ago I dove into my old stash of PTB material and tried a new idea.

I folded and cut PTB until I had two pieces a little less than 1/4" wide and just thin enough to slide down between the wick and the carto wall - covering the slot area completely. It took a bit of trial and error to get the thickness right but eventually I managed to get both pieces in. I now have a 510XL with PTB across the slots, the middle ring pressed against the cup (flat side down), and the mouthpiece (NO filler ring). I've filled this one a total of 3 times now and I'm getting no leak into the air tube. I've even left it lying on its' side for more than a few minutes and turned it upside-down numerous times.

Drip filling takes a bit longer because you have to aim between the PTB and wait for it to drain in, and I have no idea how it's going to hold up to a dry burn, but so far it's working perfectly. Before going to bed tonight I'm going to fill it full and lay it on its' side. In the morning I'll know for sure if it's a winner.

p.s. This is the same carto I tried the plastic filler ring on, so it's already proven it's a leaker.

 

[Ghetto_Cowgirl]

Pics boy...I can't get the image in my head lol

 

[WiηgC¤mmαηdεя]

Sounds promising, I don't have the ceramics yet but if it works consistently would be great.
I don't have any PTB left - threw it all out when I started using the 1st revision ones I have now(cleaned out clutter at wife's request)
I wonder if a piece of compressed blue foam at the slots would work equally well.

 

[badkolo]

im stopping the miodding. thats not what should be going on period.
we should be able to fill it with juice and vape. there is to many leaking, and the slits need to be fixed, most of my xl's are useless, either they leak or the wrong ohm and leak, i have many that work but that doesnt change the fact many dont, my regular 510 ceramics are fairing well versus the xl.

They need to make sure the newest revision is tested and checked and tested some more. im happy the primer is gone, im happy they fixed the leak but now the cup needs to have the slits closed and that all needs to be tested to make sure its done, they also need to make sure we recieve the ohms we ordered or else it also kills the point of having higher ohms.

If i was able to leave and go to china to get these fixed I would, I cant for specific reasons but if i knew it would solve the issue i would even get one of you out there to get this done right at the factory.

 

[BanjoMan]

Pics boy...I can't get the image in my head lol

I don't know if my camera will focus on something as small as a tiny piece of PTB, but if I can find somebody here to take the pics while I work with the stuff tomorrow, I'll try.

It's basically pretty simple: a small piece of PTB thin enough to fit between the wick as it bends over the slot and the outer carto wall. Each piece was a little less than 1/4" sqaure. I held them with small pointy tweezers and gave each a little "bend' so it would match the shape of the inside of the carto wall, then gently pressed them into place. Each piece is just wide enough and long enough to cover the slot from the outside. They're also thick and spongey enough to press up against the outside of the slot, creating a barrier of sorts. The PTB material is still going to let some juice through eventually, but this set-up keeps the juice from just pouring through the slots and into the cup (that's the idea, anyway).

p.s. I forgot to mention that since PTB wicks on its' own, it might help with the harsh taste some are getting. A constantly wet piece of PTB might not only stop juice from pouring through the slots - it might actually help feed juice to the wick right where it needs to be.

 

[BanjoMan]

im stopping the miodding. thats not what should be going on period.
we should be able to fill it with juice and vape. there is to many leaking, and the slits need to be fixed, most of my xl's are useless, either they leak or the wrong ohm and leak, i have many that work but that doesnt change the fact many dont, my regular 510 ceramics are fairing well versus the xl.

They need to make sure the newest revision is tested and checked and tested some more. im happy the primer is gone, im happy they fixed the leak but now the cup needs to have the slits closed and that all needs to be tested to make sure its done, they also need to make sure we recieve the ohms we ordered or else it also kills the point of having higher ohms.

If i was able to leave and go to china to get these fixed I would, I cant for specific reasons but if i knew it would solve the issue i would even get one of you out there to get this done right at the factory.

I agree with you 100% bad, I'm just trying to help make what I've already got here useable. I have a total of 90 XL's sitting here. If I can mod them to work well enough for everyday use, I'll have plenty of time to wait while they get there act straightened out over there. It's a long-shot but I've seen harder problems solved on this forum.

 

[v1John]

WingCommander and Ghetto_CG, a small blue worm around the cup top might work, just don't use too much foam, try not to squeeze the actual wick.

It's just the very top of the cup where the wide slots are wide open that you want the blue worm.

_____

Bad, well there was no purpose able to be defeated back when you ordered, was there? The drop down menu didn't appear until recently, and only now, people can choose the resistance from the menu.

I have a question, are you able to compress the coil (short out the loops amongst themselves)? Doesn't this reduce the path of resistance and therefore lowering the ohm value? With some pointy tweezers, I wonder if the path of resistance can be shortened, by xqueezing the loops all together.


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zoid and BanjoMan, well I started to dry burn it but it stinks and got my PT warm, and I gave up and threw it away, it's not worth it, I have a good supply of cartos, so now I'm on a new one, and this time it's a 510 and xL, and it's just as nice as the 808d, I have no idea how pm2006 or someone who posted about their lips burning.

 

[BanjoMan]

John,

Don't give up on dry burning so quickly. Yeah.. you want to do it outside (well, at least until it stops smoking the first time). After that it's just rinse and burn (with the filler ring out). You can make these things last a LOT longer with just a little cleaning work.. it's worth it.

 

[v1John]

Thanks, BanjoMan, I may try that again in a day or two.
__________
Does anyone know what happens to a cut wick? How does it work, I wonder.
I didn't mean cut the nichrome, just cut the wick, but I'd be cautious because I don't know how to cut it clean in two and without causing wick fragments all over the place. Would you get just as much gunk buit up?

 

[BanjoMan]

Sounds promising, I don't have the ceramics yet but if it works consistently would be great.
I don't have any PTB left - threw it all out when I started using the 1st revision ones I have now(cleaned out clutter at wife's request)
I wonder if a piece of compressed blue foam at the slots would work equally well.

Wing I don't have any experience with the foam material but it would have to be VERY thin. Thin enough to fit on both sides. The first time I cut a piece of PTB it was too thick and pushed the cup up against the other side of the carto. I had to yank it out and start over.

p.s. I just did my 4th fill on this carto and it's working like a champ. I'm probably jinxing myself but it's working better than I expected.

 

[badkolo]

v1john i suggest you start packing your bags, its either you or br on a plane and i dont want to hear any complaints.lol

and your gonna need a tazer, so whenever they get it worng you can shock em.

 

[v1John]

I thought about using a piece of filler material from a filler carto, except I don't have any more
A long time ago, I tried a section of wick itself off of another carto. The problem is having to refill it, but if you use like an inch of wick more or less, I guess it can't hurt much if it falls inside to re-fill. This is all expermiental though, not something for everyone. The ptb sounds the most practical and uncomplicated.

 

[BanjoMan]

Thanks, BanjoMan, I may try that again in a day or two.
__________
Does anyone know what happens to a cut wick? How does it work, I wonder.
I didn't mean cut the nichrome, just cut the wick, but I'd be cautious because I don't know how to cut it clean in two and without causing wick fragments all over the place. Would you get just as much gunk buit up?

I don't know for certain but I think the "gunk" is just built-up residue from whatever juice you're using. Mine gunks pretty fast while others never seem to have a problem. When you vape and heat the juice for short periods of time you burn part of it off while the remainder cools back down and hardens - over and over again. Eventually you're left with a black wick full of unburnt or too-well burnt juice (or whatever). It *will* burn off, but it takes a longer burn (and a rinse in-between helps) than you normally heat the coil while vaping.

 

[v1John]

Bad, I might get too distracted myself and have fun with the royal ladies there though
No, but I mean yes. Good idea.

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I hope also Br builds a prototype too

 

[br5495]

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I hope also Br builds a prototype too

br has two prototypes. They are not a fix for everything and for everybody, but they sure make filling these things a breeze. So far, two of my XL's can be filled up to the wick and do not leak when laid on their side for several minutes. Later on, this version will be replaced with a revised version that will Include an"O" ring to keep them in place. Right now I have found at least three different tubes with slightly different inside diameters. The two I have right now are a close fit and do not need "O" rings.

I can't make a decent picture right now, so can't show you much. Here's the best I can do:

I'll try to explain more about them in another post.

 

[br5495]

When one of these things are inserted, it automatically centers the cup, which then allows the rim of the cup to fit in a groove. To fill the reservoir, simply pull out the mouthpiece and fill it up. Then put the mouthpiece back in and vape. A drip bottle, syringe or whatever can be used for filling.

 

[v1John]

Wow! That's great! So it's like the drip tip and the hole nine yards are one piece?

instead of having an inner plug, a middle ring, a mout piece plastic plug, they're all built into one piece?

_________________
make thousands of them
I'd like to buy a few of them, is there a waiting list?

 

[br5495]

Wow! That's great! So it's like the drip tip and the hole nine yards are one piece?

instead of having an inner plug, a middle ring, a mout piece plastic plug, they're all built into one piece?

Yep. It does the same thing as "Shorty", except neater.

However, shorty had a stable cup, so it did not need anything to center it.

 

[v1John]

Would it still be easy to make a good seal if the cup is shaped differently so that refilling can go even better still?

It doesn't have to be concave, at least flat maybe?

 

[nightsong]

Wow indeed! Great job, looks like exactly what we need!