GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Heron

[landman2k1]

Dear Perseas

As my third GP Heron wings its way to Australia, what I would really, really love is a simple 510 to M20x1 adapter (like a 510 to 510 connector, only with a female M20x1) because ...

1. When building a coil, I could screw the 510 end of the adapter into my wonderful atty stand/coil building contraption (pictured below); the Heron would then just screw into the adapter for a nice, stable base for assembling the coil.

2. Once the coild is built and assembled, the 510 end of the adapter could be screwed into my ohm checker, and then the Heron could just be screwed into the female end for checking the coil

It's a long shot, I know

Is this what you seek?

 

[Ozwald]

^^ +1

Was thinking the exact same thing.

 

[btobw]

Is this what you seek?

Thanks, but no - I have one of those and I need something rather less elegant. The 510 adapter in the link is a beautifully designed piece that replaces the Heron's GPin. I want to be able to leave the Heron in hybrid mode, and just screw it into a simple adapter so that the hybrid Heron's GPin makes contact with the positive pin in the 510 end. The 20x1 end of the adapter would need to be about as deep as the X converter ring, I guess.

I want to be able to measure the coil resistance of a Heron in hybrid mode on a 510 ohm meter - and hence avoid having to find out what a multimeter is

 

[perseas]

Thanks, but no - I have one of those and I need something rather less elegant. The 510 adapter in the link is a beautifully designed piece that replaces the Heron's GPin. I want to be able to leave the Heron in hybrid mode, and just screw it into a simple adapter so that the hybrid Heron's GPin makes contact with the positive pin in the 510 end. The 20x1 end of the adapter would need to be about as deep as the X converter ring, I guess.

I want to be able to measure the coil resistance of a Heron in hybrid mode on a 510 ohm meter - and hence avoid having to find out what a multimeter is

Hello my dear

A 510 adapter similar to what you propose, requires us to modify the pin of the GPin in order to have an external 510 adapter able to accommodate that pin. This approach also increases the overall length of the Heron, affecting it practically and aesthetically. It may serve your purpose, but it won't be affordable starting a production for such a use solely

 

[Ozwald]

Just got my Heron from the Post. Well "just" is rather relative. I've been messing with this thing for over an hour and a half & it still hasn't seen e-liquid.

My positive post was loose & the screw for the coil was over-tightened. That sucked up a lot of the time, but I finally got it fixed & a coil mounted. Now my biggest problem is that 510 adapter. Sadly the spring loaded pin assembly is too large to work on my Holyland ANT (currently my only 201 device, although I've been eyeballing a Paps & a GUS). The 510 adapter won't screw on. The only way I can get it on there is to take out the positive screw, thread in the insulator, screw on the outer piece & put the positive screw back in. The problem with that method is that the slot in the screw is too narrow & shallow for repeated use. If I take the 510 adapter off one more time & put it back on, it's never coming back off.

So far I'm really not impressed at all. In fact at the hour mark I was about ready to return it. I've heard such good things about the GP line, but I'm extremely disappointed so far. I really want to love this thing, but so far it's been nothing but frustration.

 

[cliffy15]

Just got my Heron from the Post. Well "just" is rather relative. I've been messing with this thing for over an hour and a half & it still hasn't seen e-liquid.

My positive post was loose & the screw for the coil was over-tightened. That sucked up a lot of the time, but I finally got it fixed & a coil mounted. Now my biggest problem is that 510 adapter. Sadly the spring loaded pin assembly is too large to work on my Holyland ANT (currently my only 201 device, although I've been eyeballing a Paps & a GUS). The 510 adapter won't screw on. The only way I can get it on there is to take out the positive screw, thread in the insulator, screw on the outer piece & put the positive screw back in. The problem with that method is that the slot in the screw is too narrow & shallow for repeated use. If I take the 510 adapter off one more time & put it back on, it's never coming back off.

So far I'm really not impressed at all. In fact at the hour mark I was about ready to return it. I've heard such good things about the GP line, but I'm extremely disappointed so far. I really want to love this thing, but so far it's been nothing but frustration.

I'm not familiar with the ANT, but have you tried using both of the pins in your hybrid set up? It doesn't screw on completely? I'd there a gap? pictures of the problem?

I'm not quite understanding your 510 adapter issues either. Are you assembling it after you removed the Heron's gpin and insulator?

If you post in the main vapourart thread, you'll probably get quicker and greater volume of responses as there is more traffic there.

 

[Ozwald]

I'm not familiar with the ANT, but have you tried using both of the pins in your hybrid set up? It doesn't screw on completely? I'd there a gap? pictures of the problem?

I'm not quite understanding your 510 adapter issues either. Are you assembling it after you removed the Heron's gpin and insulator?

If you post in the main vapourart thread, you'll probably get quicker and greater volume of responses as there is more traffic there.

On the 201 side, the ANT is pretty much the same as the GUS or Paps. It comes with an adapter so you can use 510 attys (a brass ring that screws on the 510 post to give it 201 threads & an insulator since the 510 pos/neg are so close together). Without the adapter, you're just looking at threads & the top of your battery.

I didn't see that the pins were of 2 different sizes, but unfortunately I was already using the shorter one with the shorter spring. It screws on just barely enough for the threads to catch... I suppose it would technically operate, but it would take much beyond looking at it really sternly for the Heron to come flying off. It's maybe one thread holding it on. The only thing I can think of is to shorten the spring a touch, which may still happen, just not on a device I just received & is potentially getting sent back.

For the 510 adapter, I remove the spring loaded pin insert & try to screw the adapter on. It won't. The only way to put it on is to remove the screw holding the 2 parts together.

(PS, the screw on mine doesn't have nearly that wide or deep of a slot)

...And remove the black insulator/contact, screw that in like I would the spring loaded pin. Then I can screw the outer part on & put the screw back in. It will not screw on or off as one piece. It's a PITA but workable, the main issue is that soft brass screw that barely has a slot in it.

I can't believe that's the way it's intended to be installed, it just won't screw on or off without disassembling it. At first I thought it was just because the threads on the insulator didn't match up with the threads on the outer cap, but if that was the case, it should've screwed off as a single unit (installing them separately should have lined them up). It will not.

I'm pretty handy & not exactly a neophyte when it comes to building on different platforms. I understand how it's supposed to work. It's just not. I just don't know if mine slipped by QC while they were on coffee break or if the design is just poor. I'm guessing & hoping the former from all the great things I've heard about GP. I'm at the 2.5 hour mark now. Still haven't vaped it yet. Partly because I had to put it aside for a bit so it didn't get launched across the room.

 

[btobw]

Hello my dear

A 510 adapter similar to what you propose, requires us to modify the pin of the GPin in order to have an external 510 adapter able to accommodate that pin. This approach also increases the overall length of the Heron, affecting it practically and aesthetically. It may serve your purpose, but it won't be affordable starting a production for such a use solely

I suspected your answer would be something like that I realise that aesthetically 'my' adapter would be rubbish - it would be a utilitarian piece only, never to leave the vaping work bench It wasn't until I started thinking about how big such a piece would be that I realised how ingenious 'your' 510 adapter is, and why the whole GPin assembly is replaced.

Thank you for responding, anyway. I may have to consider a multimeter ...

 

[Ozwald]

This adapter is junk. I emailed Domo to see if they would exchange it & am just hoping the replacement doesn't have the same issue.

 

[cliffy15]

GP support is one of the best in the business. Hopefully it will all be sorted out soon

 

[Ozwald]

I hope so. It's been a pretty frustrating day all around. If their service lives up to ProVape's (which is my general understanding), I may have to move the GUS back a spot & pick up a Paps first.

 

[btobw]

Ozwald, when I bought by first Heron, I also bought a 510 adapter just because it might come in handy, but I really had no idea how it worked. When I came to use it with a 510 mod, I had to visit GP Heron 510 adapter before I even understood that the entire 510 assembly is a replacement for the GPin assembly. The 510 adapter is not designed as the simple screw-on, screw off adapter I was asking about earlier - such an adapter would make the Heron far too tall.

Now that I've swapped the 510/GPin assemblies a few times, I'm finding it's actually quite intuitive. It's not screw-on, screw-off, but the upside is that the Heron on a 510 mod is not a lot taller than in hybrid mode, and it's very, very neat looking. I am totally biased, but, now that I've played a while, I think the 510 assembly is a totally ingenious design.

My experience of VapourArt service is that it's outstanding. Good luck.

 

[Ozwald]

Don't get me wrong, I like the design in theory, but unfortunately the one I received was junk. I've swapped some emails with Blake over at Domo & he's going to swap it out for me.

I think the insulator on the adapter might have an issue with the threading. The female threads on the metal 'cup' start to engage, but it jams up once the insulator reaches the internal threading where the g-pin assembly screws in. The only way was to disassemble it & install it in 2 parts. Which worked, except the brass screw on my adapter barely had a slot in it - there was no way to get it in & out without chewing it up.

 

[perhol]

I could be wrong, but to me it sounds like You are not doing it correct.
You must remove the g-pin completely, including the black insulator.
Then the 510 connector will fit!

Tapatalk sent this

 

[Ozwald]

I'm removing the g-pin assembly completely - using the wrench to remove it as a unit, but still pulling out the insulator, the contact, the spring & the pin itself... stripping it right down to the serial number.

 

[perseas]

I'm removing the g-pin assembly completely - using the wrench to remove it as a unit, but still pulling out the insulator, the contact, the spring & the pin itself... stripping it right down to the serial number.

Hello Ozwald

First of all I am sorry that the 510 brass pin has a shallow slot. We shall replace it and whatever else isn't working smoothly and we'll be better at QC in the future.

Regarding the design of the 510 adapter, it is as minimal as possible. You remove the Heron GPin with the fork and put the 510 assembly afterwards. You screw the base of the 510 adapter and it secures with the brass pin. The cap of the GPin has enough threading to turn it 3-4 times, but you have to push it in order to compress the spring. The GPin's action has to be stiff not soft for better conductivity.

 

[Ozwald]

Hello Ozwald

First of all I am sorry that the 510 brass pin has a shallow slot. We shall replace it and whatever else isn't working smoothly and we'll be better at QC in the future.

Regarding the design of the 510 adapter, it is as minimal as possible. You remove the Heron GPin with the fork and put the 510 pin afterwards. You screw the base of the 510 adapter and it secures with the brass pin. The cap of the GPin has enough threading to turn it 3-4 times, but you have to push it in order to compress the spring. The GPin's action has to be stiff not soft for better conductivity.

Thanks for the reply. So the adapter must be disassembled into the 2 parts by removing the brass screw to install no matter what? If that's the case, the only issue with mine was the screw itself. I've got quite the collection of screwdrivers for firearms & building computers, both of which often require a very specific size. Even then I didn't have anything that would work without chewing that screw up pretty badly. The slot appeared to be about half the depth of the ones pictured on the site. There just wasn't enough sidewall on the slot for a screwdriver to get a hold of. Combine that with brass being as soft as it is, it wasn't pretty. I talked with Blake at Domo & he's swapping the adapter out for me.

Regarding the pin, I'm sure the problem is on the Ant. It was designed to be the smallest on the market when it was originally released (and it still is the 2nd smallest, only by 1mm) so they crunched everything down as much as possible. I'm pretty sure the 201 threading is just a bit shorter than the Paps & GUS mods. I found a work around for the time being - I split the gap between the Heron & the switch on the Ant so there's a little gap on each end of the tube, but each have enough threads engaged so it's working safely. I may have to get an extra brass pin & shorten it by 1-2mm for a perfect fit on the Ant. I'll still need the regular pin since I have both a Paps & a GUS on the wishlist.

 

[perseas]

Thanks for the reply. So the adapter must be disassembled into the 2 parts by removing the brass screw to install no matter what? If that's the case, the only issue with mine was the screw itself. I've got quite the collection of screwdrivers for firearms & building computers, both of which often require a very specific size. Even then I didn't have anything that would work without chewing that screw up pretty badly. The slot appeared to be about half the depth of the ones pictured on the site. There just wasn't enough sidewall on the slot for a screwdriver to get a hold of. Combine that with brass being as soft as it is, it wasn't pretty. I talked with Blake at Domo & he's swapping the adapter out for me.

Regarding the pin, I'm sure the problem is on the Ant. It was designed to be the smallest on the market when it was originally released (and it still is the 2nd smallest, only by 1mm) so they crunched everything down as much as possible. I'm pretty sure the 201 threading is just a bit shorter than the Paps & GUS mods. I found a work around for the time being - I split the gap between the Heron & the switch on the Ant so there's a little gap on each end of the tube, but each have enough threads engaged so it's working safely. I may have to get an extra brass pin & shorten it by 1-2mm for a perfect fit on the Ant. I'll still need the regular pin since I have both a Paps & a GUS on the wishlist.

Yes, the brass screw must be disassembled a priori, because if it is in its place, it will stop the adapter base to screw flush around the Heron's base. Ask him to check the screw of the adapter he is sending to you for having a deep slot please.

We use M20 with 1 mm pitch calibrated threading with a tolerance of 0,05 mm since April 2013, but other modders use M20x1 without calibration.

 

[Ozwald]

Yes, the brass screw must be disassembled a priori, because if it is in its place, it will stop the adapter base to screw flush around the Heron's base. Ask him to check the screw of the adapter he is sending to you for having a deep slot please.

We use M20 with 1 mm pitch calibrated threading with a tolerance of 0,05 mm since April 2013, but other modders use M20x1 without calibration.

Originally he was going to wait to send the new one out until he received this one back. But I emailed him today to let him know that the "junk" one was in the mail & when to expect it, he said my replacement got sent out today as well. I just have to keep my fingers crossed at this point. I'll post a photo when the new one arrives (provided Photobucket is working again ).

The deal with the Ant has to just be it's short length. If I take the switch off & the battery out, the Heron screws on all the way smooth as silk. There's just not enough room in there with an authentic AW IMR button top. If the switch is screwed on all the way & I really compress that spring in the Heron, I can get about a thread's worth screwed on before the pin bottoms out & the spring is fully compressed. It'd work, but I'm not comfortable with the Heron hanging on by a thread, as it were. If I back the switch out a bit & split that gap I can get a few threads on the switch & the Heron both. It has a small gap on either side, but they're both on there solid & safe. I just need to shorten the pin a touch for the Ant's small stature to get both the Heron & the switch back flush again.

 

[perseas]

Originally he was going to wait to send the new one out until he received this one back. But I emailed him today to let him know that the "junk" one was in the mail & when to expect it, he said my replacement got sent out today as well. I just have to keep my fingers crossed at this point. I'll post a photo when the new one arrives (provided Photobucket is working again ).

The deal with the Ant has to just be it's short length. If I take the switch off & the battery out, the Heron screws on all the way smooth as silk. There's just not enough room in there with an authentic AW IMR button top. If the switch is screwed on all the way & I really compress that spring in the Heron, I can get about a thread's worth screwed on before the pin bottoms out & the spring is fully compressed. It'd work, but I'm not comfortable with the Heron hanging on by a thread, as it were. If I back the switch out a bit & split that gap I can get a few threads on the switch & the Heron both. It has a small gap on either side, but they're both on there solid & safe. I just need to shorten the pin a touch for the Ant's small stature to get both the Heron & the switch back flush again.

In case the replacement adapter has a shallow slot again, pm me and I will send you a new brass pin ASAP, no worries.

The matter with the Ant, is their attempt to make it as small as they could. I've found genuine AW IMR batteries to have a varied length of 1 mm more or less and this have been taken in account when we designed the GP PAPS parts. Check the short pin of the GPin, it is in the bag with the spares.