GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Heron

[Ozwald]

In case the replacement adapter has a shallow slot again, pm me and I will send you a new brass pin ASAP, no worries.

The matter with the Ant, is their attempt to make it as small they could. I've found genuine AW IMR batteries to have a varied length of 1 mm more or less and this have been taken in account when we designed the GP PAPS parts. Check the short pin of the GPin, it is in the bag with the spares.

Someone else mentioned the spare pin as well. At first I thought it was just a replacement until that was brought up. Unfortunately the shorter of the 2 pins was already installed & the one I was trying it with. I still love my Ant, but since a Paps & a GUS are both on my wishlist, my solution is to order an extra short pin & take 1 to 2 mm off from it (I have a small shop capable of that sort of modification). That way I'll still have both of the original length pins for "regular" mods & an ever-so-slightly shortened one just for the Ant.

And thank you good sir. Let's just hope this replacement is correct & we won't have to worry about it. I will say up to this point I've been given the run-around by most of the vape-related companies I've dealt with & until now only ProVape has gone above & beyond for excellent customer service. I'm very happy to add Vapour Art & Domo to that short list. You guys seem to get it. I wish more vape companies understood that.

 

[perseas]

Someone else mentioned the spare pin as well. At first I thought it was just a replacement until that was brought up. Unfortunately the shorter of the 2 pins was already installed & the one I was trying it with. I still love my Ant, but since a Paps & a GUS are both on my wishlist, my solution is to order an extra short pin & take 1 to 2 mm off from it (I have a small shop capable of that sort of modification). That way I'll still have both of the original length pins for "regular" mods & an ever-so-slightly shortened one just for the Ant.

And thank you good sir. Let's just hope this replacement is correct & we won't have to worry about it. I will say up to this point I've been given the run-around by most of the vape-related companies I've dealt with & until now only ProVape has gone above & beyond for excellent customer service. I'm very happy to add Vapour Art & Domo to that short list. You guys seem to get it. I wish more vape companies understood that.

Thank you very much for your patience and your kind words and whatever else you may need I am a pm or an email (info@vapourart.com) away. Send your address details to our email and I'll be happy to send you a short pin to modify it as you wish.

 

[Ozwald]

Thank you so much Perseas. I just shot you an email. Cheers!

 

[perseas]

Email response was sent, you're most welcome

 

[SoonerChris]

Welp, thanks to a forum member I have a Heron that will be here tomorrow.

I almost totally forgot that I won't be able to stick it on my Provari to check resistance. However, I have a pretty good idea what it takes to build a 1.4ohm coil for my first build (been building these on my KFL+ consistently).

So, what do you all recommend for a multimeter from either Home Depot or Amazon so I can ensure everything is good to go going forward?


Sent from my iPhone

 

[Ozwald]

If you're going to buy a standard multimeter, I'd go with a Fluke, no question. You can get those cheapies, but they're so inaccurate they won't do you much good other than as a continuity tester (is it shorted or not). You can get a digital Fluke for a fairly decent price online.

I got my replacement 510 adapter today. The screw looks better than the one I sent back, but I'm still a little hesitant to remove it.

I also have one of those Herons en route... just for the GUS G22 that will be here tomorrow. Man, I was bad this month.

 

[SoonerChris]

If you're going to buy a standard multimeter, I'd go with a Fluke, no question. You can get those cheapies, but they're so inaccurate they won't do you much good other than as a continuity tester (is it shorted or not). You can get a digital Fluke for a fairly decent price online.

I got my replacement 510 adapter today. The screw looks better than the one I sent back, but I'm still a little hesitant to remove it.

I also have one of those Herons en route... just for the GUS G22 that will be here tomorrow. Man, I was bad this month.

I would love to get a Fluke but I was going to try and keep cost under $30. I'm not going to be building low, low sub ohm builds so I figured a reasonably priced MM would work.


Sent from my iPhone

 

[Ozwald]

I would love to get a Fluke but I was going to try and keep cost under $30. I'm not going to be building low, low sub ohm builds so I figured a reasonably priced MM would work.


Sent from my iPhone

If you don't mind being off by half an ohm or more, they'd work I suppose. I used to keep one of those $10 CheapcellphoneShack meters in my desk, but it wasn't much more than a continuity tester on the resistance setting.

 

[SoonerChris]

If you don't mind being off by half an ohm or more, they'd work I suppose. I used to keep one of those $10 CheapcellphoneShack meters in my desk, but it wasn't much more than a continuity tester on the resistance setting.

If I don't get a Fluke cant I just touch leads and subtract the internal resistance from my build?


Sent from my iPhone

 

[Ozwald]

If I don't get a Fluke cant I just touch leads and subtract the internal resistance from my build?


Sent from my iPhone

The problem is in the component tolerances that are wide enough to drive a bus through. They're just not accurate on that sort of a scale. The vape-specific ones would be better at that point... still loose tolerances, but they're built to take a much smaller range than a general meter designed to test across a wide range. The cheapies will keep you from venting a battery since you're not building low, but I just wouldn't count on them being able to give you an even somewhat accurate reading that 1 ohm reading might be 0.7 or it might be 1.7.

Considering you said you've got experience building on the Kayfun platform, I wouldn't worry about it that much as long as you don't try to completely change up your coils. I do the same for my Heron... I haven't tested a single build on it... but I make absolutely sure that they're heating evenly, I'm not touching a post mid-coil & that I'm using almost identical coils to what I was building on my KFL's that were tested on my Provaris.

 

[SoonerChris]

The problem is in the component tolerances that are wide enough to drive a bus through. They're just not accurate on that sort of a scale. The vape-specific ones would be better at that point... still loose tolerances, but they're built to take a much smaller range than a general meter designed to test across a wide range. The cheapies will keep you from venting a battery since you're not building low, but I just wouldn't count on them being able to give you an even somewhat accurate reading that 1 ohm reading might be 0.7 or it might be 1.7.

Considering you said you've got experience building on the Kayfun platform, I wouldn't worry about it that much as long as you don't try to completely change up your coils. I do the same for my Heron... I haven't tested a single build on it... but I make absolutely sure that they're heating evenly, I'm not touching a post mid-coil & that I'm using almost identical coils to what I was building on my KFL's that were tested on my Provaris.

And that's exactly what I plan on doing. I'm not changing a thing. From what I have read, 1.4 is ideal for a Heron.


Sent from my iPhone

 

[Ozwald]

Then I would just skip a meter, personally. Unless you want something to make sure you're not shorted out... then just get one of those cheapies for $10-15 or whatever they're going for these days. You're not going to get anything extra worthwhile for vaping by spending an extra $20.

ETA: As a longtime KFL user, I did notice one thing. The Heron doesn't quite put out the flavor with it's shallow/wide chamber that you get out of the KFL. I use one less wrap (twisted 32g on a fairly large mandrel) for the Heron. I'm probably dropping 0.2 ohms or so by doing it.. or increasing the power by a watt or so, depending on how you want to look at it, to get a fairly similar vape.

 

[perseas]

If you want to make a comparison between Heron and Kayfun in equal terms, you have to use Heron as a tank system having in mind, it wasn't designed to be used as such in the first place.

It is not just the operation of holding and transferring the liquid that matters, or the size of the chamber, but in what way these functions can be applied, in terms of flavour transference.

It is a combination of different factors rather than only one reason. The fluff holds the juice in its pores in a "non liquid state", so the flavour molecules are released in a constant base, perfuming the chamber. During the draw, the vapour passes thru this semiliquid medium mixes with it and returns to the chimney enriched and then it becomes condensed and arrives to the drip tip in a cooler temperature (more flavour notes). Add to the recipe, that the liquid is not "cooked" as it may happen in a tank system, but it works mostly like a dripper and all these combined factors work as flavour enhancers.

"Non liquid state" means that the liquid is mixed with air inside the fluff, so it is not pure liquid, as it would be the case in a tank and that affects the flavour transference for 5 combined reasons:
1. The liquid is dispersed in drops and droplets perfuming the chamber.
2. The liquid isn't "cooked".
3. The produced vapour circulating in there is becoming more flavoured, because it is enriched further.
4. The wicking works as in a dripper via drops.
5. The mixture of liquid with air + air gives more aromatic draw than a mixture of liquid + air due to the way the internal pressure works in Spheroid and Heron.

You're right about the inexpensive multimeters, most of them are pretty inaccurate as Ohmeters.
I always carry with me a Mastech 8216 DMM, because it is relatively accurate, inexpensive and it's really small.

 

[Ozwald]

Don't get me wrong, since I've got my 1 (soon to be 2) Heron, my 4 authentic KFL's haven't seen a lot of action. It's a fantastic atty.

To elaborate:

Flavor production is not as good as the KFL's, it just has many more features that put it a step above. I've heard from a reliable source (who seems to own every atty/mod out there) that the Spheroid's flavor production is far above that of the Heron. I just don't have a use for a 16mm atty (or I'd probably have 3 or 4 of them!).

Across multiple attys, all of different styles of operation, I've noticed one big factor that makes a big difference in flavor production - the geometry of the chamber. Short, wide 'tuna can' chambers don't seem to condense the flavor as well as tall, narrow 'soup can' chambers, regardless of any other differences in design. Keep in mind I'm talking about the density of the flavor, not quality/cleanness/what-have-you. There's just more of it when it's condensed like that.

Personally I'm a low power vaper & I really enjoy 6-8w typically (on my KFL's). What I've found with the Heron is by lowering the resistance of my coil (& therefore increasing the power), I'm getting that flavor density that I'm after. Instead of 8w, I'll be vaping it around 10-11w.

With the flavor density matched, I would certainly agree that the flavor coming from the Heron is much cleaner & not 'cooked'.

 

[Ozwald]

PS, my favorite meters are still the old Simpsons. Small? Nope. Portable? Not with how big, heavy & bulky they were. Digital? Pfft, nothing was back then. But they were awesome & every bit as accurate as the Flukes are these days.

If I had to buy a new workhorse tomorrow, Fluke hands down. If I needed one around the house/shop that no one else was going to touch & it wouldn't see heavy action... I'd probably spring for an old Simpson for the nostalgia factor.

 

[perseas]

During the prototyping of Heron, we tried longer bells and reducers in the chamber. We decided though to follow a shorter design with fewer parts, a minimal one, easier to handle and refill. In design, everything is about choices, trades.

Not all juices give the same flavour with all atties. Taste is subjective, for example I don't like the condensed flavour from my Kayfun when I use GVC, but other people love it

 

[SoonerChris]

ETA: As a longtime KFL user, I did notice one thing. The Heron doesn't quite put out the flavor with it's shallow/wide chamber that you get out of the KFL. I use one less wrap (twisted 32g on a fairly large mandrel) for the Heron. I'm probably dropping 0.2 ohms or so by doing it.. or increasing the power by a watt or so, depending on how you want to look at it, to get a fairly similar vape.

So are you a fluff or cotton/non-fluff user? Heron will be here today and don't know if Bill is including any fluff. If he doesn't I'm surely not waiting until I can get some from Domo. I've seen both builds and am comfortable building either.

 

[FearTX]

I own 3 Fluke meters, the cheapest of which is right @ 300$ They get calibrated annually and are well cared for.

The most accurate of them is still .3 off when you ground the leads together, these are good fluke leads as well.

The problem with any multimeter is that they are designed to a certain tolerance and are calibrated to the middle of their range. Meaning that most often at the edges of the range is where the largest error is going to be. Multimeters designed with pinpoint accuracy in the 0 to 6 ohm range are prohibitively expensive to buy for vaping.

I own 2 510 meters from Home (they are on vacation for a week I think)

They are both what I consider to be dead on accurate when I have checked them with some reference resistors. .25, .5, 1, 1.5, and 2 ohms. One is dead on to three decimal places and the other is off by .001

For under 30 bucks for a 510 ohm meter that is pretty fantastic. I have heard that The Friday Morning The Friday Morning is very accurate as well. I do not own one so cannot comment.


Oh and hello, been a while since I checked in here.

 

[Woody7781]

I own 3 Fluke meters, the cheapest of which is right @ 300$ They get calibrated annually and are well cared for.

The most accurate of them is still .3 off when you ground the leads together, these are good fluke leads as well.

The problem with any multimeter is that they are designed to a certain tolerance and are calibrated to the middle of their range. Meaning that most often at the edges of the range is where the largest error is going to be. Multimeters designed with pinpoint accuracy in the 0 to 6 ohm range are prohibitively expensive to buy for vaping.

I own 2 510 meters from Home (they are on vacation for a week I think)

They are both what I consider to be dead on accurate when I have checked them with some reference resistors. .25, .5, 1, 1.5, and 2 ohms. One is dead on to three decimal places and the other is off by .001

For under 30 bucks for a 510 ohm meter that is pretty fantastic. I have heard that The Friday Morning The Friday Morning is very accurate as well. I do not own one so cannot comment.


Oh and hello, been a while since I checked in here.

I own the USA meter. They are very accurate. You can watch the vids where it is compared against the FLUKE system and see how close it is. I also had a cheap regular one and find that even sub ohming it's still relatively close.

 

[SoonerChris]

Got my first build done and have a question. Did KGD cotton wick/fluff and the draw is incredibly (unvapable) tight. AFC ring is open, any ideas where I might have missed?