GP Series by VapourArt - Official Thread for GP Heron
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I'm with you guys on just leaving it be, might just buy a v 1.5 base and see how well the sloted afc works. But then again I just might as well buy a second heron and have two to enjoy. But first thing firsg its time to stack some cash and ready myself for the ti release. That way I will have all three versions of the X in my possession.
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So I have been stuck purely vaping GVC with my Heron and due to less than 20ml's left must find a new flavor. What ejuice you Heron users vaping besides GVC?
I LOVE GVC, but I found that a close second is Custard's Last Stand by Nicoticket....it's really not too far off from GVC....give it a try!!
WTB - Heron V1 Bell. The non updated one. Usually those that purchase the Heron when it first released received a replacement bell from Vapourart. Want to tinker with it a bit. PM me if u have one lying around that u wouldn't mind selling.
I LOVE GVC, but I found that a close second is Custard's Last Stand by Nicoticket....it's really not too far off from GVC....give it a try!!
Since GVC is out of stock at the moment, I just bought 50ml of the Nicoticket CLS, thanks for the suggestion!
CLS is definitely good stuff....you will love it!!
I find cls to be more vanilla forward than gvc. Not bad, just different. Lots of custard choices these days.
Hey guys,
So I posted in the "main thread" yesterday about how I was having a shorting issue with one of my new Herons. Basically, if I build anything with kanthal that is thicker than 30ga, then the 2 Terminal screws sit too high (because the wire is wrapped around the base of the screw) and short out up against the cotton topper/plate. I have the EXACT same 28ga. build on my other heron and it is working wonderfully. I initially thought it was becuase I built my coil too high, but I found that the screws are DEFINITELY making contact with the inside of the topper plate....
So what am I doing wrong? The only way I have found to resolve this issue is either to run it without the topper (which I don't want to do). Or, I can loosen the "coupler ring" that the topper screws into so that the topper sits higher, but then the entire top of my Heron is wobbly!
Surely I should be able to run 28ga. Kanthal in my Heron without an issue, right? Why are the 2 terminal screws shorting out against the inside of the topper plate? I can't figure out how to resolve this for the life of me....
Any suggestions? I really would like to be able to run this heron with the topper plate, but it just seems like the tolerance between the top of the screws (with 28ga. Kathal wrapped around them) and the inside of the topper plate should be more than it is.....The screws are easily making contact with the inside of the topper plate.....
Is it possible that maybe I got a bad coupler ring, or maybe a topper plate that was machined incorrectly? have any of you run into this issue before? I would say that it is human error, but I have rebuilt this thing at least 10x now, and every time the same thing happens....shorting out of the screws inside the topper... Kepp in mind, the other Heron I got is working a treat, so this further solidifies the suspicion that it could be a bad part...
Any and all advice/tips/suggestions are welcome!! I just want to be able to use both of my Herons without incident!!
So I posted in the "main thread" yesterday about how I was having a shorting issue with one of my new Herons. Basically, if I build anything with kanthal that is thicker than 30ga, then the 2 Terminal screws sit too high (because the wire is wrapped around the base of the screw) and short out up against the cotton topper/plate. I have the EXACT same 28ga. build on my other heron and it is working wonderfully. I initially thought it was becuase I built my coil too high, but I found that the screws are DEFINITELY making contact with the inside of the topper plate....
So what am I doing wrong? The only way I have found to resolve this issue is either to run it without the topper (which I don't want to do). Or, I can loosen the "coupler ring" that the topper screws into so that the topper sits higher, but then the entire top of my Heron is wobbly!
Surely I should be able to run 28ga. Kanthal in my Heron without an issue, right? Why are the 2 terminal screws shorting out against the inside of the topper plate? I can't figure out how to resolve this for the life of me....
Any suggestions? I really would like to be able to run this heron with the topper plate, but it just seems like the tolerance between the top of the screws (with 28ga. Kathal wrapped around them) and the inside of the topper plate should be more than it is.....The screws are easily making contact with the inside of the topper plate.....
Is it possible that maybe I got a bad coupler ring, or maybe a topper plate that was machined incorrectly? have any of you run into this issue before? I would say that it is human error, but I have rebuilt this thing at least 10x now, and every time the same thing happens....shorting out of the screws inside the topper...
Kepp in mind, the other Heron I got is working a treat, so this further solidifies the suspicion that it could be a bad part...Any and all advice/tips/suggestions are welcome!! I just want to be able to use both of my Herons without incident!!
Hey guys,
So I posted in the "main thread" yesterday about how I was having a shorting issue with one of my new Herons. Basically, if I build anything with kanthal that is thicker than 30ga, then the 2 Terminal screws sit too high (because the wire is wrapped around the base of the screw) and short out up against the cotton topper/plate. I have the EXACT same 28ga. build on my other heron and it is working wonderfully. I initially thought it was becuase I built my coil too high, but I found that the screws are DEFINITELY making contact with the inside of the topper plate....
So what am I doing wrong? The only way I have found to resolve this issue is either to run it without the topper (which I don't want to do). Or, I can loosen the "coupler ring" that the topper screws into so that the topper sits higher, but then the entire top of my Heron is wobbly!
Surely I should be able to run 28ga. Kanthal in my Heron without an issue, right? Why are the 2 terminal screws shorting out against the inside of the topper plate? I can't figure out how to resolve this for the life of me....
Any suggestions? I really would like to be able to run this heron with the topper plate, but it just seems like the tolerance between the top of the screws (with 28ga. Kathal wrapped around them) and the inside of the topper plate should be more than it is.....The screws are easily making contact with the inside of the topper plate.....
Is it possible that maybe I got a bad coupler ring, or maybe a topper plate that was machined incorrectly? have any of you run into this issue before? I would say that it is human error, but I have rebuilt this thing at least 10x now, and every time the same thing happens....shorting out of the screws inside the topper...
Any and all advice/tips/suggestions are welcome!! I just want to be able to use both of my Herons without incident!!
Not really sure, I'm currently running 26ga in my Heron with no issues at all. Maybe try checking that the posts are screwed down all the way from underneath the Heron deck. That's the only thing I can think of.
Hey guys,
So I posted in the "main thread" yesterday about how I was having a shorting issue with one of my new Herons. Basically, if I build anything with kanthal that is thicker than 30ga, then the 2 Terminal screws sit too high (because the wire is wrapped around the base of the screw) and short out up against the cotton topper/plate. I have the EXACT same 28ga. build on my other heron and it is working wonderfully. I initially thought it was becuase I built my coil too high, but I found that the screws are DEFINITELY making contact with the inside of the topper plate....
So what am I doing wrong? The only way I have found to resolve this issue is either to run it without the topper (which I don't want to do). Or, I can loosen the "coupler ring" that the topper screws into so that the topper sits higher, but then the entire top of my Heron is wobbly!
Surely I should be able to run 28ga. Kanthal in my Heron without an issue, right? Why are the 2 terminal screws shorting out against the inside of the topper plate? I can't figure out how to resolve this for the life of me....
Any suggestions? I really would like to be able to run this heron with the topper plate, but it just seems like the tolerance between the top of the screws (with 28ga. Kathal wrapped around them) and the inside of the topper plate should be more than it is.....The screws are easily making contact with the inside of the topper plate.....
Is it possible that maybe I got a bad coupler ring, or maybe a topper plate that was machined incorrectly? have any of you run into this issue before? I would say that it is human error, but I have rebuilt this thing at least 10x now, and every time the same thing happens....shorting out of the screws inside the topper...
Any and all advice/tips/suggestions are welcome!! I just want to be able to use both of my Herons without incident!!
You can exchange parts between the 2 Herons to find what causes the issue, but I have to suggest you to return it where it was purchased and a replacement unit will be sent back to you plus the return shipping. I gave you the same answer in my response to your pm
Yeah, that's a possibility. I will check that when I get home. Although I did remove the 2 Terminal screws, and you know how the female part that the screw screws into is slotted? Well I tried tightening them with a flathead, and they would not budge. This tells me that they're probably tightened all the way down.... hmmmmm......
There's no way in heck that I'd be able to run 26ga. on this Heron. The Terminal screws are high enough with NO wire wrapped around them, let alone some 26ga!!! I dunno....my other one is working excellent, so I don't get it....
You can exchange parts between the 2 Herons to find what causes the issue, but I have to suggest you to return it where it was purchased and a replacement unit will be sent back to you plus the return shipping. I gave you the same answer in my response to your pm
Thanks, Perseas! I appreicate it. I will try swapping parts out tonight if I get a chance, that way I can hopefully isolate the cause. I will also contact Domo. I figure they would not return it as it has already had liquid in it, but we'll see what they say....
Thanks again!!
Thanks, Perseas! I appreicate it. I will try swapping parts out tonight if I get a chance, that way I can hopefully isolate the cause. I will also contact Domo. I figure they would not return it as it has already had liquid in it, but we'll see what they say....
Thanks again!!
If it's a legitimate issue, which is sounds like, then Blake should take care of you. Especially if Perseas says so.
Thanks, Perseas! I appreicate it. I will try swapping parts out tonight if I get a chance, that way I can hopefully isolate the cause. I will also contact Domo. I figure they would not return it as it has already had liquid in it, but we'll see what they say....
Thanks again!!
There is no difference if you speak with me or him, but it's a good idea to clean it before you send it back
There is no difference if you speak with me or him, but it's a good idea to clean it before you send it back
Absolutely....Will do!!
Thanks again!! I will start by swapping toppers to see if I can isolate the cause...I will keep you all posted... thanks again!!
I'll do a cotton build using the topper right now jpc, and let you know how it goes.
Oh cool! That sounds good, Todai! The Heron works great with cotton...I know because I am running my other Heron with cotton and microcoils and it vapes extraordinarily well! I tried doing the exact same build using 28ga. Kanthal and cotton, and that's when I ran into the issue on my second one.....
I can see through the hole that the wick passes though, and there's virtually no clearance between the top of the screws and the inside of the topper (with 28ga. Kanthal wrapped around the base of the screws). I made sure that I was NOT wrapping the kanthal all the way around the screw, which would elevate the screw even more....
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