Help me decide a mech mod please.

[Adam harris]

I'm going to be running an original lemo tank with a 2ohm coil. I will be using 25r batteries.
Which mech clone is the safest and durable. IM Looking for a stainless steel type.
I've thought about the stingrays,nemisis,kingz v2, but I also want adequate vent holes. If I have to drill holes I will. Safety is top priority.
I've done a lot of research on ohms law and amp limits as well as battery safety. Still though I'd want a mech with a locking ring. I've heard recessed buttons are safer but I don't want the negative side of the battery to come into contact with anything until I unlock the ring and push the button to fire it. This will be my first mech so I don't want any hybrids too start out.
I'm not particularly just fixed on the mechs I mentioned but I AM 100% NOT wanting a mech that has an extremely close contact to the negative side of batteries UNLESS I unlock the ring and then I still want a little room just in case it does random fire because of negative contact with button.
I hope this makes sense.
I'm open for suggestions.

 

[javyn]

All the ones you mentioned would be fine really.

A 2 ohm coil on a mech though is going to be a lousy vape. 6 - 8 watts? You may as well stick with an Ego/CE4 system lol. I'm thinking you should shoot for 1 ohm instead.

 

[javyn]

I, personally like the Nemesis. But the King is supposedly very good as well. I think it's 23mm though instead of 22. If I'm wrong someone correct me.

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

 

[Adam harris]

All the ones you mentioned would be fine really.

A 2 ohm coil on a mech though is going to be a lousy vape. 6 - 8 watts? You may as well stick with an Ego/CE4 system lol. I'm thinking you should shoot for 1 ohm instead.

I appreciate the honesty! 8 watts? Yea that's to low for me. 1 ohm is what I will do possibly may have to go to 26g wire. What resistance would allow a mech to push for 20 watts. 20 watts is my sweet spot or 18-25w will do but I tend to really like 20ish. I'm lazy and don't want to use a calc lol. Makes for good conversation doesn't it?

One question that seems to go unanswered for me though is this; Will the negative on the battery be in contact with any part of the mech at all times?

 

[Adam harris]

I, personally like the Nemesis. But the King is supposedly very good as well. I think it's 23mm though instead of 22. If I'm wrong someone correct me.

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

Ok thanks! Does the nemesis have a rice pin? I've heard of a rice pin but have no idea what it is honestly. Does the negative side on the battery come in contact with any part of the nemesis other then when it's fired?

 

[sig-cmt]

Pro Series Panzer Mod.

 

[javyn]

Yeah it has a rice pin, its tiny and don't lose it lol but you can clip off a piece of wire hanger as a replacement if you need to.

The switch has an insulator so that'll be touching the battery. And for a couple bucks you can get a hybrid adapter later on if you wanted

1 ohm will give you 17 to 14 watts from 4.2v to 3.7.

0.7 ohm will give ya 20 watts at 3.7v if that's what ya want. Of course wattage will be higher on a full charge.

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

 

[Adam harris]

Yeah it has a rice pin, its tiny and don't lose it lol but you can clip off a piece of wire hanger as a replacement if you need to.

The switch has an insulator so that'll be touching the battery. And for a couple bucks you can get a hybrid adapter later on if you wanted

1 ohm will give you 17 to 14 watts from 4.2v to 3.7.

0.7 ohm will give ya 20 watts at 3.7v if that's what ya want. Of course wattage will be
higher on a full charge.

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

Ok thanks for letting me know! So the negative side of the battery is in contact with the insulator on the firing button? How much space is there from the firing button to the negative side on the battery?
If I'm understanding correctly where the insulator is....would that insulator be the gap to separate the firing button from the negative side of battery that would prevent it from auto firing?
How much space is there from the firing button and the negative side of the battery? Insulator included.
I know I ask a lot of questions lol.

 

[edyle]

Ok thanks for letting me know! So the negative side of the battery is in contact with the insulator on the firing button? How much space is there from the firing button to the negative side on the battery?
If I'm understanding correctly where the insulator is....would that insulator be the gap to separate the firing button from the negative side of battery that would prevent it from auto firing?
How much space is there from the firing button and the negative side of the battery? Insulator included.
I know I ask a lot of questions lol.

https://www.fasttech.com/products/3027/10009160/1448300

 

[edyle]

I've been longing for a 69, but it's always out of stock at fasttech

it is telescopic and it is top fired, and the fire mechanism is big, obvious, and very fixable.

 

[javyn]

Picture's worth a thousand words heh. Also, that smallest ring stays off. People often think they have a bad one b/c it won't fire, but that's because they leave that beauty ring on.

 

[Bad Ninja]

I'm going to be running an original lemo tank with a 2ohm coil. I will be using 25r batteries.
Which mech clone is the safest and durable. IM Looking for a stainless steel type.
I've thought about the stingrays,nemisis,kingz v2, but I also want adequate vent holes. If I have to drill holes I will. Safety is top priority.
I've done a lot of research on ohms law and amp limits as well as battery safety. Still though I'd want a mech with a locking ring. I've heard recessed buttons are safer but I don't want the negative side of the battery to come into contact with anything until I unlock the ring and push the button to fire it. This will be my first mech so I don't want any hybrids too start out.
I'm not particularly just fixed on the mechs I mentioned but I AM 100% NOT wanting a mech that has an extremely close contact to the negative side of batteries UNLESS I unlock the ring and then I still want a little room just in case it does random fire because of negative contact with button.
I hope this makes sense.
I'm open for suggestions.

Since you want to run tanks at over 1.0 ohms, you should ask yourself why a mechanical?
A regulated device might be a better idea.
It's it the mec "look" that you are after? (If so, bad idea)

Do you enjoy building and tinkering?

Do you understand "why" mech users prefer mechanicals?

Mechanicals aren't complicated, it's pretty basic electronics, however most people seem to lack that bit of science, which is okay, but can lead to problems and user error.

They are mechanical devices and can bite you if you don't understand how they work.

I would recommend using a kick if you do get a mechanical mod, until you really understand what's going on.

 

[Adam harris]

Since you want to run tanks at over 1.0 ohms, you should ask yourself why a mechanical?
A regulated device might be a better idea.
It's it the mec "look" that you are after? (If so, bad idea)

Do you enjoy building and tinkering?

Do you understand "why" mech users prefer mechanicals?

Mechanicals aren't complicated, it's pretty basic electronics, however most people seem to lack that bit of science, which is okay, but can lead to problems and user error.

They are mechanical devices and can bite you if you don't understand how they work.

I would recommend using a kick if you do get a mechanical mod, until you really understand what's going on.

Yea I like the looks of mechs and I also like the simplicity of them.

Why a mechanical? The main reason I want a mech is to be prepared in case of fda regulation and because I just want something more reliable,simple, and less likely to mess up. If I run 1ohm or higher then a kick would provide 15 watts consistently.

I have a istick 50w

I like the idea of contact points to fire a battery to get a vape,and I think the basic electronics of a mech are simple as the negative side of the battery coming into contact with the firing button and the positive side of the battery send volts to the coil via atomizer post. Is that the basic electronics of it?

Maybe I'm missing something? If so let me know.

If I build a .6 ohm single coil I would get around 30 watts on a fresh battery.

I would never go below .4 ohm on a mech.

I usually build the average micro coil and on rare occasions twisted coils.

The only reason I would think people prefer mechs would be simplicity and lack of parts that could fail.

I may be wrong..if so what am I missing?

 

[Adam harris]

Thank you all!

 

[Bad Ninja]

Mechs are very simple, but there is a safety learning curve.
You need to understand how the mod works ( they are all based on the same basic principle).

You need to learn how to avoid common problems that cause failure.

You need to understand that shorts can happen, batteries can fail, and what to do in case that happens.

Read as much as possible and ask us any question you have no matter how silly it sounds.

You'll be fine, just take it slow and do the research.

 

[Adam harris]

Mechs are very simple, but there is a safety learning curve.
You need to understand how the mod works ( they are all based on the same basic principle).

You need to learn how to avoid common problems that cause failure.

You need to understand that shorts can happen, batteries can fail, and what to do in case that happens.

Read as much as possible and ask us any question you have no matter how silly it sounds.

You'll be fine, just take it slow and do the research.

Ok. Just ordered a nemesis SS clone with a pair of new 25r and a nightcore charger.
Also got an ohm reader.

What kind of problems do I need to avoid? Is it ok to take a battery off the charger and put it in the mech without a rest period?

 

[Bad Ninja]

Ok. Just ordered a nemesis SS clone with a pair of new 25r and a nightcore charger.
Also got an ohm reader.

What kind of problems do I need to avoid? Is it ok to take a battery off the charger and put it in the mech without a rest period?

I don't let mine rest.
Lol

The Nemmy is a great mod.
I have 3.
When the Nemesis arrives:
Remove the thin beauty ring so the battery fits right.
Be sure the atty is set up properly, screws tight ect, and double check it on the "ohm reader" the be sure there is no shorts.
The fire button adjusts in to meet the battery.

Ita a pretty straightforward mod.

 

[Adam harris]

Ok I will check for shorts and I appreciate all the help.

I don't let mine rest.
Lol

The Nemmy is a great mod.
I have 3.
When the Nemesis arrives:
Remove the thin beauty ring so the battery fits right.
Be sure the atty is set up properly, screws tight ect, and double check it on the "ohm reader" the be sure there is no shorts.
The fire button adjusts in to meet the battery.

Ita a pretty straightforward mod.

 

[Outcast]

I got this one MCV kingpin and the atty in the pic as well still holding on my vape Mail but everything I see looks like a good one

 

[Adam harris]

I got this one MCV kingpin and the atty in the pic as well still holding on my vape Mail but everything I see looks like a good one

Nice mod! I have the nemesis clone on the way