iTaste MVP v2 Owners Group

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p.opus

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6 watts and up=5.12v

It doesn't flucuate at all.

:)

Then I don't understand how the system is working at all. 6 watts on a 2.3 ohm coil should not equate to 5.12 volts according to ohms law. It should only be shooting 3.7 volts.

Watts = Voltage * Amps. So if watts are set to 6 watts and the voltage measured is 5.12 volts, then you would be tempted to say, well that's easy, the e-cig simply regulates current. But it's not that easy.

Amps = Voltage / Resistance. Oh oh... Big problem. My 2.3 ohm coil is not adjustable, so the only way I can adjust amperage is to vary the voltage, but in the equation above, we said that voltage is a constant 5.12 volts.

So we've broken Ohms law. We simply can't have a set wattage and a set resistance with a set voltage. Something has to give.

Perhaps someone with more background on electronics can explain to me the magic.

There is no feasible way that an MVP would be outputting 5.12 volts across an entire wattage adjustment range.

Any electrical engineers want to school me?
 
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p.opus

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Ok, my VV noobness is going to show here.....

If the MVP has 3.5v left and it's set @ say 4v, does it still output that 4v?

Yes. I know it boggles the mind a bit, but remember this is more than a battery. It is a battery with a voltage regulation circuit.

The most common way this is done is using a boost/buck circuit which allows the output voltage to be either more or less than the actual voltage output of the cell.

If you google boost and buck circuits, you will get enough math to make your mind boggle, but suffice it to say that yes, it is possible that the unit will continue to output your selected voltage even if the "cell voltage" is below your setting.
 

Capt.shay

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Wow, I think Santa must have had a lot of little black boxes in his big red bag :)

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For those concerned about speaking on the connection issue, please don't hold back. We all know it is there and people are using several fixes and work-arounds. Hopefully, the more talk the, more likelihood of Innokin doing something about it. We did get one report of a newer v2 allowing a kanger T2 to work properly so maybe they have made some changes, but it was only one report. Would like to hear back from that person to if things are still working out.
 

freelinuxer

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Then I don't understand how the system is working at all. 6 watts on a 2.3 ohm coil should not equate to 5.12 volts according to ohms law. It should only be shooting 3.7 volts.

Watts = Voltage * Amps. So if watts are set to 6 watts and the voltage measured is 5.12 volts, then you would be tempted to say, well that's easy, the e-cig simply regulates current. But it's not that easy.

Amps = Voltage / Resistance. Oh oh... Big problem. My 2.3 ohm coil is not adjustable, so the only way I can adjust amperage is to vary the voltage, but in the equation above, we said that voltage is a constant 5.12 volts.

So we've broken Ohms law. We simply can't have a set wattage and a set resistance with a set voltage. Something has to give.

Perhaps someone with more background on electronics can explain to me the magic.

There is no feasible way that an MVP would be outputting 5.12 volts across an entire wattage adjustment range.

Any electrical engineers want to school me?

I thought that there must be variable resister that can supply additional resistance other than the ohm from a carto or a tank.
 

p.opus

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I thought that there must be variable resister that can supply additional resistance other than the ohm from a carto or a tank.

I suppose it's possible....However it doesn't make sense.

First of all the variable resistor would have to be an extremely low ohm resistor and would need to be variable in extremely low values.

Two, you already have the buck/boost circuitry built in to adjust voltage with the variable voltage mode. It does not make sense to add "additional" circuitry just so you can maintain constant voltage. It makes a lot more sense financially to have a simple calculating circuit that compares set wattage to indicated resistance and then automatically adjust the voltage using the same buck/boost circuitry you are using to adjust voltage in VV mode.

I don't have a inline voltage meter, so I simply am going on theory only.
 
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pufZeppelin

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Red Dog

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I suppose it's possible....However it doesn't make sense.

First of all the variable resistor would have to be an extremely low ohm resistor and would need to be variable in extremely low values.

Two, you already have the buck/boost circuitry built in to adjust voltage with the variable voltage mode. It does not make sense to add "additional" circuitry just so you can maintain constant voltage. It makes a lot more sense financially to have a simple calculating circuit that compares set wattage to indicated resistance and then automatically adjust the voltage using the same buck/boost circuitry you are using to adjust voltage in VV mode.

I don't have a inline voltage meter, so I simply am going on theory only.

I can't say how the MVP attains it's set wattage, but I do know that my Darwin will vary both the voltage, and the amperage, to get the desired wattage. I can only assume that the MVP would do the same. Exactly how this is done, I have no idea. Electrical engineering isn't my thing... although I can explain the conduction pathways of the human heart if you like... ;)
 

e-pipeman

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Just a quicky. When I take my MVP off of an overnight charge the battery reads 4.2v. I take about two puffs and it is at 4.1v. It stays there for a while, and for ages at 4.0v before it starts to drop. Is mine unusual in dropping so quickly from 4.2?

Apart from that this thing hasn't been out of my hand since I got it (well, ok, not in the bathroom). :)
 

freelinuxer

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I can't imagine how much juice I would go through with an iClear 30. Not only do those wicks soak up a lot of juice, but cleaning would be a real bear I think. It would take forever to dry the wick after cleaning and I imagine quite a bit of juice would end up down the drain during cleaning due to the number of wicks.
I use a Mini Protank 2 and can vape it nearly dry. It's also easy to clean and dry the head since there is so little wick to worry about. not only that, because I can fully disassemble it, I can empty a tank, clean and dry the parts, dry burn the wick and fill and reassemble in less than 5 minutes. To each their own though.

It's exact reason why I prefer protanks (mine is regular PT2). I've been using them without issues. The ones(I 16's) that came with MVP are sitting in my drawer for backups. Even when I need to use those I16's or I30, I'd shorten the wicks.. just too long for my taste. I am not saying that I am right, but somehow I can't stand long wicks.. :toast:
 
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freelinuxer

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I can't say how the MVP attains it's set wattage, but I do know that my Darwin will vary both the voltage, and the amperage, to get the desired wattage. I can only assume that the MVP would do the same. Exactly how this is done, I have no idea. Electrical engineering isn't my thing... although I can explain the conduction pathways of the human heart if you like... ;)
Glad to know that someone in med biz is a fellow vaporer. I started on vaping due to my heart problem thinking that it'd be much better than smoking.

I suppose it's possible....However it doesn't make sense.
First of all the variable resistor would have to be an extremely low ohm resistor and would need to be variable in extremely low values.
Two, you already have the buck/boost circuitry built in to adjust voltage with the variable voltage mode. It does not make sense to add "additional" circuitry just so you can maintain constant voltage. It makes a lot more sense financially to have a simple calculating circuit that compares set wattage to indicated resistance and then automatically adjust the voltage using the same buck/boost circuitry you are using to adjust voltage in VV mode.
I don't have a inline voltage meter, so I simply am going on theory only.
I wish someone can enlighten us with this mystery.

Just a quicky. When I take my MVP off of an overnight charge the battery reads 4.2v. I take about two puffs and it is at 4.1v. It stays there for a while, and for ages at 4.0v before it starts to drop. Is mine unusual in dropping so quickly from 4.2?
Apart from that this thing hasn't been out of my hand since I got it (well, ok, not in the bathroom). :)
My other vv mods do the same thing. I think it's the nature of batteries (even car battery). They show around 4.1 - 4.2 at full charge and then drops to the stable voltage.
 
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