any day without a cig is a great day........hang on till ya make it, day at a time, or an hour at a time if ya have to 
Carto... tanks?? Im not either. I figured cartos were the membrane deals you filled up (slowly) that they had as testers at the vape stores. Ill have to look into this.I'm not very familiar with carto tanks. But I will definitely experiment. From my understanding, the nautilus mini is almost a compressed/simplified version of a carto tank. Is this even close to accurate? Because it actually has filler material in the coil, and the coil sticks up a bit like a cartomizer would.
Carto... tanks?? Im not either. I figured cartos were the membrane deals you filled up (slowly) that they had as testers at the vape stores. Ill have to look into this.
I havent really been vaping with the Russian- Im still waiting on the plastic isolators to arrive in the mail. I have a few questions for the Russian users out there: if you screw the chimney on the base (with the tank/drip tip off) and plug the air holes, is it pretty hard to suck any air (through the juice channels)? Mine- completely clean- is hard to suck air through even clean. Im thinking I might need to deepen the juice channels a bit with a needle file (preferably round) in order to make juice flow a little better. At this point, I dont think its my wicking, coil config/location, airholes in the base, seals, etc.. Everywhere ive looked sells everything BUT the base. Does anyone have a close up of the juice channel section- most of the stock photos suck and I dont know anyone who has a russian to compare mine to..[/SIZE]
I agree , i did charge both of my brand new MVP's to max capacity before first usage even though it was already charged well from the factory but then i settle into the charge to 4.1 and recharge at 3.7 routine .
Every month or two i let it charge till the green light goes out but i will not let it go to yellow or red .
Well it's all personal preference really , Keirster like vaping high wattage and likes RDA's , i don't , i have tried many setups and coils and different wicks and while it's fine i just don't agree that it's a superior vape , at least it isn't TO ME.
Your still having issues with that Russian , man i feel for you . Lets get one thing out of the way , if your a hardcore RDA guy and prefer multiple coils then your going to need a higher power device , there's really no getting around that .
I have vaped higher wattage (not 50 but in the 30's ) and it's a good vape , what i'm saying is , TO ME, i get just as satisfying a vape from much lower wattage devices and tanks.
It's all personal preference plain and simple. If i was only interested in vaping Kayfuns and Aerotanks ...the MVP would be my preferred device , it works great with the Kayfuns and i vape 28 or 30 gauge wrapped around a 1/16th drill bit , any thicker than a 1/16th mandrel with 28 gauge is pushing it with the MVP .
My wattage with the Kayfun was typically from 8.5- 9.5 with the MVP and it produced big time.
I havent really been vaping with the Russian- Im still waiting on the plastic isolators to arrive in the mail. I have a few questions for the Russian users out there: if you screw the chimney on the base (with the tank/drip tip off) and plug the air holes, is it pretty hard to suck any air (through the juice channels)? Mine- completely clean- is hard to suck air through even clean. Im thinking I might need to deepen the juice channels a bit with a needle file (preferably round) in order to make juice flow a little better. At this point, I dont think its my wicking, coil config/location, airholes in the base, seals, etc.. Everywhere ive looked sells everything BUT the base. Does anyone have a close up of the juice channel section- most of the stock photos suck and I dont know anyone who has a russian to compare mine to..I am confident ill figure it out eventually though
Anyways, exactly the range of wattage I use (I take my first few hits at 8 watts just to make sure the wick is completely soaked). I hear you on preference. I already know that if I were to get a more powerful mod, it would run the Russian and the MVP would run the Protank 2 (which has been a great combo). I guess you can only push so many watts through a given coil before you burn the juice (or wick I guess), so if im going to go with a more powerful mod, it will be to get fast heatup times with dual coil setups using 30 or 28 gauge wire. I wouldnt dare touch 28 on the MVP- just not fast enough on the heat up for my preference.
If I do go more powerful, I will not need more than 20 watts. An MVP 3 at 20 watts would be great![]()
This confirms that my ideas about modding the juice channels is prolly a good idea though Id have to be careful to make sure I didnt go too far. Also, one of the comments in that thread mentions feed performance is poor if the air hole on the center pin isnt lined up right. I distinctly remember the center post getting turned by me on accident the second time I put it together. I didnt think much of it; when I started having problems I looked at the setup, but because the air hole is in a cavity that allows airflow, I didnt think much of it. Ill try lining it up first, then ill consider modding the juice channels.This is from the fast-tech forum ...Not sure if ECF will let me link it. Great posts with pics of juice channels and how to widen the vertical and horizontal. Sub Par Build! Revised Modded and Fixed Pictures Included: FastTech Forums
This confirms that my ideas about modding the juice channels is prolly a good idea though Id have to be careful to make sure I didnt go too far. Also, one of the comments in that thread mentions feed performance is poor if the air hole on the center pin isnt lined up right. I distinctly remember the center post getting turned by me on accident the second time I put it together. I didnt think much of it; when I started having problems I looked at the setup, but because the air hole is in a cavity that allows airflow, I didnt think much of it. Ill try lining it up first, then ill consider modding the juice channels.
Thanks for that link! At least I should know it inside and out by the time I get it right![]()
I havent really been vaping with the Russian- Im still waiting on the plastic isolators to arrive in the mail. I have a few questions for the Russian users out there: if you screw the chimney on the base (with the tank/drip tip off) and plug the air holes, is it pretty hard to suck any air (through the juice channels)? Mine- completely clean- is hard to suck air through even clean. Im thinking I might need to deepen the juice channels a bit with a needle file (preferably round) in order to make juice flow a little better. At this point, I dont think its my wicking, coil config/location, airholes in the base, seals, etc.. Everywhere ive looked sells everything BUT the base. Does anyone have a close up of the juice channel section- most of the stock photos suck and I dont know anyone who has a russian to compare mine to..I am confident ill figure it out eventually though
Anyways, exactly the range of wattage I use (I take my first few hits at 8 watts just to make sure the wick is completely soaked). I hear you on preference. I already know that if I were to get a more powerful mod, it would run the Russian and the MVP would run the Protank 2 (which has been a great combo). I guess you can only push so many watts through a given coil before you burn the juice (or wick I guess), so if im going to go with a more powerful mod, it will be to get fast heatup times with dual coil setups using 30 or 28 gauge wire. I wouldnt dare touch 28 on the MVP- just not fast enough on the heat up for my preference.
If I do go more powerful, I will not need more than 20 watts. An MVP 3 at 20 watts would be great![]()
Yeah, thats the resistance range I run. I dont doubt the Kayfuns are great on the MVP- the one and only tank I had "right" vaped great. I really think it might be the air hole wasnt exactly right- as soon as I get the insulators I will try a coil and see. At the same time, the juice channels do not appear to be as deep as the drill press coming in from the sides. As hard as the air is to suck through the juice channels, and as open as I like the airflow, I cant imagine Id get great flow. I yield to everyone elses opinion since Im a Kayfun noob thoughWhy don't you show us a pic of your juice channels , i thought of deepening mine but wanted to make sure it was not my build that was causing lackluster performance .
Found out it was my build and didn't need to mess with it , what i am saying is you DO NOT need higher wattage on the Kayfuns for them to work well (especially with single coil builds) . Higher wattage is great for RDA's with multiple coils setups but unnecessary with Kayfun builds with single coil setups , especially with 30 gauge.
I am talking about resistances in the 1.5 - 1.8 range , the Kayfun performs great with the MVP in those ranges , i believe Keirster runs his on his MVP as do many others.
Yeah, thats the resistance range I run. I dont doubt the Kayfuns are great on the MVP-
the one and only tank I had "right" vaped great. I really think it might be the air hole wasnt exactly right- as soon as I get the insulators I will try a coil and see. At the same time, the juice channels do not appear to be as deep as the drill press coming in from the sides. As hard as the air is to suck through the juice channels, and as open as I like the airflow, I cant imagine Id get great flow. I yield to everyone elses opinion since Im a Kayfun noob though
Heres the best pic I could get, but its not great.
Yeah, I hear you.ahhh, thhose juice channels look plenty fine + you said you've had
it working good at some point...
messing with it might make it a "flooder" JMO
Yeah, thats the resistance range I run. I dont doubt the Kayfuns are great on the MVP- the one and only tank I had "right" vaped great. I really think it might be the air hole wasnt exactly right- as soon as I get the insulators I will try a coil and see. At the same time, the juice channels do not appear to be as deep as the drill press coming in from the sides. As hard as the air is to suck through the juice channels, and as open as I like the airflow, I cant imagine Id get great flow. I yield to everyone elses opinion since Im a Kayfun noob though
Heres the best pic I could get, but its not great.
![]()
Ok, good info guys. Ill drop the juice channel bit- its something Ive got wrong. Waiting for these insulators has me nuking things a bitThose channels are deeper than mine , thats not the issue . Did you open the airflow up all the way yet , remember i said thats what you should do first ? Forget about the sucking is too hard , open the air flow up , problem solved.
Trust me on this , thats your problem , i can see it's adjustable in the base , open it up , no wonder yours is barely producing vapor and flavor lol.
How do i know , because until i open up my air flow adjustment my Kayfun does not create vapor either. I tighten the airflow screw before filling but immediately after i open it all the up and the result is vape Heaven.
ahhh, thhose juice channels look plenty fine + you said you've had
it working good at some point...
messing with it might make it a "flooder" JMO
Ok, good info guys. Ill drop the juice channel bit- its something Ive got wrong. Waiting for these insulators has me nuking things a bit
Its not that the vapor production was bad.. at first. It was great actually. Then each hit it would get less until dry hits (except one tank as I said earlier). I run my airflow wide open so it wasnt that. Since its not my juice channels, my coils are solid, my wicking has been approved here, my orifices are all clear, it absolutely must be that the airhole in the center pin wasnt lined upI should get the insulators today or tomorrow, so ill make a build with everything lined up and let you all know how it goes.
Thanks for the advice and patience![]()
Oh sorry about that. I meant with the whole drip tip/tank assy not on it. In other words, just the base and chimney with me sucking on the top of the chimney. Basically I just spent some time looking it over and testing airflow (since I figured thats what it was).Oh ok , didn't realize you had it wide open , my apologies then. The barely any air getting through fooled me into thinking you still had it completely closed . If it starts out great and then dry hits it's usually a wicking issue but your saying somethings misaligned .
Please keep us updated when you get your new insulators , by the way where did you order your Kayfun parts from?
Oh sorry about that. I meant with the whole drip tip/tank assy not on it. In other words, just the base and chimney with me sucking on the top of the chimney. Basically I just spent some time looking it over and testing airflow (since I figured thats what it was).
I grabbed the parts from Kidney Puncher; it shipped the same day, but the post office is being the post office
Ill keep you guys updated...