iTaste MVP v2 Owners Group
- Thread starter KnurledNut
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My friend, to whom I had PIFed one of my extra MVPs, has figured out a foolproof way to kill an MVP. Use a coffee cup as a mod holder, then set the mod holder cup down beside a similar cup full of hot coffee ... then become distracted and drop the MVP in the wrong cup! Works a treat.
I bet if he opens it up and dries it and cleans it w/electronic cleaner, it'll come back
Hi everyone, I posted on this when I got my MVP2 a week or so ago. I got mini PT 2&3 one w/ 1.5 & other 2.0 & aspire ets 1.8 ohm all BDC. I know it's preference but ppl said start w/
[V] other [W]. If I use [W] It doesn't adjust my [V] like someone said. Just curious what some of u use & do u only am I only suppose to play w/ V or W? I seem to set V then go to W set & go back & forth. Usually 8-8.5 & 4-4.3... I over think everything, sure I am here. Just wondering what setting(s) u use or is preferred for you. Might not be for me but @ least I get an idea! I could leave it at 3.3 jack it up to 11 & it stays at 3.3... Is this normal? [not that I use this setting, just example..
Thanks all, hopefully my brain can rest from fidgeting w/ buttons & just vape lol...
[V] other [W]. If I use [W] It doesn't adjust my [V] like someone said. Just curious what some of u use & do u only am I only suppose to play w/ V or W? I seem to set V then go to W set & go back & forth. Usually 8-8.5 & 4-4.3... I over think everything, sure I am here. Just wondering what setting(s) u use or is preferred for you. Might not be for me but @ least I get an idea! I could leave it at 3.3 jack it up to 11 & it stays at 3.3... Is this normal? [not that I use this setting, just example..
Thanks all, hopefully my brain can rest from fidgeting w/ buttons & just vape lol...
if you use the voltage mode you will have to adjust settings everytime you change resistance (toppers)....now if you set it to wattage your voltage is automatically set to match your resistance in your toppers, more or less set it and forget it.... and go by taste to dial the wattage in to perfection and your set.......most use the wattage mode it's just to easy.....you cannot use both modes at the same time, it's one or the other
if you use the voltage mode you will have to adjust settings everytime you change resistance
Ahh, the resistance... Click, click, click! That's what someone meant when they said it changes haha! Makes complete sense now! Some juice is good at 3.8 or 4.7 & so on, hence changing volts. Got it now!! I usually have mine around 8-9.. Which is this okay? The volts will affect it more than anything once watts is set? Ty so much, makes sense!!!
Be it volts or watts you are just measuring power at different points.
Read up on Ohms law and check out
Ohmslawcalculator.com to see how they relate to each other when you start playing with numbers.
The theory behind wattage mode is that you can set for an atty with ohms set at X and should you switch attys ohms at Y they will perform the same because the MVP (or whatever VW mod) will adjust power (voltage specifically) to get the same watts regardless of what Ohms your atty is at.
The theory and application here do not always match. Generally speaking for most people using clearomizers on MVP the theory will more or less hold.
The main reason for this is clearos using stock heads do not have a very large range of impedance (ohms) ratings on the available stock replacement coil heads AND the fact that they all more or less use fairly small gauge resistance wire.
So for example using wattage set to 11w with a resistance set at 2.4ohms you need approx 5.1 volts to achieve this. Now if we switch to an atty 1.8ohms you only need approx 4.5 volts to hit 11w. All other factors being equal in a 2.4ohm atty and another set to 1.8ohm on a device set to 11w then YES they should perform very similarly, because the reality is we are only dealing with just a .6 voltage difference. which besides crossing the tipping (ie burning) point of your atty or juice IS NOT a huge difference in power or performance in reality.
Lets take a more extreme example and say we have a device that can hit 20w of regulation. With an atty set to .7ohms you only need to apply approx 3.7v to reach 20w. Now as with the previous example lets presume all factors being equal but we use a 1.3ohm atty (again, difference of .6 ohms like the previous 11w example) then in order to hit 20w we now need approx 5.1 volts. Now the discrepancy in applied voltage is 1.4v, which is going to have a much more noticeable effect on the quality of your vape. In all likelihood in this example the 1.3ohm atty at 20w will be a lot hotter than the .7ohm. Again presuming all things being equal save for the resistance of the attys this would largely be because of the way a certain wire gauge reacts to voltage but is really a different topic unto itself.
TLDR or conclusion
Variable wattage can offer an easy set it and forget it mode for devices that do not have a wide range of applied voltage NOR wide range of different resistances (in particular sub ohm attys) that can be fired such as a MVP 2.0 with stock clearomizers.
HOWEVER the variable wattage set it and forget it theory does not hold up with devices that offer a wider power range and can fire a wider range of attys, such as many of the 20 to 200w mods and all the different rebuildable attys out there.
So all in all with the more advanced powerful devices they may as well be variable voltage only because if you are using a wide variety of attys you will need to adjust the power.
(For some strange reason I am adding more to this because I decided it is not long enough)
what this really boils down to is the character and quality of your vape cant be simplified and attributed to just a single dimensional understanding of power. There are tons of variables and exceptions to consider, with personal preference being the primary factor, so do not be afraid to play with the voltage AND the wattage mode to find what works best for YOU.
Vape on brothers and sisters
Read up on Ohms law and check out
Ohmslawcalculator.com to see how they relate to each other when you start playing with numbers.
The theory behind wattage mode is that you can set for an atty with ohms set at X and should you switch attys ohms at Y they will perform the same because the MVP (or whatever VW mod) will adjust power (voltage specifically) to get the same watts regardless of what Ohms your atty is at.
The theory and application here do not always match. Generally speaking for most people using clearomizers on MVP the theory will more or less hold.
The main reason for this is clearos using stock heads do not have a very large range of impedance (ohms) ratings on the available stock replacement coil heads AND the fact that they all more or less use fairly small gauge resistance wire.
So for example using wattage set to 11w with a resistance set at 2.4ohms you need approx 5.1 volts to achieve this. Now if we switch to an atty 1.8ohms you only need approx 4.5 volts to hit 11w. All other factors being equal in a 2.4ohm atty and another set to 1.8ohm on a device set to 11w then YES they should perform very similarly, because the reality is we are only dealing with just a .6 voltage difference. which besides crossing the tipping (ie burning) point of your atty or juice IS NOT a huge difference in power or performance in reality.
Lets take a more extreme example and say we have a device that can hit 20w of regulation. With an atty set to .7ohms you only need to apply approx 3.7v to reach 20w. Now as with the previous example lets presume all factors being equal but we use a 1.3ohm atty (again, difference of .6 ohms like the previous 11w example) then in order to hit 20w we now need approx 5.1 volts. Now the discrepancy in applied voltage is 1.4v, which is going to have a much more noticeable effect on the quality of your vape. In all likelihood in this example the 1.3ohm atty at 20w will be a lot hotter than the .7ohm. Again presuming all things being equal save for the resistance of the attys this would largely be because of the way a certain wire gauge reacts to voltage but is really a different topic unto itself.
TLDR or conclusion
Variable wattage can offer an easy set it and forget it mode for devices that do not have a wide range of applied voltage NOR wide range of different resistances (in particular sub ohm attys) that can be fired such as a MVP 2.0 with stock clearomizers.
HOWEVER the variable wattage set it and forget it theory does not hold up with devices that offer a wider power range and can fire a wider range of attys, such as many of the 20 to 200w mods and all the different rebuildable attys out there.
So all in all with the more advanced powerful devices they may as well be variable voltage only because if you are using a wide variety of attys you will need to adjust the power.
(For some strange reason I am adding more to this because I decided it is not long enough)
what this really boils down to is the character and quality of your vape cant be simplified and attributed to just a single dimensional understanding of power. There are tons of variables and exceptions to consider, with personal preference being the primary factor, so do not be afraid to play with the voltage AND the wattage mode to find what works best for YOU.
Vape on brothers and sisters
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I got mine from a seller on ebay for $4.95 with free shipping. I'm new to this, so there may be cheaper sources elsewhere. The ebay seller is diplo707.
Where I can find some cheap skins for this mod? Got my mvp pretty scratched. Don't suggest uk/us sellers, as their shipping fees costs 4x more than acctual skin price.
Sent from my LG-E970 using Tapatalk
So if M VPN is set wattage and forget it, why can you also ad hustled voltage as well. Makes zero sense. I st my watts AND my voltage depending on my juice and my topper.
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Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
You are over thinking it
You cannot adjust and use BOTH V and W.. Its either one or the other. Which one is being used is determined by which one was last set.
I use toppers with 1.8 coils that sometimes show as 1.9 and have seen some coils change after a few hits. Setting watts allows the device to adjust if things change. I also have some in the 2.0-2.2 range and setting watts mean I wont forget to change the volts higher or lower and risk a permanent burnt taste. With my gennies at 1.5-1.7 I use volts as I know they can take the higher settings and I can change a wick and coil in 10 minutes if not.
Edit to add, I've pretty much stopped using clearos on my MVP and just use the gennies. The clearos go on my VV3 and twist.
Edit to add, I've pretty much stopped using clearos on my MVP and just use the gennies. The clearos go on my VV3 and twist.
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No....
You cannot set watts and volts at the same time. If you change the watt setting, then the MVP is in watt mode and will adjust the volts to suit. No, the volt setting does not change on your display, but believe me it is changing the volts. If you go in and change watts, then switch and change volt, your MVP is actually now in volt mode and overriding your watt setting. Which mode it is using is whatever mode you last changed.
if you use the voltage mode you will have to adjust settings everytime you change resistance
Ahh, the resistance... Click, click, click! That's what someone meant when they said it changes haha! Makes complete sense now! Some juice is good at 3.8 or 4.7 & so on, hence changing volts. Got it now!! I usually have mine around 8-9.. Which is this okay? The volts will affect it more than anything once watts is set? Ty so much, makes sense!!!
LOL... OK. You do not 'set watts and then adjust volts'. You use one or the other. If you went in and adjusted watts to 8, then switch over to volts and adjusted volts, you have just now switched it to voltage mode and whatever voltage you set it at is now what the MVP is using. It is not, now, adjusting watts anymore. Its just firing at whatever voltage you set it too.
Now, if you go in and change the wattage again, the MVP will now be in wattage mode and will attempt to keep firing at the wattage you set by varying the voltage. See? You cannot tell it to fire at, say 4v AND 8 watts. It cant. Its one or the other and the one actually being use is the one you last set (or looked at).
Think of it like this folks... manual transmission vs automatic. In an automatic (wattage mode), you select 'drive' (watts) and the car selects whatever gear (voltage) is best for the speed (power) you want. In a manual, you have to change gears (voltage) to keep the car going the speed (power) you want. You stay in first too long (lower voltage), and you won't go any faster (more power or watts) until select the next gear (higher volts).
Saying you selected wattage and then adjust volts is like saying you selected 'D' on your gear shift, but then moved it to 'Low'.. you have just now over ridden the 'automatic' part of your automatic transmission and are now actually in manual transmission mode.
Saying you selected wattage and then adjust volts is like saying you selected 'D' on your gear shift, but then moved it to 'Low'.. you have just now over ridden the 'automatic' part of your automatic transmission and are now actually in manual transmission mode.
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Well folks.. As some of you may know, my wife was having some medical problems and her doc sent her to the ER Thursday... During the CT scan, they found a Pancreatic Cyst. Well, today, we just got the news that her blood work shows 4 elevated cancer markers (19-9 very high)...
I dunno... thought I say something... I prolly wont be around much...
I dunno... thought I say something... I prolly wont be around much...
Best wishes for you and your wife. Hope everything works out.
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