Mark Bugs Bottom Feeding Rebuildable Atomizer (prototype) initial impressions

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bjannr

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When I use "ready made attys", my juice does turn slightly darker in the bottle because of the juice that leaks back down.
I guess it is normal for attys. It doesn't happen with cartos because no juice leaks back to the botle. So the juice turning a darker color is not the fault of the Chalice.
 

Keekers

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I'm currently using 33ga Kanthal, since I don't have any 34ga. It is actually 33ga Kanthal A, NOT A-1. It does really great. 6 wraps creates a 3ohm coil every single time. 5 wraps is always 2.6 ohms. 4 wraps is 2.2ohms. I am very happy with it, but I think I still want 34ga, so I can get 3ohms out of 5 wraps. In a Mark-T(and probably a Chalice) having more than 5 or 6 wraps gets to be a tight fit.

I am definitely a fan of using Kanthal A instead of A-1. Kanthal A has less aluminum in it.
Sorry to be redundant but is Nichrome the same thing as Kanthal A?

It's irrelevant whether they be pos or neg. just put tester probes on either side it will read the same either way. It's not testing voltage just resistance.

Darreelllllll!!! Hi!

I didn't read well enough so I posted the first time without thinking. Here goes round two:
How can I use my multimeter to tell how many ohms I have made?
 
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rondasherrill

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I'm keen to see how that works myself - I have read that the coils sit on the bottom of the chamber, so I assume there's a coating (anodization, maybe?) on that surface that makes it non-conductive.

I have a Mark-T atomizer, and I can explain how this works... The coil doesn't sit actually ON the bottom. When you have the coil screwed in place, kind of take your finger and nudge it down a bit. The idea is that the coil sits just above the bottom, so it is not touching, but is close. Surface tension causes liquid on the bottom to be like half a mm thick, so as long as the coil/wick is close, it sucks it right up.

Notice the narrow gap between the coil and the bottom:
IMG_0051.jpg
 

davelog

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Interesting. Looking back at Clyde's pics from the first post in this thread, the coils actually sit inside a channel in the floor of the atty:
101531d1337012340-mark-bugs-bottom-feeding-rebuildable-atomizer-prototype-initial-impressions-img_0206.jpg


There has to be some contact going on there if the whole kit and kaboodle is stuffed into a slot... unless the design has changed. Have to go back to Mark Bugs' site and look a little closer.
 

clyde2801

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Well, I wrap my kanthal around my ss mesh, dip it in vg, burn it off and repeat a couple of times to oxidize it. It's not the coil you have to worry about, it's the ss mesh wick.

Suggest try using some thick bulli first to get your coiling skills up to par and then try SS mesh.
 

rondasherrill

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So the coils need to be oxidized as well as the mesh? I was planning on starting with cotton wick.

Looking at the site, the channel's gone in the release design.

Yea if you look at the pics the base is pretty much like the Mark-T, except the revised post and the hole in the middle.
 

rondasherrill

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rondasherrill

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I never imagined there would be so many options.

Lots of options for wick, but for coil just remember this. If you cannot find Kanthal in the guage you want, Nichrome will do in a pinch. Kanthal is more resilient than traditional nichrome, and is less likely to "pop"(as in, when a traditional atomizer pops the coil and dies).
 
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