Older Folks and Vaping Front Porch - Part 5
- Thread starter MikeE3
- Start date
- th_trl_thread_readers 0
- Status
Thats all I use for the most part is the K5 and DNA's in TC. If you are using the Tobecco clones which are excellent I use a 6 wrap 3mm spaced SS 316L 26awg coil about .45 ohms and although I don't fly I would think you could do the same as I do if I'm going somewhere and shut the juice control all the way off then vape it 4 or 5 more times. They work real good when you open the JC about 1 1/4 turns. I hit TP also but thats just the DNA doing it's job if it really bothers you you can go into escribe and turn it off or set it to come on 1 time also when you first put the K5 together I use a drill bit that fits in the juice holes and make sure there is no metal in there to block the juice flow and I don't taper the ends of the wick, if there is not enough in there they will leak.Mike, glad to see that you're still around, hope that you and yours are well. I saw that you are using the kayfun 5 and I needed some advice... I was using a different atty but I fly a lot for work so I needed external juice control, when the kayfun came out I thought that was the answer, I ended up getting 3 of them but never got them to work right due to juice flow issues (I think my gf does use her one sometimes), I think it may be due to either the size of my coil or maybe the way the kayfun works by vacuum (all my other tanks have had the wicks sticking through the chamber into the tank)... I use everything in temp control ~400F, w/ SS 430 or sometimes 316L, 70/30 vgpg usually 3mm coils I guess. I'm just getting cotton taste all the time and always temp protect, & just generally feels like its not getting wet enough... I'd like to get it to work as it's the easiest atty I think I've built on.
For reference this is the tank I've been using. It's a Frankenstein of real and fake rose parts (I dropped it and skipped threads in a few places, so had to replace the chimney and tank, but it works). It vapes very well ofc, but the problem is this one's a pita to take apart and rewick/recoil, there's just no simple way to do it. it's like this outer shell that you have to take apart to even get to the build deck, plus you have to cut the leads perfectly etc. But it's the only newish atty I've had any success with. Besides a freinds taifun 3 that I borrowed for a while. But as you can see here on this one (or any atty I've used for that matter) I have to have the juice control all the way open.
Also when I do the wick I cut it long enough to make a gentle bend and reach the bottom of the juice cup. A little tip I got from Busardo that was having trouble with leaking by not using enough wick. I use 50/50 juice. Another thing to keep an eye on is the top 2 Orings on the coil head itself. One guy uses 11x1 on all of them even though it says 2 are 10x1. Also for me the MTL kit works good. I'm trying the middle size but I'm going to go to the small size. Still too much air for me makes my lungs hurt.
Also don't know what power setting you are using but I use a 1 sec preheat at 30w then 20w at 420F works well with the coil I am using and the MTL kit. Escribe is a great piece of software. Once you get the hang of it it's a piece of cake. I don't know you so don't know your experience level which may be more then mine. Then all of this is a moot point.
The ones I have are all svoemesto, I got them when they were first available... I did check for metal inside the 4 holes but they are clean, and the best results I've gotten was cutting the wicks just short enough not to reach the bottom, otherwise one side gets dry or vice versa. Idk if I really need the mtl kits I mean it'd be nice if it was a little tighter of a draw but I'm used to it with the rose, I normally don't use AFC on these types of atties so I just leave them open enough that air hits the coil at maximum velocity, but if I can close it down some and still do that, I usually will.
All my mods use the same type of board, makes it easier for me, the escribe settings I'm using are 60w, 1sec, 5 preheat punch. I'm using a SS 430 TFR curve from steam engine that goes from -100F to 800F, in 50F increments inside my vaping range... I normally don't go above 400F though, whenever I tried dry firing cotton it starts to singe at 400F.
Happy New Year Everyone!
Kilba ... welcome to the porch. 2legs can (as he's done already) can give better advice on TC vaping. I tried it out and went back to kanthal builds. I like the KFV5s a lot. And for me they 'travel' well by air. I turn off the juice control flow and don't have a problem w/ them leaking during the flight.
I wrap 2.5mm coils, 7 wraps of 29g Kanthal for about 1.5Ωs. For wicking I use rayon. I thin the tails by 1/2 after pulling through the coil. I too cut them like 2legs, just long enough to touch the bottom of the deck w/ a slight curve/loop at the top where it comes out of the coil. I have no problem w/ juice flow with it 'opened' 1 1/2 turns using 50/50 juice.
Are you having flooding problems or too little juice getting to the wick?
Mike, glad to see that you're still around, hope that you and yours are well. I saw that you are using the kayfun 5 and I needed some advice... I was using a different atty but I fly a lot for work so I needed external juice control, when the kayfun came out I thought that was the answer, I ended up getting 3 of them but never got them to work right due to juice flow issues (I think my gf does use her one sometimes), I think it may be due to either the size of my coil or maybe the way the kayfun works by vacuum (all my other tanks have had the wicks sticking through the chamber into the tank)... I use everything in temp control ~400F, w/ SS 430 or sometimes 316L, 70/30 vgpg usually 3mm coils I guess. I'm just getting cotton taste all the time and always temp protect, & just generally feels like its not getting wet enough... I'd like to get it to work as it's the easiest atty I think I've built on.
For reference this is the tank I've been using. It's a Frankenstein of real and fake rose parts (I dropped it and skipped threads in a few places, so had to replace the chimney and tank, but it works). It vapes very well ofc, but the problem is this one's a pita to take apart and rewick/recoil, there's just no simple way to do it. it's like this outer shell that you have to take apart to even get to the build deck, plus you have to cut the leads perfectly etc. But it's the only newish atty I've had any success with. Besides a freinds taifun 3 that I borrowed for a while. But as you can see here on this one (or any atty I've used for that matter) I have to have the juice control all the way open.
Kilba ... welcome to the porch. 2legs can (as he's done already) can give better advice on TC vaping. I tried it out and went back to kanthal builds. I like the KFV5s a lot. And for me they 'travel' well by air. I turn off the juice control flow and don't have a problem w/ them leaking during the flight.
I wrap 2.5mm coils, 7 wraps of 29g Kanthal for about 1.5Ωs. For wicking I use rayon. I thin the tails by 1/2 after pulling through the coil. I too cut them like 2legs, just long enough to touch the bottom of the deck w/ a slight curve/loop at the top where it comes out of the coil. I have no problem w/ juice flow with it 'opened' 1 1/2 turns using 50/50 juice.
Are you having flooding problems or too little juice getting to the wick?
That looks like the Corgi I sit for! Those faces!Happy New Year everybody!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I317 using Tapatalk
And a Happy New Year to my fellow Porchers!
def. not enough juice, I just get cotton taste and temp protect. Though I haven't tried a smaller coil, I will try that (I was using 3mm)
I used nothing but SS mesh and genny's for years, so I'm probably too add for cotton in regular power mode, I end up burning the cotton every time... I don't have any rayon, but I mostly use kogendo pads or cotton bacon when I run out of pads.
Last edited:
Welcome to the Front Porch, Kiba.Mike, glad to see that you're still around, hope that you and yours are well. I saw that you are using the kayfun 5 and I needed some advice... I was using a different atty but I fly a lot for work so I needed external juice control, when the kayfun came out I thought that was the answer, I ended up getting 3 of them but never got them to work right due to juice flow issues (I think my gf does use her one sometimes), I think it may be due to either the size of my coil or maybe the way the kayfun works by vacuum (all my other tanks have had the wicks sticking through the chamber into the tank)... I use everything in temp control ~400F, w/ SS 430 or sometimes 316L, 70/30 vgpg usually 3mm coils I guess. I'm just getting cotton taste all the time and always temp protect, & just generally feels like its not getting wet enough... I'd like to get it to work as it's the easiest atty I think I've built on.
For reference this is the tank I've been using. It's a Frankenstein of real and fake rose parts (I dropped it and skipped threads in a few places, so had to replace the chimney and tank, but it works). It vapes very well ofc, but the problem is this one's a pita to take apart and rewick/recoil, there's just no simple way to do it. it's like this outer shell that you have to take apart to even get to the build deck, plus you have to cut the leads perfectly etc. But it's the only newish atty I've had any success with. Besides a freinds taifun 3 that I borrowed for a while. But as you can see here on this one (or any atty I've used for that matter) I have to have the juice control all the way open.
Yeah I have 1 authentic and 5 Tobeccos. With the authentic you really don't need to worry about stray metal. The Tobeccos's are nearly exact copies but I notice my authentic uses more juice, why I have no idea. One thing I like better about the Tobecco is the markings are in black making them easier to see. I do like the 200 board better then the 75 but one of the 75's is a dual battery and it works just as well. I too am using the SE curve for SS316L which works great. Using the utility to check how your atty is working with the 200's it is almost perfect the 75's waver a little but fine for me. The reason I use the power I do is when running the utility I noticed that once the coil is hot it was only using between 10-12w so I just toned it down to 20w and the 30w punch puts it to temp almost immediately. I have found out that if you get a little juice seeping out the bottom it is almost always one of the top 2 Orings on the coil head. I just got a bunch of them from the Oring store, cost about 1/10th of buying the svoe mesto ones. I have heard of wicking the way you are talking but I find these to be the easiest atty to wick there is. I also have several Kanger STM's which I like very much but they don't have quite the flavor of the KF's. I take it you are using the 200's? They did come out with a FW update for those which escribe will tell you about when you run it. Took a few of the quirks out but the latest escribe is great. I have a 133 also which works just as well as the 200 I guess because it is the same board. It took me a little while to get that one set up but a guy helped me out that had done all the testing on his and gave me all the numbers to plug in to the manufacturers setting and I used a battery curve from a German website for the LG HG2's Ecigar really didn't do anything as far as setup, the manufacturers settings were the stock ones that came with the board which were way off. I would like to maybe get one mor DNA that is the Therion 133 but they are pretty scarce and the price is more then I can get a Triade for which I also like a lot. Probably my favorite.
I've found authentics usually use higher quality (read: better conducting) metals allowing for better/faster current flow to the coils...hence the higher juice consumption. I could be wrong, but I too have noticed authentics use more juice vs clones (with identical builds in them on the same mod)
If you're using a 3mm coil are you trimming the tail's thickness at all, before cutting and putting them in place. Just wondering if there's too much cotton in the juice well.
- Status
Similar threads
