Older Folks and Vaping Front Porch - Part Three

Status
Not open for further replies.

FlamingoTutu

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Aug 5, 2013
11,129
1
57,499
In the Mountains
Yepper, it has feathers!!!

The last one had a lot of feathers but nearly the whole time it was up I thought it was a way cool caterpillar. :facepalm:


LOL, ten people on here waiting for Sloth to get out of class and get to his online lecture. Hope one of you guys has a stiff drink ready for him.

StiffDrink.jpg
 
Last edited:

MattB101

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 9, 2012
2,560
74,146
67
Deerfield Beach, FL
I don't know what to do I want to get a couple of tanks for NI200 builds and I made up my mind on the Lemo then I got to thinking and thought no the Kanger sub tank then this issue with the positive insulator in the rba section so now I'm thinking Lemo again HELP!!!!!!!

Quit over thinking it. Buy both. You'll use them or at least have some spares for the vapocolips.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
 

MattB101

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 9, 2012
2,560
74,146
67
Deerfield Beach, FL
Ok........so had to read that read that real slow several times.......... but...........basically the amount of heat supplied to the coil stays the same with VW?? But goes up/down with VV??

Yes when resistance changes. In other words with vw it should the vape should stay the same (in theory) when you change attys or coils.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
 

Debadoo

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 18, 2012
18,052
133,969
Texas, near Fort Hood
For us coil building newbies!!!

Ok, I know folks on videos make coil building look way easier than it actually is.......BUT....... I love how this guy does it! super simple. I'm definitely gonna try this no nonsense approach on my next one. At some point I definitely wanna get an atty where you can just stick the legs through the holes. Seems much easier than wrapping around the posts and trying to capture something I can't see. lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ByH7GcRt38&feature=youtu.be
 

MattB101

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Jul 9, 2012
2,560
74,146
67
Deerfield Beach, FL
Yeah......I still don't really get it either. Higher watts = higher volts. Cuz moving your watts up does move your volts up automatically. But cooler volts??? so it still stays safe to vape at higher watts/volts??? I think we're kicking the fellers brains into derp mode by our ignorance!! lol Papa sure has his work cut out for him tomorrow, or later tonite!! lol

Throw out the chart, it's way outta date and has been overcome by technology.

Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
 

Wolfenstark

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Sep 1, 2014
4,815
14,724
Perth , Australia
For us coil building newbies!!!

Ok, I know folks on videos make coil building look way easier than it actually is.......BUT....... I love how this guy does it! super simple. I'm definitely gonna try this no nonsense approach on my next one. At some point I definitely wanna get an atty where you can just stick the legs through the holes. Seems much easier than wrapping around the posts and trying to capture something I can't see. lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ByH7GcRt38&feature=youtu.be

For me Ive found it depends on the atty you have.
A dripper i have with holes you can put the wires through can either grab the wires good but seldom or crunch them and be no good.
The lemo has both options but for me going through the holes does require bending manipulating the wires which i find not as easy as wrapping around the screws.
 

Slots

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 20, 2012
2,793
15,747
Eastern Wa.
Eleaf Istick 50w Coming Soon (Also a 30W)

« on: January 03, 2015, 01:39:56 PM »
https://originvape.com/product/eleaf-istick-50w/

Eleaf Istick 50w Coming Soon $49.99

Features:

4400mAh
VW – 5W to 50W in real sense
VV – 2V ~ 10V
Lowest Resistance: 0.2 ohm
Spring Connection
83mm x 23mm x 45mm
ETA: Jan 25th
 

Slots

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Dec 20, 2012
2,793
15,747
Eastern Wa.
The lemo has both options but for me going through the holes does require bending manipulating the wires which i find not as easy as wrapping around the screws.
I just watched Phil's video on it, and I have to agree with him on both the "thumb's up" and the "thumb's down"
The one thing about it, is it holds 5ml, so I don't have to fiddle with it to often.
I have so many different flavors all going at the same time, ..that it takes me 3 days to empty a tank with just 2ml in it.:facepalm:
Thanks for the info Wolf ... like it or not I have 2 Lemo's, and 2 Lemo Drops coming my way on a slow boat from China.
I probably should of watched Phil's video first, but as usual, I put the cart before the horse !!
One thing about it ...Phil said it beat the Kayfun hands down, so I'm glad to hear that ...my Kayfun is in a drawer :unsure:
Glad you have one, now I know who I can go too :p
 

PapaSloth

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 16, 2014
1,634
10,080
Portland, OR, USA
I was curious when Iffy said that.....now you...... I was under the impression that VW basically just meant that it would choose which voltage to vape at, but why is it better exactly than vw? (If you can splain it without making my hurt, remember who you're talking to)! lol

I think Sloth has class tonight until 9pm. Don't quote me on that. Unless his students have done him in, he should be here later.

Yes, I had class until 9PM tonight :) Then, I had to eat dinner and relax for a while. You all have been busy bees in my absence!

Here's how I think about. Watts means power, and power means heat. Higher Watts -> more heat, lower Watts -> less heat. That total heat can be jammed down into a small really hot point, or spread out over a large warm area, but it's the same total heat. If you have a small, really hot point, that will burn the juice more easily. The same amount of heat spread over a larger area of juice will warm the juice rather than burning it. Somewhere between there, the juice is hot enough to vaporize without being so hot that it burns. That's the best temperature to vape at. You can see that different coils and different attys will focus the heat differently. A little tiny coil without much wick will be too hot at say 20W, while a really big coil or two might be perfect at 50W. It all depends on how well the heat is spread out over the wick, and how well the wick stays wet when the juice starts boiling off of it.

Then, there's airflow. The more air you move past the coil, the more heat is blown off the coil, and the cooler the coil stays. An atty with a tight draw and not much air flow will have a hotter coil, so will require a lower wattage. An atty with a lot of air flow can take higher wattage (and might require higher wattage to get warm enough to produce a decent amount of vapor).

So, now I hope you understand Watts and their relationship to temperature, and why different attys and vaping styles might require different wattages to produce just the right vapor. A VW mod has electronic circuitry that allows you to set a particular wattage, so that you can dial in exactly the right amount of heat for your particular build, atty, and juice. It will take some experimentation to find that perfect wattage.

Here's the tricky part - for a given coil with a given resistance, a particular voltage applied to the coil will always produce the same wattage. If you raise the voltage, the wattage goes up and if you lower the voltage, the wattage goes down. Basically, if you tell me the resistance of the coil, and the amount of wattage you want to produce, I can always tell you the exact voltage you need to make that happen. The opposite is true as well. If you tell me the resistance of the coil, and how many volts you are running through the coil, I can always tell you the exact wattage. So, for a particular atty with a particular coil, there is absolutely no difference between picking the voltage and picking the wattage. A fixed voltage will always produce a fixed wattage for that coil, and a fixed wattage will always require a fixed voltage for that coil. So, in that sense, there's really no difference between VV and VW. However, for most people, it's easier and more convenient to specify the wattage, because that's more directly related to the heat that's being produced. Also, a different coil will require a different voltage to produce the same wattage, and since most people usually vape around the same Watt range most of the time, you can set it and forget it with a VW device, but you have to change the voltage every time the coil or atty change with a VV device (remember, it's the Watts that produce heat, and most people want a certain amount of heat). Basically, a VW device automatically compensates for changes in resistance, while a VV device doesn't - you have to do that yourself, which is more work and difficulty for you. But, other than that additional work, the mod is doing pretty much the same thing for a VV device as a VW device, once the settings have been adjusted.
 

PapaSloth

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 16, 2014
1,634
10,080
Portland, OR, USA
By the way, what you really want is variable temperature like the DNA 40 (assuming it really works like it's supposed to, and from what people are saying, it seems like it does). That will automatically compensate for changes in the airflow, changes in the coil, changes in the wicking, etc. and produce just the right temperature at the juice.
 

Debadoo

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 18, 2012
18,052
133,969
Texas, near Fort Hood
Yes, I had class until 9PM tonight :) Then, I had to eat dinner and relax for a while. You all have been busy bees in my absence!

Damn you're good!!! :banana: Now I also understand why I vape at a much lower wattage than many folks.......I like a tighter draw with less air flow. More similar to a cig.

Now the last question (yeah right) do volts not produce heat? When using a vv, I'm guessing there are watts in there too we just aren't seeing them on the screen.
 

PapaSloth

Ultra Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 16, 2014
1,634
10,080
Portland, OR, USA
Damn you're good!!! :banana: Now I also understand why I vape at a much lower wattage than many folks.......I like a tighter draw with less air flow. More similar to a cig.

Now the last question (yeah right) do volts not produce heat? When using a vv, I'm guessing there are watts in there too we just aren't seeing them on the screen.

A battery produces 4.2V even though it's not connected to anything. Until you actually attach wires to it, that 4.2V is there, but it's not flowing (there's no current). It's only when you have both voltage AND current together that you get wattage, and heat.

For example, take a VV mod, set it to 4 volts, remove the atty so that there's no circuit, and press the fire button. Ignore the fact that it will probably report an error and not fire. It would still produce 4 volts, but at 0 amps, so 0 watts. On the other hand, take a VV mod, set it at 4 volts, and attach an atty with a 2 ohm coil. The mod will produce the same 4 volts, but now there will be 2 amps of current, for a total of 8 watts.
 

Debadoo

ECF Guru
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
May 18, 2012
18,052
133,969
Texas, near Fort Hood
you are the first person that has explained watts, volts and amps to where I understood it. You da man! I always see v/r=a-Q or something ridiculous and my eyes glaze over. cuz I didn't know what all those things were, or how they applied to vaping. I know what a battery is... I always thought volts was what made the heat, cuz we'd set how many volts we wanted to fire a particular ohm. What do you teach? I don't care....I wanna go to your classes! lol
 

3mg Meniere

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Mar 24, 2013
6,493
65,098
75
Tomah Wisconsin
I still have a headache.

I placed an order with FT a few days ago, but my russian bit the dust. The coil went sub-ohm, and I replaced it with two other coils, both of which were sub-ohm, although they were made for 1.8. Then it gave me 0.0 readings. My Orchids still work fine, so it wasn't a problem with la Vamitresse. So I cancelled the order (it was waiting for a coil-maker) and remade it for an Orchid with drip-tip. I just couldn't see having only five devices. So, if anyone wants five of the wide-bore fat transparent drip-tips that those Orchids come with, just ask.

I much prefer post-holes over wrapping wires around screws.

I am going to trim my budget to about $10 a month this year.
 
Last edited:

Ken_A

Vaping Master
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Jan 13, 2013
4,876
28,345
Florida
you are the first person that has explained watts, volts and amps to where I understood it. You da man! I always see v/r=a-Q or something ridiculous and my eyes glaze over. cuz I didn't know what all those things were, or how they applied to vaping. I know what a battery is... I always thought volts was what made the heat, cuz we'd set how many volts we wanted to fire a particular ohm. What do you teach? I don't care....I wanna go to your classes! lol

This was published on Dec 1, 2013 and will explain the difference
between
V-voltage
and
V-Wattage

 

MikeE3

Vaping Master
Supporting Member
ECF Veteran
Verified Member
Aug 23, 2011
8,636
114,599
Downingtown, PA
Wow, you just basically told my story , congrats my friend vape on and prosper

Whoa! What I miss? What story? Welcome to the porch quinn.

I don't know what to do I want to get a couple of tanks for NI200 builds and I made up my mind on the Lemo then I got to thinking and thought no the Kanger sub tank then this issue with the positive insulator in the RBA section so now I'm thinking Lemo again HELP!!!!!!!

Maybe the sub-tank and Lemo are trying to tell you just stay w/ the NI head for you Nauty.


I just watched Phil's video on it, and I have to agree with him on both the "thumb's up" and the "thumb's down"
The one thing about it, is it holds 5ml, so I don't have to fiddle with it to often.
I have so many different flavors all going at the same time, ..that it takes me 3 days to empty a tank with just 2ml in it.:facepalm:
Thanks for the info Wolf ... like it or not I have 2 Lemo's, and 2 Lemo Drops coming my way on a slow boat from China.
I probably should of watched Phil's video first, but as usual, I put the cart before the horse !!
One thing about it ...Phil said it beat the Kayfun hands down, so I'm glad to hear that ...my Kayfun is in a drawer :unsure:
Glad you have one, now I know who I can go too :p

For us Psuardo challenged folks - can you spare me his video and tell me what he didn't like about the Lemo? One of the 'negatives' I've heard about it, is it has a 'short/shallow' 510 connection and has problems making contact on some mods. People have taken out the 510 pin and put o-rings or delrin spacers on it to make it protude a bit more to get connection to their mod.

I still have a headache.

I placed an order with FT a few days ago, but my russian bit the dust. The coil went sub-ohm, and I replaced it with two other coils, both of which were sub-ohm, although they were made for 1.8. Then it gave me 0.0 readings. My Orchids still work fine, so it wasn't a problem with la Vamitresse. So I cancelled the order (it was waiting for a coil-maker) and remade it for an Orchid with drip-tip. I just couldn't see having only five devices. So, if anyone wants five of the wide-bore fat transparent drip-tips that those Orchids come with, just ask.

I much prefer post-holes over wrapping wires around screws.

I am going to trim my budget to about $10 a month this year.

Yikes! Not good about the Russian, I have been using 4 of 'em for months and months w/o that kind of issue. Have you looked to make sure the insulator under the positive block and the insulator inside for the positive screw/pin aren't cracked of damaged. Sounds like it has a 'short' someplace.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Users who are viewing this thread