Yeah-- it probably does have a short someplace. I'll just toss it, once I get up the nerve. I liked that thing, even though it was top-heavy. Remember, it was a FT clone.
Older Folks and Vaping Front Porch - Part Three
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Definitely agree with Mike on checking the insulators. There are several dealers selling rebuild kits for both the Russian and the Kayfuns. After about a years use I would recommend it. Heck, I think even FT has rebuild kits. I got mine from Fat Daddy Vapes. Really like his service and he carries all kinds of stuff you can't get anywhere else. His 510 connectors for building mods are great.
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Don't toss it, if you like it rebuild it, who cares where you got it. It has obviously been working good for you. The rebuild kits I was talking about come with insulators, all the screws and o-rings. I didn't use everything last time I fixed one of my Kayfuns so now I have extra o-rings and screws. I think FT has the insulators in five packs. We should measure the dimensions of all the o-rings so we can order a bunch. Fastech sells o-rings by size in 50 packs really cheap. We could just by a pack of 100 and spread em around to all the Kayfun users here. By the way, for info, most of the parts such as o-rings and insulators are the same between the Russian 91 and the Kayfun Lite.
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Yes, I had class until 9PM tonightThen, I had to eat dinner and relax for a while. You all have been busy bees in my absence!
Here's how I think about. Watts means power, and power means heat. Higher Watts -> more heat, lower Watts -> less heat. That total heat can be jammed down into a small really hot point, or spread out over a large warm area, but it's the same total heat. If you have a small, really hot point, that will burn the juice more easily. The same amount of heat spread over a larger area of juice will warm the juice rather than burning it. Somewhere between there, the juice is hot enough to vaporize without being so hot that it burns. That's the best temperature to vape at. You can see that different coils and different attys will focus the heat differently. A little tiny coil without much wick will be too hot at say 20W, while a really big coil or two might be perfect at 50W. It all depends on how well the heat is spread out over the wick, and how well the wick stays wet when the juice starts boiling off of it.
Then, there's airflow. The more air you move past the coil, the more heat is blown off the coil, and the cooler the coil stays. An atty with a tight draw and not much air flow will have a hotter coil, so will require a lower wattage. An atty with a lot of air flow can take higher wattage (and might require higher wattage to get warm enough to produce a decent amount of vapor).
Here's the tricky part - for a given coil with a given resistance, a particular voltage applied to the coil will always produce the same wattage. If you raise the voltage, the wattage goes up and if you lower the voltage, the wattage goes down. Basically, if you tell me the resistance of the coil, and the amount of wattage you want to produce, I can always tell you the exact voltage you need to make that happen. The opposite is true as well. If you tell me the resistance of the coil, and how many volts you are running through the coil, I can always tell you the exact wattage. So, for a particular atty with a particular coil, there is absolutely no difference between picking the voltage and picking the wattage. A fixed voltage will always produce a fixed wattage for that coil, and a fixed wattage will always require a fixed voltage for that coil. So, in that sense, there's really no difference between VV and VW. However, for most people, it's easier and more convenient to specify the wattage, because that's more directly related to the heat that's being produced. Also, a different coil will require a different voltage to produce the same wattage, and since most people usually vape around the same Watt range most of the time, you can set it and forget it with a VW device, but you have to change the voltage every time the coil or atty change with a VV device (remember, it's the Watts that produce heat, and most people want a certain amount of heat). Basically, a VW device automatically compensates for changes in resistance, while a VV device doesn't - you have to do that yourself, which is more work and difficulty for you. But, other than that additional work, the mod is doing pretty much the same thing for a VV device as a VW device, once the settings have been adjusted.
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. Lovin' this! Thanks!
I see he has a post and insulator for five dollars, as well as the entire rebuild kit for $9. However, with shipping included that is about the same cost as one of the Orchids I buy. I definitely won't toss it. Probably I can buy a new insulator and post sometime in the next few months and then have something in reserve. Thanks.
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Fastech has them. Just add em in on your next order. Can't see ordering $2.00 worth of stuff but, I can definitely see adding some cheap parts to my next order. I've been doing that with replacement tanks and such, just to have em in stock if I need em.
Sent with no malice and not a whole lot of forethought from my new Galaxy Tab 4. Thanks Santa!
I found them. However, I took it apart and both the post insulator and the 510 insulator appear to be fused to their respective metal parts. I mean, I vaped that thing like it was my only source of O2.
Lightning Vapes has complete rebuild kits for KF and several others really cheap. The rebuild kit for the KF includes all the Orings and insulators.
I still think the problem with the Kanger is the juice the guy is vaping but I am going to pull my NI200 buuild out today and put a KF build in it and vape a tank full and see if any problems develop. I really think if there was a problem someone would get a replacement out, they are easy to change.
I have trouble keeping up with this thread and just saw talk about rebuilding Kayfuns. Has some problem developed that is requiring this of late? I'm curious if it's from higher wattage vaping or long term use or what??? TIA
No I think it is just something you can do because those parts can wear down after a year or two of constant vaping. Just puts them back to new condition for a few bucks. I know I go through about a tank a day on 3 KFL's. Sort of preventative maintenance I think the rest of the device will last for ever. Like changing your timing belt or other belts in a car.
Thanks, legs..... makes sense to me now. PM is good. You just reminded me that I need to change the oil in the car..... thanks......
I got the newsletter yesterday from EVCigarettes.com (I think it was theirs) that said they are getting the new Kanger sub. It said that Kanger is going to use a different material for that insulator in the future, so you might hold off on buying one for now. Apparently the issue is real & they are making changes to fix it.
I don't understand that a company like Kangertech would put something so small that is substandard. This isn't their first atty. Makes no sense. What could the cost of that part be in Peek or Delrin? I just don't get it.
Well I talked to Busardo and they are sending him new ones made from Peek. He is trying to find out what they are going to do for the rest of us. I also called MFS and this is the first they have heard of it and are going to find out.
See that's why we let legs do the leg work and get all the new stuff first. Then he can tell us about any issues before spending our own money.
Still no word on us peons. I still want another. I really like it. I suppose they will put them out for sale.
There's plenty of stuff out there for sale. What are you rambling 'bout?
This one is a geep - his father was a goat and his mother was a sheep. I didn't even know that was possible, until I read about him. Apparently, it's very rare but it does happen every couple of years.
Aww, so cute. Just try buying one of those! And, to be on topic, I don't think they vape particularly well. Terrible air flow.
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