Rayon Wick - Better Flow, Flavor, Longevity, and Nic Hit!! - Pt.2

[Kingboomer]

LOL you guys are making me laugh like a little kid...

we got double insertion, we're filling in slots, and wetting our wicks...

we're using tampons, big balls of rayon, hell @slavkov 's balls have been all over Europe!

...and some of still feel like a teen virgin buying rubbers when going in to Sally's to get the big box of beauty coil!


-Kingboomer

 

[JeremyR]

I was mentioned in the op woohooo! !!

Double insertion for the win. [emoji14].

Hi guys!!

Great first post Jeremy!

Good to see you aal_ !

Yes you've been a friend since the original trials with Rayon in the vcore thread !

So I made sure to include you and your method in the op... plus it works.

Oh also.. Found out my dad is 20% Greek from a dna test on that family tree site..(he was adopted) So I got some Greek in me, and a lot of Italian from my mom's side which I knew.

 

[TrollDragon]

Question about tails...

On the KS RTA (Taifun Deck) the wick just goes to the edge of the well and not outside of it. When using KGD you bend it on the inside of the well at the juice slot creating a shoulder. The rest of the wick going down the inside wall as support.

With Rayon how would you wick this and still trim the tails? If the wick fell away from the juice slot it would flood out the bottom.

 

[JeremyR]

I'm looking into that atty right now, havent found good build pics yet... But have seen it before not a bad setup it looks... Plus I've missed juice control of the oddy days.

I'd wick it the same way I do everything. Cut the wick just like I do on the flash right at the edge of the slots but leaving a little gap and a thin tail going to the deck.

OR cut the wick so it sits just in the channel like a tf gs but barely on the ledge.. while seperating the thin tail and diverting it to go down to the well.

Actually if its done like a gs you may not even need but a few little strands going down to catch any little excess, kind of bypassing the well other than floods.

Or just a full wick up to & touching the channels left fluffy may just take everything she can feed. Probably wouldn't flood with rayon.

Remember I always recommend full tail to the edge of the well. Thin the remainder if it bends.

One of the those should work. Whatever size tail you find it needs just cut it before you bend it down and leave the rest full. You could always try full wick like they do with cotton.. Probably just prove again that thinning is better but you never know I guess.

Let me know if its better than cotton...

 

[JeremyR]

Question about tails...

On the KS RTA (Taifun Deck) the wick just goes to the edge of the well and not outside of it. When using KGD you bend it on the inside of the well at the juice slot creating a shoulder. The rest of the wick going down the inside wall as support.

With Rayon how would you wick this and still trim the tails? If the wick fell away from the juice slot it would flood out the bottom.
View attachment 499048

The more I look at it the more it is like an oddy. In that case don't worry it's not going to flood. Plus you have juice control. Leave about as much tail as I do and lay it in the well.

Rayon prevents flooding when it was a problem with cotton, plus it stays put.

Don't fear wicking a new atty with only cotton examples available. Know the properties of rayon and apply it to the atty with confidence.

 

[Kingboomer]

Question about tails...

On the KS RTA (Taifun Deck) the wick just goes to the edge of the well and not outside of it. When using KGD you bend it on the inside of the well at the juice slot creating a shoulder. The rest of the wick going down the inside wall as support.

With Rayon how would you wick this and still trim the tails? If the wick fell away from the juice slot it would flood out the bottom.
View attachment 499048

I'm wondering if you could do a modified pancake wick on that, leave about 2 mm or so hanging outside then push/fluff it back to the inside? I've started doing this with my BVC rebuilds and haven't flooded or dry hit it yet. (come to think of it, I might of gone 30+ ml in my f'ing nautilus since I changed the coil...)


-Kingboomer

 

[MikeE3]

Question about tails...

On the KS RTA (Taifun Deck) the wick just goes to the edge of the well and not outside of it. When using KGD you bend it on the inside of the well at the juice slot creating a shoulder. The rest of the wick going down the inside wall as support.

With Rayon how would you wick this and still trim the tails? If the wick fell away from the juice slot it would flood out the bottom.
View attachment 499048

I'm wondering if you could do a modified pancake wick on that, leave about 2 mm or so hanging outside then push/fluff it back to the inside? I've started doing this with my BVC rebuilds and haven't flooded or dry hit it yet. (come to think of it, I might of gone 30+ ml in my f'ing nautilus since I changed the coil...)


-Kingboomer

On Taifuns, I just let the tails protruding from the coil lay in the cut-outs of the collar. No trimming. Then I cut the wick extending from the cut-outs, leave a couple-few mm's outside the cut-outs. Put the top of the chamber on and fluff the wick around the opening. Been working well for me doing it like this. No dry hits, no flooding.

 

[Exchaner]

While you guys are going more advanced with the latest mods, TC, newest tanks and different coil materials, I am going backwards. Took out some old Kanger tanks that I had abandoned due to a lack of vapor and throat hit - just to see how they would perform with Ryan. The difference amazing; perfect throat hit and plenty of vapor, even with this ancient setup. I have yet to decide on flavor since I only did it with unflavored. To each his own, but since chasing clouds is not my thing, I might as well go back to my roots .... an old Ego Twist and an outdated tank ...

 

[tchavei]

Subscribed

Would talk more but I'm vaping on my rayon stuffed erlprinz

 

[TrollDragon]

Thanks for all the great suggestions @JeremyR , @Kingboomer and @MikeE3!

I am going to try Mike's Taifun suggestion of putting the Rayon in the U channels trimming the top 95% flush and bringing some strands from the bottom down the juice channels, Unlike the Taifun, the KS chimney screws right down over the whole section.


If anyone has not tried the Tobeco KS RTA, it is a great RTA with a small chamber and good flavor. Holds 7ml and is super easy to fill via the knurled top plug. It's not a cloud machine but has good airflow with the screw removed. Unfortunately it is NOT an RTA for gunky juice, due having to remove the tank (2 bottom screws) for maintenance. It is similar to removing a Rose deck before it's empty, by unscrewing the chimney/juice control and keeping it in the semi full tank.

You do need to adjust the set screws and lock the base once it is square on your mod, and mods with a flush top look best.

 

[TrollDragon]

I am going to try this on the Taifun GS II next time. Instead of wicking it like @petemoss did here which is the same way I do mine except I use mesh feeder's instead of the PTFE ones.

Sorry for borrowing your picture pete, I am not picking it apart, just trying to trim down on the tails.

There is a lot of wick down in the juice wells. I am planing to wick it similar to the FeV where the wick sits on top of the screws. This will remove the full tails down into the well and allow the feeder cap to sit with it's holes directly onto the wick. A small mesh straw, if needed will then sit directly on a supported wick instead of a free standing one that allows the tank to empty out the bottom if the wick pulls away from the feeder straw.

Sound feasible?

 

[Mad Scientist]

As a test, I wicked a billow V2 in basically the same manner as I would with cotton. Rayon density in the coil is until it is plenty snug but not overly tight (and it does squeak), tail length as short as possible and trimmed flush to the deck circumference, then "teased" down to just hit the deck with a tiny bit extending into the juice wells. Works great, no fuss. I did it this way mostly because the tails are so short when wicking this atty that thinning the tails is less than precise or repeatable -- it turns into a hack and slash that really messes up the ends.

Have run 10ml through, works great. Much happier with it than cotton.

Next test is wick of small cotton core covered with rayon in the hope that the expanding cotton in the core will keep the rayon in good contact with the coil even with less density in the rayon and the wick overall. I know some of you guys have already tried this; how did it work out?

 

[cigatron]

As a test, I wicked a billow V2 in basically the same manner as I would with cotton. Rayon density in the coil is until it is plenty snug but not overly tight (and it does squeak), tail length as short as possible and trimmed flush to the deck circumference, then "teased" down to just hit the deck with a tiny bit extending into the juice wells. Works great, no fuss. I did it this way mostly because the tails are so short when wicking this atty that thinning the tails is less than precise or repeatable -- it turns into a hack and slash that really messes up the ends.

Have run 10ml through, works great. Much happier with it than cotton.

Next test is wick of small cotton core covered with rayon in the hope that the expanding cotton in the core will keep the rayon in good contact with the coil even with less density in the rayon and the wick overall. I know some of you guys have already tried this; how did it work out?

How bout some pics madman?! Love to see how you're wicking your billow2 with rayon.

 

[Mad Scientist]

How bout some pics madman?! Love to see how you're wicking your billow2 with rayon.

Ok, here it is. Opened one of them up and this is exactly what it looks like literally right out of the tank. Coils are 26AWG Ti wrapped with 34AWG kanthal claptons, 2.5mm (but the claptons will go next recoiling -- too hot for me). Wicked as described in prior post. The discoloration is a combo of the juice I use plus a set of somewhat gunked claptons that have run through likely over 100ml. I've rinsed a prior set of rayon wicks with water and they return to pure white in this setup.

 

[awsum140]

Jeremy, I know I'm late getting on the FEV bandwagon, but I have been fooling with it as time permits. I've got it working nicely with single coil kanthal build but am wondering about a dual coil build with titanium for use on a TC mod. Any tips or tricks before I make a mess of things?

 

[JeremyR]

Its really a single coil atty. Single ti worked fine around .6 ohm.

I did one time make a dual, pretty time consuming and not really worth it for me. If you do it make the second coil sit down toward the air hole. So the air goes over the coils like this /... One coil on the side with air hole and one on top of the screws, the top one need to be sitting on the screw heads with the mandrel. You can mount them to each side and manage to get both legs tight then bend the one towards the top. Unless you drill the other side out ... A tip if it you need to feed more juice unscrew the tank a half turn or so and screw it back down. This pumps drips into the chamber. Many times I leave it loose a 1/4+ turn if its not feeding well. Usually from thickened vg.. Its 33° here right now..

 

[TrollDragon]

Here is the Taifun GS II with alternative FeV style Rayon wicking.

I feel there was always too much wick that hung down into the juice wells, which is one of the recommended ways to wick it with cotton in the manual. I decided to rotate the coil 90 degrees and build it like an FeV.

Standard Taifun coil mounting.

FeV style coil mounting.

Wicked with a nice piece of dm Viskose.

Upper chamber and feed cap installed, the Rayon is just a few mm below the holes so I will need a feeder tube and the supplied PTFE ones will work fine for now.

Random Rayon threads all cleaned off, the tank filled and tested for leaking.

Since the coil now sits higher than a standard Taifun build, the flavor is a little different. The good thing about the Taifun GS II is the upper chamber has airflow as well if you choose. Closing off the bottom airflow and opening the upper ones directly across from the coil gives an FeV VS type of vape.

I will see how well the PTFE tubes stay in place and might switch it back to small mesh feeders.

 

[JeremyR]

Ok, here it is. Opened one of them up and this is exactly what it looks like literally right out of the tank. Coils are 26AWG Ti wrapped with 34AWG kanthal claptons, 2.5mm (but the claptons will go next recoiling -- too hot for me). Wicked as described in prior post. The discoloration is a combo of the juice I use plus a set of somewhat gunked claptons that have run through likely over 100ml. I've rinsed a prior set of rayon wicks with water and they return to pure white in this setup.

View attachment 499201

Looks pretty good, but if you don't mind a critique... Just to make it even better..

The one side being dark is showing an issue. It looks to me like that side was touching the chamber wall and absorbing the condensation from the chimney, the other side wasnt and you see its clear..... Or, that side is a little thicker, which can be trimmed or slivers cut off the sides to make it the same size as the other.

If you resolved the issue that side of the wick would clear up and look like the other side in less than a day. Maybe an hour if vaping it hard. It will clear just like the wick clears when you wash it with water. A shot of base can also clear it if your juice is real dark to start with.

 

[awsum140]

I've gotten used to a pretty open air flow. All my Foggers, V4.1, V6 and Big Fogger, have been drilled out to 3mm through the deck and through the body. I'm thinking about a second air hole in the FEV since one 3mm hole just isn't enough for me. I'll have to see if I can end mill a flat then drill another hole opposite the existing one.

I'm not real happy with the vapor output with a single coil, either, which is why I was wondering about the dual coil setup. I think I'll keep fooling with it using kanthal and single coil for now before I try machining anything on it.

 

[JeremyR]

You can always try a parallel to get your dual on one Wick like I did with 32g. And a 3 mm coil for more room to get wraps on. When you set the coil on top of the screws you can set it off to the the air hole side of the screw heads a little, it may improve your flavor, Some like to go farther to the side.

Mines at 3mm right now too.